Rear Defroster

The Heat element tab fell off of the grid on the rear window of my spyder. I've tried the Defroster repair kit twice, and both times, it instantly falls back off, even after holding it in place, not moving at all for 10 minutes. I plan on buying one more just for the activator for the tab and the grid. My question is, is there any glue element i can use to ensure that the tab will stick to the grid? If so, let me know please.

i dunno about the glue but maybe you can solder the tab on?

I had the same problem about a year ago. If I understand you correctly the tab to the side of the "riser" broke off with the wire still attached to the tab. That would leave the "riser" still attached to the window with nowhere to attach the wire, correct? If so I didn't try to solder it because it is so close to the window, I was afraid that it would shatter the window (I don't know if it is possible but I didn't want to take a chance). According to the old guy down at the hardware store, JB weld will not conduct electricity, so that is out of the question.

Before you bust my balls for the way I fixed it.....It has worked perfectly for the last year. So here it is: First you will need a dremel (sp?) tool, phillips screwdriver and an old computer board (modem, NIC, video card, etc.). If you don't have any lying around you should be able to get a non-functional one from a local computer store for free. Remove the screws holding the circuit board to the metal bracket. On the other side of the red circle shown in the picture below is a threaded metal tab...

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/155962modem3.jpg

You will need to cut that off of the bracket and grind it down so it fits in the end of the electrical connector. Next you need to drill a hole in the "riser" attached to the back window big enough for the screw to fit through. I put a piece of metal between the riser and the window so I didn't hit it with the drill bit when I got through the riser. Be careful and take your time with this step. Finally place the threaded tab, connected to the wire on the back side of the riser and thread your screw through the hole. Bingo!!! Good as new. I have had my top up and down hundreds of times since I did this and have had no problems at all. Good Luck and let me know if you decide to do it this way.

hey magiver, how'd you think that up!! nice

hey magiver, how'd you think that up!! nice

Thanks! :smile:

I was just sitting there in the garage trying to figure out how I was going to fix the damn thing without buying a new window, and suddenly this light bulb appeared over my head :biggrin:

lol ill stick with soldering it that seems more likely to break the window then a quick shot with the soldering iron. just use a low wattage(15w) one like you would use for computer circuits

i believe my problem is much simpler than that. The grid i'm talking about is the brown patch on both sides of the rear window, with lines running horizontally across the rear window to heat the window. Each side of the window has a metal tab connected to it, which goes into a connector and a wire. the entire tab, connector, and wire(all of which are intact, simply fell off of the widow, and is now hanging next to my window. The kits i used have a special glue element that conducts electricity. But for some reason won't harden.

The only thing that puzzles me about your fix is you talk about the riser as if it's not part of the window(specifically when you said you put a piece of metal between that and the window. Maybe i'm just not understanding what you are calling the riser. Currently, my impression is that the riser you speak of is the same thing as the grid i'm talking about.

i think his tab broke off and left part of it on the window and it just was too short to hook the connctor on. if you are following the directions the glue things should work. try getting a small wire brash and lightly scrubing the contact point where youre trying to glue it on. after you scrub it wipe it off with alchohol and then try the glue

Sorry, I'm not sure what the actual name of the piece is. My spyder has a metal tab/bracket that sits on the brown patch of defroster wire (attached to the window). It has a male spade connector that points away from the window attached to the tab/bracket. On mine the spade connector broke but the tab/bracket was still firmly attached to the window.

It seems like your entire tab/bracket fell off the window.

Sorry if my description isn't too clear, I would take a picture for you, but the car is in storage.

It seems like your entire tab/bracket fell off the window.

Sorry if my description isn't too clear, I would take a picture for you, but the car is in storage.

That's exactly it. The entire assembly merely fell off of the brown patch of defroster wire, and i can't get it back on for some wierd reason. The glue in this package just won't stick. It won't even harden. It's suppose to harden after a minute or a few, but it stays very liquidy, even drips off of the tab. Is there any other glue that will conduct electricity?

BTW, ya don't have to apologize, it's Mitsubishi's fault for not labelling everything. :D

Is there any other glue that will conduct electricity?




http://www.theverylastpageoftheinternet.com/forsale/store/conductive_glue.htm

It seems a little pricey, but it has to be cheaper than a new window. It says it is conductive and works with metal and glass...

Actually, this site seems a little more "respectable" :biggrin:

http://www.resintechgroup.com/conductive.html

Awesome, thanks for the links! :)

i think radioshack has a conductive adheasive too. my dad is big into old ham radios and what not i remember him usuing it on one. stuff stuck lik superglue if i remember right. was clear as well

i'll definitely head out to radioshack tomorrow and look for it. Thanks.