SRS Problem... What else can I do?

I replaced the Yellow connector under the Driver seat. One cable was cut and I was told by many that the series of beeps I was getting was due to it. Went to dealer and paid $25 for it.

I took the seat out and inspected every single conenctor under it. Unpluged all connectors and plugged them back in. Every single one of them.
Spliced the cable and connected it. Put the seat back in place and my problem Still remains unresolved.

There are 5 sets of 5 beeps each with about 4 seconds between set. It comes up everytime I start the car and sometimes it comes up while driving and goes through the cycle all over.

There is no message on the Message Center and no lights comes ON, on the cluster and my SRS LIGHT has never come on at all since I bought this car (2 mth ago).
It only has 70k miles and this is just one of the problems that is really anoying my life. My driver heated seat does not work ither. Just the passenger works..An it heats pretty well I hear from the chicks I pick up..hehe.

I have checked the Pasengers seat and there are no cut cables. I'm thinking about taking that seat out as well and see what I find but, other than that, I don't know what else I can do.

The dealer charges about $100 for a diagnostic and I'm not really in the best shape ever (money wise). I want to do anythin I can before taking it IN for a check...

Any Ideas??? PLease help. Sorry for the lng message, and thank you for any reponse on this.

Yoni A.

I replaced the Yellow connector under the Driver seat. One cable was cut and I was told by many that the series of beeps I was getting was due to it. Went to dealer and paid $25 for it.

I took the seat out and inspected every single conenctor under it. Unpluged all connectors and plugged them back in. Every single one of them.
Spliced the cable and connected it. Put the seat back in place and my problem Still remains unresolved.

There are 5 sets of 5 beeps each with about 4 seconds between set. It comes up everytime I start the car and sometimes it comes up while driving and goes through the cycle all over.

There is no message on the Message Center and no lights comes ON, on the cluster and my SRS LIGHT has never come on at all since I bought this car (2 mth ago).
It only has 70k miles and this is just one of the problems that is really anoying my life. My driver heated seat does not work ither. Just the passenger works..An it heats pretty well I hear from the chicks I pick up..hehe.

I have checked the Pasengers seat and there are no cut cables. I'm thinking about taking that seat out as well and see what I find but, other than that, I don't know what else I can do.

The dealer charges about $100 for a diagnostic and I'm not really in the best shape ever (money wise). I want to do anythin I can before taking it IN for a check...

Any Ideas??? PLease help. Sorry for the lng message, and thank you for any reponse on this.

Yoni A.

IF you know someone with a scan tool that has the extend ford code library they could scan the car for you. Whatever you do... do not take your car to a non Lincoln shop. Most of the times even ford isn't equiped to troubleshoot this car.

You could try pulling fuses and see if you can isolate the accy that is causing this beeping. At least then you might be able to confirm whether or not it is the SRS. Dont drive it though while doing this becasue you could pull the fuse to a critical system or disarm a safety device.

Yea, I thought about goin through the fuses but it was too late when I finished installing the connector.

I have taken the Car to Autozone but They were not able to pull any codes. They said the scan they have retreive codes only when Engine Light has come ON.

I have checked the fusses before but, I will check them Again. Do you think I need to reset something?
Could it be the Light bold in the cluster?
Has anyone take the cluster OFF?
If so, can you give me some heads up on that one.
I'm also planing on taking it apart but I'm not sure if it is a good ideam. I have done it before on other cars. This Lincoln however, looks pretty complicated.
I'm clueless.. I don't know what to do..

Thanks for any and all info anyone can provide.

Yoni A.

1) I have checked the fusses before but, I will check them Again. Do you think I need to reset something?
2) Could it be the Light bold in the cluster?
3) Has anyone take the cluster OFF? If so, can you give me some heads up on that one.

Thanks for any and all info anyone can provide.

Yoni A.


1) nothing to reset. If you haven't disconnect your battery for 10mins - try that.

2) no likely

3) yes - it is alot of work - not technical but just a lot of bolts and stuff. You can work through it with time.

Another thing - I had this happen to me - it was the clockspring - which sits at the top of the steering colum under the steering wheel - and has the wires for the audio controls and air bag in it. It is wrapped in a funny twisted pattern to all the sterring wheel to rotate while passing the wires from the steering colum to the steering wheel.

the part was $100 and took an hour to replace.

Go to AatoZone you can rent their OBDII tool, but with a deposit and if you have any codes It wiil show them, then mach them up with the codes in the front of the book.

I have taken the Battery off and let it sit there for about 25 minutes, hooked it bac up and nothing changed.

I will try renting the OBDII fron Outozone. But, What book are you talking about?
I will also check the Spring under the clockspring wheel.

Is it possible that the SRS light bulb in the sluster is burned?

I would like to know how to take the cluster off.
anyone out there has some steps I should follow?

Thanks..

Yoni A.

I have taken the Battery off and let it sit there for about 25 minutes, hooked it bac up and nothing changed.

I will try renting the OBDII fron Outozone. But, What book are you talking about?
I will also check the Spring under the clockspring wheel.

Is it possible that the SRS light bulb in the sluster is burned?

I would like to know how to take the cluster off.
anyone out there has some steps I should follow?

Thanks..

Yoni A.


Not certain if the AZ tool will help much. Reason is that is it only shows stored codes that illuminate the CEL anyway. You will need something with a better ability to look at things like pending codes and possibly run diag test. The tool I use is from autoenginuity.com and they offer the ford extended obdII codes that tools like the one from AZ cannot give readings on.

In regards to the SRS bulb... I would think yes it is but considering the importance of this safety device that the CEL would illuminate if the SRS light is out. It is possible both the srs and cel lights are out but not probable

If you have the time and willingness to troubleshoot this then you will need the right tools and shop manuals or CD to do it. It is a hefty investment to make but it can keep you from having to depend on the factory techs at the dealer.

I can tell you from experience that there is no easy reapir for anything on this car. Even changing the light bulbs is a test of tolerance.

Honestly if you are not willing to go the extra mile then you would be best served by taking it to the techs at the dealer.

Well, Where do I get the manuals and CD's for reapir on this car. Besides working on Computers, I also love working with cars. If it is something that can do without making the problem worse, then you bet I would do it. Now, things like chain belt, Trainy and stuff like that (major stuff) I would definitely take it to dealer.

My problem is that I don't trust any dealer/repair shop.

I want to make sure WHAT the root of the problem is (if I can) before I give in.

You see I had a misfire on my Diamante LS. I took it to the deler and got quoted $1500 for the PCM. I took it to other repair shops, and got quoted half that. I troubleshooted it myself and Spent $135 to be exact and till this day (2 years later) my car is running like a champ.

The problem was not my car computer, Cylinder, Coils... nor anything of what they said it was.

It was a tiny litle box Called Transistor Unit. I tried to replace the transsitor that was out but the box is sealed and there is no way to open it without breakingit.

My point is that from $1500 I went down to $135 to fix a misfire. Now do you see where I come from.

You take the car for one problem and they tell you your problem is something else.

What do you think about www.autotap.com as suppose to www.autoenginuity.com ????

Yoni A.

Well, Where do I get the manuals and CD's for reapir on this car. Besides working on Computers, I also love working with cars. If it is something that can do without making the problem worse, then you bet I would do it. Now, things like chain belt, Trainy and stuff like that (major stuff) I would definitely take it to dealer.

My problem is that I don't trust any dealer/repair shop.

I want to make sure WHAT the root of the problem is (if I can) before I give in.

You see I had a misfire on my Diamante LS. I took it to the deler and got quoted $1500 for the PCM. I took it to other repair shops, and got quoted half that. I troubleshooted it myself and Spent $135 to be exact and till this day (2 years later) my car is running like a champ.

The problem was not my car computer, Cylinder, Coils... nor anything of what they said it was.

It was a tiny litle box Called Transistor Unit. I tried to replace the transsitor that was out but the box is sealed and there is no way to open it without breakingit.

My point is that from $1500 I went down to $135 to fix a misfire. Now do you see where I come from.

You take the car for one problem and they tell you your problem is something else.

What do you think about www.autotap.com as suppose to www.autoenginuity.com ????

Yoni A.


I hear ya shipmate I have sailed those rough seas. One could waste more time and energy trying to hold a delaer to task for the work they were retained to perform.

Autotap has been out there for a while and might have better product support. They appeared to be on par productwise so I bought the scantool from autoenginuity on ebay for about 50 or 60 bucks cheaper than listed on the website.

They both have the same price for the ford extended code set which you might need to test the srs system. If you don't have any codes pending then you will have to begin the diag process. Fortunately I have not had a need for the extended codes and won't buy them just to hobby with since they are vendor specifi.

I have helped family, friends and neighbors with thier cars several times. Often they were able to buy an off the shelf part to clear the CEL permanently. 2 had to go to the stealer, I mean dealer.

I chose the autotap primarily becasue they have developed a bluetooth obdII connector. I do use bluetooth devices now but have not upgraded my scantool for it again kind of holding off on the hobby items.

The customer service at autoengnuity is excellent and when you email them you speak with the owner/developer. I have nothing but good things to say about these folks and they came highly recommended to me by another LS forum user. I think it was quick ls could be wrong.

Explore both sites call both vendors this is a costly tool but if you use it properly it will save you money down the road.

The service CD you can shop for on ebay as well again bought mine there or you can subscribe to alldata.com If you have a wifi at home that reaches your garage this site can be of great use. A friend uses it at his auto shop and got me hooked.

Plus you always got us nuts to bounce ideas off of collectively I think we have seen most of the issues from 00 to 04.

So I finally geve in. 5 months after I got my 2000 LS V8, I have decided to take it in for the Series of beets and point to the SRS system.

I go exactly what I predicted,. You take your car for one problem and they (the dealer) are quick to find you 3 or four more.
Needles to say that after having my car for the entire day, they finally called me to reveal my nightmare. They said that I was looking @ $2150.45 for the bill if I had all other maintenance done on my Baby (MY LS).

They still don't know if the problem on my SRS is due to a burned out Bulb in the Intstrument cluster or the ClockSpring (CS) needs to be replace. Either wasy, I'm looking @ $500 jut to get that fix.

I found the CS for $88 bucks. and then buld, I'm pretty sure is around maybe $10. If I can put my hands on a Step by Step on how to remove the Instrument Cluster, I would same myself some bucks there.

Anyhow, they also said that my 60K maintenance is 11K miles over due and I should have it done...an extra $600 right there. I don't know if this includes Timing belt, (will ask tomorrow when I call).

Anyhow, what really needs to be change on a 60k tun up, beside Plugs, PCV valve,....What else? I told them I did not know if the tune up has been done. I asked then if they could pull out a print out of what has been done to it by the first owner, and their answer was "we are not linked to other Lincoln Dealers, plus, chances are the owner took it to a none lincoln dealer/shops". So, smart thing to do is JUST to GET IT DONE... BS huh...!!

They also said that breaks are due for a change. That includes Front rotors and possibly rear (not sure), Break Pads all around and break fluid flush = $600.

There are some other charges that I have no clue what they are. I'll find that out tomorrow.

My car runs greate, I got it with only 61K miles on it. All I wanted was an oil change and the SRS taking care of?

Anyone outher with good sugestions on where to look at for a cheaper service, and ofcourse, good quality.


What do I do, Wat do I doooo......?

So I finally geve in. 5 months after I got my 2000 LS V8, I have decided to take it in for the Series of beets and point to the SRS system.

I go exactly what I predicted,. You take your car for one problem and they (the dealer) are quick to find you 3 or four more.
Needles to say that after having my car for the entire day, they finally called me to reveal my nightmare. They said that I was looking @ $2150.45 for the bill if I had all other maintenance done on my Baby (MY LS).

Holy Lord! There are no timing belts to replace. I don't remember seeing a listing for PCV valve on the v8 either. Plugs are done at 100k, but most of us DIYers do it earlier. This isn't a Honda that was designed to have major service done at 60k. I wouldn't waste the vaseline myself. I think I would run.

I was going to take my car in to the dealer to have them look at the rear diff, but after reading crap like this, I know I am doing the right thing by trying it on my own! I could only imagine what they would charge me for diff repair!

I wish I could tell you where to go with it. I hate relying on someone else to work on my cars. That is why I try to own an extra. It gives me time to fix the broken down one. :)

Good luck and keep us posted.

I found the CS for $88 bucks. and then buld, I'm pretty sure is around maybe $10. If I can put my hands on a Step by Step on how to remove the Instrument Cluster, I would same myself some bucks there.
If it is the clockspring - the light should be constantly on. It is unlikely the light itself.

Restraints Control Module (RCM) controls all the saftey stuff. It is located under the front of the center console. Check fuse #17 (5A) in the passenger footwell - it's for the RCM and Alternator Warning Lamp.Anyhow, they also said that my 60K maintenance is 11K miles over due and I should have it done...an extra $600 right there. I don't know if this includes Timing belt, (will ask tomorrow when I call).
No timing belt - timing chains - and not replace unless there is an issue.Anyhow, what really needs to be change on a 60k tun up, beside Plugs, PCV valve,....What else?
The V8 does not have a PCV value, too early for plugs (unless fouling issue).They also said that breaks are due for a change. That includes Front rotors and possibly rear (not sure), Break Pads all around and break fluid flush = $600.
Many LS owners report that their brakes needed replace before 30,000 miles - mostly the rears since the Traction Control is constantly applying little brake inputs as you drive around. I'm on my third set with 35k miles - but my racing eats the brakes more.

I just got my car back from the dealer. I paid $928.44 for the 60k mile maintenance. They said it was 11k miles overdue. What pisses me off is that they did not change the plugs and wires. They said that such tings are not due untill I hit the 105kml mark. They flushed all fluids out (or so they said).

I took my car for the SRS issue and I had to pospone it, and get this done instead. what a pain. Now I have to drive with that stupid beeping for another few months.

To fix the SRS system, all the have to do is to replace the Light bulb and the ClockSpring they said, and that runs for another $533.84.

They quoted me $686 for the the brakes (includes 2 front rotor replacement, resurface the rear ones and put break pads on them.

I did not let them do them.
I found a set of four Rotor on ebay for $195 (shiping included). I'm still looking for the Porterfield R4s pads. Can't find then anywhere.

I WILL CHECK THE FUSE QUIK LS AND WILL KEEP YOU POSTED.

~~YONI

Ok, I took the Fuse #17 out. Crank the car up and nothing changed. The fuse is good.

I took Fuse#10 out and this time the beeping went away,. I thought I would leave this fuse out but it turns out it controls the DATC (Dual Automatic temperature Control) and my A/C wont work at all.

I was looking at the cluster and I have decided to go in and remove it to take a look at the buld.

Wish me luck and I let you guys know how it goes later.

I'm Back....I think I found the Problem.

I took the cluster out and guess what...???

This FKNG thing has ben tampered with. As I was taking it apart, I notice that there were only 3 screws holding it down rather than four.

I now have the Intstrument cluster seating on my coffe table and the LIGHT BULB for the SRS IS MISSING.. How about that??

Now, I have a question.

How do I know if my Car is Equiped with Sterring Colum Lock?

On the manual it said that

"if equiped, this light Momnetarily Illuminates when the ignition is turnedto the RUN position"

I have that bulb on the cluster but I have never seen the light illuminating when I turn the Key to the Run position. I'm thinking that my car probably does not have this feature and I will use that buld for the SRS instead...

Any coments?

At least i am not alone. i was also chasing down the mystery beep and NO SRS light. Removed the cluster and also found that the airbag bulb and socket had been removed. I called the dealer back and of course they deny having done it. Not like i can prove it. Im going to price the clockspring today.
Any pages on replacement will be appreciated.

I used the forum search tool to search the LS forum for clockspring. The following hit addresses the steps to replace the clockspring.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=563823&highlight=clockspring

There were other hits that may be worthwhile for you to review as well.

-Rod