Stalling Issues for '87 T/A

I posted about this problem earlier but still havn't had time to fix it or even look at it. Anyway, I have an '87 T/A with the factory Carb. It has 218K miles. Is there any chance that that fuel pump is still original...it is the block mounted pump by the way. My car keeps stalling out in town now too and I want to know if it is a pump before looking any further. It smells like it running rich though, but when it dies, I have to sit for a while, keep trying to start it, and after a while it finally starts back up. Before it was only doing this on long trips after about 100 miles. Now it does it in town. Does the fact that it starts back up again after trying to start it imply that the fuel pump is going/gone and that after turning the engine over, the fuel pump finally pumps fuel back up to the carb after a temporary hiccup, or that it is something else and just letting it sit/trying to start it just dumps that extra fuel until it finally starts? Thanks.

Alright, how about this then...we'll take a poll. How many of you think I should slap a new fuel pump and filter on there and see if that fixes the problem? The pump is only about $20 but the labor may take a while.

f@$# it,The way I look at it throw in a new fuel pump so u can sleep better at night and the part is cheap .And if that does not work u dont have to worry about it anymore and u can move on to the next probable cause of the stalling issue.

the pump does need replaced if you think its original but what you have described is a classic description of an ignition module failure.Next time it dies,take an ice cube,and touch it to the outside bottom of the distributor where its made of metal,as to cool the area off where the ignition module mounts inside.cool it with ice for about two minutes,or until it feels cool to the touch and then crank it up and see if it starts.

if it starts after that you have saved yourself about two or three hours labor,and some money too,but try to get the ice to it quick,and try to be back inside of it trying it within 3 to 5 minutes.(if it even stays dead that long)...

Would ignition module failure cause it to run rich? Does the whole distributor need replacement if thats the problem or can just the module be replaced?

nah the runing rich is prolly a bad 02 sensor or somthin.An ignition module is like 14 bucks,and a flat tipped screwdriver and quarter inch driver is all thats needed to change it.Once you get the cap and bug off of it,they are pretty self explanitory too.ive had them changed in 15 minutes,but ive installed countless numbers of em.If its bad it will not spark,but should stll have fuel pressure.If you think that could be a problem,just check its spark with a timing light or take a plug wire off and hook another plug to it,while it will not start. if your getting no spark,than thats usually the problem.have you determined if its a fuel or spark related failure?

Not really, as I said I havn't had much time to even look at it. I also don't really have access to shop tools anymore so i have to do everything by guess work or just throwing parts at it...which I hate doing. I assumed it was fuel related because of the fact that it does it after long distance(at least did) and that it smells like its running super rich. When it does start to die...sometimes I can cripple it along for quite a while. It runs like its not gettign enough fuel bacause I can cripple it along at slow speed if I dont give it much gas to keep it going...too much throttle kills it. I guess it could be spark related. Anyway, I drove it home at like 40 mph for like 70 miles on the interstate crippling it along till it killed than stopping and waiting for it to restart and did the whole thing over again. Honestly, Im used to fuel injection...this computer carb is killing me.

It could be vacuum leak at the carb/fuel injected unit,intake manifold,or vacuum hoses,fuel filter clogged ,water impurities in fuel system,distributor damp or damaged,faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs,valve clearence incorrectly set,choke improperly adjusted or sticking,idle speed incorrect.

To test your fuel pump disconnect the fuel line at carb/fuel injector and remove the filter.place a container under the disconnected fuel line.Observe the flow of fuel from the line.If little or none at all,check for blockage in the lines and/or replace the fuel pump.

the way you just described it,makes me start to suspect the fuel system or computer a little bit more tho...

The whole reason I initially suspected the fuel system/fuel pump was because of how it progressiviely has been getting worse. It ran the 500 mile trip fine the first time I ran it. About 1 month later when I tried it again, it started dying after about 100 miles or so, but once it started, made it the rest of the way(about 125 more miles) just fine. On the trip back, however, it did it after 100 miles and kept doing it til I got it home. Now it has done it once here in town. Honestly, I never drive it because Im afraid itll leave me stranded.

i dunno man.i hate it when a problem acts like it could be more than one thing.and the limping home thing has got to get annoying

Heres a problem I had that will maybe shed some light, my car was stalling for a while and eventually died while going 80 on the freeway with plenty of gas.It didnt want to start anymore so my mechanic installed a new distributor ,it started and has not stalled since.However,I guess from being hasty and continually trying to start it with no engine turn my starter died a few days later.I installed a new ste=arter with my friends assistance and starts like a champ and still have not had any stalling problems.(knock on wood)

Idont know if this question is related but I would still like to know, What kind of warnings/if any does a alternator give when its going bad?

usually its the pickup coil,or the ignition module.if not that fuel pump or a relay

if you check your altenator with a digital volt meter,it should be charging at 13.8 volts minimum,and shouldnt vary more than .3 volts at any time,with the stereo off and headlights on.pour some water on the windshield,turn on the wipers,and turn on the heater and a blinker,and see what the voltage is at the battery,with a voltmeter.anything less than 12.6 volts is going to eventually leave you stranded

I shouldn't have a fuel pump relay as it is the block mounted pump for a carburated engine, not fuel injection. I think Im going to replace the pump anyway and the filter just to see. If the problem occurs again, Ill look into the distributor. Thanks for the insights and help. Hopefully the fuel pump is the only problem.

you should replace your fuel pump,and when you do take out the rod that drives the pump,and spray some lube up into the hole,and repolish the rod,get it spotless.I forgot you had a olde school pump...sry

i had a pump do that to me,jus cause it was so old..you should get a vaccume style dustributor,and get rid of that computer controled crap.if you get a vaccume advance hei distributor,none of that computer shit will matter again.You can control your timing better with a hose,and a flyweight recurve kit,than that computer and o2 sensor crap can.that would solve your probs,if you threw in a fresh fuel pump,and new plugs

that carb you have will work with a earlier model distributor,even tho it has a tps and the other deal

then you can feel free to pull the ecm fuse,and it will run the same every single day without flinching.u wanna get some added hp,if the carb os lookin iffy,replace it or have it rebuilt and checked for leaks around the baseplate