revin till 8.000rpm
Veetec
03-02-2002, 12:14 PM
Is it true that I can rev till 8.000rpm sometimes without hurting the engine (5th gen) ? I mean normally Iīm not doing that but sometimes itīs "too" fast up there. Iīm sure youīll know what Iīm talking about! ;)
buh_buh
03-02-2002, 03:04 PM
Well the rev limiter kicks in at 8k rpm. I don't think you'll hurt the engine by revving to there, since the rev limiter won't let you rev past that point. Isn't the whole point of the rev limiter so you won't rev past a point where you can hurt your engine? That's what I thought. I like revving to 8k rpm. It makes me feel good :D
I think the only problem with revving to 8k rpm is that you can't powershift if your racing someone.
I think the only problem with revving to 8k rpm is that you can't powershift if your racing someone.
fritz_269
03-04-2002, 02:59 PM
Your redline is at 7400 RPM. This is the maximum RPM you should ever intentionally put on the engine.
The rev-limiter is at 8000 RPM, and is just there to save your a$$ in case you make a mistake (like miss a quick shift). It is NOT GOOD to hit the rev-limiter; it shuts off the fuel injectors which leans out the mixture for a couple of cycles usually giving you a couple of hard detonations - at 8000 RPM! Not the most healthy thing (although it's still better than overrevving and throwing a rod). This is why they give you a 600 RPM cushion past redline; it's not there for you to use intentionally - it's there to protect your engine.
Also - you shouldn't be powershifting with only the stock rev-limiter in place (for the reason above). If you must powershift, pick up a decent aftermarket ignition system with a "sequential rev-limiter" - and set it for something like 7700 RPM. This will drop sparks, not fuel. You'll bang into a rich condition, not a lean one; the engine won't detonate and it'll recover faster.
:cool:
The rev-limiter is at 8000 RPM, and is just there to save your a$$ in case you make a mistake (like miss a quick shift). It is NOT GOOD to hit the rev-limiter; it shuts off the fuel injectors which leans out the mixture for a couple of cycles usually giving you a couple of hard detonations - at 8000 RPM! Not the most healthy thing (although it's still better than overrevving and throwing a rod). This is why they give you a 600 RPM cushion past redline; it's not there for you to use intentionally - it's there to protect your engine.
Also - you shouldn't be powershifting with only the stock rev-limiter in place (for the reason above). If you must powershift, pick up a decent aftermarket ignition system with a "sequential rev-limiter" - and set it for something like 7700 RPM. This will drop sparks, not fuel. You'll bang into a rich condition, not a lean one; the engine won't detonate and it'll recover faster.
:cool:
Veetec
03-04-2002, 06:18 PM
Originally posted by fritz_269
Your redline is at 7400 RPM. This is the maximum RPM you should ever intentionally put on the engine.
The rev-limiter is at 8000 RPM, and is just there to save your a$$ in case you make a mistake (like miss a quick shift). It is NOT GOOD to hit the rev-limiter; it shuts off the fuel injectors which leans out the mixture for a couple of cycles usually giving you a couple of hard detonations - at 8000 RPM! Not the most healthy thing (although it's still better than overrevving and throwing a rod). This is why they give you a 600 RPM cushion past redline; it's not there for you to use intentionally - it's there to protect your engine.
Also - you shouldn't be powershifting with only the stock rev-limiter in place (for the reason above). If you must powershift, pick up a decent aftermarket ignition system with a "sequential rev-limiter" - and set it for something like 7700 RPM. This will drop sparks, not fuel. You'll bang into a rich condition, not a lean one; the engine won't detonate and it'll recover faster.
:cool: I would NEVER rev till 8.000 on purpose. But some days ago Iīve done it accidentally and it shut off the fuel injectors like you wrote above! I just wanted to know if anything worse can happen if itīs happening sometimes. (Normally it doesnīt happen,...I hope! :D )
Powershifting means to shift very fast, doesnīt it? :confused: Which aftermarket ignition system would you recommend, what is its price and how difficult is it to install??
By the way, will stuff like `Slick 50ī or anything like that really protect my engine? Or what other stuff could I use to protect my engine from being damaged?
Thanx for the good info!! :)
Your redline is at 7400 RPM. This is the maximum RPM you should ever intentionally put on the engine.
The rev-limiter is at 8000 RPM, and is just there to save your a$$ in case you make a mistake (like miss a quick shift). It is NOT GOOD to hit the rev-limiter; it shuts off the fuel injectors which leans out the mixture for a couple of cycles usually giving you a couple of hard detonations - at 8000 RPM! Not the most healthy thing (although it's still better than overrevving and throwing a rod). This is why they give you a 600 RPM cushion past redline; it's not there for you to use intentionally - it's there to protect your engine.
Also - you shouldn't be powershifting with only the stock rev-limiter in place (for the reason above). If you must powershift, pick up a decent aftermarket ignition system with a "sequential rev-limiter" - and set it for something like 7700 RPM. This will drop sparks, not fuel. You'll bang into a rich condition, not a lean one; the engine won't detonate and it'll recover faster.
:cool: I would NEVER rev till 8.000 on purpose. But some days ago Iīve done it accidentally and it shut off the fuel injectors like you wrote above! I just wanted to know if anything worse can happen if itīs happening sometimes. (Normally it doesnīt happen,...I hope! :D )
Powershifting means to shift very fast, doesnīt it? :confused: Which aftermarket ignition system would you recommend, what is its price and how difficult is it to install??
By the way, will stuff like `Slick 50ī or anything like that really protect my engine? Or what other stuff could I use to protect my engine from being damaged?
Thanx for the good info!! :)
Veetec
03-04-2002, 09:37 PM
I had a look around for such an ignition system and Iīve found a `MSD Soft Touch Rev Controlī which seems to do exactly what youīve told me except that I would have to set it on 8.000rpm because it only has got three different level (6.000, 7.000 and 8.000rpm). Is this what you mean? How difficult is it to install and to set it up properly and would I need any other parts for the installation? Are there any better versions of this system which are worth to think about? Does my car has got a standard pint ignition or inductive ignition system (I canīt translate it so I donīt have got any idea what it means!! :confused: )? Sorry for all the questions but this system seems to be very useful and I need any info I can get. Thanx in advance! :)
cybercrx00
03-05-2002, 11:38 AM
suxks to be me then, in a usual race I have to run it out in first to about 7700-7800 rpms to shift into second and stay in vtec, but I think this may be an altitude thing because in phx it was a lot easier to stay in vtec.
Veetec
03-06-2002, 11:30 AM
Originally posted by Veetec
I had a look around for such an ignition system and Iīve found a `MSD Soft Touch Rev Controlī which seems to do exactly what youīve told me except that I would have to set it on 8.000rpm because it only has got three different level (6.000, 7.000 and 8.000rpm). Is this what you mean? How difficult is it to install and to set it up properly and would I need any other parts for the installation? Are there any better versions of this system which are worth to think about? Does my car has got a standard pint ignition or inductive ignition system (I canīt translate it so I donīt have got any idea what it means!! :confused: )? Sorry for all the questions but this system seems to be very useful and I need any info I can get. Thanx in advance! :) Anybody knows anything about that? :confused:
I had a look around for such an ignition system and Iīve found a `MSD Soft Touch Rev Controlī which seems to do exactly what youīve told me except that I would have to set it on 8.000rpm because it only has got three different level (6.000, 7.000 and 8.000rpm). Is this what you mean? How difficult is it to install and to set it up properly and would I need any other parts for the installation? Are there any better versions of this system which are worth to think about? Does my car has got a standard pint ignition or inductive ignition system (I canīt translate it so I donīt have got any idea what it means!! :confused: )? Sorry for all the questions but this system seems to be very useful and I need any info I can get. Thanx in advance! :) Anybody knows anything about that? :confused:
cybercrx00
03-06-2002, 12:40 PM
it only takes about 20 min to wire up an MSD 6-series ignition into most honda's, so I guess it is not that hard. I haven't put one on a honda with an external coil yet, but I would imagine it is even easier. I think the MSD that you are talking about is the 6AL, so it should be simple
fritz_269
03-06-2002, 04:24 PM
Veetec - Powershifting is shifting without lifting off the throttle. This means that the engine is in neutral at full throttle for as long as the clutch is disengaged - i.e. it's banging against the rev-limiter for the entire shift. May improve your times, but generally a pretty bad thing to do to your drivetrain.
Slick 50 is pretty much a scam. The Federal Trade Comission sucessfully sued them for false advertising. Most of the other oil 'additives' have been sucessfully sued as well (prolong, duralube, Zmax, etc.) http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/additives.html Just use good oil.
MSD 6AL ignition with 'soft-touch' rev-control should work fine for you - it's adjustable by "pills". It comes with four pills (3, 6, 7, & 8000 RPM), but you can buy any number of pills seperately which are sold in 100 RPM increments. The Crane HI-6R would be good choice too.
cybercrx00 - you're right, you can't stay in vtec if you shift at redline from 1->2. The solution to this is a vtec controller, not overreving the engine.
Slick 50 is pretty much a scam. The Federal Trade Comission sucessfully sued them for false advertising. Most of the other oil 'additives' have been sucessfully sued as well (prolong, duralube, Zmax, etc.) http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/additives.html Just use good oil.
MSD 6AL ignition with 'soft-touch' rev-control should work fine for you - it's adjustable by "pills". It comes with four pills (3, 6, 7, & 8000 RPM), but you can buy any number of pills seperately which are sold in 100 RPM increments. The Crane HI-6R would be good choice too.
cybercrx00 - you're right, you can't stay in vtec if you shift at redline from 1->2. The solution to this is a vtec controller, not overreving the engine.
Veetec
03-06-2002, 09:45 PM
Originally posted by fritz_269
Veetec - Powershifting is shifting without lifting off the throttle. This means that the engine is in neutral at full throttle for as long as the clutch is disengaged - i.e. it's banging against the rev-limiter for the entire shift. May improve your times, but generally a pretty bad thing to do to your drivetrain.
Slick 50 is pretty much a scam. The Federal Trade Comission sucessfully sued them for false advertising. Most of the other oil 'additives' have been sucessfully sued as well (prolong, duralube, Zmax, etc.) http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/additives.html Just use good oil.
MSD 6AL ignition with 'soft-touch' rev-control should work fine for you - it's adjustable by "pills". It comes with four pills (3, 6, 7, & 8000 RPM), but you can buy any number of pills seperately which are sold in 100 RPM increments. The Crane HI-6R would be good choice too.
cybercrx00 - you're right, you can't stay in vtec if you shift at redline from 1->2. The solution to this is a vtec controller, not overreving the engine. I had a look at Options Auto Salon and the Crane HI-6 costs $266!!! Is it really worth to buy it for a stock engine?? Arenīt there any cheaper alternatives? Why donīt most people use it then? :confused:
Veetec - Powershifting is shifting without lifting off the throttle. This means that the engine is in neutral at full throttle for as long as the clutch is disengaged - i.e. it's banging against the rev-limiter for the entire shift. May improve your times, but generally a pretty bad thing to do to your drivetrain.
Slick 50 is pretty much a scam. The Federal Trade Comission sucessfully sued them for false advertising. Most of the other oil 'additives' have been sucessfully sued as well (prolong, duralube, Zmax, etc.) http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/additives.html Just use good oil.
MSD 6AL ignition with 'soft-touch' rev-control should work fine for you - it's adjustable by "pills". It comes with four pills (3, 6, 7, & 8000 RPM), but you can buy any number of pills seperately which are sold in 100 RPM increments. The Crane HI-6R would be good choice too.
cybercrx00 - you're right, you can't stay in vtec if you shift at redline from 1->2. The solution to this is a vtec controller, not overreving the engine. I had a look at Options Auto Salon and the Crane HI-6 costs $266!!! Is it really worth to buy it for a stock engine?? Arenīt there any cheaper alternatives? Why donīt most people use it then? :confused:
fritz_269
03-07-2002, 02:21 PM
Summit Racing ( www.sumitracing.com )
Sells the Crane HI-6S for $135, the Crane HI-6R for $249, the MSD 6AL for $195, and the MSD SCI-L for $249.
The 6S is an inductive discharge unit good to 8,000RPM, the 6R uses capacitve discharge which has a stronger spark and is good to 12,000RPM. Both are multi-spark and I think either will plug right into your existing harness.
The only difference between the 6AL and the SCI-L is that the SCI comes with the appropriate wiring harness and connectors for your car, you'd have to splice and solder wires from the 6AL. (The SCI is also chrome instead of red :rolleyes: ) Both are multi-spark capacitve discharge units good to 15,000 RPM.
For the MSD ignitions, you'll also have to buy the 'pills' for the rev-limiter. To get the range of 7000-8000 RPM in 100RPM increments (10 pills) will run you $42! The Crane has a dial switch built in.
And of course, you'll have to buy the matching coil for either ignition.
A good choice for the MSD would be MSD's "Blaster HVC" - $109 at summit. For the Crane HI-6R use the LX92 coil - $59 at summit; for the HI-6S, use the LX91 coil - $49 at summit.
In the end, I think that the Crane is by far the better deal. I've also heard anecdotally that it is slightly more reliable and has much better timing accuracy than the MSD. Here's Crane's argument: http://www.cranecams.com/whatsnew/hi6vsmsd.htm
Oh - and if you currently have an internal coil, you'll of course have to replace the distributor cap too, both MSD and Crane offer replacements.
Sells the Crane HI-6S for $135, the Crane HI-6R for $249, the MSD 6AL for $195, and the MSD SCI-L for $249.
The 6S is an inductive discharge unit good to 8,000RPM, the 6R uses capacitve discharge which has a stronger spark and is good to 12,000RPM. Both are multi-spark and I think either will plug right into your existing harness.
The only difference between the 6AL and the SCI-L is that the SCI comes with the appropriate wiring harness and connectors for your car, you'd have to splice and solder wires from the 6AL. (The SCI is also chrome instead of red :rolleyes: ) Both are multi-spark capacitve discharge units good to 15,000 RPM.
For the MSD ignitions, you'll also have to buy the 'pills' for the rev-limiter. To get the range of 7000-8000 RPM in 100RPM increments (10 pills) will run you $42! The Crane has a dial switch built in.
And of course, you'll have to buy the matching coil for either ignition.
A good choice for the MSD would be MSD's "Blaster HVC" - $109 at summit. For the Crane HI-6R use the LX92 coil - $59 at summit; for the HI-6S, use the LX91 coil - $49 at summit.
In the end, I think that the Crane is by far the better deal. I've also heard anecdotally that it is slightly more reliable and has much better timing accuracy than the MSD. Here's Crane's argument: http://www.cranecams.com/whatsnew/hi6vsmsd.htm
Oh - and if you currently have an internal coil, you'll of course have to replace the distributor cap too, both MSD and Crane offer replacements.
fritz_269
03-07-2002, 02:23 PM
Originally posted by Veetec
Arenīt there any cheaper alternatives?
Yes. Stay stock and stay off the stock rev-limiter.
:cool:
Arenīt there any cheaper alternatives?
Yes. Stay stock and stay off the stock rev-limiter.
:cool:
Veetec
03-09-2002, 06:47 AM
Originally posted by fritz_269
Yes. Stay stock and stay off the stock rev-limiter.
:cool: Okay! :D
Yes. Stay stock and stay off the stock rev-limiter.
:cool: Okay! :D
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