Transmission Problems

I need some help

I had to change my engine due to a spun rear main. Since them I have changed my wiring harness and computer. Still not fixed. My transmission is still jerking from first to second on the up shift and down shift. I notice it when the selector light is not in "D" (they have yet to fix that problem). I have read the forum and it seems to go back to the transmission sensor. Could this be the problem. Sometimes the indicator works in "N" and "D" but no where else(Shifts fine then). Sometimes it stays in "N" and jerks and someties no light at all and it jerks.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jimmy in Texas
2000 Rodeo with new engine. witring harness and computer
$4,000.00 poorer

Jimmy that is most definately a range/mode sensor problem. Real easy to fix yourself. Locate the range sensor mounted to the shift arm on the driver's side of the transmission. Remove it, take it apart, clean it with electrical parts cleaner, re-lube it with dielectric (silicone) grease & you almost always are good to go. One that's really corroded on the inside will need to be replaced.
G/luck
Joel

I need some help

I had to change my engine due to a spun rear main.


mind if we asked what caused your engine failure, perhaps it could save one of us from the same nightmare.

thanks!

mind if we asked what caused your engine failure, perhaps it could save one of us from the same nightmare.

thanks!

It got low on oil. I had just had it changed 1000 miles before the rear main thing. I read here on the forum that it is not unusal to burn a quart or so every tankful of gas. I never had that problem before. I had to add a quart at about 3000 miles or so. The funny thing is that my "Oil Light" never came on.
I am still having trouble with the transmission shifting, I need to get back to the shop and let them fix it. Also my "Check Transmission" light started falshing on me yestersday on my way to Houston. I have to check into that.
I am also getting bad codes on my O2 sensor. This is getting to be a big ole hassel. By BMW motorcycle did not give me this much trouble after I hit a truck with it and had to completly rebuild it.

Jimmy in Texas
2000 Rodeo
91 BMW K75
$4000.00 poorer

It got low on oil. I had just had it changed 1000 miles before the rear main thing. I read here on the forum that it is not unusal to burn a quart or so every tankful of gas. I never had that problem before. I had to add a quart at about 3000 miles or so. The funny thing is that my "Oil Light" never came on.


sorry to hear that, that problem has me worried, I now watch oil vigilantly, but wonder how this problem can happen apparently overnight.

How many miles on the 2000 rodeo when it happened?

Does anyone know why the "check oil light won't come on in this situation??? I've seen that comment before.

sorry to hear that, that problem has me worried, I now watch oil vigilantly, but wonder how this problem can happen apparently overnight.

How many miles on the 2000 rodeo when it happened?

Does anyone know why the "check oil light won't come on in this situation??? I've seen that comment before.


It had 96,000 miles on it when it broke. I got a used engine from the salvage yard with 20,000 miles on it. Everything worked fine till the engine swap. Now the transmission will not shift and the check transmission light is blinking . Also foault codes about the O2 sensor. That is my next problemto check into. I am going back to the mechanic tonight and have him fix the sensor swithch. It is pretty bad when I have to trouble shoot the problem for them. They are ussually pretty goood at thngs.

Thanks for asking

Jimmy, try to get the codes read (autozone) and post back. They could have inadvertantly switched the O2 sensor wiring around on the engine swap (4 O2 sensors on your truck), plus they probably had to unplug the tranny range sensor for the swap which could have caused the range sensor to mess up. You could also be low on ATF, again from the swap. The 4L30E does not handle low ATF well & will burn up. Your shop is probably not familiar with checking/adding ATF to this tranny.
G/luck
Joel

Joel
I am going by there tonight after work and have them clear the codes AGAIN. If I remember right, one was P401. Any way I will post them tonight. Thanks a bunch for your help and input.
J

Joel
I am going by there tonight after work and have them clear the codes AGAIN. If I remember right, one was P401. Any way I will post them tonight. Thanks a bunch for your help and input.
J


Joel

Here are the codes that we cleard the last time. They came right back in less than a mile. They said they cleaned the transmission sensor and still is not working. I am going by there tonight and find the 12volt signal and jumper all the pins back to the computer to verify the wiring harnness is good. It is getting redicilous that I have to do their trouble shoting. I am going to tell the owner that if it is not right by this weekend that I want it sent to the local Honda dealer and have them fix it right, and they have to eat the cost. The closest Isuzu dealer is in Houston 50 miles away. Anyway sorry for the ranting, I am just fed up with them


Here are the codes, Also thanks for all your help.
P0113 IAT Circuit Input High
P0141 HO2S Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0160 HO2S Heater Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0161 HO2S Heater Circuit BAnk2 Sensor 2

Thanks Again and if anybody else has any suggestions please feel free to let me know.
J

Jimmi, for the PO113 code - "intake air temp" circuit, check the connections at your plastic/rubber air intake tube between the airfilter box and the intake, your MAF is in there as well as (I believe) an air temp sensor. Make sure the connections are good, no broken wires, etc. For the O2 sensor codes, make sure the sensor connections are good. It's possible your bank 2 sensor 2 is totally dead or just unplugged since it's heater is not working + no activity from it. All these sensors had to be unplugged for the engine/tranny work, so it's possible they are just bad connections. For the O2 sensors, bank 2 is the drivers side, bank 1 is passenger. Sensor 1 is before the catalytic converter, sensor 2 is downstream. No doubt your tranny is shifting harshly due to all of this, as the PCM cant figure out what's going on. Worst case, those two O2 sensors are about $45/ea, plus an air temp sensor, which just snaps into the air intake tube, cant amagine that would be too costly. Hopefully not!!
G/luck
Joel

I have a 2000 Rodeo Isuzu 4wd. It has less than 50,000 on it. I had a lot of front end shaking that the dealer tried unsuccessfully to figure out. In the process of figuring it out they pulled the rear end thinking it was coming from there. Later it was my son who discovered the shimming and shaking was coming from bent rims. I bought the vehicle used with less than 20,000 mi. on it. Anyway, since the dealer put a new rear axle on the vehicle I have had a clunk in the back when I take off. It seems to be occurring when the trans is shifting up from first to second. The dealer acted like they didn't know what it was. The vehicle was in the dealer shop more often than it was out while under warranty the first yr. Still it was never fixed. Does ANYONE know what could be causing this? I am thinking it is either the transmission or the rear end...but I don't know and I don't want to be ripped off. The other thing that happens every now and then is that I can't get the gear shifter to go into reverse from park. The dealer told me that is was some type of sensor that is not functioning. He said all I have to do when it happens is keep my foot off the brake while moving the shifter from park to reverse and it wouldn't get stuck. He was right about that part. I don't know if these two issues would be interconnected or not. Thanks for any information you might be able to share with me. Also, reading above I noticed that one individual had problems with the oil getting low. I drove my vehicle from Colorado to Calif. and it used a quart of oil getting there. I never saw anything that told me it was burning oil or leaking. I asked the dealer about it and they said it was normal with these engines. It has never done that since that time however. It doesn't leak or smoke either. I was really shocked that it had used a whole quart though. Thanks again for any input about the clunking. VJW

http://www.geocities.com/endre_rl/isuzufaq.htm#faq9

clunk fix.

Shaking. The best thing to do is take your truck to a place the balance drive shafts. They will pull it, and spin it and see if it needs to be balanced. This is the common cause of the shaking.

Oil useage. Yep they burn some. So check your oil often.

http://www.geocities.com/endre_rl/isuzufaq.htm#faq4

Your shifter problem is most likely this:
http://www.geocities.com/endre_rl/isuzufaq.htm#faq59

Easy fix, that is free.

Joel

I wanted to thank you for helping me with me Rodeo. The problem turned out after I sent my Rodeo to the Honda shop and they wanted $1000.00 to fix it, was a rat had gotten in to the engine while sitting in the junk yard and chewed 6 of the wires in to. (Hmmmm wonder if a shorted wire will affect the computer I replaced.) Any way the shop that was working on it came and picked it up from the Honda dealership and fixed it. I kept asking if gthey had checked the continuity of the wires. They said yes. I am wonering if they know what I was talking about. All I know is thagt thye will not even be changing the oil for me any more.
Again thanks for your help

Jimmy

I own a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo. I am being told that I need a new transmission. This past June, at just over 60,000 miles, I began to hear clunking noises and experience a violent jerk on cold starts. I immediately took the vehicle in for service and followed through with a recommended transmission flush. 1 month later, the clunking and jerking started up again. This time, after exhaustive diagnostic testing with a transmission specialist, it was discovered that the transmission is failing. Metal shavings and clutch material were found in the tranny pan - even though the car is an automatic. At barely over 60,000 miles I cannot believe that a new transmission is needed. What further bothers me is that as I investigate this issue online, I am not the only one with tranny problems. It seems that this is a common, well documented issue of Isuzu’s with the model year being of little consequence. Has there been any movement to demand that General Motors, who now owns Isuzu, stand up and fix the transmission? Or is a new transmission at 60,000 miles considered normal?

No, tranny replacement at 60K is not normal.

I've had 2 of these Rodeo's, both with the same auto you have, and have gotten over 140K easily with both.

Can I ask if you know how frequent the tranny's been serviced? High recommendation is every 25-30K miles, and very risky going over 35K without a flush.

Which transmission specialist did you go to?

Reason I ask, is I went to an AAMCO some 70K miles back now to have them do a tranny flush/fill and also change out the filter. They came back in and said my transmission pan was full of metal shavings and that a rebuilt was in order.

I told them to put it back together and I took it to the dealership - out of warranty, by the way, in which case they very well COULD have said something was wrong - if, in fact anything was wrong. They never mentioned an issue with metal shavings.

They dropped the pan, cleaned the screen, changed filter and did a full flush. I've had 2 flushes since then and not a single issue - not that I had an issue to begin with.

Truck's pullin along just fine - with a supposed bad tranny.

Good luck

..... Metal shavings and clutch material were found in the tranny pan - even though the car is an automatic. At barely over 60,000 miles I cannot believe that a new transmission is needed....

Clutch material and fine metallic shavings will be found in any automatic trans pan @ 60K miles! This is perfectly normal. 60K miles is too long to go between ATF changes on the 4L30E, but you might be ok. For erratic and/or hard shifting I would suspect a bad range/mode sensor, low ATF level, low system voltage (bad battery or alternator), or a bad intake manifold gasket. Look at Amigo-2K's FAQ's and try a search for 'range' or 'mode' sensor.
G/luck
Joel

Jimmy that is most definately a range/mode sensor problem. Real easy to fix yourself. Locate the range sensor mounted to the shift arm on the driver's side of the transmission. Remove it, take it apart, clean it with electrical parts cleaner, re-lube it with dielectric (silicone) grease & you almost always are good to go. One that's really corroded on the inside will need to be replaced.
G/luck
Joel
Hello Joe - a 91 Rodeo Isuzu transmission problem is also what I am experiencing. Could this also be what the problem is with mine? It is a 2.6 engine and a 2 wheel drive. Love the vehicle and the engine is great. Can you help?

Am new at this online stuff but anxious to find knowledge about a 91 Rodeo transmission 2.6 engine 2 WD. Love the vehicle and ready to get it going again. It is still operable, but shifting is not properly engaging.

Marla, your 1991 does not have the 4L30E auto trans. I'm not really sure what the pre 1993 automatics were. Hopefull someone else will chime in.
G/luck
Joel

I have a 1999 isuzu rodeo -trans only moves in drive when I press the winter button-and trans also works in reverse. Do I need a new trans