H22A TPS Setting, how to!!

Ok this is weird but fun and possibly dangerous in the long run but i need to correct it anyway. Basically, the TPS on my H22A was broken after it was shipped so I used the one from my F22 to get the car running. Well, the car runs ok but with a code 7(CEL) so im guessing this is the problem, however after some inquiries, i understand that one should maintain the exact setting when switching the TPS or else I could be running with my injectors open fully even at idle. Now my tach isnt working right(only works when vtec kicks in!??) but when it does, it shows that the car is idling at around 1500rpm even though it sound pretty low(this is after its fully warmed-up).
Given those circumstances, im trying to get ithe TPS back to normal setting but I cant clear the code no matter how accurately ive tried to return it to its original position. Is there a way(procedure) on how to do this right and clear the CEL??
Im also guessing ive been running abit rich, could this potetially destroy the O2 sensor??

Ok this is weird but fun and possibly dangerous in the long run but i need to correct it anyway. Basically, the TPS on my H22A was broken after it was shipped so I used the one from my F22 to get the car running. Well, the car runs ok but with a code 7(CEL) so im guessing this is the problem, however after some inquiries, i understand that one should maintain the exact setting when switching the TPS or else I could be running with my injectors open fully even at idle. Now my tach isnt working right(only works when vtec kicks in!??) but when it does, it shows that the car is idling at around 1500rpm even though it sound pretty low(this is after its fully warmed-up).
Given those circumstances, im trying to get ithe TPS back to normal setting but I cant clear the code no matter how accurately ive tried to return it to its original position. Is there a way(procedure) on how to do this right and clear the CEL??
Im also guessing ive been running abit rich, could this potetially destroy the O2 sensor??

I'm not sure what you're asking - but if you just want to know how to clear a CEL (reset the ecm) - with the car off pull the 10A clock/radio fuse found in the under-hood relay box for a minute or something (even less than that I think) , and then put it back in - that should reset your ECM - If you have a stereo that is coded you'll have to know the code for it, and also you have to reset your clock (:

but if it detects a problem again as soon as you start up - it's just gonna throw the code again.

I don't think the TPS is that complicated - but you'll need a test harness to test if you get .5v at idle from the ECM and that it gradually increases up to 4.5v at full throttle. which "exact setting" are you trying to maintain (just trying to understand this problem better) - also - what symptoms did you have that their was a problem with the h22a's tps sensor (just curious?) was it quirky throttle response? stuck throttle response? or what symptoms?

also how did you get the tps off of the f22 throttle body ? use a dremel to make some screw heads out of those rivet fasteners or whateva they are? couldn't you have just used the whole throttle body - or is it bigger on h22a's?

I know how to clear the CEL, just wasnt sure if the code was a result of the different TPS or mis-positioning. Yeah, I tested it and i got close to 2.5v at idle which means the injectors are more open than they should be. I'll get this sorted out tomorrow, it getting too cold outside, cant feel my fingers anymore.
The car runs ok just with the code 7, throttle response is good. I need to fix this darn cluster cause i never know my rpms till change over. I'll check out the accord forums for similar issues.
I wanted to use a dremel but because of the cold, my hand wasnt as steady and i was scared to cut into the sensor, so i used the good ol' hack-saw to make the screw heads.
You can use the entire Tb but in my case, i would run into 2 issues.
1- my secondaries would not work right because the TB's are different sizez(shaky/hesitating vtec!)
2- i had already configured my wiring different for the map sensor to mount on the firewall and gotten rid of my cruise-control and fabbed a throttle cable bracket to work with the F22 cable, so i decided to leeave it as is.
I didnt think it would be a problem positioning the TPS tho at the time. I just kinda memorized the position and slapped the good TPS on there.I shoulda paid more attention to this because its a pain the butt to get to because its soo darn close to the firewall.

I know how to clear the CEL, just wasnt sure if the code was a result of the different TPS or mis-positioning. Yeah, I tested it and i got close to 2.5v at idle which means the injectors are more open than they should be. I'll get this sorted out tomorrow, it getting too cold outside, cant feel my fingers anymore.
The car runs ok just with the code 7, throttle response is good. I need to fix this darn cluster cause i never know my rpms till change over. I'll check out the accord forums for similar issues.
I wanted to use a dremel but because of the cold, my hand wasnt as steady and i was scared to cut into the sensor, so i used the good ol' hack-saw to make the screw heads.
You can use the entire Tb but in my case, i would run into 2 issues.
1- my secondaries would not work right because the TB's are different sizez(shaky/hesitating vtec!)
2- i had already configured my wiring different for the map sensor to mount on the firewall and gotten rid of my cruise-control and fabbed a throttle cable bracket to work with the F22 cable, so i decided to leeave it as is.
I didnt think it would be a problem positioning the TPS tho at the time. I just kinda memorized the position and slapped the good TPS on there.I shoulda paid more attention to this because its a pain the butt to get to because its soo darn close to the firewall.

good stuff to know... and yeah you're right that tps sensor is a very awkward spot - actually a lot of stuff is awkward on the prelude - the engine bay is so tight. I'm hoping I don't have to to fiddle with the tps sensor myself (that's why I was asking how you got it on and off) i'm currently (since the swap actually) have probs that I believe is an EGR thing... it's just odd though, it doesn't happen much when the car is cold, but once it warms up i'll have a little bit of jerky throttle - like i'll be cruising in the lower rpms 2 - 3g, in say 4th, and there will be these really minor throttle surges - like throttle twitching almost. I've gerry rigged my egr's because I have two - and then of course i get a egr light, but the twitching problem *seems* to go away - but then again it may have just gone away because the car had time to cool, i've never done a very long run with the egr's jerry rigged. i'll have to test that further. I'm thinking a sticky egr problem also my egr gasket is currently "home made" so I definetley could be getting some leak. since it's happening in the low rpms the only other thing I can think of is perhaps tps sensor in that region or perhaps something to do with the IAB control diaphram - but i've plugged the vacuum and it seems to hold vacuum fine. maybe the solenoid? i have a spare one of those so i can check that also... last but not least maybe the MAP sensor or something? i've tested the simple stuff like the IAT sensor and it all checks out fine... you got any thoughts on this stuff? It doesn't do it at all at the high rpms, but will bog very occasionally thru the low rpms on up.

update: cleaning the egr, and part of the IM it attaches to with some carb cleaner - as well as replacing the egr homemade gasket with a real egr gasket has helped the problem. I'm not sure if it's the end all to this problem,.... but for now a lot of the twitch/hesitation seems to be gone.

sorry i've hi-jacked your thread (:

http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/tps

also came across that link for you - however I don't think it's anything you don't already know/have tried.

yeah thanks, im sure alot of people will find this useful.

yeah thanks, im sure alot of people will find this useful.

hey no worries - glad to help (;

My twitch/hesitation problems are still abundant unfortunatley despite my glee written a couple posts up - I think I solved some of it with a t-stat change today - but, I always think that right off the bat and then the next time i'm on a long haul I get reminded how wrong I was... In any case you can follow my transcent into madness here.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1090957

if you have any suggestions/tips reply either here or there (if you have an account) - anything will help at this point!