spark plugs

i feel funny askin this but how in the hell do u get to the spark plugs i coulndt get the damn wire off?

Original plug wires, huh? :grinyes: That sucks!! The wires themselves don't actually suck, the fact that GM doesn't use any dialectric grease sucks. The repeated heating of the boot makes it stick to the percelain part of the plug.

Grab the boot, twist back and forth, and pull. Don't lose your patience! A nice pair of spark plug boot pliers works well but they aren't cheap.

If your having trouble getting to the rear (right bank) plugs, you don't need to resort to the old "Rock Engine Forwrd" trick......it's just not necessary. You probably have the engine cover off already. Remove the bracket that supports the back of the engine cover. You'll have all the room you need. Also a good idea to kneel on the cross-brace (body colored part) in front of the engine.

The number 6 plug will still be a little difficult to remove due to the o2 sensor positioning. Using a universal joint between your spark plug socket and extension will do the trick.

Carnutcass,

I too have a question about getting the plug wires off.

What about those metal jackets/sleeves that are over the plug wire boots? How do they come off, or do they come off with the boot when you pull the boot off?

Thanks!

Pull the metal heat shields up along the wire.

Have u rocked the motor foward so that u can get better access??

Smoovrider, I ran into the same problem when changing my plugs. I had close to 60k on them, and the factory boots were 'baked-on'. I tried like hell to get those suckers off and almost gave up. However, I discovered a neat little trick that will work for anybody in a similar situation - and there's no need to tilt the engine forward. One note, if you've got a GTP, remove the rear engine cover bracket (it will free up a lot of space). First, use a 5/8" open end wrench and fit it onto the factory spark plug boot (between the metal jacket and the fat end of the boot). Make sure that the wrench is on all the way so that it will not slip off (it should fit tightly on the boot). Second, take a piece of pipe (about a foot in length), one that will fit over the opposite end of the wrench, and use it like a breaker bar for leverage. Third, take an old towel and roll it up between that pipe and your plastic valve cover - this is used so that you don't exert too much pressure on the plastic cover and crack it. Now, gently pry back against the towel & valve cover with the pipe and the factory boot will pop right off the plug without any trouble. I couldn't believe how simple and effective this was. I wish that someone had posted this tip a lot earlier. Give it a try and see just how well this works.

iight ill have to try that thanks

i feel funny askin this but how in the hell do u get to the spark plugs i coulndt get the damn wire off?

I like to use the Lisle Spark Boot Puller PLiers- THey let you get a pretty good grip and can fit in some pretty tight spots. When you do get them off and replace the plugs, be sure you coat the insides of the boots with some dielectric grease.

Cheers,

Cory

man shit i did all that and them things on there good. i havent changed them since bought the car ( i know that pretty bad) i got 62000. i didnt buy it new tho it had miles on it. imma have to pay someone to get them bad boys off. thanks for yall help tho

OK, you are going to replace the wires anyhow. So take a sharp knife and split the boot. Be carefull, don't cut your finger off. If you can't get the tip off, leave it on. Take the socket and use a 3/4 on the end. I don't think you are going to find any other way to do it.
If things on the back get too tight, take the 3/4 socket off the end and use a box or open end on it. You just have to break it free.
Good luck and watch the fingers.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v425/kustomkid54/logo9.jpg