Shorting out when starting?!

Having a small problem and before I go through the whole wiring system I thought i'd get some input. I have a push button start installed, one wire goes to the starter, and another goes to the battery and the button connects the two. Just recently when I push the button, the starter clicks once and then all power to the car shuts off. The power comes back when I unhook the battery and hook it back up. Now it used to do this because of a short from the negative battery terminal to a hose clamp on the radiator, but that's not the case anymore. So i'm thinking that pretty much narrows it down to either one of the wires from the button causing a short, or something at the starter. But then I don't get why the power to everything is cut off. Could it be a short somewhere in the battery cables? Any input is appreciated!

what year is it again?

It's a 1988 Formula 350

i think its in the starter

Well the starter and solenoid itself is fairly new, but what could cause all power to shut off to everything. And then be fixed by simply reconnecting the battery. It sounds like a circuit breaker, but is there one in my car? Also the wire going from the button to the starter has been burning up (I had it running under the engine and over the exhaust) so the insulation is melting but I didn't see the metal showing, think it's that? (i'm gonna go fix that right now, if I dont freeze to death)

If the starter has a dead short inside,its connecting the + with the -.,causing it to appear like it has no power.unhooking th battery is probably resetting the starter.if its not that then its a relay,or temperature regulated breaker in the circut somwhere.

i would figure its your added switch,but i dont think so.if that was shorting out you would have smelled it by now.....

just for kicks,why dont you go ahead and check out your original start switch,located on the steering column.check it for a partial conection.
what was the reason for adding a push button start?

Yeah, I've burned one up before, smoke everywhere. But what I mean about the no power thing is there's no power to anything in the car, not just the starter. Lights, dash, windows, locks...as if the battery was disconnected, and then when I reconnect it, everything is back to normal. Does that change your answer any? or did you already know that?

i figured that.most solenoids have three wires going to them.one to the ignition switch,one to the charging system,and one to the computer and various ignition control curcuits.any other systems,such as stereos,amps,and non-critical electrical devices are supposed to be offline during the start process.this is to prevent damage from occuring to sensative electronic devices.But the computer and distributor,and charging system shoud stay on during engine start period ,(in your case while your finger is on the button),and should be protected from surging with a appropriatly placed fusible link.

the three wires i am talking about all run into the start side of the solenoid.have you checked your battery voltage?

check the connections at the starter.My crown vics battery just took a dump on me,due to the weather change.i can charge it for two minutes,and itll start and run fine all day.if i let it sit all night,it will not start in the cold mornings.but if i warm it up with a charger,itll start in less than 2 minutes of charging.it just started this problem,on the coldest day we have had here in okc this year.

Yeah it's colder than ever here in Ny too, but yeah the first thing I checked was the battery voltage and it's perfect (that's new too). And since I have the button straight to the starter, none of the other systems power off for starting like they're supposed to when you turn the key. I'm gonna go out here in this cold right now, i'll check the connections at the starter, see if they're contacting each other. But you don't think it could be anything to do w/ the battery connections? (I don't see how, but maybe you do)

just for kicks,why dont you go ahead and check out your original start switch,located on the steering column.check it for a partial conection.
what was the reason for adding a push button start?


oh missed this post...well the ignition switch was going bad and working intermittently so I just bypassed it...at first. Then the key wouldn't even turn in the switch so I couldnt use my button, so I replaced the switch (still didn't work normally, but the button worked). Then the thing that's on the steering column for the ignition switch wasn't getting power when I turned the key, so I just bypassed where ever the break in the line was with a wire to the battery. And it's been fine since then, till now. Starter, Battery, Battery Cables, Ignition Switch, and Alternator are all new.

if it is in the starter,its not going to be a place that you can see externally.

Well I just went out there...and it seems when I wiggle the wire going from the button to the starter, it starts. And that's the wire that's burning up, so i'm gonna go ahead and replace that, or at least the portion that is melting, and re-route it. Another thing, I have it running right now, and the fan is running constantly, and it's freezing out!! The engine is still cold, the fan is not supposed to be on right? Could that have something to do with my timing being advanced?

if the battery was bought faulty,it could have a post losing contact inside the battery.Im starting to feel like your problem may be hard to define without looking at it in person.im just giving you ideas based on repairs i have made,with the same problem description.

hmmm, well it's warrantied I could try getting it replaced, but now I can't get it to not start, so I don't know if i'm fixing the problem or not. I got another problem now though, but i'll make a different thread.

yes,if the temp sensor is bad ,it will make the fan stay on all the time,or not work at all.it will also make the computer lie to the engine,about how much timing and fuel it requires for current conditions.check temp sensors,and run a switch to the fan.
p.s. is your car a standard.if so maybe a neutral safety switch has caused your*original*no start problem.i think you should try replacing the start switch(not the key tumbler),and go back to your original start switch,before more problems occur electrically

I hear ya there, i've never had a car with so many electrical issues without having been flooded lol. But after you read my power loss thread, do you think the temp sensor could be that problem as well, since the fan is on constantly? just post that answer over there if ya could.