Rear Disk Brake Conversion
Wagon4wdRTI
03-03-2002, 02:06 PM
Ok Ive seen alot of people Swapping out The Shitty Drum Brakes in
The 88-91 Honda civics now I want IN
Can I convert The Rear drums on the 88 civic Wagon 4x4 to Disk Brakes . What parts do I need If it can be done to this car, And what problems can I face doing the conversion, Is It worth the Trouble.
Im only asking Cause I need REALLY GOOD STOPPING POWER
Since Im REALLY HEAVY on The GAS. Usually When I slam on the brakes my Front wheels lock Bringing forth The 2 flat spots on the front tires, which cause vibration when im on the highway. Will Disk brakes in the rear Equal out the Braking in the front and provide Even Stopping power? Let a Fellow Ricer Know What is the Deal
The 88-91 Honda civics now I want IN
Can I convert The Rear drums on the 88 civic Wagon 4x4 to Disk Brakes . What parts do I need If it can be done to this car, And what problems can I face doing the conversion, Is It worth the Trouble.
Im only asking Cause I need REALLY GOOD STOPPING POWER
Since Im REALLY HEAVY on The GAS. Usually When I slam on the brakes my Front wheels lock Bringing forth The 2 flat spots on the front tires, which cause vibration when im on the highway. Will Disk brakes in the rear Equal out the Braking in the front and provide Even Stopping power? Let a Fellow Ricer Know What is the Deal
Ebranste
03-03-2002, 04:41 PM
It will help your nose-dive problem, but not very much. You'll need a combination of replacing your shocks and struts, at least in the front as well as a rear disc conversion.
The idea is that when your car nose dives, it puts more wieght on the from end and makes it easier for you to lose traction. This causes your front brakes to lock more easily. Converting the rear to disc brakes will reduce the workload on your front brakes, but the nose dive when braking hard will still cause a loss of traction on the front end.
Costs........$200 for parts-rear disc conversion. Ask around for labor or DIYS.
New shocks and struts. $500 for parts assuming your install it yourself and aren;t looking fora sport or racing lowered suspension.
The idea is that when your car nose dives, it puts more wieght on the from end and makes it easier for you to lose traction. This causes your front brakes to lock more easily. Converting the rear to disc brakes will reduce the workload on your front brakes, but the nose dive when braking hard will still cause a loss of traction on the front end.
Costs........$200 for parts-rear disc conversion. Ask around for labor or DIYS.
New shocks and struts. $500 for parts assuming your install it yourself and aren;t looking fora sport or racing lowered suspension.
crxlvr
03-03-2002, 06:11 PM
your front brakes are what do more then 80% of your stopping, the rear brakes only come into play in emergency brakeing and when you yank the e-brake handle, other then that its all front brakes doing the work. most people do the conversion becuase it looks better and has a slight performance gain. if you wanna stop faster(sooner) then get a Big Brake Upgrade Kit from like AEM or someone, then you will notice a difference.
Ebranste
03-03-2002, 09:23 PM
Your right. Your front brkaes do 80% of the work if you have rear drums, but saying that your front brakes do all the work when you press the pedal is incorrect or perhaps you are exaggerating.
Try driving a car with only front disc brakes and then say rear drums do nothing.
Also, you can't put big brakes on the font without going disc on the rear. If you do, you'll unbalance your braking system so badly, it will be as if you have no brakes on the rear at all and you're much more likely to lose control of the car when braking.
Try driving a car with only front disc brakes and then say rear drums do nothing.
Also, you can't put big brakes on the font without going disc on the rear. If you do, you'll unbalance your braking system so badly, it will be as if you have no brakes on the rear at all and you're much more likely to lose control of the car when braking.
KiwiP10
08-19-2002, 06:39 AM
What would actually be needed to do this swap? ie rotors, catapilers/pistons etc... say I could get the bits from a wreck wot else would I need?
Cheers
Cheers
shadowboy
08-20-2002, 08:36 AM
Originally posted by Ebranste
Also, you can't put big brakes on the font without going disc on the rear. If you do, you'll unbalance your braking system so badly, it will be as if you have no brakes on the rear at all and you're much more likely to lose control of the car when braking.
resulting in understeer, which is intuitive and easy to control
Also, you can't put big brakes on the font without going disc on the rear. If you do, you'll unbalance your braking system so badly, it will be as if you have no brakes on the rear at all and you're much more likely to lose control of the car when braking.
resulting in understeer, which is intuitive and easy to control
shadowboy
08-20-2002, 08:40 AM
Originally posted by Ebranste
It will help your nose-dive problem, but not very much. You'll need a combination of replacing your shocks and struts, at least in the front as well as a rear disc conversion.
The idea is that when your car nose dives, it puts more wieght on the from end and makes it easier for you to lose traction. This causes your front brakes to lock more easily. Converting the rear to disc brakes will reduce the workload on your front brakes, but the nose dive when braking hard will still cause a loss of traction on the front end.
Costs........$200 for parts-rear disc conversion. Ask around for labor or DIYS.
New shocks and struts. $500 for parts assuming your install it yourself and aren;t looking fora sport or racing lowered suspension.
i am normally not like this, but
but this post is wrong, ill-informed, retarded, and incredibly so, and on so many accounts. go take a physics class. more weight on your tires means MORE traction. by your logic a FWD car should also have more traction for acceleration because the weight would shift to the rear and on a RWD car the drive wheels would lose traction. it is VERY, and i repeat VERY common knowledge that the wheels that have more weight on them, have more traction
also the brakes are biased towards the front so the front brakes CAN do more work.
also if you pay that much for your parts, you obviously do not shop around
Ok Ive seen alot of people Swapping out The Shitty Drum Brakes in
The 88-91 Honda civics now I want IN
Can I convert The Rear drums on the 88 civic Wagon 4x4 to Disk Brakes . What parts do I need If it can be done to this car, And what problems can I face doing the conversion, Is It worth the Trouble.
Im only asking Cause I need REALLY GOOD STOPPING POWER
Since Im REALLY HEAVY on The GAS. Usually When I slam on the brakes my Front wheels lock Bringing forth The 2 flat spots on the front tires, which cause vibration when im on the highway. Will Disk brakes in the rear Equal out the Braking in the front and provide Even Stopping power? Let a Fellow Ricer Know What is the Deal
i do not exactly know how possible this is. for starters, this is the 71-87 civic forum.. so you are posting in the wrong place to begin with.
secondly, b/c your wagon is 4WD, i do not know if you can use rear discs. if you had a normal FWD wagon you could take the rear discs off a later CRX Si, or an integra, but because of the drive axles in the rear, i am not sure how it would work.
for example, to do rear discs in the 84-87 civic you need to use quite a bit of the rear suspension of the 86-89 integra, including the rear hubs & axle. your 88-91 civic obviously won't be getting a rear axle from a 90-93 integra, but if you have to use the 90-93 integra rear hub to get the rear discs, they may not accept the rear drive axles (as the 90-93 integra was never 4wd). again, i do not know the details for i am not quite as familiar with the 88-91 civic or 90-93 integra as i am the 84-87/86-89
It will help your nose-dive problem, but not very much. You'll need a combination of replacing your shocks and struts, at least in the front as well as a rear disc conversion.
The idea is that when your car nose dives, it puts more wieght on the from end and makes it easier for you to lose traction. This causes your front brakes to lock more easily. Converting the rear to disc brakes will reduce the workload on your front brakes, but the nose dive when braking hard will still cause a loss of traction on the front end.
Costs........$200 for parts-rear disc conversion. Ask around for labor or DIYS.
New shocks and struts. $500 for parts assuming your install it yourself and aren;t looking fora sport or racing lowered suspension.
i am normally not like this, but
but this post is wrong, ill-informed, retarded, and incredibly so, and on so many accounts. go take a physics class. more weight on your tires means MORE traction. by your logic a FWD car should also have more traction for acceleration because the weight would shift to the rear and on a RWD car the drive wheels would lose traction. it is VERY, and i repeat VERY common knowledge that the wheels that have more weight on them, have more traction
also the brakes are biased towards the front so the front brakes CAN do more work.
also if you pay that much for your parts, you obviously do not shop around
Ok Ive seen alot of people Swapping out The Shitty Drum Brakes in
The 88-91 Honda civics now I want IN
Can I convert The Rear drums on the 88 civic Wagon 4x4 to Disk Brakes . What parts do I need If it can be done to this car, And what problems can I face doing the conversion, Is It worth the Trouble.
Im only asking Cause I need REALLY GOOD STOPPING POWER
Since Im REALLY HEAVY on The GAS. Usually When I slam on the brakes my Front wheels lock Bringing forth The 2 flat spots on the front tires, which cause vibration when im on the highway. Will Disk brakes in the rear Equal out the Braking in the front and provide Even Stopping power? Let a Fellow Ricer Know What is the Deal
i do not exactly know how possible this is. for starters, this is the 71-87 civic forum.. so you are posting in the wrong place to begin with.
secondly, b/c your wagon is 4WD, i do not know if you can use rear discs. if you had a normal FWD wagon you could take the rear discs off a later CRX Si, or an integra, but because of the drive axles in the rear, i am not sure how it would work.
for example, to do rear discs in the 84-87 civic you need to use quite a bit of the rear suspension of the 86-89 integra, including the rear hubs & axle. your 88-91 civic obviously won't be getting a rear axle from a 90-93 integra, but if you have to use the 90-93 integra rear hub to get the rear discs, they may not accept the rear drive axles (as the 90-93 integra was never 4wd). again, i do not know the details for i am not quite as familiar with the 88-91 civic or 90-93 integra as i am the 84-87/86-89
Gasoline Fumes
08-20-2002, 10:57 PM
There's a Yahoo! Group dedicated to Civic Wagons that might be helpful.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hondacivicwagons/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hondacivicwagons/
FourthGenHatch
10-12-2002, 12:51 PM
http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/reardiscswap.html
Thats my How-To on the rear discs. Its probably the best one you will find on the net.
However I doubt you can do it since you have rear axels and unless you someone modified the integra trailing arms to fit your axels in then it can't be done. But I think the Wagon trailing arms were unique to the Wagon only so I think you out of luck.
If you want better braking get DOT 4 Fluid, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, and good pads and rotors and that will help a lot.
Rear Discs do help in braking, after my swap its much better.
Thats my How-To on the rear discs. Its probably the best one you will find on the net.
However I doubt you can do it since you have rear axels and unless you someone modified the integra trailing arms to fit your axels in then it can't be done. But I think the Wagon trailing arms were unique to the Wagon only so I think you out of luck.
If you want better braking get DOT 4 Fluid, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, and good pads and rotors and that will help a lot.
Rear Discs do help in braking, after my swap its much better.
Gen3_rAcR
09-08-2003, 02:35 AM
http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/reardiscswap.html
Thats my How-To on the rear discs. Its probably the best one you will find on the net.
hey, do you think that would work for my accord?
Thats my How-To on the rear discs. Its probably the best one you will find on the net.
hey, do you think that would work for my accord?
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