heater blower
newscarver
12-14-2004, 06:13 PM
recently my heater blower motor has begun to work intermittently,while it usually works in the morning it may not always come back on if i have to start the car again after shutting off fo a few minutes to a few hours. it isnt either fuse and the wires leading up to the motor itself have been wiggled, pushed pulled and this doesnt help..then after driving awhile it may begin working again....often when you put the brakes on the blower slows down as well :screwy:
ryank771
12-16-2004, 07:22 AM
I've noticed mine will slow down when hitting the breakes as well --- I believe the AC did the same thing. Almost like the extra electrical stuff going on caused it to be under powered or something. Battery and alternator are in perfect shape too.
Retro-D
12-16-2004, 09:39 AM
recently my heater blower motor has begun to work intermittently,while it usually works in the morning it may not always come back on if i have to start the car again after shutting off fo a few minutes to a few hours. it isnt either fuse and the wires leading up to the motor itself have been wiggled, pushed pulled and this doesnt help..then after driving awhile it may begin working again....often when you put the brakes on the blower slows down as well :screwy:
Sounds like the trouble I was having back in May of this year. Here is a post I made to another board back in July, the repair I made then is still working great!
Thought I would share my recent repair of an inoperative blower motor on my 95. The heater/air blower is controlled by a 'blower control module' located very close to the blower motor (inside the blower housing) on the passenger side (under the dash behind a plastic panel). Mine would cut in and out and then I would smell burning plastic. Upon removal of the module I found the red power lead pin had corroded off the module. Seeing as the connector is sealed and inside the car I suspect galvanic corrosion, so many cars may see this very same problem. The dealer wanted $110 for a new module so I ground away the epoxy at the corroded pin on the module and soldered on a new lead about an inch long. I then cut off the power connector which had become useless because of the old pin firmly corroded in the old connector and solder spliced and taped the connection. Works like a charm and just completed a 1000 mile trip with continuous use. Hope this info helps someone out.
RD
Sounds like the trouble I was having back in May of this year. Here is a post I made to another board back in July, the repair I made then is still working great!
Thought I would share my recent repair of an inoperative blower motor on my 95. The heater/air blower is controlled by a 'blower control module' located very close to the blower motor (inside the blower housing) on the passenger side (under the dash behind a plastic panel). Mine would cut in and out and then I would smell burning plastic. Upon removal of the module I found the red power lead pin had corroded off the module. Seeing as the connector is sealed and inside the car I suspect galvanic corrosion, so many cars may see this very same problem. The dealer wanted $110 for a new module so I ground away the epoxy at the corroded pin on the module and soldered on a new lead about an inch long. I then cut off the power connector which had become useless because of the old pin firmly corroded in the old connector and solder spliced and taped the connection. Works like a charm and just completed a 1000 mile trip with continuous use. Hope this info helps someone out.
RD
SublimeZ31
12-16-2004, 10:37 AM
retro ~ good call on the galvanic corrosion, i'd totally agree. thanks for the tip, ill know to watch out for that
LesGrandsPieds
12-19-2004, 03:36 AM
Dang, you're one smart dude.
efell7
01-24-2005, 02:16 PM
This info has helped me narrow down a similar problem I'm having, but I have one more question for Retro-D (or whoever else can help): Are there any serviceable parts inside the actual control module? The red power connector doesn't have any noticeable corrosion and I can read voltage across it, so that part is ok. I don't see any corrosion on any of the wires as a matter of fact, so I suspect the problem is inside the module. Another question is can i just bypass the control module for now(it's cold here and I can't get to the shop for another week) or will that damage the blower motor? I know the blower motor works because I pulled it out and tested it directly to the battery, but I don't know if prolonged voltage will damage it.
FL
FL
Retro-D
01-24-2005, 03:57 PM
This info has helped me narrow down a similar problem I'm having, but I have one more question for Retro-D (or whoever else can help): Are there any serviceable parts inside the actual control module? The red power connector doesn't have any noticeable corrosion and I can read voltage across it, so that part is ok. I don't see any corrosion on any of the wires as a matter of fact, so I suspect the problem is inside the module. Another question is can i just bypass the control module for now(it's cold here and I can't get to the shop for another week) or will that damage the blower motor? I know the blower motor works because I pulled it out and tested it directly to the battery, but I don't know if prolonged voltage will damage it.
FL
Take the module out and inspect the connectors and plug, they should be clean. The module is encapsulated in epoxy so it is not really repairable internally. Yes, you can apply full battery voltage to the blower in a pinch, you will not damage it.
RD
FL
Take the module out and inspect the connectors and plug, they should be clean. The module is encapsulated in epoxy so it is not really repairable internally. Yes, you can apply full battery voltage to the blower in a pinch, you will not damage it.
RD
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