Seeking Advice/Troubleshooting For Starter 'Problem'

Hi and I look forward to your suggestions about this issue :screwy: :

I have a 94 Olds Cutless Supreme with a RS. Several months ago I began having problems starting my car 'on occassion'.

When the car won't start (whether using key or the RS) I will usually here a click and nothing else. Sometimes, if I try again right away, the car will start right up...if it doesn't then I generally have to wait 10-20 minutes, try again and it will turn over.

A couple months ago I had pulled off the road to reset my ABS brakes, ('occaisionally' the anti-lock brake light appears and stays on. According to the owner's manual, the brakes are fine if the light isn't blinking but recommends stopping and restarting the car to reset) and my car wouldn't start.

As usual I let the car sit and kept trying to start it...but this time there was no 'click' even. In the meantime a passerby stopped to lend a hand. He tested the starter for me and said there was no spark.

Had car towed and mechanic replaced the starter. I had left him a note detailing my starter problems and to check the ignition too but he found that the starter wasn't working and replaced it (I did pay for diagnosis).

So now I'm out $260 and am still having the same problem. Everyone I consult with @ electical issues recommends removing the RS but I've always hesitated because even though I don't know much about cars I can figure out when something makes sense or not.

I'm hesitant to go to an electronics garage because last time I went for a different issue, they couldn't find the problem and replaced the battery when it wasn't necessary (2 other garages and $500 later still couldn't find the problem :mad: ). Ended up - after I called for roadside assistance because I wasn't getting any spark at all...b4 the mechanic :smile: even jumped the car...opened the hood and he immediately noticed the loose connection w/ignition wires...just pushed them back together...total cost...$25 :p !

So for the problem at hand...I feel like there isn't enough voltage getting to the starter on a regular basis however, the starter will spark and turn over immediately when I manually spark it.

The only other thing I can think of is that the last person to disconnect the RS...perhaps didn't connect it back properly (I had a window motor replaced...and then had to have the switch replaced because the window still didn't work...total cost with 'diagnosis'...$400+ :mad: ) so I don't want to go back there either!

I'm still considering the ignition switch but am not certain about that either.

So that's where I'm at now and I'd appreciate anything :2cents: you could throw at me here thanks!
Pam

sounds like you are putting way too much money into a car that isn't worth it.

If your remote start is part of (or hooked into) an alarm, that is most likely the culprit. They are some of the cheapest electronics ever created. combine that with the possibility that your car may have the passkey feature, which makes it more complicated.

Check to make sure there isn't a heat shield missing from the starter that was once there originally.

Otherwise, I'd say the next idea is the switch. You can replace it with a phillips screwdriver and a $15 steering wheel puller tool. You just take off the steering wheel, unhook the turn signal switch, then the ignition switch is just a snap in. You just push down on a little clip and pop the old one out, unplug it and put the new one in. If you really want to save money, go to a junkyard and get one from a low-mileage wreck. Any GM car will work. If your car has the passkey feature you'll have to enlist the help of a GM garage (or a specialist in the area) to either bypass that feature or reprogram things to accept the new key. You can also put your tumblers in the new switch to keep the same key. consult a locksmith book for that

If your remote start is part of (or hooked into) an alarm, that is most likely the culprit. They are some of the cheapest electronics ever created. combine that with the possibility that your car may have the passkey feature, which makes it more complicated.

Check to make sure there isn't a heat shield missing from the starter that was once there originally.

Otherwise, I'd say the next idea is the switch. You can replace it with a phillips screwdriver and a $15 steering wheel puller tool. You just take off the steering wheel, unhook the turn signal switch, then the ignition switch is just a snap in. You just push down on a little clip and pop the old one out, unplug it and put the new one in. If you really want to save money, go to a junkyard and get one from a low-mileage wreck. Any GM car will work. If your car has the passkey feature you'll have to enlist the help of a GM garage (or a specialist in the area) to either bypass that feature or reprogram things to accept the new key. You can also put your tumblers in the new switch to keep the same key. consult a locksmith book for that
Dude, settle down. Not all RS units are "the cheapest cheapest electronics ever created". Also, Passkey was never used on ANY Supreme. I do however, 2nd the thought of checking the ignition switch. Personally, I'd go the testing route versus the hillbilly way of replac'n stuff till ya get'r right.

May be your flux capacitor stopped fluxing?

This happened on my Monte Carlo---One thing you may want to check, the battery cable. Sometimes the joint between the cable itself and the connectors themselves can lose good contact. This allows for power to the whole car, but not enough amprage for the starter motor to get going (hence just the click) Also, when traveling the alternator could lose contact with the battery causing a spike or sudden change in voltage. This could cause the ABS systems to reset itself causing that light to come on. Just and idea... Please let us know if you do find the prob... Best of luck!

May be your flux capacitor stopped fluxing?

This happened on my Monte Carlo---One thing you may want to check, the battery cable. Sometimes the joint between the cable itself and the connectors themselves can lose good contact. This allows for power to the whole car, but not enough amprage for the starter motor to get going (hence just the click) Also, when traveling the alternator could lose contact with the battery causing a spike or sudden change in voltage. This could cause the ABS systems to reset itself causing that light to come on. Just and idea... Please let us know if you do find the prob... Best of luck!
Yep, I forgot about that. It's actually a common problem with GM stuff. Also, the battery can break inside where the battery posts are and have simular symptoms.

Sorry I took so long to thank all of you for the very good advice....my PC has been not working and I just got it back up and running....the cheapo black plastic bracket (made in China) that holds the cooling block onto the processor had broken...

Funny though that the last cheapo black plastic made in China part that broke was on my car...on a road trip there was some sudden rattling around and all the gauges went haywire.

When I pulled over...the power steering/serpentine belt was just sitting there after the cheapo black plastic made in China pulley wheel had broken.

But, even at 11pm and I was hoping to make it back home to CT I got luckey and these awesome mechanics (in Virginia) got me on the road in less than an hour!

The belt was ok so it was a matter of getting the right-sized pulley. Now who would have one of those just laying around? Well just by chance this very busy shop with just the owner and one mechanic....hadn't gotten around to cleaning up and found a wheel (metal) that would do.

Though eventually I had to get another pulley because the belt kept sqealing (I think they had cut the belt to fit the width of the pulley) and as much as I wanted to get another metal one...no go and so I had to buy the same cruddy made in China one.

Anyhoo...I'm printing out all this advice to pass along to my mechanic (or whoever may be my mechanic for the day). BTW I don't notice anything near my starter which resembles a heat shield.

And I do have a passkey - in my manual it's referenced as 'Pass-Key II'. So yes, there are Supremes that were made with device.

Definetly I'll be looking at the battery cable and checking the flux capacitator...that sounds like just what it could be! My cars in the shop right now so I'll have the meachanic look into it (oh yeh - something happened to my car when I went for an oil change - I'm posting new on that so would welcome opinions on this new issue!).

But thanks again and I will post back when I find out for sure about the issue.And yes I have put too much money into this car. Bought from a dealer -1st time I ever had and they steered me to this lemon (told me it was the only car on their lot that I could qualify for credit on). So I paid too much for it right then and there.

That was 3 1/2 years ago and I've put more than $7000 into this lovely car (I have to be nice to it - you know how that goes) but that includes the rebuilt tranny.

So thanks again and Happy Hoiliday! Pam

If this starting problem I've had (the click and not enough voltage getting to the starter) is the same as my most recent starting problem (engine not turning over completly) the porblem was diagnosed as being the crank sensor.

I had asked the mechanic to check to see is the 2 starting problems are related...and they couldn't get the car to do the 'clicking' thing so they're assuming that might have been the issue all along.

All I can do is wait and see if the starting issue arises again and then deal with it then. But I have all the comments to go on so that's where I'll be starting on if that be the case.

Thanks for your help and HAPPY HOLIDAYS :biggrin:

Car is back in the shop today. Had just picked it up yesterday...but it took a couple of hours until I could get it started this morning.

When I had tried to start it...it chugged a couple of times and then shutdown. When I tried again...was just getting the same click from the relay. Eventually I got it to turn over.

It was hoped that perhaps the replacement of the crank sensor and wiring (wiring was all burned up from the exhaust - this mechanic thought it was obviously from the wiring not properly being placed back from when I had the tranny rebuilt) would have taken care of the existing starting problem, but...the first time I tried to start my car after I got it back home.

Waiting to find out more info....

Well...yesterday I was told the starter that I had replaced in September was bad and I agreed to have it replaced, but...

I didn't even call back to check on the car because I knew there was a chance that this wasn't going to solve the existing issue.

This morning I called, and sure enough the car was doing the same thing. This time I'm told that I need a neutral safety switch...now I'm miffed!!!!

Years ago I had a car with a bad neutral safety switch and even so I could start my car when it was in neutral. I tried starting this car in neutral a few times and it didn't start.

This morning I asked if the car only starts when it's in neutral and was told that - with a properly working starter it only starts in neutral.

The problem with this though is that I was told that my car was doing the same thing after the starter was replaced. If it's doing the same thing, then when it's not starting (when I get the click) then it's not starting when it's in park nor when it's in neutral! But I was told that it is starting in neutral since there's a working starter in it now :screwy:

Ok that's all I can write because obviously I'm miffed and would like to hear of any comments about this issue...thanks.

Just got word back that it's not the neutral safety switch either (I was sceptical) but that the problem is somewhere between where the switch is, and the starter.

No one will be working on the car again until Monday but this place has been really great - willing to try to find the problem and I have a loaner car which is a real big help.

Happy New Year everyone and cya next year! Pam