1990 Galant problems...again

I will try to explain this so that it can be understood, but I can't promise anything. :lol2: The last problem that I had involved my alternator, and after that was replaced, everything seemed fine.

Since then, I sometimes get surges in the idle when the car is still, and it will either stall or keep running. I have a feeling that I need to adjust tension on the drive belt to correct this problem.

As of a few days ago, my check engine light has come on, and it has stayed on (5 days now). When I attempt to start the car first thing in the morning, it acts normal, until I let go of the key (fuel injected). It will then act as if I had shut it off. This goes on for quite a few tries before it lets me keep it going by pressing the gas pedal. Then once the engine is revving, it sputters if it gets below 1000 rpms, and unless it is warmed up, it will die. (but I can usually get it going right away after that). Once I am driving, it handles normally, until I need to come to a stop. Then, once again, when the idle speed gets below 1000 rpms, it will sputter, and die if it isn't completely warmed up. Once it is warmed up, it runs with no problems, but still sputters a little when idling. I should also mention that the past couple of times I've cold-started it, it has backfired, but I can't tell whether it's coming from the exhaust or the engine compartment. Also, upon start-up, I get bluish white exhaust - also a brand new thing. I assume that it is burning oil.

Autozone can't do diagnosics on foreign cars older than 1995, and I can't afford to have it hooked up anywhere within the next 2 weeks. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated. :uhoh:

has your car got a 4g motor? if so you can read the codes with a volt meter

Sounds like you need a tune up real bad. Replace distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs. Bluish white smoke is gas, a symptom of poor burning. Also backfiring.

I have a similar problem to your have you sorted it out?
I so what was the problem??


I will try to explain this so that it can be understood, but I can't promise anything. :lol2: The last problem that I had involved my alternator, and after that was replaced, everything seemed fine.

Since then, I sometimes get surges in the idle when the car is still, and it will either stall or keep running. I have a feeling that I need to adjust tension on the drive belt to correct this problem.

As of a few days ago, my check engine light has come on, and it has stayed on (5 days now). When I attempt to start the car first thing in the morning, it acts normal, until I let go of the key (fuel injected). It will then act as if I had shut it off. This goes on for quite a few tries before it lets me keep it going by pressing the gas pedal. Then once the engine is revving, it sputters if it gets below 1000 rpms, and unless it is warmed up, it will die. (but I can usually get it going right away after that). Once I am driving, it handles normally, until I need to come to a stop. Then, once again, when the idle speed gets below 1000 rpms, it will sputter, and die if it isn't completely warmed up. Once it is warmed up, it runs with no problems, but still sputters a little when idling. I should also mention that the past couple of times I've cold-started it, it has backfired, but I can't tell whether it's coming from the exhaust or the engine compartment. Also, upon start-up, I get bluish white exhaust - also a brand new thing. I assume that it is burning oil.

Autozone can't do diagnosics on foreign cars older than 1995, and I can't afford to have it hooked up anywhere within the next 2 weeks. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated. :uhoh:

it may be an ECU or idle speed motor