Please everyone help esp jeckyl.

HI i have a 93 mr-2 turbo i have been tring to tune for quite some time. It had a stock 3s-gte with a greddy bov and a greddy intake filter when i bought it it was quick i had it running 14.3's with just a boost controller. After a while of running boost to high i locked up the turbo and spun a rod beiring.I now have a 3rd gen jdm motor with a hks tubular manifold ct20b turbo hks 3 inch down pipe, hks intake,blitz bov custom intercoller piping gutted exhaust greddy fcd. manual boost controller. and i blew an oil line on my way to work. and now i guess i spun another bearing and pretty sure i burnt up the rings. I think it has hks internals but im not sure i bought the motor at a show and couldnt run it withe the j spec ecu because the engine harness was cut and i had to use the american spec ecu i have a stock fuel pump greddy iridium plugs was running 19-22 pounds of boost but could not get lower than a 14.0 flat doesnt make sense. !n tell me what you think and two why with all the motor upgrades this one has is it only running 14.0. also do you think that all it is a bearing and rings it smokes alot and it has a very slight nock. but still spools but it is shooting oil over my engine bay from the bov.

Things I noted:
1. BOVs (greddy or Blitz) suck. The OEM valve is the best performer you are going to get.

2. The HKS intake is worst one the big names. That foam filter does very little to protect your engine from debris. I would only use a K&N or an Apexi. I use K&N myself.

3. Why is there "custom IC piping"? ... do you have a different IC?

4. You said "gutted" exhaust ... I am assuming it is the OEM exhaust with gutted cats? ... if so, that is a HUGE bottleneck in your system. The OEM pipe stinks and the bends are not mandrel. All of that other stuff you did to get more flow is just getting clogged up in your exhaust. You would probably pick u pa lot of HP just by getting a freer flowing exhaust.

5. The jspec ECU is more agressive than ours and, from what I understand, you will never see the full benefits of the Gen III without it.

6. Are you sure it is a GenIII? How do you know about the "HKS Internals" ... I would kinda be surprised by that.

7. Iridium plugs are a no no. I would only use the NGK Coppers (6097 or 5030). Gap them to .027" ~ .028" if you are running 20 psi of boost.

8. For 20 psi of boost of safely you are going to need more fuel ... at the very least I would get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator so you can increase your fuel pressure. www.trueleo.com/fpr.htm

tell me what you think and two why with all the motor upgrades this one has is it only running 14.0.
I need more information. What was your MPH? What was your 60' time?
It could be the driving, it could be the car ... I need more info.
What was your mph at 14.3?

How old is the ignition pieces? (cap/rotor/wires/plugs) ... anyone of those in poor condition could rob as much as 30 rwhp.
Is your BOV opening up under boost? ... sounds like it might not be holding if it is blowing out oil while boosting.

also do you think that all it is a bearing and rings it smokes alot and it has a very slight nock. but still spools but it is shooting oil over my engine bay from the bov.
Could be the turbo ... could be the engine.
I would do a compression check first.

The car could never get over 99 mph in the quater usually ran about 97 mph. The ignition i guess is as old as the motor. I ran the numbers on the engine they came back as a 98 mr-2 turbo but thats all i got back. the motor supposedly had 22,000 on it it came from japan supposedly and i think they drag raced it because it came with a trans with the diff. welded together.

also the guys i bought it from said it was running with a map and not a maf,i had to hook it to my maf since the jdm harness was cut in half and the maf was all i had to run it. It came with the jdm ecu but it would not run. It would start and it would severly bog at idle and would not rev. I did have a fuel pressure reg on it at one point but i had to lean out the fuel to get it not to bog under boost. I put it on the return line and was told that what it was doing is keeping fuel in the rail longer due to slowing the fuel flow back to the tank,due to not having a large enough fuel pump. I do not know about the internals i havent cracked it open yet but i will soon know. Thanks for the help.

You just answered your question ... you took an advanced engine designed to run on an advanced ECU set up and you "got it to run" with the old AFM set up. I am sure that has cost you greatly in performance.

As for the ignition ... I would get on that. Cap, rotor, wires and some new NGK copper plugs.

Thanks jeckyl ill keep you updated. I have a little extra money coming my way and plan to hook it up to a 3 bar map sensor and run a 255 walbro with a rising rate fpr. Also im gonna have a custom 3 inch exhaust built by a local shop, and one more thing.The custom intercooler pipes r due to the tubular manifold they had to make them to go up and over the manifold so high that the hit the engine lid when you close it.

Make sure the FPR you get is 1:1 (boost to fuel).

I would highly recommend you get an intercooler upgrade and a new exhaust if you are running 20 psi.