tranny oil change?

i just wanted to know anyones opinion on whether to change the oil on my 97 5.7 silverado. it has a pretty dark color to it, but i've been told by many that after they changed the oil the tranny begane to slip. any info will help.

I would, but just make sure it is flushed.
If you dont have it flushed, it aint worth it.
:2cents:

Flush it!

Yeah flush it!

Similar deal on our S10. Decided to risk it and changed filter and refilled with Valvoline Max Life ATF. Glad to see the pan was pretty clean, no material in the bottom. Trans works fine now and I assume it will be fine for many miles.

would definitely do a complete flush, not those cheap 3/4 drain and new pan filter+gasket deals a lot of shops do. if u do decide to change the fluid, see and watch for yourself that it is a COMPLETE flush. i hav friends that got the cheap version and it just did nasty damage to the tranny.

Do not do a flush!It is a big no no.My father knows a guy that owns his own transmission shop that cleans valve bodies and makes money that way because someone had their transmission flushed.The lines are above the filter and where does the dirt go?The dirt goes into the crevises of the valve bodies causing shifting problems.My father has one coming for a transmission replacement,transmission was flushed,causing a rattle and was 4 quarts low.It is now burned up and transmission is going to be replaced.The best thing to do is replace the trans fluid and filter.

Do not do a flush!It is a big no no.My father knows a guy that owns his own transmission shop that cleans valve bodies and makes money that way because someone had their transmission flushed.The lines are above the filter and where does the dirt go?The dirt goes into the crevises of the valve bodies causing shifting problems.My father has one coming for a transmission replacement,transmission was flushed,causing a rattle and was 4 quarts low.It is now burned up and transmission is going to be replaced.The best thing to do is replace the trans fluid and filter. :screwy:


a flush machine hooks up to the trans cooler lines. fluid coming out of the trans (dirty) is dumped and replaced by new fluild.dirt is not an issue.
gm torque converters have no drain, pulling the pan does not change very much fluid 5qt on a 4L60e it holds 11qt total. filter condition is obvious by the rate of the fluid exchange. another myth is : you will not over or under fill a trans with a flush machine you end up with exactly what you started with . if it was a qt low to start it will be a qt low when you finish regardless of the amount of fluid you run through it.gm trannies usally slip there azz off 2qts low and driving one in this condition means he did it to himself.

Yeah, flushing the right way is beneficial to longer transmission life.

Well here is my 2 cents on the deal.
People that tell you never to change it are full of crap.
So look at it this way if you do not change oil and filter it is going to go for sure.
What happens when you do not change your engine oil and filter?
Get the picture?
Most people just wait to late to change filter and fluid.
But late is better than never. Go for it.
Is your trans acting up or what made you think about servicing it?
How many miles are on it?
Has it ever beed serviced?
Any check engine lights blinking at you?
MT :grinno:

Never, ever flush a trans. There is no "safe" way to flush a trans unless you own the flush machine and control it yourself.

Flushing a trans has several pitfalls...

The most obviuos is that the last vehicle hooked up to that flushing machine probably was on it's last leg and was generating tons of debris. Most owners, when the trans starts to act up, rush to get a "flush" in the fervent hope that it will cure the problem. So....flush machines, by definition, see the worst of the worst. If the lines aren't cleaned, hooked up improperly, oil is reused or recycled, etc....then you are screwed as your trans gets the dose of debris from the last trans. No matter how good the intentions of the shop, one simple mistake and your trans gets the debris.

Flushing is supposed to negate the need for removing the pan, cleaning the debris and replacing the filter.....BS. There is considerable debris coating the inside of the trans pan with miles as anyone who has done this can attest. That is part of the maintenance, removing the pan, cleaning the screens and replacing the filter and cleaning the pan.

All that debris in the pan is laying around in areas where there is little oil flow by definition...it tends to settle in the areas where the oil is quiet and just lies there not hurting anything....until the "flush" stirs it up and circulates it thru the trans. What a concept....LOL

Reverse flush.....?????.....what logic makes anyone think that it is a good idea to reverse the oil flow path in a reverse flush and flush sediment and debris into areas that are normally protected by filters, etc...???? Stupid idea. Period. No other way to describe it.

"Transmission flush" machines are money makers for the shops and dealerships because they are quick and easy and they can actually charge more money for it under the guise of it being "better" for the trans....when it is really a detriment....suckers born every day......

Read the factory service manuals and point out the place where a transmission "flush" is recommended.

So what if all the oil cannot be removed. A "flush" doesn't remove it all either.


If you really really want to replace as much oil as possible in the trans, drain the pan, service it by removing/cleaning/changing the filter and reassemble. Refill the trans with fresh fluid. Disconnect one of the cooler lines at the radiator, put it into a bucket and start the engine. Let the trans oil pump purge the old oil into the bucket so that nothing is subjected to abnormal oil flow. Start pouring oil into the trans to keep it full while the idling engine/trans oil pump purges the fluid thru the system. Easy and quick and gets ALL the fluid out....and eliminates any risk of hooking up to a "flush machine".

Guys....FORGET THE IDEA OF FLUSHING YOUR TRANSMISSIONS. Normal trans maintenance is a good idea. Drop the bottom pan, change the filter and clean everything up and refill the trans with fresh fluid. Do the cooler line/bucket purge if you are really fastidious about changing all the fluid.....but....DO NOT hook your trans up to a flush machine.

Really now, would you get a blood transfusion from an unknown source that is reusing needles......about the same thing if you think about it. A flush will do absolutly nothing more than a good drain and refill will accomplish...and potentially a lot of harm. Do not take the risk. Just because some have had good experiences (or the lack of a bad experience) with a flush does NOT mean that they will always go good.

2 cents... ok, 4

Welcome to AF.
I see this is your first post.

A Quote from your post.
If you really really want to replace as much oil as possible in the trans, drain the pan, service it by removing/cleaning/changing the filter and reassemble. Refill the trans with fresh fluid. Disconnect one of the cooler lines at the radiator, put it into a bucket and start the engine. Let the trans oil pump purge the old oil into the bucket so that nothing is subjected to abnormal oil flow. Start pouring oil into the trans to keep it full while the idling engine/trans oil pump purges the fluid thru the system. Easy and quick and gets ALL the fluid out....and eliminates any risk of hooking up to a "flush machine".

If you do that ,that is a flush. May not be a machine flush but it is a flush.

You have some good ideas but there is times that a total fluid change/flush is needed.
Like a newer ford with the mercon fluid that has died as low as 25-35k.
Only way to fix it is a total flush or fluid change.
Flushing is not a bad deal on in most trans.
But sometimes the way it is done is much of the problem.
Not changing the filter and putting in additives or the wrong type of fluid.
Or setting the flush machine wrong.
Or people wait untill the trans is on last leg and think a flush will cure all aligments.
Always change the filter with a trans service and do it on a regular mileage basic,not ever 150-200k.
MT

I have 385,000 miles on my '90 Suburban (original owner) and just had my third 700R4 installed.

Got 225,000 on my last one from my trusted trans shop. They put in thinner multi-disc clutch packs on 2nd and 3rd, added a cooler same size as my Chevy's factory tow package engine oil cooler, etc. Serviced it once a year (30,000 miles), pan off, filter change, 6 qts fresh conventional ATF.

At about 100,000 miles it began to act like the OE trans when that one was failing. Disconnected one of the cooler lines and ran at idle 'til the line gasped that it was empty. Refilled with Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and got over 100,000 additional miles with like-new performance.

When this unit slow-motion grenaded at 225,000 trans miles, source of shrapnel was diagnosed as a bearing coming apart.

From my BMW Club tech resources, I learned this is a common problem. Conventional and synthetic ATF is designed to interface with clutches and valves; lubrication of bearings is secondary, a compromise at best.

BMW independent techs and mechanics recommended Red Line D4 ATF, a synthetic that is certified to meet GL-5 OIL lubrication specs. Dick Guldstrand, the guy who does the suspension work on my Corvette, confirmed that D4 is standard fill on automatic-equipped versions of the $150,000 new 427 small-block 'Vettes he builds.

So I fill my new trannys with D4 (about $9 a quart, 10% off on case of 12). I think an almost-complete fluid change as described above, less torque converter (not a flush) might be a good idea at the third or fourth 30,000-mile service.

My trans techs have switched back to thick single disc clutches, but with a new facing material. To firm up the shifts a bit, they installed a new Corvette servo. I'm shooting for 300,000 miles on my latest 700R4!

If you want to drive well into six-figure miles, forget the owners' manual recommendations. GM wants to have a low published maintenance cost and only needs the vehicle to get to the end of the warranty, or about 100,000 miles at most, so they can sell you a new one.

If you want LONG and TROUBLE-FREE truck life, it's a continuous learning curve. Read magazines and forums like this to get ideas on new products, modifications, "little tricks" etc. But DON'T jump into using a new idea right away. Cultivate relationships (spend some money) with top independent fleet mechanics, techs and race shops. When all three categories agree on something, it's probably a winner.

A few years ago we put a plow on the truck and that forced me to better maintain the transmission. One trick that works for us is to put in a drain plug in the pan and change out the fluid every time the oil is changed. This has been very effective. We have never had any transmission problems at all with 105,000 miles and plowing over 100 driveways a storm. I also installed a cooler and a transmission temperature gage to monitor it as best as possible.

HTH,
Bruce

new filter and flush it. please.

Regular pan drains / filter replacements and flushes have kept my 4L80E happy for 307,000 miles and still as smooth as can be.

Regular pan drains/filter replacements and flushes (at different intervals) have kept my 4L80E happy for over 307,000 miles and still as smooth as can be.

A few years ago we put a plow on the truck and that forced me to better maintain the transmission. One trick that works for us is to put in a drain plug in the pan and change out the fluid every time the oil is changed. This has been very effective. We have never had any transmission problems at all with 105,000 miles and plowing over 100 driveways a storm. I also installed a cooler and a transmission temperature gage to monitor it as best as possible.

HTH,
Bruce

I was just curious how you went about installing the trans temp sensor? Did you just drill a hole and weld in a bung for it?


Also, do any of you guys run a deep pan to hold a few extra quarts of atf?

:naughty:

I was just curious how you went about installing the trans temp sensor? Did you just drill a hole and weld in a bung for it?


Also, do any of you guys run a deep pan to hold a few extra quarts of atf?

:naughty:


No drilling was necessary. I used an inline sending unit (sensor). It goes in the transmission line close to the transmission and uses compression fittings with a spade connector for the electric signal to the gage. The only key is to make sure you install the sending unit on the line flowing to the radiator/tranny cooler. There are other types out there that let you drill and install the sending unit in the pan itself, but I liked this method better.

No drilling was necessary. I used an inline sending unit (sensor). It goes in the transmission line close to the transmission and uses compression fittings with a spade connector for the electric signal to the gage. The only key is to make sure you install the sending unit on the line flowing to the radiator/tranny cooler. There are other types out there that let you drill and install the sending unit in the pan itself, but I liked this method better.

Do you remember what kit you bought? This sounds like a pretty easy install and a good way to do it overall

:naughty:

[QUOTE=wonder squirrel]Do you remember what kit you bought? This sounds like a pretty easy install and a good way to do it overall

----------------------------------------------------
I used a kit from B&M the tranny builders. It also used the tee in the line which came in the box.
After looking at 3 gauges that NAPA got in, I decided the numbers were too compressed in the area of normal operating temp.
Then I remembered a speed shop so I went there and they showed me a kit from B&M.
I immediately bought it. The numbers are in the correct range, and the face is color coded for a quick glance. The kit even included a mounting bracket.
Bob B

Do you remember what kit you bought? This sounds like a pretty easy install and a good way to do it overall

:naughty:

Mine didn't come in a kit. It's just a VDO gage I installed on the pillar windshield column. I used a brass tee to install the sending unit in. The gage is not linear reading, it's logarithmic. I can't remember the price, but it was cheap to do. Under 50, I think.

Did you guys just cut into the steel tranny lines and use rubber hose for the T fittings? Or is there already just rubber lines running out to the cooler?

My 89' had steel lines, so I'm assuming they still use those today even (I'm too lazy to go outside and look right now)

:naughty: <- that smiley is funny :grinyes:

Did you guys just cut into the steel tranny lines and use rubber hose for the T fittings? Or is there already just rubber lines running out to the cooler?

My 89' had steel lines, so I'm assuming they still use those today even (I'm too lazy to go outside and look right now)

:naughty: <- that smiley is funny :grinyes:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
My 97 had steel lines.
BTW, NAPA showed me three gauges, one was VDO. But they all were too compressed at the temperature of interest and went wat too high so the face was hard to use. Maybe the one mentioned previously is better.
The B&M is very much better especially for a quick glance.
The B&M part number is 80212.
Bob B

definetly flush it but do the filter as well

pull pan, swap fluid and filter, do this every 30K unless you drive the truck hard or tow a lot, then do more often.

I've heard many bad things about flushing. Why risk it.

Had a 1991 Range Rover with 178,000 miles; I drained the Chrysler tranny every third oil change starting at about 100K. It cost $6 gallon of quality ATF. Cheap compared to replacement. Only 1/4 of the capacity comes out each time, So after 5 changes it's basically all new fluid. It ran smoooth... on shifts. Acutally improved over time.

It had a drain plug which made it a snap at oil change.

I have a 1997 Tahoe, drained pan/new filter ay 100K. Soccer mom, car light duty. Filter looked clean. If I was keeping it I would put in drain plug.

Dear wonder squirrel,

In regard to the deep trans pan inquiry, probably a waste of money. It will take longer for the fluid to reach operating temperature and cause additional expense when you service the trans. You ARE using at least Mobil 1 ATF ($5 qt.) and preferably Redline D4 ATF ($10 qt.), aren't you?

If you think your trans is overheating, install a good cooler on the front of the radiator. Your local trans expert can advise best size for your loaded vehicle weight and climate.

Dear wonder squirrel,

In regard to the deep trans pan inquiry, probably a waste of money. It will take longer for the fluid to reach operating temperature and cause additional expense when you service the trans. You ARE using at least Mobil 1 ATF ($5 qt.) and preferably Redline D4 ATF ($10 qt.), aren't you?

If you think your trans is overheating, install a good cooler on the front of the radiator. Your local trans expert can advise best size for your loaded vehicle weight and climate.


A person needs to stay with the transmission fluid that the manufacture calls for in his car/truck for it to have a long and happier life.
MT

Never flush it unless you want crap in your transmission. It's like a junkie using a dirty needle.

Change the filter clean the pan and refill with a quality fluid.

By all means, the ATF you use should meet the OEM specifications. Mobil 1 and Redline D4 meet all Ford and GM specs. Chrysler recently upgraded its own Mopar ATF to full synthetic.

change ,,yes

Change the fluid and filter.During a transmission flush,the dirt goes back into the valve body and the valves stick.The guy my father knows that has his own transmission shop loves getting the ones that are flushed.The customer complains the transmission does not shift right,a valve body cleaning is done and shifts fine after a valve body cleaning.I had to replace a transmission because it was flushed,was acting up.

Flush it!

Change the fluid and filter.During a transmission flush,the dirt goes back into the valve body and the valves stick.The guy my father knows that has his own transmission shop loves getting the ones that are flushed.The customer complains the transmission does not shift right,a valve body cleaning is done and shifts fine after a valve body cleaning.I had to replace a transmission because it was flushed,was acting up.

the "dirt" does not go back into the valve body. A flush machine is basically two big plastic bags inside a cylinder big enough for one of them to be full. One is filled with new ATF, and as the vehicle runs, the old fluid is pumped into the empty bag, forcing the new fluid back into the vehicle through the return line.

If you do the flush, make sure they use a cleaner before flushing. New ATF will disolve old deposits after driving for a while, which could definately cause problems. I have done flushes on vehicles with BLACK trans fluid (imagine diesel oil at 4,000 miles), that had no measurable flow when they came in. After the flush, they were flowing 2-6 GPM and the fluid was clean. The first one I did has been about a year ago, and still no problems.

Our supplier claims that the cleaner will disolve the contaminants in the filter, and changing it is not necessary. We have never had a problem, but will certainly replace the filter at the customer's request (an extra $70 is much cheaper than a new tranny, so why risk it?)

I agree - flush!

One problem that I have seen it that if the trany clutches are getting wear and there is a lot of stuff built up between the friction discs and steels when you service the trans it will start slipping because the new fluid will clean all of the contaminants from between the discs. You have a 50/50 chance of the trans being fine.

One problem that I have seen it that if the trany clutches are getting wear and there is a lot of stuff built up between the friction discs and steels when you service the trans it will start slipping because the new fluid will clean all of the contaminants from between the discs. You have a 50/50 chance of the trans being fine.

But if it's that far gone, how much longer would it last if you just leave it alone?

It depends on the severity of the slip, fluid condition and how you drive it. Anybody tried a friction modifier? Maybe that could replace the grit in between the clutches if your changing the fluid?

Is there a pan drain kit or a homemade fitting?

If you are doing a pan drop, you don't need a 'kit'. just a catch pan, a ratchet and a socket(I think it's a 13mm). If you have a drain plug, you can empty your pan that way too...if you don't have a drain plug, after dropping the pan, you might want to consider installing one, just so you can do easy partial drain and fills(when you drop the pan, it will remove around a gallon or so of fluid, which you refill using a funnel and the transmission dipstick)

yes flushing is good.. when i worked at an oil change shop we had a flush macheine that hooked up directly to the trans filter port. just drop the pan,remove the old filter hook up the hose start the pump then start the vehicle. shift throgh each gear for about 10 seconds then leave in nutral, it would pump abot 25 qts through the tranny and all the old fluid would drop right out the bottom of the exposed valve body. verry messy but very effective. all the innards of the trans had new fluid . so you just bolt up the pan and fill it + mabt a qt. or 2 and your done. unfortunatly it WAS a rip off we charged 89.95$ + tax. i did it to my own car for free though :evillol:

The last post on this thread was 2 1/2 months ago, generally one would not post after that much time passing.

That said, if you pump 25 qts through, $90 is pretty cheap. We charge almost $100 for a flush, that's for about 15 qts synthetic ATF, the flush chemicals, and labor.

haha, i didnt even notice the date on this thread! :screwy:

Here is what I do. Check level. Suck out as much as I can with vac. pump and measure it and put that amount back in. Drive for a day and do this 2 or 3 more times and then dump the pan and change the filter and clean the pan. This way you can replace most of the old fluid without flushing and the filter also gets changed. Best of both worlds. I also add some lucas after or some transX before.

The last post on this thread was 2 1/2 months ago, generally one would not post after that much time passing.

The reason behind that is the original poster who started the poll, never put an end date in it, so whenever someone votes in it no matter how long after, it gets resurrected and then other members see it again and join in, continuing it's presence. That is why it is a god idea to put a time limit on polls, whether it be 30,60,or 90 days (max) to prevent this from occurring.
Closed. ( But always remember, if the interest exists, you can always start a new poll/thread.)