(k)no(w) when to say when ?

I've got a 95 Aurora with 130k miles, and it seems to be reaching the final stages of composting. I'm trying to decide if its time to punt it, try to fix it or pay to have it fixed. I've got a laundry list of items wrong with it. Some more heavily probed than others. I used to work on cars some, but usually with more expert supervision. Any advice on any of the following items would be greatly appreciated.

Radiator -
Leak in the plastic (1 inch) crack near the bracket for the AC coils. I've tried epoxy and JBWeld to seal. The second time I tried very very hard to get the site clean and roughed up and it still hasn't held. I say one guy say that a crack in the plastic means get a new radiator, but I'm not sure why it can't be sealed. It seems like they must crack there alot. Is something torqueing that bracket or jarring it? My AC got replaced about a year ago and hasn't sounded quite right since, although it still works. I did notice that the rubber slot the top of the radiator should be craddled in was kind of mangled like at some point someone had not taken proper car when re-assembling it. (sigh) Anyway, are there some tips on patching the radiator? Is patching this spot unrealistic? I put the seal tablets in, any chance they could fix a leak this size in this place? How cheaply should I be able to find a radiator? Is it hard to replace? Does anyone have a simple step by step on how to do that?

Brakes -
Needs pads - Rotors to thin to turn, but not below min. The rotors aren't badly grooved. I'd like to just put new pads on. Does anyone think that would be a huge mistake? Are pads hard to replace? Does anyone have a simple step by step on how to do that?

Suspension -
Makes a loud creaky noise on bumps or for that matter even decelerating. Mecanic says it needs new struts. Are these hard to replace? Does anyone have a simple step by step on how to do that? Could this be related to an impact jarring enough to crack the radiator.

Service Engine -
Kind of hesitating when moving at idle. Light pretty predictable pops on at the same time I used to have awful jerky shift problems (around 40-45mph : around 1500 rpm). One dealer said $2k shift solenoid on the jerky shift another said $200 pcm card. I went with the card and it worked. That was around 30k miles ago, I wonder if the same problem is back? Going to get code from Autozone, but I'm not sure what that will tell me.

Leaks -
Everything is leaking but I've decided to kind of ignore these. Oil - just a few drops not a big deal. Trans Fluid - doesn't smell but I seems to have to put more in now and then, had the gasket replaced last year. Brake Fluid - OK this one I'm a little worried about, but my mechanic tells me that the drips I see around the master cylinder are just from my sloppy pouring when I re-filled. I'll keep an eye on it.

All are fairly easy and cheap to fix problems mostly from a lack maintenance or in the case of American engineered cars, a lack of nursing it along. Procedures for all are buried in previous threads. I know going back through the pages is time consuming but so is re-typing them for each question. Try AC Delco Professional Platinum spark plugs and wires for the hesitation problem and go from there if it does not cure the problem. Good luck!

I'm afraid my post got screened because it was too long and not focused enough. So let me try again.

I spent many hours going over the forum last weekend and didn't really come across a wealth of information on people trying to patch the plastic area. I did see some references that made me think that this is a common area for cracking. My concern is that if I don't understand what is causing the area to crack, I may put it a brand new radiator and proceed to crack it in the same place (just like I cracked this "special unpenetrable" epoxy.

Make sense?

Could it be suspension related? AC system related? Bad fit for the rubber support on the plate over the radiator?

I trimmed part of my mangled rubber support so it fits but is not as snug as it probably was originally. Is that a problem?

Okay,.....the lines threaded into the radiator on the passenger side are for the engine oil cooler. The ones on the drivers side are for the trans fluid cooler. Mine cracked near the top oil line fitting, which I believe is very common. The entire radiator was designed to be disposeable. Brand new ones are only a little over $200 and my replacement AC Delco unit was reinforced in these areas with more ABS material as well as a metal backer on the fitting itself. It is just a weak spot so don't stress over finding a cause, just get a new one. The A/C lines should go up and over the end tank and should not interfere with the radiator at all.

**BIG TIME MONEY SAVER & FIXED RIGHT!!***
I just couldnt justify spending that much on a radiator, so i went to the local reputable radiator shop & he said he would rod out the radiator , boil it out , put a new tank on it, & pressure test it for $90, and it would be as good as new.
So i took it out & a few hours & $90 later i had a "NEW" radiator.
This was over a year ago & ofcourse, its still going strong.
You WILL also want to change your radiator hoses while you`re in there, as theyre a BIT$H to get to otherwise!!

You WILL NOT be able to "patch" a bad plastic radiator tank, it never has worked & never will, & it`s DEFINATELY not worth the risk of having heads/headgaskets go out again on you.
:) Good luck!