no start problem

I have a 98 4Runner. I am having a start up problem since 2 weeks ago. When I was starting it up, I just hear a clicking sound, the starter doesn't turn. all warning lights are up. battery is just 4 months old. some time i have to try 3~4 times. Once the starter up and running, the engine will be started within 2 seconds. it won't have any problem during the driving. unless i shutdown the car and restart again. I tried to press the starter reply firmly. the problem still occur but not all the time. can anyone have an idea for me?

Probably your starter solenoid contacts.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=166530

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/starter/

It is starter contact points it sounds like....visit my previous posted help topic on this subject "10 dollar *clicking* starter cure" at this link... http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic324609.htm

I just called my dealer. she said Toyota usually don't replace the contact but the whole starter has to be replaced. i am still waiting for the quote. i believe it will cost me a lot because she said 2 hours of the labour will be invoked. i wonder how come some "non-professional" user can replace the contact within an hour but the "pro-toyota tech" has to spend 2 hours?

It is starter contact points it sounds like....visit my previous posted help topic on this subject "10 dollar *clicking* starter cure" at this link... http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic324609.htm

Superman can pull your starter and replace the contacts in an hour, no one else that I know. I think the hour figure is for either a 4-cylinder Camry, or just to replace the contacts once the starter is out of your truck. Pulling the starter in your truck is a pain in the butt. Search this forum for help. We have talked about it within the last 6 months.

The dealer just replied to me. they are asking for $500 to replace it. is it a fair deal?


Superman can pull your starter and replace the contacts in an hour, no one else that I know. I think the hour figure is for either a 4-cylinder Camry, or just to replace the contacts once the starter is out of your truck. Pulling the starter in your truck is a pain in the butt. Search this forum for help. We have talked about it within the last 6 months.

NOPE, Not Fair! The dealer sells kits for both sides of the solenoid they are around $15 each. The starter is not that hard to remove with a couple of long 3/8" extensions and one small wire push on connector and the battery connector.
Remember to disconnect the battery first.
This is IF its the contacts, don't open them until your sure Toyota "stocks" these because there is such a demand for them.
Once the starter is out connect it up and see what happens.

The starter is not that hard to remove with a couple of long 3/8" extensions and one small wire push on connector and the battery connector.

Not according to this discussion:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=253687

The first link I provided above is a topic by a guy who also sells starter contacts. Get them there if you have any trouble.

Of course the dealer won't sell you just the contacts lol...they want to sell you a brand new 375.00 starter.You should be able to find a starter and alternator rebuild shop to purchase those contact points in a big city/town....most Toyota's like yours I can replace the contact points and start back up in about 1 1/2 hours...cept I am very experienced with such and do not take starter out to do it.
Easiest way is to disconnect pos battery cable,drop skid plate if 4X4 and then unbolt pos cable and pull off energizer(small) wire from starter,unbolt starter,unbolt or *split* idler arm so you can get stater out front,unbolt starter from engine....when you go to drop it down you will encounter some cables and lines...you will have to massage line carefully to side and squeeze starter out there and forward thru opening created by droping draglink out of way when idler arm was dropped or seperated.....next take starter with you to match up to new ones and replace them,reassm and bench test (jumper cables and a jumper wire or battery charger on quick start works great)to make sure it works before installing....

Or you could........just find a rebuild shop and offer them 40 bucks to install new contacts and give it a visual inspection and bench test....Best way to find a rebuild shop is in a large town and listed as starter/alternator rebuild shop or listed under automobile parts/used and rebuilt....


Here is an older post that tells how to replace the contact points if I remembered correctly... http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic324609.htm

grrrr...I missed part where you said you have a 98 and am assuming it is a 3.4L if a V6 by year and missed part where you might have said if a 4 or 6 cylinder or if a 2WD or 4WD model (you might want to include this info as well as if Auto or Std transmission...jesus christ lol)

Anyways look from under and from front to back of engine with skid plate removed and see if it looks like from the way I described might work and in mean time I will look under a friends 2000 2WD 3.4L V6 A/T model and see how tough it is.

grrrr...I missed part where you said you have a 98 and am assuming it is a 3.4L if a V6 by year and missed part where you might have said if a 4 or 6 cylinder or if a 2WD or 4WD model (you might want to include this info as well as if Auto or Std transmission...jesus christ lol)

Anyways look from under and from front to back of engine with skid plate removed and see if it looks like from the way I described might work and in mean time I will look under a friends 2000 2WD 3.4L V6 A/T model and see how tough it is.

i just came back from a gargage. they shown me where the starter is. it is located in a very tiny space. i wonder how can i take the starter out if i don't have anything to jack up the car? can i just work from the top of the car, or must be work under the car?

the gargage offer me $250 to replace the whole starter with a refurb. starter. it is so scary if i fix it by myself and turn out the car can't move anymore cause i am an IT guy, but not an Auto-pro.

i think i forgot to tell is my car is 98 4Runner - 4WD - V6 Limited. Thanks for everybodys' help!!!

See my link

Forgot to look at friends 2000 4runner today(sorry) after knocking down 2 does(deer) during last week of extended season and going over there and frying up a bunch of backstrap with redeye gravy mashed potatoes and bisquits and having to work too lol

Yes that one is a 3.4L V6 and not as easy on labor dept. to remove and install.....might call up a rebuild shop that offers the labor of removing and re-installing part and ask them just to replace contact points as everyone in this line of work knows the contact points are typically all that needs to be replaced for first 2-3 rebuilds on this type of starter....just say you will not ask for a warranty and just want it fixed this way...even with 2 hours labor it shouldn't cost over 150-175.00 and that reman will have nothing more done to it short of a new paint job than will have to be done to yours and at least you know the history on yours.....goodluck

P.S. Look at the link Brian was kind enough to post (ty Brian) as it should shed more light on the subject of doing the labor yourself.

last time the garage shown where the starter is. but i am not sure the exact location of the starter. can any one tell me which one is the starter?

Follow the positive battery cable and it will hit you in the head.

it'll be on the bell housing...

this is another good write up (I don't see this one yet : ) with a pic of what it looks like...

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter/

Good pictures.

passenger side under the exhuast manifold on a 96 tacoma, just replaced my neighbors...sucked...yours is probably the same....good luck

I just came back from dealer, they said i should order 2 pack of the "starter kit" and also i should get a plunger. according to the message in the forum, they didn't mention anything about the plunger. what is it for actually?

it's the part in the middle... you can see it here:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/starter/

did they look at your starter?
It shouldn't need replaced... but I guess if it's super cheap, it might be an ok idea (I doubt it's super cheap). I'd just clean it up like that article shows.

The "plunger" has a brass disk attached to it that actually makes the high current electrical contact.
When it engages and disengages there is a spark generated and that spark "eats" away at the disk and contacts if the disk is thick enough just smooth it out, but check for uniform thickness all the way around the disk.
.The contacts are not the same on each side so take note to the shape of the contacts so you get it right when reassembling.
Good luck

that's why when i was checking with the parts staff, they said they have two different parts number for the contacts. should i just buy one of each and replace both of them, or just order the 28226-72010, for the 12+, only. since i didn't open my starter yet, should i also buy the plunger anyway?

They are normally stocked by the dealer, (can you guess why?) so you should be able to return the one you don't need. HOWEVER, you are in there you have the starter out, why get cheap and have to pull the starter again in 9 months. Replace both contacts gives you a better shot at not hving to replace the plunger.

Yesterday i jacked up and removed the wheel, removed the heat shield. and match the real thing with the photos and they seems are not the same. same as another guy in this forum mention. toyota change the design almost every year. mine is 99 4runner with 3.4L V6 engine auto. the one from this forum is 1988 version. i also found another instruction for the replacement. it is closer then my truck's layout but not exactly the same. i am really doubted about the instruction. i will try to get under the truck and see how to remove it. can any one has the instruction and photos of the starter removal instruction for 99 4runner.

http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/haveblue_starter/haveblue.htm

Oh man HAVE FAITH in yourself! You'll be able to get it done.
Patience and tenacity will always be the victor!
Good Luck

i think i should take photos for my reference. and i should post the instruction i did to this forum for other who have the same question. i will work on the project this weekend. good luck to me!!! thank for everyone's help!

I Just Had The Same Problem With My 98 4runner 3.4l V6, For A While I Had To Turn The Key A Few Times To Start It, One Day It Wouldn't Start No Clicking Or Any Sound. I Had It Replaced At A Local Shop For $350.00

I just found a repairing manual "Chilton's Toyota Pick-Ups/Land Cruiser/4 Runner 1997-00 Repair Manual, ISBN: 156392417X" from the library. i placed a hold on it and will get it later this week. i think i should read it before deassemble my truck. did anyone read this book yet?

first of all, this book is not that useful. i prefer to follow the instruction from this forum.

i just tried to remove the starter from under my truck. i found those two bolts. they are quite easy to access. i can put the socket with 6" breaker bar on it. but i even used all of my power and still unable to remove those two bolts, even just turn one degree.

can any one tell me what kind (how long of the breaker bar and length of the extension) of the tools should i use, or should i use the flexible extension.

here is getting warmer this week and my truck seems start easier. but it will be getting worst once the temp drop again.

please help.

Spray some penetrating oil on the bolts and let it set for a couple of hours before you try again. I would buy a 1/2" drive breaker bar about 2 foot long (if it will fit where you need to work), 1/2" drive extensions of the appropriate length, along with an adapter for the socket if you need one.

You might need a little longer bar, BUT make sure your turning it the right way. Seriously, when your laying on your back and reaching up there it is easy to get back assword.
Watch your knuckles!

i just found a bottle of WD40, should i use it as the penetrating oil. also i just got a 12" breaker bar with flex head. i think 24" is too long and will not be able to move in that small area. i hope the flex head can help.

WD40 is not penetrating oil. Get real penetrating oil.

Which brand of the penetrating oil should i use? if anyone is ok just give me a brand name so that i can search it from the store. i checked the rack in Walmart and they don't have any in the auto dept.

Try PB BLASTER or CRC KNOCKER LOOSE auto supply places will have it or the nearest FASTENAL INDUSTRIAL Store will have it for a location near you go to www.fastenal.com

If you search on the internet for "penetrating oil" you will get thousands of hits and brands. Any serious hardware store or auto parts store will have them.

should i use this:

http://www.rona.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?nodeId=ALLDEPT&catalogId=10051&storeId=10001&langId=-1&selectItemId=38457&parent_category_rn=0&categoryId=11705&catentryList=&productId=38457

i did completely removed the bolts of the starter. the penetrating oil helps a lot. also 12" breaker bar with flex-head helps the work a lot. after i took two bolts out of the starter, i was unable to take the starter out of the car for rebuild, no matter how i twist the starter. i have found one end of the starter blocked by the engine, and another end blocked by the suspension. in order to remove it from car, i think either i have to remove the engine (no way) or remove the whole suspension support of the passanger side. i just spent 3 hours and put the starter back to it. any help?

mine slid right out the wheel well - you do have the wheel well (the mud guard part) out, right?

i have a 1991 4runner and it will run sometimes but wont start others any sugestions

except the bolts holds the starter, what else did you removed from your truck?

I'm assuming you are asking me? The wheel well is all I had to remove, to slide it out the side...

Hi Angella

Yes i am asking you. sorry i am not quite sure which is the wheel well. do you have any picture to show me.

also did you remove the front passanger side's wheel?

yeah, front passenger... there is so much room, we didn't even have to remove the tire. The back half of the wheel well is just a big plastic? piece - with a few bolts holding it in... lol, I can promise you getting those bolts out would have been easier (to line things up) if you had removed it : ) It'll help getting it back in at least : )