H22a Civic Swap Guide
CivicSpoon
12-14-2004, 10:54 PM
This is all the info I know on this subject as well as information I have found around the net (mostly wiring). If you have any questions or information to add to this thread, please feel free to do so. And if anyone has more info on the '96-'00 part of this swap (especially wiring), it'd be a great help. Hope this helps to inform a lot of people. Thanks to MiataRacer for letting me do this, and looking over my big mistakes (or should I say lengthy mistakes :biggrin:). Here we go:
For the most part all of this information pertains to any H-series and any F-series (with exception of the F20c S2000 motor) swap into a Civic.
The myths and truths about the Civic H22a swap. Some have said this motor is too big to fit, you need to move or cut the firewall, and the motor weighs any where from 180-220lbs more than a B-series. In a '92-'00 Civic (and in general, respectively) none of this information is true. First the motor is only slightly larger in size compared to the B-series motors. Next, the big myth of the massive weight everyone hears about. Does the motor weigh more than the D's and B's? Yes, it absolutely does. However, there is only a difference of 35-50lbs. Here is a link of someone who was nice enough to actually weight an h22a, b16a, and a d16: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=684550 Now you may be thinking, "well he didn't weigh the heads or intake manifolds, so how do you figure it doesn't weigh a lot more than just 35-50lbs?" Well. The answer is that it's quite obvious that an engine's head will weigh less than its short block. So if the short block of an H22a weighs only 19lbs more than the B16a short block, then you have to figure the heads will be of a similar weight difference. Now I will cover the under steer issue. The extra weight of the H22a is not enough to cause under steer. Think about how much a turbo manifold, turbo, waste gate, and any other bolt-on that adds weight to a motor; will all be weight in addition to a B-series swap. After it's all done, you'll be adding a decent amount of weight to the motor. Now it might not come out to 35-50lbs, but its still weight. Now is the weight considerable enough to create under steer on your car? No, it's not enough to cause a problem. Now think about maybe 10-20lbs more and it will be comparable to the H22a's weight. However, the added weight of the motor (along with tilt) can in fact cause camber and toe problems on the front. That is one reason you will need to get better springs and shocks, or coilovers when you do this swap. The occurrence of under steer comes from the way the motor is tilted. Because of the motor being tilted back slightly, the weight of the motor becomes improperly balanced.
Now to the info on the swap. This swap is not a straightforward swap such as with a D-series or B-series motor. Don't let the price of the "complete swap" fool you, there is more involved. Prepare to spend around $4,000 or upwards of $5,000 for all parts and possibly some extras thrown in. The mounts and axles you get with a complete swap will not work with this application. For mounts, you will need to buy from an aftermarket company. There are a few companies that sell these mounts; Hasport, HCP Engineering, Place Racing (now out of business, or possibly back in business yet again), Enjo, and E-bay mounts. When considering mounts think of it this way; is the cheaper cost of E-bay or no-name mounts worth risking your life for? There have been many instances of people reporting online that their cheap e-bay mounts have broken, some even within the first week or even the first day. There have also been many accounts of problems with the fitment of enjo and place racing mounts. After 3 years of researching this swap, I have yet to hear a completely satisfied custom of either of those 2 companies. Though I will say I have no personal knowledge of either of these companies’ products, because I have yet to meet anyone who used them after reading reviews. So that leaves Hasport and HCP as very reputable companies as a source of mounts. Of course Hasport is a legend when it comes to mount kits. HCP is also a very good company, and many people aren't aware but they have a partnership with Energy Suspension who supplies them with their mount bushings. The one negative thing I can say about HCP is that their rear mount bushings have a tendency to tear and need to be replaced after a while. Other than this problem, their mounts are great. When putting in the mounts, I cannot stress enough to read the instructions that come with the mounts; when figuring out the order of bolting down the mounts. When I helped my friend put an H22a in his '95 Civic, he bolted them in the wrong order and they would not fit properly. After starting the process over again and reading the instructions, they went in fine and fit perfectly. Also an important point here is that you will need a rear tranny bracket from a USDM '92-'96 Prelude. Now moving onto axles. There are a couple axle combinations with will work with this motor. You can use a '90-'93 Accord intermediate shaft and '90-'93 Integra axles. Another choice is using the '92-'96 Prelude intermediate shaft with a '90-'93 Integra passenger side axle, and a '88-'89 Integra drivers side w/a '92-'96 Prelude inner joint converted on that axle. There are also a few companies that make axles specifically for this swap, so if you have the $; go for it.
Now lets talk about some cutting. With HCP mounts if you look at the mount bracket attached to the engine bay, on the tranny side; you will see a little hole behind the larger hole. You will need to drill this hole out big enough to put the mount bolt thru it, because this is where your new mount will attach. Next you will need to cut that mount bracket straight along the line of the inner edge of the original hole. Here is a pic to show where you need to cut, and how much: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/CivicSpoon/trannymount.jpg It doesn't need to be cut exactly to this extent, just enough to clear the shifter and the transmission. For Hasport mounts, you will need to cut the entire tranny mount bracket off; it comes with a new mount bracket to use. Now you're done with the cutting in the engine bay, now moving onto the cabin of the car. You will need to remove the center console (around shifter, cup holder, and e-brake) and the carpet around the area (temporary). You will now need to cut 2 holes. One toward the front for the cables and the other to make the shifter hole bigger. Here is a link of where you need to cut the holes and how big they need to be cut: http://h22hybrid.20m.com/photo6.html <-Great site BTW.
Next is some wiring. You will need to wire up a resistor box for the injectors. For wiring of these you will need to check out this link: http://www.hondata.com/techinjectorwiring.html Now for the wiring harness. You've got 2 options when it comes to wiring. The first and easiest would be to send out your engine harness to Hasport or HCP; and have them do all the wiring for you. Of course this costs more $ to do, around $300-350. But if you choose to do it yourself here is some info that should help. You will need to extend some wires from your existing harness. These are the Starter solenoid and alternator. You will have to wire up the H22a reverse light plug, just match the wires up by color. Then you need to add some wires to the ECU. Here are the wires you need to add:
A4 VTEC Solenoid - green/yellow
A11 EGR Control Solenoid - red2
A17 IAB Solenoid Valve (Signal) - pink
A19 Intake Control Solenoid Valve - white
A20 EVAP Purge Control Solenoid - red/green
A25 IAB Solenoid Sensor Voltage/EGR Lift Sensor+Solenoid, Sensor Voltage - yellow/black
A26 VTEC Pressure Switch Ground - black/red
D3 Knock Sensor - red/blue
D6 VTEC Pressure Switch - light blue or light green
D12 EGR Valve Lift Sensor (Signal) - white/black
D19 EGR Valve Lift Sensor 5V (Shares w/MAP) - red/white
(Thanks to Hondata.com and AcesHigh for the pinouts to figure this out. For AcesHigh's pinout look here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t211027.html)
Other info:
-The '96 JDM H22a is in fact still an OBD-1 motor. As far as I know this is the only OBD-1 motor Honda made in '96.
-When hooking up the throttle cable, you will need to flip the throttle cable bracket upside down.
-If you're swapping this into a '92-'95 CX or VX, then you will need to convert the O2 sensor over to a 4-wire O2. Here is how you would go about doing this: http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/ *Correction* - Only some CX's have the 1-wire O2 Sensor, my '94 actually has a 4-wire.
-You'll need to buy a longer fuel line, a Del Sol VTEC lower radiator hose, a '92-'93 Integra LS upper radiator hose, thinner fan (highly recommended), and a better radiator is recommended (a dual core Del Sol radiator will work well).
-You will also need better springs and shocks (or coilovers) with a stiffer spring rate. This will help greatly with under steer and uneven tire wear from the little added weight of the motor. This should be considered part of the swap and not just an option.
-Also some good extras are a full bushing kit, traction bar, and other suspension add-ons. These will help with under steer as well as help get the newly found power to the ground.
-If you're swapping this in a economy car such as the CX or VX, then you will need to get a better fuel pump also. The stock fuel pumps will not be enough for the much bigger motor. *Correction* - All '92-'95 Civics have the same fuel pump, they all share the same part # (17040-SR1-A31).
Edit - Fixed some wording errors
For the most part all of this information pertains to any H-series and any F-series (with exception of the F20c S2000 motor) swap into a Civic.
The myths and truths about the Civic H22a swap. Some have said this motor is too big to fit, you need to move or cut the firewall, and the motor weighs any where from 180-220lbs more than a B-series. In a '92-'00 Civic (and in general, respectively) none of this information is true. First the motor is only slightly larger in size compared to the B-series motors. Next, the big myth of the massive weight everyone hears about. Does the motor weigh more than the D's and B's? Yes, it absolutely does. However, there is only a difference of 35-50lbs. Here is a link of someone who was nice enough to actually weight an h22a, b16a, and a d16: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=684550 Now you may be thinking, "well he didn't weigh the heads or intake manifolds, so how do you figure it doesn't weigh a lot more than just 35-50lbs?" Well. The answer is that it's quite obvious that an engine's head will weigh less than its short block. So if the short block of an H22a weighs only 19lbs more than the B16a short block, then you have to figure the heads will be of a similar weight difference. Now I will cover the under steer issue. The extra weight of the H22a is not enough to cause under steer. Think about how much a turbo manifold, turbo, waste gate, and any other bolt-on that adds weight to a motor; will all be weight in addition to a B-series swap. After it's all done, you'll be adding a decent amount of weight to the motor. Now it might not come out to 35-50lbs, but its still weight. Now is the weight considerable enough to create under steer on your car? No, it's not enough to cause a problem. Now think about maybe 10-20lbs more and it will be comparable to the H22a's weight. However, the added weight of the motor (along with tilt) can in fact cause camber and toe problems on the front. That is one reason you will need to get better springs and shocks, or coilovers when you do this swap. The occurrence of under steer comes from the way the motor is tilted. Because of the motor being tilted back slightly, the weight of the motor becomes improperly balanced.
Now to the info on the swap. This swap is not a straightforward swap such as with a D-series or B-series motor. Don't let the price of the "complete swap" fool you, there is more involved. Prepare to spend around $4,000 or upwards of $5,000 for all parts and possibly some extras thrown in. The mounts and axles you get with a complete swap will not work with this application. For mounts, you will need to buy from an aftermarket company. There are a few companies that sell these mounts; Hasport, HCP Engineering, Place Racing (now out of business, or possibly back in business yet again), Enjo, and E-bay mounts. When considering mounts think of it this way; is the cheaper cost of E-bay or no-name mounts worth risking your life for? There have been many instances of people reporting online that their cheap e-bay mounts have broken, some even within the first week or even the first day. There have also been many accounts of problems with the fitment of enjo and place racing mounts. After 3 years of researching this swap, I have yet to hear a completely satisfied custom of either of those 2 companies. Though I will say I have no personal knowledge of either of these companies’ products, because I have yet to meet anyone who used them after reading reviews. So that leaves Hasport and HCP as very reputable companies as a source of mounts. Of course Hasport is a legend when it comes to mount kits. HCP is also a very good company, and many people aren't aware but they have a partnership with Energy Suspension who supplies them with their mount bushings. The one negative thing I can say about HCP is that their rear mount bushings have a tendency to tear and need to be replaced after a while. Other than this problem, their mounts are great. When putting in the mounts, I cannot stress enough to read the instructions that come with the mounts; when figuring out the order of bolting down the mounts. When I helped my friend put an H22a in his '95 Civic, he bolted them in the wrong order and they would not fit properly. After starting the process over again and reading the instructions, they went in fine and fit perfectly. Also an important point here is that you will need a rear tranny bracket from a USDM '92-'96 Prelude. Now moving onto axles. There are a couple axle combinations with will work with this motor. You can use a '90-'93 Accord intermediate shaft and '90-'93 Integra axles. Another choice is using the '92-'96 Prelude intermediate shaft with a '90-'93 Integra passenger side axle, and a '88-'89 Integra drivers side w/a '92-'96 Prelude inner joint converted on that axle. There are also a few companies that make axles specifically for this swap, so if you have the $; go for it.
Now lets talk about some cutting. With HCP mounts if you look at the mount bracket attached to the engine bay, on the tranny side; you will see a little hole behind the larger hole. You will need to drill this hole out big enough to put the mount bolt thru it, because this is where your new mount will attach. Next you will need to cut that mount bracket straight along the line of the inner edge of the original hole. Here is a pic to show where you need to cut, and how much: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/CivicSpoon/trannymount.jpg It doesn't need to be cut exactly to this extent, just enough to clear the shifter and the transmission. For Hasport mounts, you will need to cut the entire tranny mount bracket off; it comes with a new mount bracket to use. Now you're done with the cutting in the engine bay, now moving onto the cabin of the car. You will need to remove the center console (around shifter, cup holder, and e-brake) and the carpet around the area (temporary). You will now need to cut 2 holes. One toward the front for the cables and the other to make the shifter hole bigger. Here is a link of where you need to cut the holes and how big they need to be cut: http://h22hybrid.20m.com/photo6.html <-Great site BTW.
Next is some wiring. You will need to wire up a resistor box for the injectors. For wiring of these you will need to check out this link: http://www.hondata.com/techinjectorwiring.html Now for the wiring harness. You've got 2 options when it comes to wiring. The first and easiest would be to send out your engine harness to Hasport or HCP; and have them do all the wiring for you. Of course this costs more $ to do, around $300-350. But if you choose to do it yourself here is some info that should help. You will need to extend some wires from your existing harness. These are the Starter solenoid and alternator. You will have to wire up the H22a reverse light plug, just match the wires up by color. Then you need to add some wires to the ECU. Here are the wires you need to add:
A4 VTEC Solenoid - green/yellow
A11 EGR Control Solenoid - red2
A17 IAB Solenoid Valve (Signal) - pink
A19 Intake Control Solenoid Valve - white
A20 EVAP Purge Control Solenoid - red/green
A25 IAB Solenoid Sensor Voltage/EGR Lift Sensor+Solenoid, Sensor Voltage - yellow/black
A26 VTEC Pressure Switch Ground - black/red
D3 Knock Sensor - red/blue
D6 VTEC Pressure Switch - light blue or light green
D12 EGR Valve Lift Sensor (Signal) - white/black
D19 EGR Valve Lift Sensor 5V (Shares w/MAP) - red/white
(Thanks to Hondata.com and AcesHigh for the pinouts to figure this out. For AcesHigh's pinout look here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t211027.html)
Other info:
-The '96 JDM H22a is in fact still an OBD-1 motor. As far as I know this is the only OBD-1 motor Honda made in '96.
-When hooking up the throttle cable, you will need to flip the throttle cable bracket upside down.
-If you're swapping this into a '92-'95 CX or VX, then you will need to convert the O2 sensor over to a 4-wire O2. Here is how you would go about doing this: http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/ *Correction* - Only some CX's have the 1-wire O2 Sensor, my '94 actually has a 4-wire.
-You'll need to buy a longer fuel line, a Del Sol VTEC lower radiator hose, a '92-'93 Integra LS upper radiator hose, thinner fan (highly recommended), and a better radiator is recommended (a dual core Del Sol radiator will work well).
-You will also need better springs and shocks (or coilovers) with a stiffer spring rate. This will help greatly with under steer and uneven tire wear from the little added weight of the motor. This should be considered part of the swap and not just an option.
-Also some good extras are a full bushing kit, traction bar, and other suspension add-ons. These will help with under steer as well as help get the newly found power to the ground.
-If you're swapping this in a economy car such as the CX or VX, then you will need to get a better fuel pump also. The stock fuel pumps will not be enough for the much bigger motor. *Correction* - All '92-'95 Civics have the same fuel pump, they all share the same part # (17040-SR1-A31).
Edit - Fixed some wording errors
Miataracer
12-14-2004, 11:10 PM
Thank you CivicSpoon for taking the time out to make this thread. I hope that it will help people to understand more of what is involved with the H22 swap into the Civic.
If anyone has any additional info about the swap to add to this thread please feel free to do so.
**This is the one and only warning for this thread, flaming and off topic posts will not be tolerated.**
If anyone has any additional info about the swap to add to this thread please feel free to do so.
**This is the one and only warning for this thread, flaming and off topic posts will not be tolerated.**
cjcivic
01-29-2005, 09:19 PM
i was wondering if it is possible to have my power steering and a/c stay after i do the h22a swap on my civic.
CivicSpoon
01-29-2005, 09:31 PM
I believe it depends on which mount kit you get, in regards for the A/C. But for power steering; you need a '97+ PS pump and bracket as wells as a high pressure line that will fit the 2 different ends (1 to fit prelude pump and 1 to fit civic end).
cjcivic
01-31-2005, 08:23 PM
is there alot of work involved with modifying the wiring harnesses to install the h22 motor? if so how mcuh and does anyone have a wiring diagram for it?
CivicSpoon
01-31-2005, 08:45 PM
You can send out your harness to hasport, HCP, or Place Racing. It should cost around $300, you'll also need to send out your existing harness; so it will cost you shipping to and back.
Otherwise you can do it yourself with the H22a pinout link above and compare it to the pinout for your existing car. Here's a pinout for the b16a to compare it to: http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Wring/VTEC_ECU_comparison.htm (mostly the same as your existing pinout)
Otherwise you can do it yourself with the H22a pinout link above and compare it to the pinout for your existing car. Here's a pinout for the b16a to compare it to: http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Wring/VTEC_ECU_comparison.htm (mostly the same as your existing pinout)
94civicHBsi
02-02-2005, 04:24 PM
thank you for all the imput you all! i really have been considering doing this swap! if you can think of any other information that will help please let me know!
Skunk2R
02-02-2005, 06:43 PM
For about 3,500
Japan-specifications
H22A-S (JDM)
5-Speed Manual Hydraulic Transmission
ECU
Distributor
Intake Manifold
Exhaust Manifold
Alternator
Air Conditioning Pump
Power Steering Pump
Vtec Solenoid
Half Shaft
-10,000-20,000 miles
-2157cc (DOHC VTEC)
-Horsepower: 223hp@7200rpm
-Torque: 163lbs-ft@6500rpm
-Compression: 11.0:1
-Bore: 87mm
-Stroke: 90.7mm
-OBD: 2
Japan-specifications
H22A-S (JDM)
5-Speed Manual Hydraulic Transmission
ECU
Distributor
Intake Manifold
Exhaust Manifold
Alternator
Air Conditioning Pump
Power Steering Pump
Vtec Solenoid
Half Shaft
-10,000-20,000 miles
-2157cc (DOHC VTEC)
-Horsepower: 223hp@7200rpm
-Torque: 163lbs-ft@6500rpm
-Compression: 11.0:1
-Bore: 87mm
-Stroke: 90.7mm
-OBD: 2
CivicSpoon
02-02-2005, 07:15 PM
For about 3,500 But that's not including the mounts, axles, suspension, and odds and ends you will need to do the swap. Also cutting (possibly welding) and wiring.
Skunk2R
02-03-2005, 09:37 PM
damn...you know fuck it...im just gonna buy a cheap b16 or b18 and just do that till i save up enough money, hah
Uneek4L
03-15-2005, 09:03 PM
damn...you know fuck it...im just gonna buy a cheap b16 or b18 and just do that till i save up enough money, hah
You can get jdm h22 wid lsd tranni and computer for 2000... plus anotehr like 300 to ship.... If your going to pay 3500 for th emotor you might as well just go k20...
You can get jdm h22 wid lsd tranni and computer for 2000... plus anotehr like 300 to ship.... If your going to pay 3500 for th emotor you might as well just go k20...
CivicSpoon
03-17-2005, 08:17 PM
You can get jdm h22 wid lsd tranni and computer for 2000... plus anotehr like 300 to ship.... If your going to pay 3500 for th emotor you might as well just go k20...
It'd still be a lot more than $3,500 to get a K-series into a civic.
It'd still be a lot more than $3,500 to get a K-series into a civic.
Toke138
03-31-2005, 02:59 AM
Miataracer, nice fc3s!
*fap* *fap* *fap*
/me wants one.
*fap* *fap* *fap*
/me wants one.
ZedEx
07-11-2005, 05:11 PM
We just dropped an H22A into our Project Hatchback... I'll post pictures up soon. The motor is AMAZING.
We purchased the powertrain for $2,000. That was for the entire swap, we just had to purchase the mounts from Hasport.
The only problems that we encountered was that we had to purchase a lower-profile radiator fan. The stock fan shrowd was making too much contact with the block. The wiring was quite simple, just follow the instructions, and it all works out fine.
The swap wasn't hard at all, difficulty wise, it was no harded than the GSR swap we did into our 1999 Civic EX.
I would highly recommend the H-Series swap to anyone who's looking to get some high power.
-Wes
We purchased the powertrain for $2,000. That was for the entire swap, we just had to purchase the mounts from Hasport.
The only problems that we encountered was that we had to purchase a lower-profile radiator fan. The stock fan shrowd was making too much contact with the block. The wiring was quite simple, just follow the instructions, and it all works out fine.
The swap wasn't hard at all, difficulty wise, it was no harded than the GSR swap we did into our 1999 Civic EX.
I would highly recommend the H-Series swap to anyone who's looking to get some high power.
-Wes
CivicSpoon
07-11-2005, 05:36 PM
The wiring was quite simple, just follow the instructions, and it all works out fine.
Do you by chance have a copy of the wiring? I want to make sure that the wiring I gave above is correct (I'd feel horrible if someone used what I wrote and it was wrong).
Do you by chance have a copy of the wiring? I want to make sure that the wiring I gave above is correct (I'd feel horrible if someone used what I wrote and it was wrong).
ZedEx
07-12-2005, 02:46 PM
I'm sure I can dig it up... Your's looks to be correct though. I'll post it up in a bit if I can find it.
-Wes
-Wes
ZedEx
07-18-2005, 08:42 PM
Here are some pictures of the H22A in our '94 Civic Hatchback. More upon request. Enjoy.
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7111/briansenginebay5to.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/123/h22enginebayintake7xr.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/9771/h22enginebayscott5ad.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/1593/h22enginebaywide0ds.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/2845/h22dohcvtec3sg.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/9814/brianscivicslicksside9ev.jpg
I've got some video coming as well. Stay tuned.
-Wes
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7111/briansenginebay5to.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/123/h22enginebayintake7xr.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/9771/h22enginebayscott5ad.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/1593/h22enginebaywide0ds.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/2845/h22dohcvtec3sg.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/9814/brianscivicslicksside9ev.jpg
I've got some video coming as well. Stay tuned.
-Wes
ZedEx
07-18-2005, 09:13 PM
Alright, here are some videos.
Brian's burnout (http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=F0D9581C-DAC4-4AB1-B77C-1430EFC2D40E)
Brian's run. Running against Miles' GSR powered 1999 Civic EX. Brian broke into the 13's here (13.97) (http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=22990BEC-88C0-46E9-915D-D0A2F6A3D01C)
This one is long... Brian versus Ryan's Eclipse GS-X (tuned quite highly). Towards the end, you should get a good idea of how well these cars pick up (http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=00C77C56-3705-4D08-A60C-F9DCC0C2B167) :D
Note, these video's aren't really recent... A few weeks old. The car was untuned, running on an Ebay header (Came with the swap) and a short tube intake that was sucking nothing but hot air.
Since then, we've tuned it, got a much better header, and fabricated an AEM CAI to fit. The car runs MUCH better now.
Anyway, the videos may still be getting optimized by StreetFire (www.streetfire.net), so just keep checking back every hour or so.
The videos are DEFINATELY worth watching.
-Wes
Brian's burnout (http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=F0D9581C-DAC4-4AB1-B77C-1430EFC2D40E)
Brian's run. Running against Miles' GSR powered 1999 Civic EX. Brian broke into the 13's here (13.97) (http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=22990BEC-88C0-46E9-915D-D0A2F6A3D01C)
This one is long... Brian versus Ryan's Eclipse GS-X (tuned quite highly). Towards the end, you should get a good idea of how well these cars pick up (http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=00C77C56-3705-4D08-A60C-F9DCC0C2B167) :D
Note, these video's aren't really recent... A few weeks old. The car was untuned, running on an Ebay header (Came with the swap) and a short tube intake that was sucking nothing but hot air.
Since then, we've tuned it, got a much better header, and fabricated an AEM CAI to fit. The car runs MUCH better now.
Anyway, the videos may still be getting optimized by StreetFire (www.streetfire.net), so just keep checking back every hour or so.
The videos are DEFINATELY worth watching.
-Wes
ZedEx
08-21-2005, 11:40 AM
Well... Another H22 Swap :evillol:
The Twins...
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/5963/twinh221fg.jpg
Brian Walker, the owner of the White Hatchback... And the swap master Scott Walker in the background.
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/2954/twinh22brian9gz.jpg
Mmmmm... Makes me want an H22 :lol:
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/4259/twinh22shotmiles9qr.jpg
The White Hatchback is getting a Pro-Speed Header (Yeah... Spent about $600 on that), SKUNK2 Camshafts, AEBS Intake Manifold, and some Jungle Juice :)
The Silver Coupe is getting Boosted... This should be good.
In case you don't recognize the Silver Coupe. Watch the videos above when it had a GSR power train. Turns out Import Auto Salvage doesn't compression test Shit before they sell it to you. We got out money back, and went else where, for something better.
Anyway, here's a video or two... I'll have more soon.
The newest H22 addition to the Carolina Fried Rice... (http://videos.streetfire.net/player.aspx?fileid=36259484-F0DF-44BC-9DD7-CA73C6F8DA70)
-Wes
The Twins...
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/5963/twinh221fg.jpg
Brian Walker, the owner of the White Hatchback... And the swap master Scott Walker in the background.
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/2954/twinh22brian9gz.jpg
Mmmmm... Makes me want an H22 :lol:
http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/4259/twinh22shotmiles9qr.jpg
The White Hatchback is getting a Pro-Speed Header (Yeah... Spent about $600 on that), SKUNK2 Camshafts, AEBS Intake Manifold, and some Jungle Juice :)
The Silver Coupe is getting Boosted... This should be good.
In case you don't recognize the Silver Coupe. Watch the videos above when it had a GSR power train. Turns out Import Auto Salvage doesn't compression test Shit before they sell it to you. We got out money back, and went else where, for something better.
Anyway, here's a video or two... I'll have more soon.
The newest H22 addition to the Carolina Fried Rice... (http://videos.streetfire.net/player.aspx?fileid=36259484-F0DF-44BC-9DD7-CA73C6F8DA70)
-Wes
CivicSpoon
08-21-2005, 11:21 PM
Very nice setups. And they are insane when you turbocharge them, they just scream with power.
ZedEx
10-05-2005, 09:24 PM
Got some update pictures on the Silver Car...
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/4691/milesenginebayintake8hd.jpg
http://img349.imageshack.us/img349/3866/milesenginebaywide8bj.jpg
And we've got ANOTHER H22 swap on the way... Stay tuned :)
-Wes
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/4691/milesenginebayintake8hd.jpg
http://img349.imageshack.us/img349/3866/milesenginebaywide8bj.jpg
And we've got ANOTHER H22 swap on the way... Stay tuned :)
-Wes
ucantfadebee
11-22-2005, 08:49 AM
ive got a civic that i got from a cuzin of mys b4 he took off for the war but yea anyways his car he his a 93 h/b cx with a h22a1 in there now he told me about dfi and everything but i dont know shit about it when i call people people told me is old and i spent about 2g on nothing just having people look for ecu and wirehass for me if anyone got it can they pls help me
CivicSpoon
11-22-2005, 12:03 PM
ive got a civic that i got from a cuzin of mys b4 he took off for the war but yea anyways his car he his a 93 h/b cx with a h22a1 in there now he told me about dfi and everything but i dont know shit about it when i call people people told me is old and i spent about 2g on nothing just having people look for ecu and wirehass for me if anyone got it can they pls help me
I have no clue what you're asking.
I have no clue what you're asking.
ZedEx
04-08-2006, 09:27 PM
... *ackward silence* ...
What?
-Wes
What?
-Wes
93CivicSiD16HB
05-23-2006, 01:24 AM
I was originally going to put a K-Series in my 00' SI but i see the gains in HP AND Torque are much higher in the H-Series, Plus I suppose I'd opt for a base model being it as a lower compression for boost. (and it's cheaper by quite a bit)
I just have a few questions
1. What would be reasoning for choosing a K over an H Series Engine?
2. I know the engine doesnt weigh as much as people say, but what about even with a fully mounted turbo/cooler, and maybe forged internals? (I dont know the power tolerances of an H22)
3. Are there suspension setups FOR this swap? If not what are some setups or configurations that seem to do well for less stress on the tires?
4. Does the base have a true VTEC setup? I know the base RSX k20A3 has more of a vtec-e setup than the type-s, and want to make sure with the h-series that its the real deal.
5. I believe it depends on which mount kit you get, in regards for the A/C. But for power steering; you need a '97+ PS pump and bracket as wells as a high pressure line that will fit the 2 different ends (1 to fit prelude pump and 1 to fit civic end).
I would be buying this engine from Hmotorsonline.com, it comes with an option hasport kit and it will be the 92-95 base model: http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30016
And was wondering if it might have the right setup for the a/c and where i could get a '97+ PS pump and bracket as wells as a high pressure line,unless i need a different piece because its a 92-95 model not the '97+?
And does anyone have a rough total cost for the swap, just inlcuding the engine, mounting, and suspension? I'm still deciding on this or the K..
Also ZedEx, i notice you installs are very clean, what mounting kits do you use, and for all H swaps is it really noticable that its tilted or does it always look like that?
I just have a few questions
1. What would be reasoning for choosing a K over an H Series Engine?
2. I know the engine doesnt weigh as much as people say, but what about even with a fully mounted turbo/cooler, and maybe forged internals? (I dont know the power tolerances of an H22)
3. Are there suspension setups FOR this swap? If not what are some setups or configurations that seem to do well for less stress on the tires?
4. Does the base have a true VTEC setup? I know the base RSX k20A3 has more of a vtec-e setup than the type-s, and want to make sure with the h-series that its the real deal.
5. I believe it depends on which mount kit you get, in regards for the A/C. But for power steering; you need a '97+ PS pump and bracket as wells as a high pressure line that will fit the 2 different ends (1 to fit prelude pump and 1 to fit civic end).
I would be buying this engine from Hmotorsonline.com, it comes with an option hasport kit and it will be the 92-95 base model: http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30016
And was wondering if it might have the right setup for the a/c and where i could get a '97+ PS pump and bracket as wells as a high pressure line,unless i need a different piece because its a 92-95 model not the '97+?
And does anyone have a rough total cost for the swap, just inlcuding the engine, mounting, and suspension? I'm still deciding on this or the K..
Also ZedEx, i notice you installs are very clean, what mounting kits do you use, and for all H swaps is it really noticable that its tilted or does it always look like that?
CivicSpoon
05-23-2006, 11:36 AM
1) People say that the K-series engines are more responsive to modifications than the older engines. But that's a question better asked of a person who has done a K-series swap. I personally would go H over K, because of price alone.
2) Weight shouldn't be an issue. With an H22a swap and full turbo kit, you might lose a .1 off your ¼ mile time from weight; but I doubt you'd even lose that. It's not like you're adding 100's of lbs in parts to it.
3) I know Progress sells springs specifically for this swap. My friend just bought some, but hasn't reinstalled his engine yet so I don't know how well they work. Any good stiffer suspension setup should be fine, as long as it doesn't lower the car 2"s or more (you'd risk breaking axles by being any lower).
4) Not sure what you mean here. What do you mean by "base"? Cause the base Prelude engine is an H23 non-vtec engine, if that's what you're asking. But the H22a is real vtec, same as the B-series vtec.
5) I honestly don't remember the info I found on A/C, as all the info should be bookmarked on my currently dead computer. But you can find the P/S pump and bracket from a junkyard, straight from honda, classified forums; the usual places to find parts. And you do need the '97+ pump, because that's what works with the H22a. For high pressure lines, you need to find a place that can make them for you. Try a local place for the cheapest prices, or search around online.
The swap could be done anywhere from $3,500-$5000+. It depends on what parts you buy. Search around for the best prices and shop that way.
For the tilt, look at the first pic on this page that ZedEX posted. Notice the back and front of the engine in correlation to the strut bar. c
2) Weight shouldn't be an issue. With an H22a swap and full turbo kit, you might lose a .1 off your ¼ mile time from weight; but I doubt you'd even lose that. It's not like you're adding 100's of lbs in parts to it.
3) I know Progress sells springs specifically for this swap. My friend just bought some, but hasn't reinstalled his engine yet so I don't know how well they work. Any good stiffer suspension setup should be fine, as long as it doesn't lower the car 2"s or more (you'd risk breaking axles by being any lower).
4) Not sure what you mean here. What do you mean by "base"? Cause the base Prelude engine is an H23 non-vtec engine, if that's what you're asking. But the H22a is real vtec, same as the B-series vtec.
5) I honestly don't remember the info I found on A/C, as all the info should be bookmarked on my currently dead computer. But you can find the P/S pump and bracket from a junkyard, straight from honda, classified forums; the usual places to find parts. And you do need the '97+ pump, because that's what works with the H22a. For high pressure lines, you need to find a place that can make them for you. Try a local place for the cheapest prices, or search around online.
The swap could be done anywhere from $3,500-$5000+. It depends on what parts you buy. Search around for the best prices and shop that way.
For the tilt, look at the first pic on this page that ZedEX posted. Notice the back and front of the engine in correlation to the strut bar. c
93CivicSiD16HB
05-23-2006, 01:26 PM
Well if anyone else could get that info on the a/c thatd be great, like if the hasport mounts allow the fitting of one or if another mounting kit does, as I'm going for the difficult Street/Show/Daily Driver route and though all of this i'd like cold air, :grinyes:
But about the 'base' that was just a misunderstanding on my part :screwy:, there were two options Type SH or just an H22a, which i mistook for a base model, where as I am going to be getting the 92-95 H22a engine for my 00' si.
This also brings up the OBD-I and II converting question, how is it done and how easy/pricey is it?
And, i figure, would this setup then be just about the same as the 97+ swap?
H22A 92-95 Complete Change Over (http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30016)
(http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30016)200Hp 161Trq 10.6 Compression (JDM)
190Hp 156Trq 10.0 Compression (USDM)
$ 2199.00 Plus shipping and handling.
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/images/H22AChgovr.jpg
But about the 'base' that was just a misunderstanding on my part :screwy:, there were two options Type SH or just an H22a, which i mistook for a base model, where as I am going to be getting the 92-95 H22a engine for my 00' si.
This also brings up the OBD-I and II converting question, how is it done and how easy/pricey is it?
And, i figure, would this setup then be just about the same as the 97+ swap?
H22A 92-95 Complete Change Over (http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30016)
(http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30016)200Hp 161Trq 10.6 Compression (JDM)
190Hp 156Trq 10.0 Compression (USDM)
$ 2199.00 Plus shipping and handling.
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/images/H22AChgovr.jpg
ZedEx
07-04-2006, 12:19 PM
Well think about it man... We spent $3,000 or so on the swap for the Silver EK. $1,500 for the swap, $550 for the HASport mounts, $350 for the Raxle custom axles, $600 for the Pro-Speed Header $80 for the OBDII-OBDI Conversion Harness, and retuning it with Crome. (Don't try it by yourself unless you have someon that knows what they're doing with you! You can seriously mess the engine up!)
And the car put down 190whp, 156ftlbs. STOCK. Only modifcation being that Pro-Speed Header. Now, my Type-R has put down over 180whp, but with 140ftlbs or so. I ran the Civic (On the highway, no city street racing) from second gear, and he started pulling away at the low end of each gear, but when I hit the top end, I started catching right back up next to him, and by the time we were in fifth gear, we were side by side.
H-Series have torque... Lots of it. If I could put an H22 in the Type-R without ruining the value of the car, I'D DO IT.
As for your question on OBDII-OBDI Conversion... Go Here (www.boomslang.us), that's the company we use for all of our needs.
And if you go with a K20A3 over the H22, you're a mad man. You'd rather spend over $5,000 on a 160bhp single cam (I say that because the A3 only have i-VTEC on the intake cam, not exhaust, pretty weak.), or around $2,500 on an easily 190whp+ swap with TONS of torque. Just think about that.
If you want to be "The Man", do what we're doing into the white car now (The H22 got hydrolocked during a bad storm, so the rebuild has begun). Buy an H23 Block, buy H22 Type-S JDM Pistons (You HAVE to make sure you're buying the correct ones, H-Seriess have A, and B Pistons, each are different, you need to check the markings on the block before you buy! And please remember, H-Series engines are FRM (Fiber Reinforced Material), which means there are only a hand full of places in the US which will even touch an H22, closest one to me is Maryland, and they wanted $1,200 to HONE it! So if you get your H23 block, you must make sure the cylinder walls are in good shape, otherwise don't touch it.), have the H23 Crankshaft Balanced, install oil squirters from H22 (They bolt right up), get an H22 Head, JDM LSD Transmission. Throw everything together, and you've got a monster under your hood, the CR will be over 13:1, the torque will be amazing, and high end will still be great, the car would be a monster.
I'll post pictures up of our progess with this swap, it's really not hard at all!
-Wes
And the car put down 190whp, 156ftlbs. STOCK. Only modifcation being that Pro-Speed Header. Now, my Type-R has put down over 180whp, but with 140ftlbs or so. I ran the Civic (On the highway, no city street racing) from second gear, and he started pulling away at the low end of each gear, but when I hit the top end, I started catching right back up next to him, and by the time we were in fifth gear, we were side by side.
H-Series have torque... Lots of it. If I could put an H22 in the Type-R without ruining the value of the car, I'D DO IT.
As for your question on OBDII-OBDI Conversion... Go Here (www.boomslang.us), that's the company we use for all of our needs.
And if you go with a K20A3 over the H22, you're a mad man. You'd rather spend over $5,000 on a 160bhp single cam (I say that because the A3 only have i-VTEC on the intake cam, not exhaust, pretty weak.), or around $2,500 on an easily 190whp+ swap with TONS of torque. Just think about that.
If you want to be "The Man", do what we're doing into the white car now (The H22 got hydrolocked during a bad storm, so the rebuild has begun). Buy an H23 Block, buy H22 Type-S JDM Pistons (You HAVE to make sure you're buying the correct ones, H-Seriess have A, and B Pistons, each are different, you need to check the markings on the block before you buy! And please remember, H-Series engines are FRM (Fiber Reinforced Material), which means there are only a hand full of places in the US which will even touch an H22, closest one to me is Maryland, and they wanted $1,200 to HONE it! So if you get your H23 block, you must make sure the cylinder walls are in good shape, otherwise don't touch it.), have the H23 Crankshaft Balanced, install oil squirters from H22 (They bolt right up), get an H22 Head, JDM LSD Transmission. Throw everything together, and you've got a monster under your hood, the CR will be over 13:1, the torque will be amazing, and high end will still be great, the car would be a monster.
I'll post pictures up of our progess with this swap, it's really not hard at all!
-Wes
CivicSpoon
08-18-2006, 06:51 PM
My friend let me drive his car a few weeks ago, after upgrading his suspension again. He just got new Progress H-series swap springs, KYB adjustable shocks, and did the entire energy suspension bushings kit...the car handles GREAT. And he has 17" rims, and the tires are a hell of a lot wider than my 175/70/13 tires. With all that, in all honesty, it has less understeer than my stock '94 CX (neither car has power steering I should also add).
onebadcrawler
12-07-2006, 09:23 PM
Hi i have a 1999 Honda Civic Dx that i am possibly thinking about dropping an H22a into. Do you know if the kits and the mounts that Hasport makes will work for my application? Also do you know you know if all the other parts will work also? i appreciate it
h22eg8
01-14-2007, 01:40 PM
Whats up everyone. I'm pickin up my hatch in about a week or so and I was just wonderin if any could help me out. It's a 95 eg8 with a h22a full swap. It has forged pistons, aem cai, skunk2 cams, DC headers, full header-back exhaust, new manifold i believe, and when i pick it up ill be getting s200 interface box from hondata with a new tune. oh yeh and hatch is completely gutted. any1 have any good info on h22a hatch swaps or just some advice? thanks
CivicSpoon
01-14-2007, 02:49 PM
Hi i have a 1999 Honda Civic Dx that i am possibly thinking about dropping an H22a into. Do you know if the kits and the mounts that Hasport makes will work for my application? Also do you know you know if all the other parts will work also? i appreciate it
I honestly haven't really looked into what's involved in the H22a swap into any other cars other than the '92-'95 Civics, so I really don't know what's involved with wiring and such. But Hasport does make a mount kit specifically for the '96-'00 Civics: http://hasport.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=36
I honestly haven't really looked into what's involved in the H22a swap into any other cars other than the '92-'95 Civics, so I really don't know what's involved with wiring and such. But Hasport does make a mount kit specifically for the '96-'00 Civics: http://hasport.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=36
CivicSpoon
01-14-2007, 03:05 PM
Whats up everyone. I'm pickin up my hatch in about a week or so and I was just wonderin if any could help me out. It's a 95 eg8 with a h22a full swap. It has forged pistons, aem cai, skunk2 cams, DC headers, full header-back exhaust, new manifold i believe, and when i pick it up ill be getting s200 interface box from hondata with a new tune. oh yeh and hatch is completely gutted. any1 have any good info on h22a hatch swaps or just some advice? thanks
Do you mean the swap is already done or do you mean you're looking for info on how to do the swap?
Some advice would be TRACTION. Traction is your biggest enemy when it comes to the brute force of an h22a swap. Make sure to get some quality shocks and springs (or coilovers), don't go cheap. And get some nice sticky tires too. Also you should seriously consider upgrading your brakes as well (slamming on the stock brakes in a '95 LX at 145+mph when someone pulls out infront of you is NOT fun, nor is it smart or safe). You should also think about some of that heat resistant tape stuff to stick around the shifter assembly. Not only will it keep the heat, from your exhaust, from boiling you inside your car, but it will also help keep out most of the gas fumes. Something like one of these: http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=7
Do you mean the swap is already done or do you mean you're looking for info on how to do the swap?
Some advice would be TRACTION. Traction is your biggest enemy when it comes to the brute force of an h22a swap. Make sure to get some quality shocks and springs (or coilovers), don't go cheap. And get some nice sticky tires too. Also you should seriously consider upgrading your brakes as well (slamming on the stock brakes in a '95 LX at 145+mph when someone pulls out infront of you is NOT fun, nor is it smart or safe). You should also think about some of that heat resistant tape stuff to stick around the shifter assembly. Not only will it keep the heat, from your exhaust, from boiling you inside your car, but it will also help keep out most of the gas fumes. Something like one of these: http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=7
Mazdarider
08-04-2007, 10:48 AM
This is great this answered my post!!! Thanks But does anyone know if the K20 would be a better choice?
CivicSpoon
08-04-2007, 12:12 PM
As long as you're not talking about the K20A3, and you have the $ for the K-series swap; then yes the K-series would be a better choice.
canejuice gary
04-05-2010, 12:49 AM
I have a fully built h22a turbo,its currently been installed in a 1992 civic eg6,am hoping to make about 600whp on racing gas,my question is for the best posible 1/4 mile time which gearbox set is best,,,right now am running a t2t4 LSD gearbox which came off a JDM F20B,,would a B series box be better????
canejuice gary
04-05-2010, 01:15 AM
A fully built h22a turbo installed in a civic eg6,how much will this affect the overall handling,,am hearing some horror stories..
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