Need some help with my alternator

Okay, my cars alternator died, and it killed the battery. i've decided to take the task of replacing it on myself.
Can anyone offer any advice on how to do this?.
I know where it is, and it looks like its only attached by a few small bolts, and these 2 plugs. aside from having that belt around it.
I figure if i unscrew the alt i can remove it from the belt while keeping the tension on it the same for when i install the new one. Ive just never done this before so any information you guys can lend would be much appreciated.

-94' cavalier v4 i believe
-its only got 30k miles on it, should the alternator have gone? it is 10 years old too tho.

Thanks again.

-Daniel Mc.

Easy -
1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the belt by moving the tensioner with a 15mm offset wrench.

3. unplug and unbolt the old unit.

4. plug in and bolt in the new one.

5. Put the belt back on.

6. Reconnect the battery.

7. Take pride in a job well done.

By the way this engine is a L4 or inline 4 not a V4. No American car I know of has a V4 in production.

Good Luck.

thats what i was thinking. how do i unplug those 2 plugs though. and how will i know which spots to plug them into on the new alternator, are they at all labeled. When i was looking around in the engine they seemed pretty firm in place, i just dont want to tear them out.
Also, would you know where i can find the tensioner, i kinda have an idea but if you could reasure me i would be greatful. And where can i get a 15mm offset wrench. i have a decent amount of tools but i havent even heard of one of those honestly, maybe they are only for auto work? i dont know. thanks for the help though and i look forward to more.

thanks again.

-Daniel Mc.

A belt tensioner tool can be loaned from AutoZone for free. The tensioner is the pulley that is not attached to an accessory(AC,Power steering pump,etc..) The plugs have a clip on the side, lift this clip a little with a small screwdriver and the plug will slide out. They will only fit in the right plug on the new unit. If you cannot get to AutoZone to borrow a tool an offsett wrench can be gotten at most parts stores or stores that sell tools like Home Depot or Sears. Here is a link: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00943369000&subcat=Wrenches


a little expensive because it is the ratchet type. A straight one is usually under $5

got another question which might stop me from replacing the alternator. My car is dead and wont start because of the alt/battery problem. But if i sit in my car i notice a quiet highpitched noise coming from i think the fusebox, my car is pretty tight and i could only identify the general area of where it was coming from. it was underneath the steering column to the left (where my fusebox is kind of). Just wondering what could this mean. I may end up taking it to a mechanic because of this cause i have to go on a little bit of a roadtrip and i dont want this to be the underlying problem and have it blow up on me while im on the road.
thanks again.

-Daniel Mc.

also. the noise will stop if i do something which taxes the battery. such as turn on the headlights or press on the horn. None of them actually work(i.e. the headlights dont actually turn on and the horn doesnt actually honk, even thought im pressing on it) when i stop pressing the horn or turn off the lights the noise comes back. it puzzels me. Also i know there is an alternator problem because i called triple A for a jump and they hooked up a charger to charge my battery alittle bit, i could start my car with the charger on and it would run, but as soon as he would remove that charger the car would stall. So it was my guess that the battery was completely dead and the alternator wasnt working at all. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks again.

-Daniel Mc.

sorry, got to add another question. anyone know an average price for a mechanic to install an alternator, i was quoted about 190$ from a place by me. im going to call up goodyear tomorrow, if no one turns up cheaper i may have to just do it myself. the 190 was with a rebuilt alt. Anyone know what a regular rebuilt alt would cost me if i choose to do it myself?

thanks again.
-Daniel Mc.

also... would i really need that 15mm wrench? i mean, if i just unbolt the alt and move it alittle wont i be able to move it away from the belt, thus not needing that wrench? i mean, it sounds doable honestly.

note, i couldnt find the tensioner bar, im going to give a better look tomorrow, but if its on the idler pulley, how would i go about loosening the tension?

I might be possible to do without the wrench as you describe. Or you may be able to get a ratchet and socket on the tensioner. When you unbolt the alternator it will only move a small amount and the tensioner is spring loaded so it will pull the belt tight and make this difficult. Check the Autozone (or what ever store you have in your area) website for a price but I would guess around $100 for a good one with a lifetime warranty.

The noise you are hearing is the door chime. It is the tone or beep you hear when you leave the keys in the ignition, leave your lights on, etc.. It is making that noise due to low voltage. Charge the battery and it will stop. This alternator job only takes about 10 minutes including clean up.

1- the noise was made when ever nothing was in use(the lights and door etc were closed) the only way to stop the noise was to actually turn on the lights etc. (this is with my key both in and out of the ignition)

2- the noise has since stopped(is the bat completely dead)?

3-Can i just keep the tension on the serpentine belt with a prybar or something of the sort.?

4-If i do decide to go about loosening the serpentine belt i dont think i have the tensioner bar, i think it is just on the idler pulley. How would i go about loosening it from there.

thank you all youve been such great helps lol. i am just trying to get home for chrismas break, thanks again.

-Daniel Mc.

The chime gets weird due to low voltage. Yes the battery is completely dead now. Charge it. Most parts store will do this for free. It takes 8 hours or so depending upon their charger. The counterman will tell you how long it will take. You must charge it before you start the motor with the new alternator.

You do have a spring loaded tensioner. It is MUCH easier to put a tool on it and rotate it out of the way. A pry bar can damage the belt,and can be hard to hold in position. If the pry bar slips the the tensioner will snap and can damage itself and maybe you. You can use the pry bar in a pinch but for a $5 wrench I would not recommend it.

okay. thanks for the info, when i loosen this tensioner bar what happens, i mean. do i just unscrew the bolt and it gives me slack on the belt? and just screw it back tighter to tighten the belt? Can you offer me up some instructions as to how to use this wrench to loosen the bar. thanks again.

No you don't unscrew it, it is on a spring. You pull it around to take tension off the belt. You lift the belt off the alternator pulley and slowly release the tensioner. With the belt off the alternator it will rotate farther around. When you have the new alt installed you rotate the tensioner around again until you can get the belt on the alternator pulley. Now you release the tensioner slowly again. It will be restrained in its movement by the belt. Remove your wrench and you are done.

would i just be able to pull the bar with my hand? or will that result in injury or be too tough.

Yes, it is made to be moved by hand with a wrench 8 inches or longer. This gives you enough leverage to move it without difficulty.

also... any tips as per how to get the wires off? do i just jimmy them up with a screw driver? or do i have to be more careful.

Dont jimmy anything. Look closely at the plug. You will see a clip made onto one half of the plug. You use a small screwdriver to get the clip to release. While holding this the plug will slide right out. It will have a little friction due to a seal inside the plug.

question. i noticed this on one of the plugs, but on the remaining one it looks like it had a rubber cover over it that seems pretty firmly attached to the alternator itself. There wasnt any clips on that other one.

You are looking on the back of the alt. That is a boot to protect the battery wire. The boot is a stretch fit to keep out water and dirt. Pop that off and you will see a single wire attached with a small nut on a stud. I think it is a 10mm. Not very tight so it will come off easy.

ok so to put it back on, do i just push that wraping back onto it as well?
also, these are the only 2 wires correct? its the only 2 ive seen

You got it. Just relax You are on your way the the coveted title of "Shadetree Mokanic"

dont get it, but awsome. thanks again for all the help

further question.
I looked hard at the engine today, there isnt a tensioner bar. So what does that mean. I know you told me that there is, but you also said on that other post that the older models without the tensioner bar have it on the idler pulley. I applied some pressure to the idler one and it didnt really move at all, i didnt want to throw all my weight on it cause i wasnt to sure but... what to do now? and if it is on the idler do i just use the same tool and go about it the same way.

if you don't have the tensioner bar... lean over the passenger side front fender and while turning the wrench on the idler pully...turn/push down clockwise and it should move. You have to excert a little more force than you think...

oh. i didnt have a wrench i was just handing it. the only wrench i can get my hands on currently is a c-wrench, i dont know how well that will work but ill give it a good shot right after i finish up some finals i have today. thanks again.
i really hope i dont need that pullbar for the belt, it would save me about a mile walk lol. thanks for all the help.

-Daniel Mc.

i plan to take out both the battery and the alternator and take them both to autozone, have them charge the batt and check the alt this way i dont replace anything that isnt needed. if they say the alt is fine (which i doubt) ill just take it to a mechanic cause i have no idea from there.

yea thanks for all the info, it turns real nicely even with my c-wrench, it doesnt make the best fit cause its on an angle but its not like im stripping it so it'l be fine. thanks for all the help im taking it out tomorrow night.

-Daniel Mc.

is there anything i need to know about transporting a batt and alt? im just gonna put them in bags. that gonna be okay?

That is fine. Sorry for the bad humor. I can't quit my day job yet. :slap:

umm, not to sound rude at all.... but with such a lack of understanding of a belt tensioner, i would advise paying the little extra, and have a mechanic do it....all your looking at, is an extra 80 bucks or so, wich is the hourly rate of most mechs. jut my 2 cents...

umm, not to sound rude at all.... but with such a lack of understanding of a belt tensioner, i would advise paying the little extra, and have a mechanic do it....all your looking at, is an extra 80 bucks or so, wich is the hourly rate of most mechs. jut my 2 cents...

Completely agree, buddy you are going to hurt yourself, your car or both. It's not worth it. It's not a job for a beginner not unless your are talking 50's car with nothing but the fan and alternator and water pump being driven by a v-belt and then the alternator is on an adjustable bracket and you can do it all with ONE wrench!!!