Poll What kind of oil do you use

Poll
What kind of oil dou you used
Syntetic Oil
Semi-Syntetic Oil
Mineral base Oil

I use synthetic oil. But of course i use Royal Purple so i dont know if you meant regular oil or race oil.:confused:

yeah I use syntetic . . . :rolleyes:

Castol GTX - may goto Castrol SynTec

Castrol Syntec is a blend. Mobil 1 is the same price and is real, regardless of base.

Syntec is a full synthetic. :smoker:

has anyone switched to synthetic on high milage engines? if so how did it work. i have heard about problems. i just want to hear about some real life experiences before i make the switch

Castrol Syntec uses a cracked petrochemical base, although technically speaking, it's a full synthetic.

It is 1/3 cheaper to produce than Mobil 1, yet it's sold for the same price.

Mobil 1 is a full synthetic.

Which would you buy?

(BTW, I used Syntec until recently, when I switched to Mobil 1)

Originally posted by 90CRXZCSi
I use synthetic oil. But of course i use Royal Purple so i dont know if you meant regular oil or race oil.:confused:

Hey how much are the royal purple stuff cost? I heard that they add "10" hp? I find that hard to believe?

Originally posted by white97ex
has anyone switched to synthetic on high milage engines? if so how did it work. i have heard about problems. i just want to hear about some real life experiences before i make the switch

If you gonna make the switch ...i'd suggest u gotta engine flush first. Cause ur engine is already use to the other stuff. Its bad for your engine if you switch it without engine flush.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic.

One thing ive noticed is when its nearing time for an oil change. VTEC doesnt seem to kick in as strong. Once you get new oil in the engine. VTEC is more responsive and agressive.

Anyone else experience this?

I use Mobil one 15w50 weight synthetic,
used Syntec 5w50 before.

Originally posted by white97ex
has anyone switched to synthetic on high milage engines? if so how did it work. i have heard about problems. i just want to hear about some real life experiences before i make the switch i made the switch about 90k miles. i switched to castrol syntec blend ran that four about 10k miles and just recently switched to mobil 1 tri sythetic at 125k miles and my engine runs great. it runs smoother than it did with conventional. i think the trick is to make the switch gradually.

mobil 1 fully synthetic 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer

Originally posted by mellowboy


Hey how much are the royal purple stuff cost? I heard that they add "10" hp? I find that hard to believe?

this 10 hp gain is probably from high output racing engines. so what kinda history does Royal Purple or Redline have? Castrol has proven itself & Mobil 1 is recommended for Vipers & Corvettes to Porsches & Ferraris. what else needs to be said

Mobil 1 synthetic and nothing else. :)

before i only use mobil 1 but now i'm using the honda VTEC oil, both very good oil

Originally posted by white97ex
has anyone switched to synthetic on high milage engines? if so how did it work. i have heard about problems. i just want to hear about some real life experiences before i make the switch

Fritz had a long (when were they ever short? :bloated: ) dissertation on this one. I wonder if it's still here.

Btw, fritz: if you're around, please give your 2 cents' worth on my query about Splitfire's new triple platinum. I need to replace my plugs soon. Thanks man. :)

Sorry, off-subject there. I've always used Mobil 1. :D

Castrol Syntec 10W30 in my '98 Prelude SH
and Castrol GTX 20W50 in my '64 El Camino.

Demonic - Castrol sells both "Syntec" which is a full synthetic (although not a PAO base), and "Syntec Blend" which is something like a 50/50 mix.

Most oil questions will be answered at these two sites:
Oil Bible: http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/engineoil_bible.html
Oil FAQ: http://auto.msk.ru/auto/ehoilfaq.htm
:cool:

Originally posted by fritz_269
Castrol Syntec 10W30 in my '98 Prelude SH
and Castrol GTX 20W50 in my '64 El Camino.

Demonic - Castrol sells both "Syntec" which is a full synthetic (although not a PAO base), and "Syntec Blend" which is something like a 50/50 mix.

Most oil questions will be answered at these two sites:
Oil Bible: http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/engineoil_bible.html
Oil FAQ: http://auto.msk.ru/auto/ehoilfaq.htm
:cool:

Thanks for the links fritz!Pretty much everything i need to know about oil! But i want to know if you or anyone has ever flushed their engine like that link stated?? if you did, did you use 0w20 or 0w40(reg oil) or synthetic?...cause that would be one expensive oil change using synthetic to flush it! also if you did...what rpm's did you keep it at for the 20 mins. to flush?...or did ya just keep it at regular idle? and did you run it for the full 20 mins?.. do you recommend this be done for an engine with about 110,000 miles? just got a little head work and new gaskets all around, i don't know if that makes a difference?:rolleyes:

The best way to flush is with a specifically formulated "flushing oil". Most petrol companies make some version, but you rarely see it in your local auto parts store.

You could flush with just a low weight synthetic (like 0W20) oil, but that doesn't have the solvents that a flushing oil does, so it would be drastically less effective and not really much cheaper.

The quick and cheap way to flush is to add a concentrated solvent to your existing oil and just run your engine at a fast idle for around 5-15 minutes. Then drain it immediately.
http://www.autobarn.net/chmf-3.html ($2.69)
http://www.guarding-our-earth.com/amsoil/flush.shtml ($4.75)

And if you switch to synthetic, do change it out after the first 3000 miles no matter what the manufacturer claims. After that point, you can go longer between changes if you like.


But for rybred, with 110,000 miles, I'd probably just stick to a good mineral oil like Castrol GTX. Re-read this quote from the engine oil bible:
Of course, like most things nowadays, there's a condition attached when using flushing oils. In an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thin. I have heard of engines with over 280,000km that worked fine, but when flushed it failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper ring(now really clean)contaminated the oil and screwed the rod bearings.
:cool:

fritz, i've switched to synthetic about 1 year ago when i had approx. 135,000kms...i'm now at 157,000kms...i don't know what that is in miles...i guess it's about 100,000...but i regularly change my oil every 5000kms...so do you still think it's a bad idea to flush my engine with the amount of km's i have on my engine?? If you know?...what am i mainly cleaning out when i flush my engine?...cause i did get all my valves and head cleaned when i bent those valves! sorry to go on and on about this subject, i just want to make sure i don't f#@k up my engine! thanks!

I used to use Mobile 1 then I switched to Castrol GTX.

Originally posted by rybred
fritz, i've switched to synthetic about 1 year ago when i had approx. 135,000kms...i'm now at 157,000kms...i don't know what that is in miles...i guess it's about 100,000...but i regularly change my oil every 5000kms...so do you still think it's a bad idea to flush my engine with the amount of km's i have on my engine?? If you know?...what am i mainly cleaning out when i flush my engine?

You don't need to flush it now... The idea is to flush it right before you switch to synthetic. By now you've done enough oil changes with synthetic that it doesn't really matter at all.

I wouldn't do a flush. It would just be a waste of money.
:cool:

Originally posted by fritz_269


You don't need to flush it now... The idea is to flush it right before you switch to synthetic. By now you've done enough oil changes with synthetic that it doesn't really matter at all.

I wouldn't do a flush. It would just be a waste of money.
:cool:

Thanks fritz, won't flush it!

Mobil one tri synthetic
Spend money now than later
:silly2:

I use Mobil 1 tri synthitec that shit works good.

until reading this post i was gonna switch to synthetic....... i guess i shouldn't now, it sounds like a huge process, flushing etc, and not really recommended

I use Mobil 1 synthetic 15-50. Works very well.

Originally posted by BoosterSH
I use Mobil 1 synthetic.

One thing ive noticed is when its nearing time for an oil change. VTEC doesnt seem to kick in as strong. Once you get new oil in the engine. VTEC is more responsive and agressive.

Anyone else experience this?

I had the same problem. It's because vtec is engaged by oil pressure.
Read this.

http://www.leecao.com/honda/vtec/dohcvtec.html

Castrol GTX 10W30

I use mobil 1 but as far as making more HP, theres no way oil can make hp. Its not possible mabey slight because of the viscosity but you won't be able to tell. Synthetics do keep your engine cooler though which is a good thing:flipa:

Whatever is onsale sale or cheap...anymore i use the oil we stock at work....lol


gunnmen01

mobil1 synthetic all the way 5w-30:smoka:

have always used the chevron supreme, or the walmart car and driver. whatever I can find for 89 cents a quart. but I guess when I put my B20 in, Ill flush it and use full synthetic.

If im getting a b20b, it cant be any older than 97 right? I dont know what kind of mileage it has but it must be low enough to where the deposits arent sealing anything yet. should i do it?

You'd be amazed the difference between expensive and cheap oils. Pretty well nothing.

The only real difference is weight (dependent on temperature) and syn/dino oil.

i use redline oil

http://www.redlineoil.com/images/race40w.jpg

I use Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel in a 1983 Mercedes. Installed at 100 000 kilometers. with oil analysis, did a change at 110 000 kilometers on the oil, like 16 regular changes. car uses a litre, like 1US qt every 6000 km, ie 3700 mile, car is at 310 000 km now, and did not have to spend $400 on front seal replacement.

you nkow this is over 3 months old right?