cpi/nut kit

i know what the cpi is but what 's the nut kit ?

The two internal fuel lines that attach to the cpi and to the drivers side back of the intake.

Don't forget that is you are goint to change out the CPI and Nut kit, to get a new gasket for the penulum.

Skeeter6755

yip, what he said. ^^^^^

thanks fellas, haven't had the pleasure of changing that yet, but i keep seeing topics about it and wasn't sure what it was.

also, here is my experience with the CPI and injector.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113559&highlight=cpi+replacement

I've seen multiples threads on the CPI and Nut Kit. I've been able to locate the CPI at autozone, but am having a hard time locating the Nut Kit/fuel lines. Does anyone know of a OEM part number to reference against?

Here is my problem. 94 s10 blazer 4x4 vin w. Hard starting and rough idle (idle has degraded to point of stalling). Fuel pump, strainer, filter replaced. Looked inside Plenum and some "washing" appears to be occuring.

I've seen multiples threads on the CPI and Nut Kit. I've been able to locate the CPI at autozone, but am having a hard time locating the Nut Kit/fuel lines. Does anyone know of a OEM part number to reference against?

Here is my problem. 94 s10 blazer 4x4 vin w. Hard starting and rough idle (idle has degraded to point of stalling). Fuel pump, strainer, filter replaced. Looked inside Plenum and some "washing" appears to be occuring.

The nutkit is a GM only part. Just go into any dealer to their parts counter and tell them your year, engine and that you want a nutkit for in the plenum.

If your washing, you have problems. Passenger side = regulator : Driver's side = nutkit. Sounds like you will be doing the CPI and the nutkit.

Thanks... I may have found at a AC Delco parts store 17112705 and CPI OEM 17113165.

In reading through various posts it came highly recommended to replace both, so that is the my current plan... as well as plugs for possible fouling.

I hope this is the "only" issue as it sounds like a number of folks have had this same issue and more. The only other thing that sounded weird was the IAC idle air control valve... but I believe this to be a symtom of the CPI/leak issues.

Best to remove and clean the IAC valve when you are doing all of this.

It gets carboned up.

Best all around deal I found was for new GM parts at www.rockauto.com for the CPI, nut kit, and gasket.

Thanks for the information, but I have already picked them up from Autozone and ACDelco parts supplier. I hope to get it changed this evening.

One thing to watch for. There is a torx head bolt on the rear of the engine that holds the "nut kit" fuel lines in place. This was extremely tight and hard to access on mine. Be sure to have a perfect fitting torx bit and use caution, don't mess up the head.

Also, clean the EGR passage when you have the upper plenum cover off. It will be the one right near the intake butterfly that will be choked full of carbon.

I cleaned the EGR passageway in the upper plenum last night. I bought a gasket today for the EGR valve, so I plan on taking it out and cleaning carbon deposits around the valve (recommendations for or against?). My plenum looked similar to BlazerLT's thread on S10.

Blazer, I see your recommendation to remove and clean the IAC. Is there any concern with removing the IAC as a potential vacuum loss path or does reassembly close it up good enough?

Thanks for the TORX comment, I will have to double check I've got the right one.

I would definitely clean the EGR.

The IAC valve can sometimes get gummed up with carbon which will hinder it from moving and operating properly.

Don't adjust it, just clean and reinstall.

Cleaned EGR valve, but it wasn't that bad/dirty as compared to deposits in the plenum. Cleaned it off and re-installed w/ new gasket. Poppet valve floated smoothly.

IAC looked pretty clean, but gave it a cleaning anyways... this valve doesn't actuacte, all I could do was push it in for reinstallation, not sure if this normal?

CPI/Nut Kit installed... but had a fuel leak. I gouged the new nut kit on installation. $60 and 1 hour down the drain. Also, nut kit torx screw is a bear... I didn't have a small enough wrench to get back there with the torx bit through various adapters, so there was alot of cussing involved.

Hope to get new nut kit soon. I wish I would of left this one alone as the leak was from the CPI, and not the nut kit. Food for thought for those looking to take on this job... leave well enough alone or be very gentle w/ the nut kit installation (especially the supply line as the intake has a sharp edge where the counter-sink transitions into the countour of the manifold).

The nut kit torx is easy to remove with a small rachet and a bit adapter. I got it out in about 15 seconds.

The nut kit is best to be replaced when you do the injector. You are doing the right thing.

Also, hope you installed a new upper plenum gasket.