1988 Ford Bronco,Start/Won't Start / Electrical

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12-18-2004, 07:18 PM
1988 Ford Bronco,Won't Start / Electrical (Post #1)
We are going crazy!
1988 Ford Bronco full size,Eddie Bauer Edition.5.0 liter motor.Great running motor when it starts with no other problems.
Will not start,cranks over,no spark.Couple of day's ago this happen.I put a new Cap,Rotor andTFI Module did not start with first few cranks.As I was checking for spark got zapped a couple times seemed fine then.Hook wires back up started right up.Drove for a couple of day's,ran great then died out on road.On shoulder of road in a few minutes started back up put in gear than died again.Towed home.Next morning try starting,just cranks over dose not firer at all.This is not a fuel problem.But I did at first use starting fluid to see if it was a fuel issue.Then check for spark.I have been doing some research.Other then TFI Moduel.I would like to know exact location of (CPS,Crankshaft position Sensor)I think it is by the Harmonic Balancer but I still can't see any wires or any thing that it maybe.From what I understand it is venerable to coolant that may be a leak from water pump,ect.Also location of PCM moduel.PLEASE! we need help to try to understand and find the problems we are having.


[COLOR=darkorange] I have a new Cap,Rotor,TFI Module and new coil.Still having same problem as descibe above.Coil wire when disconnect from distrubutor will have spark sometimes but looks to be weak.:confused: Please Help,Thank You

im having the same problem i wish i could help

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Is that the TFI Module you replaced? If not, you can check the voltage to the Unit by using a thin needle, and a voltmeter. (There are instructions in the Haynes manuals...)

The PCM is the big black box in your engine bay firewall. Under the Brake Booster, to the outside of the steering column. It has a big 60-pin Connector which bolts on with one 8mm-10mm nut. (You might have to press it out from the cabin? I have never replaced one.)

Have you not replaced the Ig Coil yet?

Having the exact same problem with a Bronco II. Some similar parts I'm guessing. Replaced fuel filter last week ran fine then wouldn't start this afternoon. Been doing this off and on for a month and a half. Tried a dozen solutions, but nothing seems to work. If you get any further on this stay in touch. Thanks, Orion

I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH MY BRONC RUNNING ALONG JUST FINE THEN WOULD QUIT WHILE DRIVING AND NOT START BUT WHEN IT WANTED TO. :cry AFTER READING OTHERS POSTS AND SEEING THEY HAD REPLACED FILTERS AND PUMPS TO NO AVAIL, :shrug I THOUGHT THE INERTIA SWITCH MIGHT BE DEFECTIVE. I FOUND THE INERTIA SWITCH ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR RIGHT UNDER THE DASH. IT WAS FRIED. I CUT THE SWITCH AND PLUG OUT AND TIED THE TWO WIRES TOGETHER. NOW SHE IS RUNNING JUST FINE! :rockon THE DOWN SIDE IS, DONT HAVE A WRECK! GAS WILL STILL BE PUMPING! GOT A NEW SWITCH AT THE FORD HOUSE BUT IT DOESNT LOOK LIKE THE OLD ONE. IT HAS A 3 HOLE PLUG AND MY OLD ONE ONLY HAD 2. ANYWAY U GUYS MIGHT TRY THIS IF U HAVE PROBLEMS WITH STALLING OUT AND NOT STARTING. :beer NOW I THINK I'LL GO HAVE ONE. CJY

REMEDY BRONCO II WONT START STALLS WHILE DRIVING:I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH MY BRONC RUNNING ALONG JUST FINE THEN WOULD QUIT WHILE DRIVING AND NOT START BUT WHEN IT WANTED TO. :cry AFTER READING OTHERS POSTS AND SEEING THEY HAD REPLACED FILTERS AND PUMPS TO NO AVAIL, :shrug I THOUGHT THE INERTIA SWITCH MIGHT BE DEFECTIVE. I FOUND THE INERTIA SWITCH ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR RIGHT UNDER THE DASH. IT WAS FRIED. I CUT THE SWITCH AND PLUG OUT AND TIED THE TWO WIRES TOGETHER. NOW SHE IS RUNNING JUST FINE! :rockon THE DOWN SIDE IS, DONT HAVE A WRECK! GAS WILL STILL BE PUMPING! GOT A NEW SWITCH AT THE FORD HOUSE BUT IT DOESNT LOOK LIKE THE OLD ONE. IT HAS A 3 HOLE PLUG AND MY OLD ONE ONLY HAD 2. ANYWAY U GUYS MIGHT TRY THIS IF U HAVE PROBLEMS WITH STALLING OUT AND NOT STARTING. :beer NOW I THINK I'LL GO HAVE ONE. CJY

REMEDY BRONCO II WONT START STALLS WHILE DRIVING:I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH MY BRONC RUNNING ALONG JUST FINE THEN WOULD QUIT WHILE DRIVING AND NOT START BUT WHEN IT WANTED TO. :cry AFTER READING OTHERS POSTS AND SEEING THEY HAD REPLACED FILTERS AND PUMPS TO NO AVAIL, :shrug I THOUGHT THE INERTIA SWITCH MIGHT BE DEFECTIVE. I FOUND THE INERTIA SWITCH ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR RIGHT UNDER THE DASH. IT WAS FRIED. I CUT THE SWITCH AND PLUG OUT AND TIED THE TWO WIRES TOGETHER. NOW SHE IS RUNNING JUST FINE! :rockon THE DOWN SIDE IS, DONT HAVE A WRECK! GAS WILL STILL BE PUMPING! GOT A NEW SWITCH AT THE FORD HOUSE BUT IT DOESNT LOOK LIKE THE OLD ONE. IT HAS A 3 HOLE PLUG AND MY OLD ONE ONLY HAD 2. ANYWAY U GUYS MIGHT TRY THIS IF U HAVE PROBLEMS WITH STALLING OUT AND NOT STARTING. :beer NOW I THINK I'LL GO HAVE ONE. CJY

I just got my bronco running after replacing the trans( big surprise) and I was driving, it just quit in the middle of the road. just like i shut it off. towed it, no spark, turns over, plugs dont seem to be wet either. is this a similar problem? Also i have been on the net for hours trying to find wiring diagram or elec ignition parts but only find books for sale. any ideas?

To you all with the 88 BII and the fuel problem. That probably was not your inernia switch. There is a black Voltage capacitor running from the neg battery cable. This capacitor in a negitive ploarity and it runs your fuel pump in the tank,. Check the ground connections and also pull the plug apart and look how it matches up. Dollar to a donut that is your problem. Had same problem just put new motor (Rebuilt) 2.9EFI and off and on have had that problem. You connect it to where it runs then get some duct tape and tape it good to where it will not move and you will be fine. Also Ford does not sell these anymore. Have to go to junkyard rangers have them too.

It could be the PRNDL switch or the gear selector switch, it is common of Fords. It may be cutting off the spark, it can not be an ignition module those dont intermittently work either they work fine or dont work at all, once they are out they stay out.,

I Have the same problem with my 86 Bronco II I was driving it and the engine just died I towed it and when I got it home I noticed there was a little black box(posibly some type of modulator) next to my starter solenoid and the wire leading off of it was running under my dash and lead to nothing it was just hanging there I pulled on it and the black box clicked and my car started right up then about 2 minutes later it died. If anyone has any Idea what could be wrong I would like to know. Or if anyone knows what that box is? that would be helpful also.

Those little black things next to your stater solenoid are relays... I had one go out on my 87 ford bronco II ... fuel relay and it would also run for about that long then die. Very frustrateing. I think the relay cost like $30+ back then and replacing it fixed the problem. Just in park and letting it run it would die... but the relay would get hot before it died and clicked a few times....
I am sure that you have fixed the problem by now... but I thought that I would add my two cents anyways.

I just got my bronco running after replacing the trans( big surprise) and I was driving, it just quit in the middle of the road. just like i shut it off. towed it, no spark, turns over, plugs dont seem to be wet either. is this a similar problem? Also i have been on the net for hours trying to find wiring diagram or elec ignition parts but only find books for sale. any ideas?
first there is ford recall on the ignition switch,car or truck be running and then stall for no reason will replace if you have less than 100,000 miles on vechicle ...second if stalling check your igniton lock switch on your sterring col. once you get the vechile running again try wigleing the ignition switch /theres to much play in it and it will shut the vechile off.//would seem like stalling was from fuel system / relay but it wasnt it was the ignition switch///check for ford recalls also..

the same thign happened to mine. i changedthe alternator about 3 times but that ended up not being the problem. i changed the starter solenoid and after that, it never did it again. another common problems with the 80s and 90s model broncos is the transfer case motor will go ouot sometimes.

I have a 85 bronco u have been working on. Changed the coil changed the switch and still had nothing so I changed out the brain box had spark and ran fine.

If you checked the cap and rotor. Use a 12 Volt test light with the key on Check the positive side of the coil for 12 volt power. If you have power place the test lead on the coil negative while someone is cranking the engine. If the test light blinks replace the module. If the test light doesn't blink replace the pickup in the distributor. Ask for loaner distributor puller. Otherwise get a junk yard or rebuilt starter. The puller is to pull the shaft out of the body. You can also check the computer ground wire kick panel. If no power to positive side of coil check EEC-IV relay maybe close to computer.