Replacing intake gasket...


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NickF829
12-19-2004, 06:27 PM
anyone have any tips on replacing the intake gasket? i can see where coolant has leaked out from underneath and come out the sides of the motor beneath the intake gasket.. probably a bad definition but yall probably know what i mean.. i know its a common 3100 motor problem, so im sure theres a nice writeup on it somewhere... anyone?

thanks

Nick

bearcatdon
12-20-2004, 08:33 PM
1) Take your time especially if this is the first time. A manual is also useful
2) Label wires as you remove them
3) Raise the engine and remove the RH motor mount to move the power steering pump out of the way.
4) When disconnecting the fuel line from the rail be very careful not to lose the green o-ring
5) Pull the intake manifold followed by removing the pushrods and rotating rocker arms
6) Stand the pushrods in a box the same way they came out. I use a screwdriver and punch 12 holes in an old box. Make sure you write on the box cyl. 1, front of car etc. It is extremely important that you do not mix them up.
7) Clean all gasket surfaces properly.
8) Use pipe dope on your intake bolts. I also added serviceable loctite.
9) Torque all bolts to the new GM specs. See below
10) Oil the fuel injector o-rings when reinstalling and make sure they are properly seated.
11) Change your plugs, wires, belt and thermostat now that you have full access to all these things.

I pulled this document from the forum a while backÖ..not sure who originally posted it.
Document ID# 1396678
2003 Chevrolet Malibu

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) #03-06-01-010B - (10/24/2003)
Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket)
2000-2003 Buick Century

2002-2003 Buick Rendezvous

1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV

1997-2003 Chevrolet Venture

1999-2001 Chevrolet Lumina

1999-2003 Chevrolet Malibu, Monte Carlo

2000-2003 Chevrolet Impala

1996-2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette

1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass

1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero

1996-1999 Pontiac Trans Sport

1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am, Montana

2000-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix

2001-2003 Pontiac Aztek

with 3.1L or 3.4L V-6 Engine (VINs J, E - RPOs LG8, LA1)

This bulletin is being revised to change the model Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-010A (Section 06 - Engine).

Condition
Some owners may comment on an apparent oil or coolant leak. Additionally, the comments may range from spots on the driveway to having to add fluids.

Cause
Intake manifold may be leaking allowing coolant, oil or both to leak from the engine.

Correction
Install a new design intake manifold gasket. The material used in the gasket has been changed in order to improve the sealing qualities of the gasket. When replacing the gasket, the intake manifold bolts must also be replaced and torqued to a revised specification. The new bolts will come with a pre-applied threadlocker on them.






Notice
An oil leak may result if the vertical bolts are not tightened before the diagonal bolts.


Diagonal bolts may require a crows foot to tighten.

Tighten
Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 7Nēm (62 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 7Nēm(62 lb in).
Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 13Nēm(115 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 25Nēm(18 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

89017279
Intake manifold Gasket
1

11588915
Intake manifold bolt - short
4

11588914
Intake manifold bolt - long
4


Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

J0259
Manifold or Gasket, Intake (Upper, Lower) - Replace Gasket Lower
Use Published Labor Time

rajjhauf
12-20-2004, 08:35 PM
Well........I just did that yesterday. It was not alot of fun, but I have more time than money. The gaskets were $50.00 and you have to know which vin code you have, J or M. It took me about 9 hours plus the oil change and a coolant flush.

chasM
10-31-2006, 01:18 PM
Just did this repair. Special thanks to NickXXX for starting this thread and Bearcatdon for all that good info!!! 1st I'd heard for the warning about the tightening sequence.
Note: My torque wrench took a dump so I did the job without it. I paid alot of attention getting all the bolts torqued the same. Much to my suprise I've had no problems whatsoever. I guess I've had enough troubles in the past. Somebody likes me.
If I had to do it over I would be smart and get a torque wrench though.

p.s. don't lose the fuel inlet O-ring. Chevy dealer charged me 8 bucks for it.

again thanks for the good info on the thread

cheers

ivis
10-31-2006, 01:36 PM
Just did this repair.
If I had to do it over I would be smart and get a torque wrench though.

p.s. don't l (http://auto-insuranceb.netfirms.com)ose the fuel inlet O-ring. Chevy dealer charged me 8 bucks for it.

again thanks for the good info on the thread

cheers +1 +1

chasM
11-08-2006, 02:26 PM
Note: My torque wrench took a dump so I did the job without it.


:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

After about two weeks I notice a small oil leak at the bottom of the lower intake. At that point I went straight out got a torque wrench and did the whole job over. I found I had under torqued most of the bolts.
I got my time dowjn to under 6 hours, but I hope I never have to do it again.
Next job that needs a torque wrench I will not fail to get one!!!!

ivis
11-09-2006, 01:24 AM
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

After about two weeks I notice a small oil leak at the bottom of the lower intake. At that point I went straight out got a torque wrench and did the whole job over. I found I had under torqued most of the bolts.
I got my time dowjn to under 6 hours, but I hope I never have to do it again.
Next job that needs a torque wrench I will not fail to get one!!!!
i'm understand you...

tczer34
11-27-2006, 07:01 AM
I am to the point in this job where i need to remove the lower intake. I cannot free up the fuel rails in order to do this. I did not want to mess with the connections towards the master cylinder, or remove the fuel rails/injectors so I loosened the connections towards the right side of the rails (looking at the front of the car) but i can't get the rear fuel rail connections loose? Anyone else have this problem??

Also, I saw that many people ref the new GM gaskets, I was planning on using the Felpro ones available from AutoZone and the bolts that I removed, a good idea??

Thank you in advance. Desperate to fix this POS.


Tom

bearcatdon
11-27-2006, 08:00 PM
I am to the point in this job where i need to remove the lower intake. I cannot free up the fuel rails in order to do this. I did not want to mess with the connections towards the master cylinder, or remove the fuel rails/injectors so I loosened the connections towards the right side of the rails (looking at the front of the car) but i can't get the rear fuel rail connections loose? Anyone else have this problem??

Also, I saw that many people ref the new GM gaskets, I was planning on using the Felpro ones available from AutoZone and the bolts that I removed, a good idea??

Thank you in advance. Desperate to fix this POS.


Tom

If you follow the fuel rail you'll find that it is bolted on the lower side of the engine. This nut is very difficult to see. I left it on when disconnecting the fuel rail while cursing but could not get the threads to line back up. After what must have been about an hour of cursing and sleeping on it, I noticed it the next morning. Seeing it is half the battle, removing and replacing is the other. When you do finally get it undone, keep your eye on the green o-ring. The second job that I did for a friend I still didn't see it pop out even though I was looking for it. I later found it on the block.

I used Auto Zone parts and the original bolts which I cleaned, pipe doped and set with serviceable locktite. Knock on wood, that was 50,000 miles ago no leaks on mine or my buddy's.

tczer34
11-27-2006, 08:24 PM
Bear with me as I talk through your directions....If i am looking at the fuel rail as it is attached to the lower intake manifold I see 2 main sections, imagine x axis front and back. They are connected permanately by a section on the left hand side, y axis. On the right hand side there is a return line, fuel pressure regulator (connected to front rail) and in back the feed line with an odd bolt that screws into the fuel rail. If I loosen that bolt isn't there a way to remove that feed line?

If I picture the way you describe i follow that Feed line down along the block but eventually I hit a plastic sleeved section.

Apparently I am lost.

bearcatdon
11-27-2006, 09:58 PM
Bear with me as I talk through your directions....If i am looking at the fuel rail as it is attached to the lower intake manifold I see 2 main sections, imagine x axis front and back. They are connected permanately by a section on the left hand side, y axis. On the right hand side there is a return line, fuel pressure regulator (connected to front rail) and in back the feed line with an odd bolt that screws into the fuel rail. If I loosen that bolt isn't there a way to remove that feed line?

If I picture the way you describe i follow that Feed line down along the block but eventually I hit a plastic sleeved section.

Apparently I am lost.
The large line closest to the firewall is your inlet. I believe I used and adjustable wrench to remove it because I didn't have anything else large enough. This is the one with the O-ring. To loosen the other end, I removed the fuel regulator from the rail. The nut that I was referring to fastens the two fuel lines together with a small bracket to a stud on the side of the engine. Itís hard to see because itís in between the exhaust manifold and engine. Once this bracket is removed youíll have lots of freeplay in the lines. I believe the nut was an M8 (13mm socket). If all of these things are loose the lines should come out. You may have to give them a good tug. The rails will also give you lots of resistance. Although I hated doing it, I had to put a pry bar between the intake and fuel rail and pry like mad. Those dry injector seals donít like to budge.

tczer34
11-28-2006, 05:29 AM
I think I am on the same page with you now. The Return Line can be disconnected at the rail, I have been able to do that. As for the Feed Line what you are saying is that this must be disconnected at the firewall? I did not see that connection. What I saw on my car was a section about 10" from the firewall with some type of crazy connection that I do not know how to remove.

I noticed that part that attached the line to the block.

I do not plan on removing the fuel rail or injectors at all. This job can be done without doing that at all.

Thank you.

porscheman9101
11-28-2006, 06:36 AM
it looks like aldata tech info, gm decided to use plastic gasket frame with a inner rubber like seal, common fail on these engines. very very important push rods are different lengths!!!!! make 100% sure you dont mix intake and exhaust rods. i have been a tech for over 25 years this job is a little tricky even for veterans. good luck take your time and you can do it

bcopeland
11-29-2006, 02:36 PM
I think I am on the same page with you now. The Return Line can be disconnected at the rail, I have been able to do that. As for the Feed Line what you are saying is that this must be disconnected at the firewall? I did not see that connection. What I saw on my car was a section about 10" from the firewall with some type of crazy connection that I do not know how to remove.

I noticed that part that attached the line to the block.

I do not plan on removing the fuel rail or injectors at all. This job can be done without doing that at all.

Thank you.

Now I don't know about you - I've done this job about 3 times and each time I remove the fuel rails from the lower intake manifold -- why not? Take your time and do it completely. And yes - please do use the FelPro "Trouble Shooter intake gaskets.

chasM
11-29-2006, 08:47 PM
Alot of good advise in this thread. My engine seems to be leak free now.
Hope you( tczer34)found the fastener holding the fuel lines to the engine block ok. My big gripe was the damn inlet fuel line O-ring. It popped out Both times, :banghead: and I had to go to the dealer to get another..8 bucks. Ouch:banghead:

FastGM3
04-27-2007, 02:09 AM
I finished replacing the lower intake manifold gasket. I took my time, all seemed to go very well until I tried to start it. Fuel sprayed out of the the fuel rail, so I stopped trying right to start right away . I think it's spraying from the return line (if this is the line with the large nut the screws directly into the fuel rail fastening the line that fits inside the rail.) The nut is tight and was not cross threaded.

I never seen an o-ring for this line, is there suppose to be? What would cause this? I consider myself mechaincally inclined but when it comes to fuel injection I'm hopeless. Alot of other first timers seemed to get this job done right.

I know the other fuel line that fits into the rail (nearest to the front of the vehicle) has an o-ring and a fuel screen and get pushed into place then secured by a bracket with a nut. All injectors seated good. I don't get it. I had to stop for the night but now cant sleep do to worrying about how I'm going to solve this. Any help or thougths would be gratefully appreciated.

bcopeland
04-27-2007, 01:07 PM
Yes, it has an O-Ring and also, each fuel injector has O-rings. If you had fuel spurting, you probably missed one. Just because you do not see one when taking it apart, does not mean one is not required!

errorcauser
04-27-2007, 03:16 PM
I never seen an o-ring for this line, is there suppose to be?

The o-ring has popped out on you man. When you loosen that nut, and pull that fuel line out, the o-ring will pop out so fast you don't even see it. I found mine, but messed it up anyway. AutoZone has an assortment set of o-rings that are rated for use in fuel applications for around 6 bucks.

bcopeland
04-28-2007, 10:57 AM
AND . . . for what you pay for the O-ring from the dealer, you can buy 3 - 4 of those AutoZone thingies.

bearcatdon
09-16-2007, 11:18 AM
Update time.60K after my last repair the gasket started leaking again. Root cause was the same as all other vehicles, the top LH diagonal bolt loosened. These were things I did different this time around and info that I got talking to a mechanic at the dealer.

1) I bought an OEM lower intake gasket this time around vs. aftermarket. GM has pressed in metal pucks on the top and bottom of the diagonal bolt holes to prevent the plastic from cracking under the new torque specs. My gasket wasnít cracked but itís apparently been an issue. All other gaskets were aftermarket.
2) I didnít use any pipe dope on this repair but soaked them with serviceable (blue) loctite. This was apparently the main contributor to the field failures. GM recommends new bolts because they have a loctite patch on them that the original bolts never had. At $9.00 a bolt, Iíll put it on myself. First time around, I was scared that some of the bolts might run through a water jacket so I put more dope then loctite which was my ultimate mistake. The mechanic told me he only used loctite and never had any issues so that was good enough for me.
3) This time around I completely unbolted the heater line from the engine so this gave me easier access to the fuel line nut that bolts it to the block.
4) When I disconnected the fuel, I disconnected the regulator side first to help relieve the pressure which made catching the O-ring on the pressure side easier. Iím assuming that most people cut corners like me and donít properly relieve the fuel pressure.
5) Once I torqued the diagonal bolts to 220in/lbs it loosened the horizontal bolts, so I retorqued them back to 115 in/lbs. This didnít cause the gasket to fail the first time but was something I noticed on this last job and corrected it.
6) I tried leaving the fuel injectors in and it was relatively easy. I disconnected the harnesses that were close to the firewall, loosened the 2 bolts that fastened the rails to the block for a bit of movement then removed the manifold bolts with a ľĒ drive socket and extension. An adapter was used to mate it up with my torque wrench. When cleaning the intake gasket surface you have to be careful and not drop any carbon deposits which can fall and clog your injectors that are now pointing straight up at you. I did 2 jobs in which I removed the rail and one which I didnít. If I had to do it again, Iíd leave the rails in. Itís not a real big time saver but itís just one less thing that may go wrong like tearing an O-ring.
7) Put a foot of 3/8Ē (3/8 ID, 1/8Ē thk) rubber fuel line on your shopping list. You have two 2Ē-3Ē long hoses that go from the heater line to the plenum that can easily be damaged when removing them. I had to replace one the first time and the other the second time. Both times I had to drop my tools and go get some hose because I didnít have any. I now have a foot of the stuff in my tool box.

'97ventureowner
09-16-2007, 11:39 AM
I'm going to sticky this thread so it stays at the top of the forum and members will be able to access the info easily when they need it.

pepi-v
09-19-2007, 05:07 PM
I have 2 cars with this same problem, one leaking more than the other. What are all the gaskets/ o-ring I would need to do this. I want to get everything ready so I can try and do it without making extra trips anywhere to get stuff I forgot.
Also, I've read some stuff about the new bolts, and I don't remember if I saw something about the new bolts being longer or are they the same size?

Thanks

bearcatdon
09-19-2007, 08:39 PM
I have 2 cars with this same problem, one leaking more than the other. What are all the gaskets/ o-ring I would need to do this. I want to get everything ready so I can try and do it without making extra trips anywhere to get stuff I forgot.
Also, I've read some stuff about the new bolts, and I don't remember if I saw something about the new bolts being longer or are they the same size?

Thanks

My shopping list consists of:

1) Lower intake gasket from OEM
2) Fuel rail O-ring from OEM (I've never used after market so can't comment)
3) Upper intake or plenum gasket
4) 2 valve cover gaskets
5) Tube of high heat gasket maker
6) Can of gasket cleaner
7) Plastic putty knife
8) 1 foot of 3/8" fuel line
9) 2 gallons of Antifreeze...most probably DEX
10) oil and filter
11) Blue Loctite (serviceable)
12)thermostat
13) belt
14) plugs, dielectric grease, antiseize and wires,
15) 18mm wrench and deep socket. (they normally don't come in a set)


Those items are all I ever needed. I reused these parts but you may want to buy them and return if not needed.

1) O-ring for heater pipe to water pump
2) EGR gasket
3) Injector o-rings if you take them out.

DBLC
09-25-2007, 10:43 PM
Very good input to all.... i have read this string and found many useful advice..

thank you to all

mrfireball
10-21-2007, 10:03 AM
I'm about to embark on this wonderful :disappoin quest to replace my gaskets-YAY! (not)

If I'm reading you all correctly, the gaskets have changed. Now bear with my stupidity for a second...If i go to Autozone and purchase a Felpro gasket kit (upper) is that the right one I need to fix the issue of my AF and oil playing together or do I need the lower one and will the gasket be the revised version? As I said, bear with my stupidity as I've never messed with this before.

BTW, this is for the 01 mali, not the 99 monte in my sig

maxwedge
10-21-2007, 02:32 PM
I don't know if Autozone has the updated gaskets but Napa does, Gm does also, make sure you get the revised intake bolts and torquing procedure also.

mrfireball
10-21-2007, 05:47 PM
Ok, do I need the manifold gasket kit or the cylinder head gasket kit?
That's all I need to know.

maxwedge
10-21-2007, 06:17 PM
Intake kit.

gta333
10-28-2007, 03:50 PM
Started on the replacement gasket today. everyhting was going alright until I need to loosen the heater pipe fitting from the thermostat housing. there is no nut there to loosen. it appears to be threaded into the housing with no nut. Has anybody else come across this probelm Im refering to section 7.13a in the haynes book. Can anyone give me any ideas of what to do with this step. Thanks Gary

bearcatdon
10-28-2007, 08:11 PM
Started on the replacement gasket today. everyhting was going alright until I need to loosen the heater pipe fitting from the thermostat housing. there is no nut there to loosen. it appears to be threaded into the housing with no nut. Has anybody else come across this probelm Im refering to section 7.13a in the haynes book. Can anyone give me any ideas of what to do with this step. Thanks Gary

I just looked at that picture in chap. 2 and my 99 does not have that type of set up. My pipe goes into the intake as a friction fit with an O-ring. The set up is simular to the heater pipe/water pump connection.

gta333
10-29-2007, 06:37 AM
Thanks for your replies. It looks like it is pressed into the housing with a O-ring. I just have to figure out how to get it disconnected. I will worry about the reconnect later as I might have to go to a dealer and get something else. Has anybody else run into this problem. Thanks gary

pepi-v
10-30-2007, 03:07 PM
On mine, the heater nipple was pressed into that fitting. I had to squeeze the two plastic sides in on the clip, and it pops out then. I was informed that the old ones are a cheap pot metal that corrodes and breaks easy. The new replacement one is steel.

gta333
10-30-2007, 07:04 PM
Did you have to get a new piece that goes into the thermostat housing. If so is that a dealer item only. thanks for your help Gary

pepi-v
10-30-2007, 07:29 PM
yes I got a new piece, from the dealer GM P/N 24503682 I beileve it goes for around $15-$18. The new one is a cad-plated gold color and is steel with a thread sealing compound on it already. It has the o-ring in it already so you won't need to replace that one, and a new black plastic clip that will slide onto the heater nipple. If needed I still have the old one, I could take a picture and post.

dedwinson
01-07-2008, 11:50 AM
I just did this job with the help of my brother in law this Saturday. Took about 6 hrs to complete. When I bought my '98 Lumina in 2000, the dealer replaced the intake gasket under warranty due to an oil leak. Now at 115K miles I did it again.

First off, get the Felpro gasket set, and it probably is the more expensive set. There are a few reasons. First, the gasket is a metal gasket with some sort of neoprene around the critical areas. Second, my brother-inlaw is a mechanic who has never had one return to the shop due to leaks using this gasket, and he has used it on his own cars as well.

The Felpro set comes with nearly every gasket and O-ring you need to do the job. We did have to go to the dealer on a quick run to get an O-ring for the press fitted heater tube, but that was only a buck.

We also used an RTV sealant that is used in the shop. Apparently is is much better than the stuff recommended.

Bottom line is there are no leaks, and car is running very very well. The big key here is to make sure all surfaces are clean as clean can be to ensure the gaskets and RTV get good bonding.

I was planning on doing this job by myself, but I am so glad I worked with a professional.

dedwinson
01-07-2008, 11:54 AM
That heater nipple is not on all cars. My Lumina didn't have one. Simply a tube with an O-ring press fit into the engine.

I did have a Corsica a number of years ago that had one of these nipples. I didn't acually replace the nipple, rather I did a hill-billy repair by taking out the old corroded one, running a tap in the threads to clean out the crumbled metal. I then used some plumbing connectors, braised on a cut off piece of the heater tubing, then connected the two tube ends with some hose and clamps. Worked super but I don't have the car anymore.

Dalt10
01-26-2008, 07:48 PM
I had Goodyear replace mine 2 years ago. It started doing it again lately. I can see it leaking at the right front of the lower intake. I'm going to do it myself this time.

teegolf
01-30-2008, 11:04 PM
Just completed this task and it was not too bad. Does anyone know the part number for the fuel inlet line at the fuel rail? I lost mine and have tried the will fits and it still leaks. Chevy dealer wants to hook me $40.00 to buy the whole steel tube with the o-ring, line and accumulator. Chevy dealer says you cannot get the o-ring seperate. I see some on here talking about a $8.00 green o-ring. 1997 Lumina 3.1 engine. Please help. Thanks!

bearcatdon
01-31-2008, 04:46 PM
Just completed this task and it was not too bad. Does anyone know the part number for the fuel inlet line at the fuel rail? I lost mine and have tried the will fits and it still leaks. Chevy dealer wants to hook me $40.00 to buy the whole steel tube with the o-ring, line and accumulator. Chevy dealer says you cannot get the o-ring seperate. I see some on here talking about a $8.00 green o-ring. 1997 Lumina 3.1 engine. Please help. Thanks!

Go to another dealer. They definitely do sell that overpriced O-ring. I purchased it twice from two different dealers. Ask them to show you the part breakdown diagram and point the part out to them.

teegolf
02-03-2008, 02:09 PM
Went to three Chevy dealers and one Pontiac dealer. Got the same answer all places. Went to local o-rings/seal supply hose and picked up an o-ring that fit and would tolerate gasoline for $.50.

dyche
02-13-2008, 06:02 PM
Please help...just finished the job tonight, but the engine is smoking on and off. It was dark out so couldn't exactly see the source, however, the temperature guage in the car went about 3 quarters up before plunging back down. Some coolant was spilled during the job so I was hoping that it might just be burning off, but am at a loss overall.

Everything else in the engine is running well from the sound/looks of it though.

Thanks!

aadandrew
02-29-2008, 07:47 PM
How is you coolant levels? I'm curious whether your coolant maybe leaking out. Would explain why your temp shot up because not enough in there and then dropped down because none was in there to gauge. If I'm not mistaken the temp gauge measures the temp. of the coolant, if there is no coolant, there will be no temp.

To answer the question up top about the o-ring, call you local AC Delco dealer for a PN 217-461. Look to spend about $15, it comes with another O-ring which I believe is for the fuel return side. Believe me, us Delco distributors aren't making much on those O'rings, but Delco themselves have to be making a killing.

wafrederick
03-01-2008, 08:36 PM
Dorman Product does sell the intake gasket kit with new intake bolts and distribitor o ring.I sen this today at a Carquest customer expo today and Dorman was there.The intake gaskets are made out of metal instead of plastic and the kit goes for about $60.00

aadandrew
03-03-2008, 07:05 PM
Good piece of information, I may have went with them had I known that. Not that there is anything wrong with Felpro, they just didn't come with the bolts which you could easily spin $40 alone getting from GM.

One other thing I want to add about the O-Ring coming off the Inlet hose going into the Fuel Rail, be real careful and try and center the pipe in when installing the line. I put it on and mine leaked terrible because I must have nicked it good putting it in and it practically cut the O-ring in half. ITS REAL EASY TO DING THAT ORING INSTALLING IT. Its a tight fit, thats why everyone loses it when pulling the pipe out because it catches and shoots off once you pull that tube out. Take your time, its time consuming having to go back and replace it not to mention its an expensive O-ring and impossible to find on a sunday with the dealer is closed. I tried O-Riellys, Advance, and Autozone and they all told me they couldn't help me.

tmorgan079
03-12-2008, 10:35 PM
wow my mom told me every malibue that was around 1990s had this prob so did ares we just got ares fixed but good year did it we have tuns of probs with are car i hope you have had better luck ! My advise is if you need your car woked on fast take it to good year they do a good job doing intake gaskets!:sunglasse:popcorn:

micosan
03-18-2008, 02:05 PM
I just want to add my thanks to all the posters to this thread. I've been following this thread for a few years and feel confident I'm capable of doing this work and also knowing what parts are needed before hand to complete the work because of all the information posted. I'm sure many more people have read this thread and thought the same. Thanks

drock0206
04-26-2008, 11:38 PM
Starting this job next weekend, and wanted to clear something up.

I have heard several recomendations about what to do with the intake bolts wondering wat to do in regards of loctite and pipe dope.
My coworker said to place loctite on the bolts, let it set for an hour..then pipe dope them before final torquing...doesnt make sense really.

bearcatdon
04-27-2008, 09:59 PM
No pipe dope is required being that none of the bolts go through water jackets. Clean your bolts, put blue serviceable loctite (no wait time required )and torque down to the new specs.

thepit
06-26-2008, 02:31 PM
So I managed to crack through the screwhole where the upper and lower manifolds connect... I suppose I should have been more careful taking the upper manifold off in the first place, I didn't take the bolts off in the right order. Oh well lesson learned...

I'm going to order a new LIM, I *just* replaced the gaskets and fuel o-rings, haven't even started the car yet! Do I need to do this again, ie are they one-time-stress components? Because that's kind of lame : ) Alas at least I'll be good at it this time!

Also what's up with this gaskety-thing where the heater inlet pipe goes into the thermostat housing? Does that need to be replaced when you disconnect the two?

Thanks for your help!

dewangxp
06-27-2008, 09:43 PM
First off, get the Felpro gasket set, and it probably is the more expensive set. There are a few reasons. First, the gasket is a metal gasket with some sort of neoprene around the critical areas. Second, my brother-inlaw is a mechanic who has never had one return to the shop due to leaks using this gasket, and he has used it on his own cars as well.

The Felpro set comes with nearly every gasket and O-ring you need to do the job. We did have to go to the dealer on a quick run to get an O-ring for the press fitted heater tube, but that was only a buck.

We also used an RTV sealant that is used in the shop. Apparently is is much better than the stuff recommended.



I used the Felpro PermaDry Plus Gasket set. Unfortunately, the Upper Plenium Gasket was cardboard like material, which if not carefully could easily break. I installed it in my 2000 Malibu on 12/06 at approx 148K miles and still holding at 173K as of 6/27/08. Definitiely used RTV, reused the intake bolts that came on the car. When I removed the spark plug wires, I only removed from the row that was towards the radiator, the spark plug wires towards the firewall, I left them connected to the spark plugs. Instead I only unplugged the electrical connectors on the side of the ignition coil module pack, then remove the bolts holding the ignition coil module pack and just set it aside.

While I was at...
Replace the thermostat, because of age and easier to get to, since the manifold was removed

Replace the o-ring that drives the oil pump shaft, usually known to go back and a common place for oil leaks.

Tips I learned from other people.

The stud that holds the ignition coil to the rear valve cover can be removed, which helps remove the rear valve cover, I did not do this however.

Someone was able to remove the fuel injector rail from the intake without disconnecting the line. I believe that you would only need to remove the nut that holds the fuel line clips to the rear of the engine

colin12345
06-30-2008, 01:23 PM
Hello every, body I just wanted to say that I only became a member of A.F. 4days ago and already I've learned more that I can tell you in this short time thank you. I have a 2002 venture and had lots of problems with it but I read some of the threads and managed to fix a all of the problems again thanks to you guys. One problem that I would like to share with you all and that is I was having a over heating and leaking coolant problems. I did all the usual stuff thermostate, temp senser, plugs, water pump that had blown, I put all my problems down to the pump. But just when I was ready to send it to the garage when I found the problem, The leak was coming from behind a nut that went into the block..no it wasnt a core plug but a nut which i couln'dt free. The answer, a tin of leak repair which cost 5$. The van is running great now. thanks for your forum, its great.

citationx12
08-12-2008, 06:22 PM
Just replaced the gaskets and now I have a major vacuum leak from the lower intake manifold, tokk it apart, redid the job and still have the same issue. Any ideas?

dheld2
08-20-2008, 12:00 AM
If anyone does this, search the web for a non OEM custom gasket. It has more rubber and a metal plate instead of plastic, $90 bucks but Welll worth it if you go through all the work so as to mot have any leaks. this was for a 1999 alero 3.4 v6. http://www.dsengine.com/gmgasket/index.html

Buy it from them there gasket was awsome for my car.

1994-2005 3.1 & 3.4 V6 engines - with VIN code M,5 $1695
1996-2002 4.3 V6 engines - with VIN code W,X - $1695
1996-2001 5.0 V8 Engines - with M VIN code - $1550
1996-2001 5.7 V8 Engines - with R VIN code - $1550

ApplicationSale PriceGM 3.1L V6 1993-1999 VIN "M" $91.09GM 3.1L V6 1999-2006 VIN "J" $90.78GM 3.4L V6 1996-2005 VIN "E" $90.78GM 4.3L V6 1996-2006 $82.06GM 5.0L V8 1996-2002 $75.71GM 5.7L V8 1996-2002 $75.71

tjr19136
09-09-2008, 09:47 PM
I am another victim of this headgasket crisis. At first my car was over heating, smoke and oily water was coming from the tail pipe and when ever i fill up the coolant and it disappears. I went and purchase a bottle of gasket fix leaks stuff for $9.99. For about a week or 2 the car was running some what fine, no overheating, and no smokey tail pipe. Then one day while on the highway I notice the car was running hotter than it should and I notice water and stem coming through the radiator cap. I replace the radiator cap and the problem continue and destroy the new cap. For a while a was able to driving for approxiamtely 4-8 miles without overheating. Then one day i decided to use the correct antifreeze instead of water and the car began overheating ASAP. Now when if i drive for about 5-8 minutes the car will get hot and cut off when I am seating still at a stop light.

So I am going to beginning taking my engine apart tomorrow

dheld2
09-09-2008, 10:04 PM
Dude, If your engine was cutting off at a light and based on how you drove it with the problem, It may not be worth even rebuilding. You could have cracked the block or damaged the rings and or lifters.

tjr19136
09-10-2008, 12:44 AM
IDk, I thought it was cutting off due to the fact that it was overheating........Because the car will cut back on and drive find once it cool down.......... Remind you I was driving with no antifreeze, no water.

But I just began taking the very top of the engine off, I don't know the name of the top metal plate thing that say 3100 on it. But I notice most of the bolts were very lose and too easy to take out...And the thread of the bolts were wet and smell like a combination of oil,water,antifreeze. I began to feel under this metal plate thing and notice their was a plastic gasket...........I am wondering if I replace just that gasket can that solve my problem.......

Reminder, my problem is coolant is leaking into the engine oil and causing car to overheat...............

///manuel
09-17-2008, 02:06 PM
I am wrapping up the job on my car. I can't believe all the things I had to remove. Overall it's an easy job but very time consuming.

This is a list of the stuff I had to remove or put out of the way:
- Power steering pump
- Alternator
- Plug wires
- A bunch of sensor plugs
- 2 fuel lines
- Valve covers
- Upper intake manifold
- 5 or 6 coolant lines (soft and hard ones)
- Coilpack
- Pushrods
- Vacuum hoses
- EGR Valve
- Some random electric vacuum box on the upper intake

I left the fuel rails on just disconnected the two fuel lines. The o-ring went flying when I pulled on the back line (I found it just below).
I left the back valve cover on, just loosen the top two bolts that connect to the intake manifold.
I had to disconnect a hard coolant line to get the front valve cover to come out.

I took a few pictures that I will post at a later time.

///manuel
09-19-2008, 09:49 AM
Job finished and successful but boy did it take forever... (three nights).
The power steering pump wouldn't fit back in without disconnecting its hard line first after re-installing the lower intake manifold.
I should have put the EGR valve back in before the fuel lines which are in the way once installed.
Let's hope that the new gasket does the job!

JDubbb
04-12-2009, 03:11 PM
I've just finished replacing my intake manifold gasket and now I've got a rough idle, some hesitation on acceleration and a check engine light. I've gone back and checked all my electrical connections and looked for vacuum leaks. Any ideas?

markag6
05-18-2009, 02:42 PM
My dad and I did this last summer on my 2000 and it is still holding up. The job took us 12 hours but we were being pretty slow. We bought a repair manual from Auto-Zone and the felpro kit that included the extra gaskets and o-rings. We did not remove the fuel rails from the lower manifold. All we were able to remove the lower manifold with the fuel rails still attached. One of us would hold the manifold up while the other cleaned off the surfaces. It was a pain in the @$$ but it saved us some time. We only had 1 scary moment when we couldn't tighten down one of the rocker bolts. We got some gunk or metal shavings or something in the threads and had to re-tap that hole. That fixed it. I've put ~15,000 miles on the new gasket and have had no issues and no leaks. The aftermarket gasket was metal/rubber and really beefy, it seemed a lot better than the stock one. I think that this is a job that any reasonably mechanical person could accomplish, it just takes a lot of time.

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