dash lights and window fuse keeps blowing PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
sidewalkskater
12-09-2004, 01:45 AM
A few months ago I disconnected my rear window wiper on my 1987 cherokee and i just re-connected it and as soon as I got in my car and started driving i noticed my dash lights, clock, and windows wouldnt work. I checked the fuse and saw that it was blown and so i replaced it. The dash lights everything worked for about 5 secconds then went out again so i tried it a third time and the same thing happend. My dad thinks its a short and im not sure that its at all connected with the rear wiper but im not that great with cars and im not sure what to look for or what so can anyone PLEASE help me. Im still in high school and dont have much money to go pay someone to do it and my dad knows some what about cars but were both stumped so please anyone
Teaman3
12-09-2004, 08:24 PM
I'm a little surprised the rear wiper is sharing the same fuse as the dash lights and window motor.
There could be a short, the fuse may be the wrong rating or the wiper should be connected to another circuit.
Disconnect the wiper and fit a new fuse. If it doesn't blow, it's the wiper wiring. If it still blows you'll have to trace the wiring. In either case, the fault will have to traced (if not evident) with a multimeter set to low ohms or diode test. You'll also need the wiring diagram, so you'll have to buy a manual eg Chilton or Haynes.
A short will register as zero or near zero (1 or 2) ohms on the meter (touch the prods together and you'll see what it will read as a test).
Look for any bare wire near metal and corroded or loose earth wires too.
There could be a short, the fuse may be the wrong rating or the wiper should be connected to another circuit.
Disconnect the wiper and fit a new fuse. If it doesn't blow, it's the wiper wiring. If it still blows you'll have to trace the wiring. In either case, the fault will have to traced (if not evident) with a multimeter set to low ohms or diode test. You'll also need the wiring diagram, so you'll have to buy a manual eg Chilton or Haynes.
A short will register as zero or near zero (1 or 2) ohms on the meter (touch the prods together and you'll see what it will read as a test).
Look for any bare wire near metal and corroded or loose earth wires too.
Stick89
12-12-2004, 10:56 AM
Does this only happen when the lights are turned on?
I had a similar situation on my 89'...When I would turn on my headlights,the dash lights and the tail lights would not work n the only fuse blown was the inst pnl fuse.
Culprit was the chime module.the wires inside had shorted out causing the abovr mentioned problems.
You can pull the module,to see if that is the problem.It will not affect anything other than the buzzer that buzzes when you leave your keys in
the ignition.
The chime module on mine was in the lower left corner of the fuse panel.
Might wanna look in a Haynes manual to b e sure.
There is a release tab to the left that will allow you to pull the module out.Replace the blown fuse and then turn on the lights.If they stay on and everything is working....that was the problem..
If not,then you got a short some where....time to start tracing wires
I had a similar situation on my 89'...When I would turn on my headlights,the dash lights and the tail lights would not work n the only fuse blown was the inst pnl fuse.
Culprit was the chime module.the wires inside had shorted out causing the abovr mentioned problems.
You can pull the module,to see if that is the problem.It will not affect anything other than the buzzer that buzzes when you leave your keys in
the ignition.
The chime module on mine was in the lower left corner of the fuse panel.
Might wanna look in a Haynes manual to b e sure.
There is a release tab to the left that will allow you to pull the module out.Replace the blown fuse and then turn on the lights.If they stay on and everything is working....that was the problem..
If not,then you got a short some where....time to start tracing wires
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