B20B Help

I have searched and found 29 topics that give not much info. I wanted to know what I have to do exactly for wireing a B20B w an OBD1 ls ecu into a 91 DX hatch. Also what size catback shoujld I get for a 2.0 litre? One more thing, ive never done a swap before and I was wondering whats done to the fuses? I figure they need to be changed but how would I know which to use?

Read this: http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86612
You don't have to do anything with the fuses.

ight thanx for the help, but one more question, the car is OBD-0, the ECU is OBD-1 and the B20B is OBD-2 right? So how would I go doin that.

You'd have to convert the motor over to OBD-1: (6th post down) http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=550976
Sounds like a major pain in the ass to me man, you've got more ballz than I do to go thru all the trouble for 126hp 133tq motor. What are you doing to it? CRV/vtec, NA or turbo?

Ya I know its gunna be a pain in the ass, im expecting that. But i just hope that installing it, wires and all will be less than $3500. I made a list for just dropping it in and a lil extras....
B20 Block-800$
OBD1 LS Head or Manifold w/valve cover-350$
Cold Air Intake-40$
Headers-120$
Cam Gears- AEM Adjustable Cam Gears-210$
LS Transmission-300$
P75 LS ECU -40$
“B” Series Engine Mounts/Linkage-400$
Axels-500$
Spark Plugs-20$
LS OBD-1 Distributor-
4 Wire O2 sensors-
Wires-40$
OBD-0 to OBDI Conversion Harness-140$

ya, but thats just adding it in, then later on I plan on buying parts piece by piece to add a turbo, plan on droppin about 8000 into the motor. Then when I have all the pieces im gunna take out the motor add the parts then drop it back in with new sleeves and a turbo. Those are my future plans, but for now I wanna just drop it in so I dont gatta worry about it later, mounts and all that.

man dont go filling this guys head wiht ideas about it being a PITA. the wiring is easy, if you have a b20 block you can use the b20 dist for obd1. and htat post isnt accurate because hes dropping it into a 4th gen not a 5th gen.

ok so first your car is a dx, you need to do the mpfi swap, now as for injectors if you plan on using the b20 injectors which i assume your using, they can be wired up to the ecu just like in the mpfi directions but when it comes to supplying hte power you dont run a resistor box, you take all 4 poewr wires from each injector and splice them together with the old power to the injectors so basically your putting 5 or 6 wires together. now for the dist same colors match up, just do the mpfi conversion the same just match up like colors, one of hte white wires goes to a grn/yel on the b20 dist, and you gotta add 3 wires for the o2 sensor. for the injectors i would recommend getting the plugs for because if they are obd2 injectors no other harness injector plugs will work. always good to have a harness so you can take plugs off of so it looks neat.

well I gatta ZC in it rite now, so the mpfi swap is already done. so i just skip all that and then what.

man dont go filling this guys head wiht ideas about it being a PITA. the wiring is easy, if you have a b20 block you can use the b20 dist for obd1. and htat post isnt accurate because hes dropping it into a 4th gen not a 5th gen.
Yeah I realize not all of that one like works for him. But he's putting a OBD2 motor into an OBD0 car. The distributor plugs on the b20 are not the same as the obd1 ones, hense the link I gave him about changing it to obd1. Also the alternator isn't going to work with it either. Apparently I should have specified for him to start reading from the first pic down. I assumed that the 2 links together, one being specifically for swapping a obd1 into an obd0 car and the other changing from obd2 to obd1 would be enough info for him to figure it out.

its makes it even easier that he has the mpfi done already.

keep your obd0 injectors and put them on whatever head your going to use. for the dist it doesnt matter if the plugs are different all you gotta do is either stick a obd2 plug on the chassis side or cut the obd2 plug and put the obd0 plug on the dist side, very simple. you match color for color but one of the white wires connects to a grn/yel wire on teh dist side. and for the o2, you need to add 3 wires to the o2 sensor.

yaeh the alt wiring and the coolant temp switch or whatever its called are the only things he has to worry about. the temp switch because on obd0 blocks in on the back of the block, on the obd2 its on the thermostat housing.

would it make sense, seeming how the B20 and B18 blocks are the same, to just use ls parts such as the alternator, distributor, ECU of course, and intake manifold? Because besides all those things I just listed what makes the motor OBD-II?