Oil leaks--where to start?

1992 Cherokee, 158,500 miles, 4WD.

New to the program here, and have read many of the postings...all much appreciated. Bought this vehicle a couple years ago. Like it a lot, but my driveway is becoming a second oil pan...and the leaks are getting worse. Good thing it's getting cold...the oil gets thicker and isn't leaking as much, I hope.

As near as I can tell, I need to replace the real main seal, oil pan gasket, head gasket and the valve cover gasket. Are there any left? sheesh! Gotta staunch the bleeding here. I saw the previous posting on changing the real main seal, and I'm tempted to take a crack at it. Has anyone had difficulty getting the oil pan off and by a couple hard lines going to the transmission? I believe these are coolant lines? If so, how to deal with them? Drain the coolant first? Once I disconnect them from the tranny, am I going to regret it, or can they be reattached without a gasket or seal or something?

Once I get these dealt with, I can move on to the rear wiper that just went toes up. Like many who have posted...it's a good vehicle, but the electrical system is limping along...cruise control stopped, front wipers don't work intermitently, gas gauge is a mystery, heater fan only works on high. Kind of like the ol' Johnny Cash song, "One Piece at a Time" except I'm just fixing the thing!

Carlson

Replace the Valve cover gasket first. it leaks down the engine and will make it look like the rest of these things are leaking when in fact they are not. Change it first and clean the engine off or just wait a week or so and see if the leaking stops. Same thing was happening to my 94. Replaced the valve cover gasket and it does not leak oil anymore...

if you plan on doing any of the other gaskets, get a jeep shop manual first (not a chiltons type manual). it will have all the procedures and torque specs. hands down well worth the 50 bucks for one. it even has alot of the dissassembly schematics and all the electrical troubleshooting guides (which it sounds like you need!).

Or the valve cover is just loose? Check on those bolts and make sur they are tight. Also don't forget the one in the back and difficult to get to......

I whould clean the motor first, than Start with the valve cover gasket, check over time see if it stops than keep working from top to bottom. Good idea to see if bolts are loose first thing. Those two hoses bring tranny fluid to color and back, nothing to worry about just watch for falling fluid!!

Yes, start with the valve cover first. Also a very important thing to remember when tightening the bolts make sure you don't over tighten them to the point that you split the gasket,this will only cause more of an oil leak. I would invest in a good inch/pound and ft pound torque wrench set. that way you know everything is done right. If you are going to get as deep as changing the head gasket, your torque wrench should at least go to 200 ft/lbs.

Thanks for the tips. I've been using the Haynes manual, and have been seriously thinking of getting the official one from the manufacturer.

Good point about the ft/lbs limit on the torque wrench. Since I haven't bought a torque wrench yet, I would have missed that point.

I'll check the valve cover bolts this weekend, and we'll see what becomes.

Thanks again.

Carlson

Keep in mind that if the gasket under the valve cover has never been replced it is the factory gasket which will "blow-out" from under the cover after a while so re-tightening the bolts will not stop it unless you have already put in the new gasket. Also pay attention to the order in which you have to tighten the bolts, it also makes a big difference as does the proper torque spec. To tight causes the gasket to lose it's shape and gap somewhere else which just means more leakage! :-)