1992 Maxima J30/VG30E not starting when warm
pkirksmith67
11-25-2004, 04:52 PM
I need some help badly and hope that someone out there would have been through this and can help me. I have a 1992 Maxima (J30/ VG30E) and presently it's not starting when the engine is warm. When the engine is cold, it starts in 1/2 a swing, but as long as it gets warmed up, the engine turns over and does not start. ABout 6 months ago, it did the same thing for like 10 days and stopped without doing anything to it. It has started again yesterday and I wanna have it fixed. The only thing I have noticed is that it has started after I had the engine washed (like last time). Can anyone out there help me, PLEASE.
Nahkapohjola
11-29-2004, 07:55 AM
More definition needed... But here some probable causes:
Generally: cold wiring contacts conduct electricity better than warmed. Is your maxima general maintenance done ok?
- Check open/clean all wiring connectors of oxidation.
- Ignition parts: distributor cap/rotor, spark cables, plugs --> Change.
- Throttle pos sensor (even new one!) ...erratic idle. --> Change. Take care: Power waterwash will definitely inject water into this small black box on the throttle axle end...
- Mass airflow meter (box after air filter) faulty
- "1/2 a swing": whatever that means... but Maxima engine has a 'safe-mode' for example when ECU does not detect all sensors working properly. In this mode RPM will not exceed 2500.
- Surely the ECU has an error code? Educate uself to use it... It might even point you the fault source.
Generally: cold wiring contacts conduct electricity better than warmed. Is your maxima general maintenance done ok?
- Check open/clean all wiring connectors of oxidation.
- Ignition parts: distributor cap/rotor, spark cables, plugs --> Change.
- Throttle pos sensor (even new one!) ...erratic idle. --> Change. Take care: Power waterwash will definitely inject water into this small black box on the throttle axle end...
- Mass airflow meter (box after air filter) faulty
- "1/2 a swing": whatever that means... but Maxima engine has a 'safe-mode' for example when ECU does not detect all sensors working properly. In this mode RPM will not exceed 2500.
- Surely the ECU has an error code? Educate uself to use it... It might even point you the fault source.
pkirksmith67
12-06-2004, 10:20 AM
Thanks for your response and I hope that this will make things easier for you to help me. At present, my maxima idles between 700 to 2300rpm. I have also notices that the radiator fans come on, even when the engine is cold, but it stays on for like a second or two intermittantly. I travel a lot (sometimes 3 weeks a month) and when I am home, I put less than 20 miles a day on it, so I service the car every 6 months or so. I will change the Distributor cap and plug cables later this week. How do I get to the ECU and where do I get more info on reading the ECU? Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks again for the info you have given so far.
Nahkapohjola
12-06-2004, 01:03 PM
Not much experience, but I figure your engine is in safe mode now.
That points to wiring or sensor problem.
Mass Airflow Meter MAF (just next from filterbox):
Copy from somewhere:
Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction: If the MAF voltage is below the specified value, the ECM senses a mass airflow sensor malfunction. In this case, the throttle position sensor substitutes for the mass airflow sensor. Although the MAF is malfunctioning, it is possible to start the engine and drive. However, engine speed will not rise more than 2400rpm.
Haynes Manual:
Put a DVM probes into MAF pin b (second from left) & gnd
- Ign on, engine stopped 1V
- Idling, temp up 1-1,7V
- 2500 rpm 1.5-2.1V
- Important: linear voltage rise up to 4000rpm.
You say !idle!. Do you mean really idling goes to 2300? Can you rev over 2500? If so, I eat my safemode words.
Idle system gets stuck by carbon accumalation. One has to clean the system every 60.000miles. If you are handy, opening the stepper motor assy four hex nuts and cleaning is no big deal. Likewise the throttle assy. Next step (if fault persists) is to replace TPS Throttle pos sensor (90$) which cause idle & running problems. I opened and repaired it myself, quite tricky but can be done.
---------------------------------------------------------------
ECU instructions can be best found on Chilton/Haynes manual (20$?), also some places in the net. ECU is located just beside the gas pedal. Try finding info here:
http://www.newshampark.org.uk/bignissansold/j30/
http://www.maxima.org/
http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/93/104/
This has a long story on troubleshooting:
Here Parts from it:
But if all that is okay, and/or the Check Engine light is on (Nissans didn't get this warning device until '88 for California and '89 federally), the next logical step is to engage the self-diagnostics. Unlike most other carmakers, Nissan has you go right to the ECU for this. Remove it from the passenger's side kick panel, then find the mode selector screw and the port in the housing through which a red and a green LED are visible.
Switch on the ignition, turn the selector screw clockwise all the way, and watch the LEDs. They'll flash once, then pause, twice then pause, and on up to five times to indicate the five diagnostic modes. When you see the number of the mode you want, turn the screw counter-clockwise.
*Modes & codes
Mode 1 is called the "Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitor" because it informs you about oxygen sensor activity. With the engine running and fully warmed up, the green LED should blink, going on when the sensor sends a lean signal and off when it sends a rich signal. You should see 5-10 flashes every 10 seconds. If the LED is on more than it's off, there's a lean condition, and vice versa. Sluggish blinking should make you suspect a fouled sensor.
Mode 2, the Mixture Ratio Feedback Control Monitor, lets you know whether or not the air/fuel mixture is being controlled within the proper range. If the red and green LED's flash pretty much simultaneously with the engine running, mix control is okay. If the red LED is off more often than the green one, richness is indicated. If the red is on more than its mate, think lean.
Mode 3 has the name "Self-Diagnostic," and it's more what you're used to on other vehicles because it yields fault codes, both hard and intermittent, which are communicated to you by means of the flashing of both LED's. The red one gives the first digit, and the green one the second digit. For instance, if the red flashes twice, then the green flashes once, you've got a Code 21.
Get the engine up to normal temp, preferably by driving the car for 10 minutes, then pull the codes. In the case of a no-start, crank the engine for at least two seconds. If you see 55, all is well (in older models, 44 meant the same thing). Be sure to write down any other codes because they'll be erased when you go on to Mode 4, which means you will have lost any help on intermittents. Normally, codes are retained in memory for fifty starts.
Mode 4, called the "Switches On/Off Diagnostic Mode," checks the function of the switches that serve as inputs to the ECU, specifically those for ignition key start position, idle, and vehicle speed. For the first two, the red LED will go on or off when switch status is changed. In other words, with the ignition on, the red light should illuminate both when you step on the gas pedal and when you turn the key to start. If not, check the appropriate circuit. The vehicle speed sensor lights the green LED when you exceed 12 mph (get the drive wheels off the floor to do this in the shop, or have a helper drive while you keep your eyes on the ECU).
Mode 5 ("Real-Time") gives instantaneous trouble codes to let you know what's going on right now in four monitored circuits. Codes are flashed out just once when a malfunction is detected, then they're immediately forgotten. And the way you read them is different -- you observe the flashing of one LED or the other, the red one reporting on the crank angle sensor and the fuel pump circuits, and the green on the air flow meter and ignition signal circuits.
If the red LED pulses out a series of long flashes separated by equally long pauses, a malfunction in the crank angle sensor or its circuit's indicated. Groups of three short flashes of the red LED point to the fuel pump or its circuit. With the green LED, two medium flashes followed by a pause, then two again, and so on, should cause you to suspect the air flow meter and its related wiring. Groups of four flashes mean there's a problem with the ignition signal.
This is an extremely sensitive and very useful mode. You can wiggle wires and connectors, rap on components, and have somebody else drive the car while you watch for those fleeting indications of trouble. You'll know everything's okay if you see no flashing in five minutes of revving and idling.
ECU Codes:
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit.
That points to wiring or sensor problem.
Mass Airflow Meter MAF (just next from filterbox):
Copy from somewhere:
Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction: If the MAF voltage is below the specified value, the ECM senses a mass airflow sensor malfunction. In this case, the throttle position sensor substitutes for the mass airflow sensor. Although the MAF is malfunctioning, it is possible to start the engine and drive. However, engine speed will not rise more than 2400rpm.
Haynes Manual:
Put a DVM probes into MAF pin b (second from left) & gnd
- Ign on, engine stopped 1V
- Idling, temp up 1-1,7V
- 2500 rpm 1.5-2.1V
- Important: linear voltage rise up to 4000rpm.
You say !idle!. Do you mean really idling goes to 2300? Can you rev over 2500? If so, I eat my safemode words.
Idle system gets stuck by carbon accumalation. One has to clean the system every 60.000miles. If you are handy, opening the stepper motor assy four hex nuts and cleaning is no big deal. Likewise the throttle assy. Next step (if fault persists) is to replace TPS Throttle pos sensor (90$) which cause idle & running problems. I opened and repaired it myself, quite tricky but can be done.
---------------------------------------------------------------
ECU instructions can be best found on Chilton/Haynes manual (20$?), also some places in the net. ECU is located just beside the gas pedal. Try finding info here:
http://www.newshampark.org.uk/bignissansold/j30/
http://www.maxima.org/
http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/93/104/
This has a long story on troubleshooting:
Here Parts from it:
But if all that is okay, and/or the Check Engine light is on (Nissans didn't get this warning device until '88 for California and '89 federally), the next logical step is to engage the self-diagnostics. Unlike most other carmakers, Nissan has you go right to the ECU for this. Remove it from the passenger's side kick panel, then find the mode selector screw and the port in the housing through which a red and a green LED are visible.
Switch on the ignition, turn the selector screw clockwise all the way, and watch the LEDs. They'll flash once, then pause, twice then pause, and on up to five times to indicate the five diagnostic modes. When you see the number of the mode you want, turn the screw counter-clockwise.
*Modes & codes
Mode 1 is called the "Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitor" because it informs you about oxygen sensor activity. With the engine running and fully warmed up, the green LED should blink, going on when the sensor sends a lean signal and off when it sends a rich signal. You should see 5-10 flashes every 10 seconds. If the LED is on more than it's off, there's a lean condition, and vice versa. Sluggish blinking should make you suspect a fouled sensor.
Mode 2, the Mixture Ratio Feedback Control Monitor, lets you know whether or not the air/fuel mixture is being controlled within the proper range. If the red and green LED's flash pretty much simultaneously with the engine running, mix control is okay. If the red LED is off more often than the green one, richness is indicated. If the red is on more than its mate, think lean.
Mode 3 has the name "Self-Diagnostic," and it's more what you're used to on other vehicles because it yields fault codes, both hard and intermittent, which are communicated to you by means of the flashing of both LED's. The red one gives the first digit, and the green one the second digit. For instance, if the red flashes twice, then the green flashes once, you've got a Code 21.
Get the engine up to normal temp, preferably by driving the car for 10 minutes, then pull the codes. In the case of a no-start, crank the engine for at least two seconds. If you see 55, all is well (in older models, 44 meant the same thing). Be sure to write down any other codes because they'll be erased when you go on to Mode 4, which means you will have lost any help on intermittents. Normally, codes are retained in memory for fifty starts.
Mode 4, called the "Switches On/Off Diagnostic Mode," checks the function of the switches that serve as inputs to the ECU, specifically those for ignition key start position, idle, and vehicle speed. For the first two, the red LED will go on or off when switch status is changed. In other words, with the ignition on, the red light should illuminate both when you step on the gas pedal and when you turn the key to start. If not, check the appropriate circuit. The vehicle speed sensor lights the green LED when you exceed 12 mph (get the drive wheels off the floor to do this in the shop, or have a helper drive while you keep your eyes on the ECU).
Mode 5 ("Real-Time") gives instantaneous trouble codes to let you know what's going on right now in four monitored circuits. Codes are flashed out just once when a malfunction is detected, then they're immediately forgotten. And the way you read them is different -- you observe the flashing of one LED or the other, the red one reporting on the crank angle sensor and the fuel pump circuits, and the green on the air flow meter and ignition signal circuits.
If the red LED pulses out a series of long flashes separated by equally long pauses, a malfunction in the crank angle sensor or its circuit's indicated. Groups of three short flashes of the red LED point to the fuel pump or its circuit. With the green LED, two medium flashes followed by a pause, then two again, and so on, should cause you to suspect the air flow meter and its related wiring. Groups of four flashes mean there's a problem with the ignition signal.
This is an extremely sensitive and very useful mode. You can wiggle wires and connectors, rap on components, and have somebody else drive the car while you watch for those fleeting indications of trouble. You'll know everything's okay if you see no flashing in five minutes of revving and idling.
ECU Codes:
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit.
infinman
12-09-2004, 01:33 PM
Sounds like a lot of crap to go through when a simple fault code diagnosis is required.Sounds like too many people are replacing way too many parts for a single problem.Changing parts until the problem goes away is no way to repair computer controlled systems.Find yourself a good technician you can trust. Ask around,they do exist.Whenever a ECU goes to "fail safe" the "ses" light WILL BE ON.ECU's do not reset themselves.Codes donot disappear by themselves.A code is stored in memory until it is erased or it rolls off the list{too many codes stored}.Also when you do successfully repair your problem you must clear the code from memory or the next time you have a problem that code will be there plus the new code.This can creat a confusing situation.The freeze frame data{only read with a scanner}supplies all the info at time of failure.Diagnosis is very simple done this way.Doing it any other way will only cause frustration and empty your wallet.
Nahkapohjola
12-10-2004, 05:41 AM
"Sounds like a lot of crap"
- how did you help pkirksmith67 in need of info? By mocking the forum who gives out free info for the codes you just babble.
"Posted by pkirksmith67 - 11-25-2004 at 11:52 PM
I need some help badly and hope that someone out there..."
What info did you provide to him or the forum? NONE. Just one quote... "like a lot of crap Sounds"
----------------------------------------------
What the sensors send, in best case ECU most probably receives and works out showing the logic determined source via error code. For diag devices in complex environments it is typical time to time NOT present any error code, or wrong code. This is due to poor signal [mfg. cost cutting] level and long complex wirings in corrosive environment. In failsafe environments sent signals are amplified on much higher levels containing also with error correction, which is not case in current car tech.
General maintenance via replacing worn parts is wisdom that Soundbags will never grasp...
For attentive readers: High voltage, rubber parts etc. wear out due to material aging, environment = They are to be replaced periodically, - do not listen to crap... Sensors have to be individually tested before replacement due to higher cost.
Only after most components in a complex system do work satisfactorily a diag device can possibly give a error code pointing to a precise place: multiple simultaneus errors mask always a problem causing wrong diagnosis [as well to diag devices, servicemen and always to windbags.] This is just the very elementary step in climbing the Kepner Tregoe problemsolving tree.
I have seen one humble switch to produce havoc in a system which had 1000x error registry capacity ECU could ever contain, causing error flags to jump on intermittently all around the registries, randomly, without any wisdom. And that switch happened to be imbedded in a computer network server system, mind u, NOT PC's. The onsite engineer there before my arrival had been trying to figure out this error for one week [ONE WEEK!] by blindly combing through millions of error flags. Never happened to humble himself and kneel down to inspect that "Sounds like a lot of crap -SWITCH"
And that was just ONE tiny part. Go figure when all parts are worn...
This crap is happening, continuously, all over the globe. And you pay for their salary, dear reader...
- how did you help pkirksmith67 in need of info? By mocking the forum who gives out free info for the codes you just babble.
"Posted by pkirksmith67 - 11-25-2004 at 11:52 PM
I need some help badly and hope that someone out there..."
What info did you provide to him or the forum? NONE. Just one quote... "like a lot of crap Sounds"
----------------------------------------------
What the sensors send, in best case ECU most probably receives and works out showing the logic determined source via error code. For diag devices in complex environments it is typical time to time NOT present any error code, or wrong code. This is due to poor signal [mfg. cost cutting] level and long complex wirings in corrosive environment. In failsafe environments sent signals are amplified on much higher levels containing also with error correction, which is not case in current car tech.
General maintenance via replacing worn parts is wisdom that Soundbags will never grasp...
For attentive readers: High voltage, rubber parts etc. wear out due to material aging, environment = They are to be replaced periodically, - do not listen to crap... Sensors have to be individually tested before replacement due to higher cost.
Only after most components in a complex system do work satisfactorily a diag device can possibly give a error code pointing to a precise place: multiple simultaneus errors mask always a problem causing wrong diagnosis [as well to diag devices, servicemen and always to windbags.] This is just the very elementary step in climbing the Kepner Tregoe problemsolving tree.
I have seen one humble switch to produce havoc in a system which had 1000x error registry capacity ECU could ever contain, causing error flags to jump on intermittently all around the registries, randomly, without any wisdom. And that switch happened to be imbedded in a computer network server system, mind u, NOT PC's. The onsite engineer there before my arrival had been trying to figure out this error for one week [ONE WEEK!] by blindly combing through millions of error flags. Never happened to humble himself and kneel down to inspect that "Sounds like a lot of crap -SWITCH"
And that was just ONE tiny part. Go figure when all parts are worn...
This crap is happening, continuously, all over the globe. And you pay for their salary, dear reader...
infinman
12-10-2004, 12:44 PM
Bud.You need to tell us what drugs you are using so we can get you the proper medical attention.Holy shit is your mind ever scrammbled.We think you are in the wrong forum.People here need simple information that they can use.Talk about windbags, check out ALL your posts..Do us a favour and piss off.
infinman
12-10-2004, 12:46 PM
By the way. "sounds like a lot of crap.... was directed at you,notpkirksmith67.Jackoff
Nahkapohjola
12-11-2004, 04:06 AM
In time, you will reap what u sow. Just wait without any behaviour change. Eternity? ...terrible even to think...
People here need info, not rage or pee.
He that is unjust, let him be unjust still: and he which is filthy, let him be filthy still: and he that is righteous, let him be righteous still: and he that is holy, let him be holy still.
People here need info, not rage or pee.
He that is unjust, let him be unjust still: and he which is filthy, let him be filthy still: and he that is righteous, let him be righteous still: and he that is holy, let him be holy still.
infinman
12-14-2004, 11:43 AM
Ohhh thank you Lord.
James218
12-19-2004, 07:46 PM
I would listen to nahkapohjola he knows what he is talking about. He has already helped me out.
infinman
01-28-2005, 12:28 PM
From a technicians point of view MOST of his info is unrealistic CRAP.Someone fed this boy some tall stories.{wrapping ignition coils in vulcanized rubber?}"nuf said.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026