Bad PASSlock! Help me get a recall going, please!

I have a 2001 Grand Am. I began buying it this past June ($8k still owed) and a problem generated by the PASSlock system has made my life, for the past two months, a living HELL. Before it became clear why my car was stalling at freeway speed or at 20MPH and having hard starts, crank/no-starts and start/stalls (the "security" lamp didn't begin coming on until just this week and the problem began in late October...) I'd already had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced, spent (lost) money for three inconclusive diagnostics and several tows, had my car at the dealer I bought it from for over a week (and they couldn't figure it out..) and have been unable to drive anywhere beyond work for fear of it stalling in the middle of the road again!

Finally, the security lamp began coming on with each malfunction.

I've spoken to several mechanics locally who say that this problem is so pervasive and common in Grand Ams that they're AMAZED there isn't a recall. These same mechanics won't work on it. They warned me to be very leery of anyone except Pontiac dealers who will "fix" it...

I've read hundreds of Internet posts about PASSlock malfunction. It seems outrageously common. Last night I spoke on the phone to a Pontiac rep who is going to try to get me reimbursed for my repairs after I get the car to a dealer tomorrow (now I've only got to figure out how to get the grand or so a new engine computer and PASSlock interface - the prob is in the wiring harness and, if driven while malfunctioning ruins the engine computer - will cost me. it'll be this car's second engine computer replacement...).

I'm trying to get a recall petition going. Who's with me? If you've had PASSlock probs with a GA write me:

[email protected]

Sounds good to me, although with the way GM is going these days financially and having just recalled only 2 million trucks on a rear seat-belt issue, I think someone would have to actually be hurt or worse before they'd consider the passlock issue. its been going on since 99, six-seven years later, and not only the grand ams, but chevy malibus and olds aleros. nothing done about it.

And they still can't figure out why the japanesse are doing so much better. Maybe they should stop building stupid concept cars like the new Solstice from Pontiac or that truck/car thing from Chevy and focus on cars people actually want and can afford. And maybe not building them over seas in Australia and China and put their money into the Americans who need job desperately so they can afford a hot new Pontiac someday.

Thats my beef.

"This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.

Delivery to the following recipients failed.

[email protected]"

not to say your diagnosis is incorrect but it's my understanding that passlock only does it's security check during pre-start and/or start sequence afterwards it remains passive. The computer could have internal or wiring problems to cause your problems but the car seems too new for the typical corrosion problem. And isn't there a recall on the ignition cylinder already in response to a passlock problem, not sure on what cars it's on but I know there is one on some gm model.

nightcast, heard of the lemon law? if i were u, i would threaten to sue, they'll change thier tune, and demand all your money back you paid for the car and labor/parts money and tell them to stick the car up thier asses. 2001s(and other gm models) are notorious for pass lock trouble, my suggestion is TURN IT OFF, DISABLE it.

i think catback23s right, there is a ignition cylinder recall, not sure what it intails. Goto Advance Auto or autozone web site they hav recall info upto date.

XI... man.... how the HELL did you manage to dig up this old of a thread? lol

HEY Ride! I didnt dig this up....Hummm... I havnt even been here for a couple days doing the damn holiday crapola.

I have a 2001 Grand Am. I began buying it this past June ($8k still owed) and a problem generated by the PASSlock system has made my life, for the past two months, a living HELL. Before it became clear why my car was stalling at freeway speed or at 20MPH and having hard starts, crank/no-starts and start/stalls (the "security" lamp didn't begin coming on until just this week and the problem began in late October...) I'd already had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced, spent (lost) money for three inconclusive diagnostics and several tows, had my car at the dealer I bought it from for over a week (and they couldn't figure it out..) and have been unable to drive anywhere beyond work for fear of it stalling in the middle of the road again!

Finally, the security lamp began coming on with each malfunction.

I've spoken to several mechanics locally who say that this problem is so pervasive and common in Grand Ams that they're AMAZED there isn't a recall. These same mechanics won't work on it. They warned me to be very leery of anyone except Pontiac dealers who will "fix" it...

I've read hundreds of Internet posts about PASSlock malfunction. It seems outrageously common. Last night I spoke on the phone to a Pontiac rep who is going to try to get me reimbursed for my repairs after I get the car to a dealer tomorrow (now I've only got to figure out how to get the grand or so a new engine computer and PASSlock interface - the prob is in the wiring harness and, if driven while malfunctioning ruins the engine computer - will cost me. it'll be this car's second engine computer replacement...).

I'm trying to get a recall petition going. Who's with me? If you've had PASSlock probs with a GA write me:

[email protected]

This happened to me as well in my 2000 Grand AM SE. $400.00 later it was fixed, sounds like an ongoing problem.

This happened to me as well in my 2000 Grand AM SE. $400.00 later it was fixed, sounds like an ongoing problem.


My security light started coming on again about a year after paying the dealership $450 to replace a faulty Ignition lock cylinder. I was at my wit’s end. My wife and kids would be stuck at night in some shopping center parking lot waiting 10 minutes to reset the stupid thing. I was able to Bypass, Disable or Ghetto Hack my passlock II anti-theft system on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero without relays or resistors. I had my local Auto wiring tech install a $5 on/off toggle switch under my dash that is connected into the yellow (key resistance/code/recognition) wire that can be cut while the engine is running to essientially bypass passlock I(1) or II(2) permanently.(I do not have nor intend to install a remote starter and I do not have an alarm on this car.) The toggle switch idea came about because of my concern that a dealership tech could possibly reset the security “fail- enable” mode or the battery could die or become disconnected for an extended period of time and reset the intended fault. All I need to do is flip a switch to break the circuit again while the car is running to take the passlock system offline. When the system is offline, the security light is on constantly.(Not flashing.) I don’t mind the light, but others may want to remove the bulb or black it out. Here’s how the setup works:
1)Switch On while engine is running – Security system is on.(Factory Setting) Security light is off. (Circuit is complete.)
2)Switch Off while engine is running – Security system goes into “fail-enable” mode and bypasses the passlock system.. Security light is illuminated.(Circuit is broken.)
3)Switch On while engine is off – Security system is on (Factory Setting)
4)Switch Off while engine is off – Security system detects this as a theft attempt
and will not allow you to start the car until you flip the switch On to complete the circuit.(Acts as a FUEL KILL SWITCH.)
Below you will find a thread and some supporting evidence of why this bypass actually works. The entire job took 25 minutes. There is an incredible link below with high resolution pictures of the wiring for your specific car. I included the actual photos that I used to gain access to my ignition lock cylinder wiring. *Special note: those with GM Class II Data Bus should leave your radio connected during the entire procedure so nothing weird happens. If you are unsure if your car is so equipped, it’s best to leave the radio connected and let it hang. Good luck and post with your success stories! 12/4/05

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=59694&PN=1&TPN=1 Is this You? Get in your car....try to start it and find that the passlock II is screwed up again, you have to wait 10 minutes for it to reset. When it resets it starts up and runs fine. Fix-------Start the car, find the yellow wire that I'm sure you've read about, the rcode wire that is, and cut it. Shut off the car and you're done! The rcode wire on my 2001 alero is behind and to the left of the radio, you must take out the radio.....the yellow wire accompanies two other wires, the white and black, the 3 wires are alone and run inside what appears to be a cheap electrical tape that will fall apart in your hand when you start tugging on it, they are very thin wires, maybe 18 to 22. I taped off both ends of the yellow wire too.Took me about 14 days to find this out and reading no exageration 1000 posts. Forget all the relay, DEI and resister crap that I'm sure you've read about. All this writing assumes that this will continue to work.....i WILL be back here to post an update if it fails again. If you have doubts of me coming back to update a failure you can email me

http://www.insurorsservicebureau.com/ISB%20technical/ISB_QA.pdf page 4, The PASS Key Module also has the ability to allow engine operation if it recognizes a system fault in the ignition key reference circuit while the engine is running. In this case the Module enters and remains in a mode which allows the engine to be started and run without reading the resistance chip. This mode requires that the original factory resistance chip key be in the ignition lock
cylinder at the time the fault occurs. During this mode, the
security light will be ON all the time. When the key reference circuit is repaired, the module will automatically reprogram itself to the mode requiring the original resistance chip.

http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=84&link=BULLDOG
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=87&link=BULLDOG
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ and click on vehicle wiring diagrams to select your particular make.
Also how to disable Daytime Running Lamps http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html
2001 Olds Alero Locate the DRL relay in the main fuse box under the hood, it is #22 corresponding to the diagram on the underside of the fuse box cover. Remove the relay, snip pin 87, and re-insert.

I still havnt had this trouble myself but hav seen it prevelant on 01's and up. My wife had trouble with our 99' but after I told her to ditch the 100 things on her keychain and after she did, the prob went away.

A year later, thats when the warrnty on the part is up isnt it?
This does need to be addressed by the NHTSA for a recall, I agree on that . Along with some other GA issues with the intake gaskets.
But seeing how GM's going for broke, I dont see them addressing any issues on a car they've discontinued.
For this to work you/we all need to get signatures from every GA owner possible. Thats how you get their attention, with 100,000++ signatures. So start collecting, I'll sign it!

I have not had the problem on my 96 GAGT but I have seen enough threads on this forum regarding the passloc that I feel that it should be taken care of. You may want to check out the other Forums IE: Oldsmobile/Chevy/Buick cars in the same body line to see if they too are having the problem. I would be willing to bet that they use the same ignition setup. I could be wrong But if your trying to get a recall started it would not hurt to get their names as well the more names the more attention you will get.

I'll sign it!

XI: I'm with you on the other issues as well.

I have not had the problem on my 96 GAGT

Most pre-99 Grand Am's don't have passlock, actually I've yet to run across a single one.

the below actually works...

Heres more info on a fix of that passover module starting problem. If you try this fix, please report back the results.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^

n my opinion, used parts won't solve the problem either because they will just fail like the new part that I put on. There are literally thousands of posts on the internet of people with these same ignition lock cylinder problems. The N-body cars seem to be the leaders.(Malibu, Alero, Grand-Am) Yeah, I can see where this might seem a bit involved.... but it's really not. I just wanted to follow up with evidence of how it works. The quick simple fix is just to cut the yellow wire and tape up both ends. I took a screwdriver to pop the cover from around the stereo and took out 4 screws. Then, pulled out the stereo. The 3 wires from the ignition are right there on the left. Start the car and cut the yellow wire. That's it. You won't have to replace the ignition lock cylinder until it falls apart. I don't have to worry about my wife and kids being stuck somewhere. I certainly didn't mean for it to come across as being complicated at all. Enevitably, someone will ask why this works.
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http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t491067.html

the below actually works...

Heres more info on a fix of that passover module starting problem. If you try this fix, please report back the results.



This fix actually originates from some documents from GM Engineering. They were written for GM fleet trucks and vans so they could add remote start. We just use this procedure to Permanently Disable Passlock. Here are the links to the original bulletins:
http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull2wsA.pdf and
http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull26.pdf

The procedure to cut the Yellow Data Wire (while the engine is running)triggers the "fail-enable" mode. This is great, but it doesn't address the issue of battery disconnection at a later date. The bulletin warns that a battery disconnect will reset the PCM and clear the intended "fail-enable" condition. This will cause a "no-start" condition at your next attempt. This makes the addition of the On/Off toggle switch the best choice because you will not have to enter the wiring harness at a later date to reconnect the Yellow Data Wire. Here is the document re-written so that it makes sense to car owners.

PASSLOCK I or II DISABLEMENT

The following is a procedure to disable Passlock I or II Systems for vehicles in which remote start/stop system installations are required. This procedure is required because a remote start system will not function with the current Theft Deterrent System (Passlock) which is included on many 1996 and up GM vehicles.

Please note that this modification is intended to be used only in conjunction with the installation of a remote start/stop system and does not provide a procedure to install a remote start/stop system.

CAUSE
If an attempt is made to start a vehicle by a means other than a key rotation in the ignition switch, the Body Control Module (BCM) will interpret this start as a vehicle theft and disable the fuel injectors.

CORRECTION
A minor wiring modification may be made to allow the vehicle to be started remotely. This modification includes adding a switch to allow the customer to select “ON” to disable Passlock or “OFF” for normal Passlock operation.

CAUTION: When this modification is performed and the switch is set to the ON position, the theft deterrent feature will be disabled. When the theft
deterrent is disabled the SECURITY or THEFT telltale will light up indicating that the theft deterrent system is NOT functioning.

PASSLOCK MODIFICATION
Refer to appropriate GM service manuals and/or SVMQP Electrical Guideline Manual for instruction on splicing and electrical connections.
1. Select a suitable on-off switch (see note below) which will be used to disable/enable the Passlock System. Mount the switch in a location such that it is accessible to the driver and will not interfere with normal vehicle operation.
NOTE: This is an extremely low current circuit (approx. 7mA), it is therefore very important that a high quality, low energy, fast acting switch be utilized
for this application.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Locate the Main Ignition Switch Harness. GM's Passlock System wires exit the Ignition Switch Tumbler together and then join with the Main Ignition Switch Harness. (See http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ or http://64.85.6.118/diagrams/diagrams.asp and select your Make, Model and Year for wire colors and clues on the quickest way to access these wires.)
4. Locate the Yellow Passlock Data Wire which is included in a bundle of three tiny (20 GA) wires wrapped in friction tape.
Cut this wire and splice a 0.5mm2 (20 GA) yellow wire to each end of the cut wire.
Keep wire length to a minimum. Route modification wires clear of moving parts.
Connect the yellow wires to the switch such that the contacts are OPEN when the switch is in the ON position.
5. Turn modification switch to the OFF postion (contacts closed).
6. Start vehicle to verify normal operation. If engine “cranks but will not start"
recheck the switch position (contacts should be closed), wire connectors and
modification wiring.

SWITCH OPERATION

To enable remote start:
Start the engine with the ignition key (modification switch must be in the OFF
position). Turn modification switch to the ON position (contacts open). The
SECURITY or THEFT telltale will light up indicating that the Passlock System is inoperative.Once the SECURITY or THEFT telltale has been on for at least 5 seconds the vehicle can be turned off and then remotely started.

To disable remote start:
The Passlock System can be reactivated by turning the modification switch OFF(contacts closed). Vehicle can either be running or off when this is done.

Please note that the VCM/PCM will record Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) related to the security system when the modification switch is in the ON position (circuit open). This is due to the way that the VCM/PCM interprets this condition.

NOTICE
Any condition which removes battery power from the Vehicle Control Module/Powertrain Control Module (VCM/PCM) (e.g. dead battery, disconnected harness connectors, etc.) will prevent the vehicle from being restarted. If the engine exhibits a “cranks but will not start” symptom, place the modification switch in the OFF (contacts closed) position. This will reactivate the Passlock System and allow the vehicle to be started with the ignition key.


Ray

Proud Member of The Anti-Passlock Club:smokin:

Still is something that shouldnt hav to be done AT all. So it seems their is fault in the gm code with controls passlock? Glad mines not given me any trouble, you guys are useing the right keys(w/chip)?

Good Luck on your Recall.

I believe the same thing is happening with my car. I have a 2001 Grand Am SE. Not sure on the motor size think 2.4. Any way have had it towed and worked on already once this month. The first time this happened i went through a brushless car wash with an underbody wash and when I pulled out of the carwash lot the security light came on. Not sure what was happening I went to pick my son up and shut the car off. I tried starting it later while I was waiting thinking the security light would go off after i started it. I did not know about leaving the key in the on position for 10 minutes at this time. Anyway when I started it again for a second time and the light was still on. I decided i would just continue to wait for my son. 10 minutes or so later he came out and I went to start the car and it would not start. I was very surprised that it did not start. I never did get it started and ended up getting another ride home that night. The next morning I called to have the car towed and worked on. I was lucky as I get reimbursed for the tow and the mechanic that worked on it cleaned the lock cylinder and tried the second key I carry. I was luck he only charged me $50. I contined to use Key #1 for two weeks.

The second time this happened I had washed the car the night before and the security light did come on again when leaving the car wash lot. I had been told if that happens again to leave the key on the on position so I continued to drive home (20 minute drive). The next morning I went to work and the car started and no security light was on. When I left work that day The car did not start. So I tried the reset thing and waited for 10 mminutes while the security light flashed. When it stopped flashing I tried starting the car and it did not start. I carry a second key I carry and the car started.

I wonder how much more trouble I will have in the future from reading some of these postings. Anyone have ideas if ordering a key from the dealer would help? Do they have chips in them or do they get old/worn?

Another question I have is I really want a remote starter and wonder now if I should still consider putting one in. My mechanic tells me that if they do it they would by pass the security system. Another mechanic is know says he can work with it? What does that mean and what would be the right thing to do? I hate warning lights so I would not be in favor of disconnecting it it and having the security light stay on.

I believe the same thing is happening with my car. I have a 2001 Grand Am SE. Not sure on the motor size think 2.4. Any way have had it towed and worked on already once this month. The second time this happened I did the reset of the key/security. Sat there for 10 minutes and then it started fine. I was lucky as I get reimbursed for the tow and the mechanic that worked on it cleaned the lock cylinder and only charged me $50. I wonder how much more trouble I will have in the future from reading some of these postings. Anyone have ideas if ordering a key from the dealer would help? Do they have chips in them or do they get old/worn?

Another question I have is I really want a remote starter and wonder now if I should still consider putting one in. My mechanic tells me that if they do it they would by pass the security system. Another mechanic is know says he can work with it? What does that mean and what would be the right thing to do? I hate warning lights so I would not be in favor of disconnecting it it and having the security light stay on.

Welcome reply's to [email protected].

Just follow the instructions and snip the yellow wire. Get that on-off switch before you do it and splice it on. Read the instructions about this fix abovel. If it's a passlock problem, you'll have a non-start again because it's your key that's causing it.

ric

Could this be the problem with my 93 Grand AM? Has a remote entry w/ alarm button. I had to do a quick fix on a minor tilt problem, but when I re connected the battery, The alarm system now sounds off when I go to open the door, the remote lock/alarm set does nothing, it will not unlock the doors, and will not unset the alarm. So will this wiring job work for my 93?

I just had mine die out on me but i didnt know what was wrong until i had the car looked at. the security light came on but i didnt know what it meant at the time. $400 for new ignition + $260 for the towing to get home(was out of town and had to be back the next morning, it was my only choice). if it happens again im going to definetly cut the wires and put in a switch.

I believe the same thing is happening with my car. I have a 2001 Grand Am SE. Not sure on the motor size think 2.4. Any way have had it towed and worked on already once this month. The first time this happened i went through a brushless car wash with an underbody wash and when I pulled out of the carwash lot the security light came on. Not sure what was happening I went to pick my son up and shut the car off. I tried starting it later while I was waiting thinking the security light would go off after i started it. I did not know about leaving the key in the on position for 10 minutes at this time. Anyway when I started it again for a second time and the light was still on. I decided i would just continue to wait for my son. 10 minutes or so later he came out and I went to start the car and it would not start. I was very surprised that it did not start. I never did get it started and ended up getting another ride home that night. The next morning I called to have the car towed and worked on. I was lucky as I get reimbursed for the tow and the mechanic that worked on it cleaned the lock cylinder and tried the second key I carry. I was luck he only charged me $50. I contined to use Key #1 for two weeks.

The second time this happened I had washed the car the night before and the security light did come on again when leaving the car wash lot. I had been told if that happens again to leave the key on the on position so I continued to drive home (20 minute drive). The next morning I went to work and the car started and no security light was on. When I left work that day The car did not start. So I tried the reset thing and waited for 10 mminutes while the security light flashed. When it stopped flashing I tried starting the car and it did not start. I carry a second key I carry and the car started.

I wonder how much more trouble I will have in the future from reading some of these postings. Anyone have ideas if ordering a key from the dealer would help? Do they have chips in them or do they get old/worn?

Another question I have is I really want a remote starter and wonder now if I should still consider putting one in. My mechanic tells me that if they do it they would by pass the security system. Another mechanic is know says he can work with it? What does that mean and what would be the right thing to do? I hate warning lights so I would not be in favor of disconnecting it it and having the security light stay on.
This is strange to me because the Passlock R-Code is generated by the key cylinder, not the key itself, so theoretically switching keys should not make any difference. The older GM VATS system used the black pellets in the shaft of they key. Occasionally they would wear out from constant use, and it was a matter of buying a new key from the dealer with the correct R-Code. This is probably why when Passlock problems arise, the dealers are opt to replacing the whole ignition switch.

I had a similar issue with my GA where the car would turn over but not start. This was after having the vehicle serviced at a GM dealership for a bad key cylinder. $650 for them to drill out the old cylinder (the key would no longer turn in the ignition), and when I came to pick up the car, they couldn't get it started. They kept trying to blame it on the remote starter (as all dealerships inevitably do because they can't see past their own OBD computers). I sat in the parking lot with the technician watching me uninstall they bypass module. After the car still wouldn't start, he was getting rather perplexed. The Passlock light was flashing, so every time we tried to start it and failed, we'd have to wait ten minutes to try again. Finally I asked him for his multimeter and began testing the ignition wires. Lo and behold, the 2nd ignition wire was not powering up properly. After much lobbying and finger-pointing, I got the impression that they weren't willing to help me with this new problem. I took a paper clip and jumped ignition 1 to ignition 2 and waited for the security light to go out. Sure enough, the car fired right up after that. So I came in with one problem and left with another. I had no doubt that drilling out the old key cylinder somehow wrecked my ignition switch, but they wouldn't admit to it, and being from out of town they had no obligation to me. The car runs fine, so I don't really care either way.

Anyways, without going on too much of a rant, my point is that it's not necessarily a bad Passlock module causing the security light to come on. A bad ignition switch could also cause similar issues.

Edit: I still don't understand why GM wont just use exclusively transponder-based immobilizers... They were on the right track with Passkey, but there are still R-Code based cars being built. The problem is Passlock is a mechanical-based immobilizer that relies on contacts and resistance, so eventually something has to wear out... Transponders are based on electromagnetics and dont suffer from the same problems. Why, GM, why?

Well, me being in the remote start bizz for over 15 years now will tell you that 95% of the "failure to start" problems ALL GM lines have revert to the PK1 or PK2 problems. It seems more noticable on certain models for some reason. GM now is blaming customers with long or heavy keychains.

I offer to bypass them completely for customers not wanting to fork out $400-$700 to have the dealer guess at the problem. Sometimes it can be the BCM but most of the time it's just worn out cylinder.

To bypass it I do this....
1st, cut the yellow PK wire. Take a meter and put one lead on the cut end of the yellow wire GOING TO the ignition and the other lead to the ground reference wire of the PK system. It's usually the black or orange/black wire. I turn the key, put the car in gear then completely crank it over. Then you'll see the resistance amount. I then get a resistor or a few resistors so that I get as close to that resistance as possible. Then I take the other end of the cut wire, connect the resistor to that end and the other end of the resistor to the ground reference wire.

Then you should be good to go. If you can't get the resistance right, you can just pick just about any resistance then make the car learn it like GM techs do when they replace your ignition.

There's no need for a switch. This is a perminant fix.

That's good info... thanks very much for mentioning this. And yes, I've heard that GM tries to say that people hang heavy objects on their keys, and thus weras the cylinder prematurely. Some of that is indeed true, but it certainly does not apply to everyone who has Passlock problems.

I have about 8 months left on my extended warranty. I hope Passlock goes while I'm under warranty; but it probably wont. I don't have anything heavy on the key... only the remote control.
I also hope that my LIM goes too; I'd like that fixed too while I'm under warranty. Anyone know how I can "speed it up" ????

Hey.. I paid a lot of $$$ for the warranty; I want to get something out of it !!! (the car is a 2000 GT1) (previous owner is 77 years old; I am 52) (the car is in immaculate shape and is all Pontiac 100% stock)

Not bragging, but it has been extremely well taken care of.. so that's why I want to speed up those fixes...

Thanks friends !!

I just tried it myself and after three starts, it seems to work as well.

I have a 2001 Grand AM SE and had just a little bit of trouble finding the right wires at first. When I opened up the console and removed my radio, I saw two bundles of wires. I opened them both up and found only one yellow wire, but it was much larger than I had expected. I dug around and found the small bundle of wires that contained the three smaller wires that were referred to. There wasn't much slack, but I was able to gain access to them with a needle nose pliers.

I had a moment of panic after I put it all back together and started the car. None of my gages worked! No RPMs, speedometer, radio, gas... nothing worked! As I started to turn my key to turn it off again, the gages popped back to life. I found the problem was with the "cap" that goes around the ignition that reads OFF/ACC/ON/START wasn't snapped in tight. This "cap" pops off when you remove the console and apparently I didn't snap it on securely when I reassembled everything. Just a firm snap and all is well again. Whew!

I was very nervous about cutting wires inside my car, but I was so desperate to get rid of this problem, I had no choice. There's nothing worse than being stranded inside a disabled car in the middle of a Minnesota winter where the air temperature is 15 degrees below zero. All in all - an easy fix!

Sorry tafkap777 but we dont need to bring up threads older then 3 months as outlined in the Community Participation Guidelines(ULA).

This is CLOSED!