83 camero v6 2.8 engine dying

1983 v6 2.8L 2bbl automatic berlinetta brother bought new no problems until it sat for 2-3 years. he gave it to me in 1995 engine would occasionally stumble and die would (will) restart immediately. I have replaced all ignition parts except distributor including :ign module in dist, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, have also put on rebuilt carb, replaced temp sensor and wiring, o2 sensor, all vac hoses, fuel pump,Map sensor and computer. I have had engine codes of o2 sensor, throttle position sensor, map sensor. currently no codes and problem still exists. when the engine stumbles and dies it is usually around 1500 rpm when i pump the gas it catches and away it goes. it is better since the rebuilt carb. (rochester verijert II) professionally done . at this point i think it is fuel related. because when i pump accelerator it goes. all i see is fuel pump is the reason i replaced it before because it was leaking oil (I had it done) by mechanic. also the tranny was rebuilt a few years ago. it shifts smooth the car has 90K all synthetic oil any suggestions ?????

when was the last time you changed your fuel filter?

new fuel filter with new carb last week. i really dont think it is ignition related as when i pump gas pedal it responds or dies. how about if i disconnect the cruse control

i wouldnt start disconnecting stuff unless you have reason to think its causing the problem. I would say that there is something wrong with the carb, but im a Fuel Injection kinda guy so im just on the fly here.

what it sounds like is that your fuel bowls are going dry at idle, and then when you pump the gas your secondarys allow more fuel in richening the mixture and keeping the engine running. All i can do is describe a senario, keep in mind that my terminology could be wrong and everything, but that sounds possible to me based on what i know.

The rebuilt carb, who did the rebuild? what did it come off of? was it the original carb? was anything changed? Im lookin through all the stuff youve had done, and the carb is the only thing i can think of that could be the problem point. Im thinkin something internal is incorrect. but we need some carb guys on here to figure that out.

car will idle fine for hours, carb was rebuilt by champion carb rebuilders a major supplier of rebuilds. the engine purrs untilll this happens. i can drive for 10-15 miles and then bingo. it may happen once or several times in a row then be fine again. i feel it is fuel. the only parts not replaced are a idle speed dash pot. had to transfer it from old carb. this just slows the ilde speed drop when you remove your foot from the gas pedal, and the carb to manifold gasket. the orignal was a heated model about 5/16 inch thick. it was in bad shape had "a melted glass look to it" i replaced it with a non heated gasket. the car does not have to pass emissions the only other thing i can think of is the distributor. but i would think it would be happening all of the time with rough idle etc if it were the distributor help out there?????

thats a tough one... did you ever do anything regarding the error codes? new O2, new TPS, or new MAF???

thats a tough one... did you ever do anything regarding the error codes? new O2, new TPS, or new MAF???
yep, all codes cleared new o2 sensor, new tps w rebuilt carb., new map over the summer map code had two vac hoses crossed a coworker suggested the dist advance could be hanging bad spring or hanging weight. any thoughts out there !!!! getting desperate as son wants the car. just turned 16. and i want my 97 blazer back. he has it now. I'm driving daughters geo tracker, she is away at college and she will want it back over xmas break. got to have wheels!!!!

possible you got a weak/defective fuel pump?

thought I'd bring this up again . I have talked to two mechanics. One thinks fuel other thinks ignition! does anyone have any 83 v--6 experience? all vac lines good, etc. I lean toward fuel stravation but dont know. runs great at idle and only stalls intermittantly around 30-40 mph once every 20 or so miles. usally the stall or bog occurs in a series of them over a mile or so then all ok for many miles. no codes now after all of the repairs I have done. all that is left is distributor, egr, fuel line blow out or tank sock if ther is one. and emissions air circuits. help thanks berniescout (still wish I had by ihc scout 800 or scoutII --binder)

thought i'd repost. spring is near (I hope too much snow this year and I love snow) need to get this baby running. anybody have any thougts??? I have a rebuilt distributoer ready to go. has anybody done this is it tuff. anything special i need to know on the 2.8L. any thoughts on the egr possible causing the problem???

AS you were saying it stumbles at 1500 rpm well thats when about the EGR kicks in check your vac lines and maybe get a new aspesto's gasket and clean it out with a soft face [hate to say it] hammer and knock the carbon build up out of it make sure it at least moves[the vavle underneath ] at 1200 -1600 RPM If the valve moves and you have the same problem I would suspect the fuel pump But you also say you replaced the module did you apply dielectic grease underneath the mod before you installed if not the heat build up could cook it again or give you problems when hotter running conditions
edit: you should have a solinod valve for the EGR on the right side top of valve cover when standing looking at engine front cover[left valve cover] check it for shorts bare wires or not working I didn't think an 83 had one

AS you were saying it stumbles at 1500 rpm well thats when about the EGR kicks in check your vac lines and maybe get a new aspesto's gasket and clean it out with a soft face [hate to say it] hammer and knock the carbon build up out of it make sure it at least moves[the vavle underneath ] at 1200 -1600 RPM If the valve moves and you have the same problem I would suspect the fuel pump But you also say you replaced the module did you apply dielectic grease underneath the mod before you installed if not the heat build up could cook it again or give you problems when hotter running conditions
dielectric grease-yes. all vac lines ok egr sounds interesting fuel pump is new the stumble stall usually happens when car is at steady speed never happens during acceleration. never at idle always between 1500 and 2000 rpm good thing i have plenty of hair to pull out

I edited my post above read it

i did replace a vac control which i think is for the egr valve. it was brand new gm part . no change i may take it for a spin this week end and pay close attention to speed and tach if it happens. thanks.

Only one other thing I can think of [at the moment] is your dist shaft or gear is worn [shaft worn cause ground out sometimes on pick-up coil timer]gear could cause the lagg

that has been suggested. I have a rebuilt dist ready to go in it as soon i find someone to do it. any issues with doing it???

Not that hard just disconnect the battery so you won't try to start it by mistake Mark releasionship of rotor to engine[where it points to] mark bottom of dist and engine undo bolt[hold down] pull out when putting back in make sure your oil pump slot lines uo with dist gear slot and match your marks you will have to move your rotor by hand back or forth to achive this When you look in hole where shaft came out of you will see the oil pump shaft All you have to do is alline it right and match all your marks scribe them good

great thanks

here i go again. pulled old dist. found an orange or tan wire from from the dist wrapped around a mounting stud at rear of engine. the other wires were ok and routed correctly. must have been built this way. it was rubbed bare on the stud threads. therefore the wire was more than likely grounding out. replaced dist with rebuilt one . replaced egr valve old one was carboned but not too bad. with the wire repair i thougth all was goood . wrong. still have same problem with the stumble around 1500-2000 rpm intermittantley either driving at a steady speed or accelerating. so far the following has been done. fuel pump, dist, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, egr, egr solenoid, temp sensor, rebuilt carb, fuel filter, and computer. not much left. next thought is fuel system but where?? carcoal canister?? clogged fuel line?? any thouts out there maybe a clogged fuel cap vent. with new dist the car runs great except the stumble dropps to idle speed. then the engine catches check engine light is on but will not flash codes? since new dist. also replaced the map sensor and an oxygen sensor anybody have any experience with the heated carb gasket?? when i replaced the carb i used a non heated gasket, the old heated one wasn't working . i wonder if that could be the problem??? help help help thanks berniescout

I'm getting tired of this!!! today I got the maro timed. purrs running smooth as silk. at idle and all engine speeds when in park. then you go for a drive and same stumbling problem around 1500 2000 rpm. really thinking fuel. need to do a fuel pressure test next. I am wondering if i could have a pin hole in the fuel line in the tank not enough air sucked in at idle or not moving but when under load draws more air . need to see if problems goes away with full tank since I have done all this work. dhas anybody had a tank down? can your reach the intake to the tank through the floor of the maro behind the rear seat? should I pull back the carpet to see if there is access? I would think if i had a fuel leak in a line I would smell gas fumes?? what type of fuel inlet is there is there a fuel sock on it? today I changed gas caps and plugged all vac lines to carb from charcoal canister thinking I could have a vac leak still same problem help running out of places to look, time and $$$ thanks berniescout

anyone know which way the fuel filter goes into the carb? open end should face which way toward or away from carb? should the fuel flow from the outside to the inside of the filter? if so open end toward the carb any thoughts. also any thoughts to a intake manifold gasket leak???

straightened out egr ran seafoam through carb now runs great from idle to about 3500 rpm then it bogs and dies at about 3500 to 4000 rpm even in park in driveway. thinking now fuel delivery when i pump accelerator it catches will test fuel pump for volume and pressure today i hope any thoughts i will post results asap tnx bernie

just ran fuel pump pressure test dead ended fuel line before carb 5 1/2 psi "t" in line 2 psi at idle 1 psi at 4000 rpm seems to be plenty of volume no skips or stumbles at 4000 rpm i do have the vac hose to the thermatic sensor on air cleaner plugged any thoughts going to put ittogether and go for a ride any thoughts out there

Ive been away from the computer for a couple of months. got my problem solved in early August. had mechanic (2nd one) put it up on a lift and blow out the fuel lines. lots and lots of crap came out running like a champ now. has not missed a beat from 0 to 70 since then. now i need to adjust the choke a little. guess it was starving for fuel. any thoughts on adjusting the choke?? thanks to all

still running !!! she died again pulled paper filter in carb. loaded with rust installled new one and added a see through in line filter on the finder well where it is easy to reach. now i need to fine tune the choke. hard starting in the cold found choke was not working i rotated the choke thermostat counter clockwise to close the choke plate. starts great now but lacing the power it had before i rotated thermostate. i think i have to back off by turning clockwise a "index click" at a time any thoughts on the process?? I think the original "mechanic" adjusted it off (clockwise to far) second q the fuel gauge and the temp gage are pegged high. any thoughts? thanks spencer

I would clean out egr valve and check the cat converter, could be stopping up and sending back pressure back to your engine, just a thought.

new cat and egr in the spring (2005) as well as distributor map etc. i think the choke is partially closed need to look again when warmed up also i may have knocked off a vac hose when i reset the choke thermostate awakware to get at thanks s

You had the fuel lines cleaned out, did you also have the tank cleaned?
Have you changed the filter on the bottom of the charcole canister?
Have you changed the timeing chain?
I think you are right about turning the chock back a little bit, you dont want to starve your engine. More air + more fuel = more power. Thats why everyone these days spends $30 on K&N airfilters for cars that really dont need them...