10 dollar *clicking* starter cure
forest_grump
11-30-2004, 12:00 PM
This is a problem common with Nippondenso starters which are easy to spot as it is a starter built around a solinoid body rather than having a conventional solinoid that bolts onto to starter case...
Anyways it starts when engine has ran awhile and you go to start it up and all you hear is a loud click each time you try and start it or maybe cold an out of the blue....remove starter...on back of starter there is a semi-triangular plate that is held on with 3 phillips or 5/16 screws..remove plate...look inside after removing plate and remove the plunger with spring from the middle..set aside...next you will see two copper contact points with an exit post leading to outside of case where you would attach main positive cable from battery and starter case lead on other...these are always worn down more on one more than the other and should be replaced as a set...you may purchase these thru a starter rebuild shop for 10 dollars or less.
Once you have the new points(take old ones with you after marking them to where they go to match up)install them making sure they set down flat and are tight....take plunger over to wirewheel brush on bench grinder and buff to shine or hand sand to shine the bottom of the round copper disk and wipe off debries when done......install plunger with spring(did you lose the spring?hope not)install plate and test by attaching negitive jumper cable to case and attaching positive lead to post where you had main power wire bolted when installed(be careful and do not short it out and have other end of leads connected to a battery not hooked up to engine in vehichle just in case)next you will need to touch a *hot*(12 volt positive)wire to where that small wire connects when installed(this is your ignition wire that gets power only when you hold key over when installed)if it sucks plunger down and completes the connection inside and spins starter over you are done...if not retrace steps as you have either done something wrong as the brushes can take 3-4 of these rebuilds or it is just a rare case where it is more serious(used to rebuild starters and alternators professional)....if bench test is good then re-install being careful not to overtighten main power wire from battery to starter which will twist post and contact inside starter ( I warned ya earlier to make sure this post was tight before you put it in lol )
Hope this will some out there money and will post one on Nippondenso and related alternators and their common brake and charging light on dash problem..for those more experienced it is most common if caught soon enough to just replace the brush assem.(after it ruins awhile like this you (oops ment runs lol) will burn out diodes as well) or if you know how to,just solder new brushes in..... replace or if you know how..repack *smooth turning* bearings with fresh grease ....cheers
Anyways it starts when engine has ran awhile and you go to start it up and all you hear is a loud click each time you try and start it or maybe cold an out of the blue....remove starter...on back of starter there is a semi-triangular plate that is held on with 3 phillips or 5/16 screws..remove plate...look inside after removing plate and remove the plunger with spring from the middle..set aside...next you will see two copper contact points with an exit post leading to outside of case where you would attach main positive cable from battery and starter case lead on other...these are always worn down more on one more than the other and should be replaced as a set...you may purchase these thru a starter rebuild shop for 10 dollars or less.
Once you have the new points(take old ones with you after marking them to where they go to match up)install them making sure they set down flat and are tight....take plunger over to wirewheel brush on bench grinder and buff to shine or hand sand to shine the bottom of the round copper disk and wipe off debries when done......install plunger with spring(did you lose the spring?hope not)install plate and test by attaching negitive jumper cable to case and attaching positive lead to post where you had main power wire bolted when installed(be careful and do not short it out and have other end of leads connected to a battery not hooked up to engine in vehichle just in case)next you will need to touch a *hot*(12 volt positive)wire to where that small wire connects when installed(this is your ignition wire that gets power only when you hold key over when installed)if it sucks plunger down and completes the connection inside and spins starter over you are done...if not retrace steps as you have either done something wrong as the brushes can take 3-4 of these rebuilds or it is just a rare case where it is more serious(used to rebuild starters and alternators professional)....if bench test is good then re-install being careful not to overtighten main power wire from battery to starter which will twist post and contact inside starter ( I warned ya earlier to make sure this post was tight before you put it in lol )
Hope this will some out there money and will post one on Nippondenso and related alternators and their common brake and charging light on dash problem..for those more experienced it is most common if caught soon enough to just replace the brush assem.(after it ruins awhile like this you (oops ment runs lol) will burn out diodes as well) or if you know how to,just solder new brushes in..... replace or if you know how..repack *smooth turning* bearings with fresh grease ....cheers
Brian R.
11-30-2004, 06:40 PM
forest_grump
12-01-2004, 01:10 AM
For some very detailed good pics of the job described earlier please check out web addies brian was kind enough to post from an earlier post....thanks man
Brian R.
12-01-2004, 08:15 AM
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