Looking at this
Urban_Squrill
11-25-2004, 04:12 AM
I have decided to keep my NT.(I know but still I am doing it). I want to get a turbo for it. I know what parts and have the know how to do it(with the help of a few of my friends). I found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7936392482&category=33742
I know it seems a lot for a non intercooled system with no fuel system but I can get it financed. How good is that turbo? I am not really looking to push more then 10 psi really ever with this car. I was thinking of getting that a smic(put it behind my raditor) turbo fuel pump rewired and some stock 450cc, I still need a safc-II right? Is it worth it?
I know it seems a lot for a non intercooled system with no fuel system but I can get it financed. How good is that turbo? I am not really looking to push more then 10 psi really ever with this car. I was thinking of getting that a smic(put it behind my raditor) turbo fuel pump rewired and some stock 450cc, I still need a safc-II right? Is it worth it?
coolguycooz
11-25-2004, 04:58 AM
i wouldnt do that its a waste of money 1400 just for that. Besides that just looks kind of weird i wouldnt trust it. But its your money. And why get a turbo kit at all if you just want to do 10 psi.
george536
11-25-2004, 03:45 PM
i wouldnt do that its a waste of money 1400 just for that. Besides that just looks kind of weird i wouldnt trust it. But its your money. And why get a turbo kit at all if you just want to do 10 psi.
Because then he will have to do internals if he wants to go any higher.
Because then he will have to do internals if he wants to go any higher.
coolguycooz
11-25-2004, 04:02 PM
Did you not see him. He said i dont want to go any higher then 10 psi. There really is no point in throwing away 1400 if your only going to do 10 psi. Im really guessing he just wants it for the show but he wont even have an intercooler and 1400 for just the blow off valve sound?
george536
11-25-2004, 06:23 PM
Some people just want an extra push to there car. they dont want to beat everything onthe street, but just enough to get him past some cars.
coolguycooz
11-25-2004, 07:07 PM
get him past some cars? It wouldnt really get him far at all. 10 psi? He would pust more stress on his 420 A one way of looking at it is.
This is actually the advertisment. No internals needed pay 1400 to blow up your 420 a engine. So pretty much he would be paying money to blow up his own engine. 10 psi would push his car a little but with stock internals it would cut his engine life by a lot. 10 psi on a stock 420a not very good. Pretty much you would be paying 1400 to blow up your engine is one way of looking at it.
This is actually the advertisment. No internals needed pay 1400 to blow up your 420 a engine. So pretty much he would be paying money to blow up his own engine. 10 psi would push his car a little but with stock internals it would cut his engine life by a lot. 10 psi on a stock 420a not very good. Pretty much you would be paying 1400 to blow up your engine is one way of looking at it.
kjewer1
11-25-2004, 07:53 PM
10 psi will provide a ~40% HP improvement over stock assuming 14.7 psi atmospheric pressure, or roughly the power of a stock turbo DSM. 8 psi would be about a 35% improvement. I dont know what pressure (flow) stock 420s can take, but thats not the issue in this thread.
Defintely do not put the IC behind the radiator. Having 200 degree air blow through the IC will not help your cuase. Try to get a cheap stock 2g SMIC and put it in a similar location to the turbo cars. You can make your own piping with regular ehaust pipe and bends.
Something that seems odd to me is he says you can run 6 psi to keep boost down, but it is wastegated at 8 psi ;)
Looking at the t3 super 60 map it looks simlar to a 16g, doesnt seem bad at all. Should match the 420 well. http://64.225.76.178/catalog/compmaps/fig5.html
Log manifolds are the least efficient but they work. That O2 housing looks like its not very free flowing but at low boost levels it should suffice.
You will want larger injectors most likely, I Wish I knew more about the NTs. But either way, with non stock injectors you need some way to compensate for them, as you suspect.
Turbonetics lists the turbo at ~8-900 bucks. Is the rest of the stuff worth another 500 bucks? looks like its pretty close. If you dont feel like piecing all this BS together for yourself, then it may be worth the extra money. Thats your call.
EDIT> Dammit, hit reply by accident. Where was I.
If I was stuck with a NT for whatever reason I would certainly consider this a viable option. But remember that I am not very experienced with NTs. But my basic plan would be to run low boost (get a new spring for ~25 bucks if you want to run less than 8 psi) as it is. Then later on if engine internals is in my future, do the upgrades, then run a smic or FMIC and raise the boost with a MBC or whatever. Since that turbo is roughly 16g sized it will work well up to the same limits for turbo cars. So around 18 psi in most cases on pump is max, and up to 25 psi on high octane race fuel. And since I would do all the work myself it would cost me very little to do internals.
Shit, I might have to get a NT just to try my hand at this bullshit. :D I should really read that turboing a NT thread...
Edit again> I dont like that filter setup at all. Being right on the turbo odds are it sits right behind the radiator. Terrible. Use some exhaust tubing of the right diamter to put the filter where it can get relatively cool air. Doesnt have to be a "cold air intake," but it should definitely not be a 200 degree hot air intake ;)
Defintely do not put the IC behind the radiator. Having 200 degree air blow through the IC will not help your cuase. Try to get a cheap stock 2g SMIC and put it in a similar location to the turbo cars. You can make your own piping with regular ehaust pipe and bends.
Something that seems odd to me is he says you can run 6 psi to keep boost down, but it is wastegated at 8 psi ;)
Looking at the t3 super 60 map it looks simlar to a 16g, doesnt seem bad at all. Should match the 420 well. http://64.225.76.178/catalog/compmaps/fig5.html
Log manifolds are the least efficient but they work. That O2 housing looks like its not very free flowing but at low boost levels it should suffice.
You will want larger injectors most likely, I Wish I knew more about the NTs. But either way, with non stock injectors you need some way to compensate for them, as you suspect.
Turbonetics lists the turbo at ~8-900 bucks. Is the rest of the stuff worth another 500 bucks? looks like its pretty close. If you dont feel like piecing all this BS together for yourself, then it may be worth the extra money. Thats your call.
EDIT> Dammit, hit reply by accident. Where was I.
If I was stuck with a NT for whatever reason I would certainly consider this a viable option. But remember that I am not very experienced with NTs. But my basic plan would be to run low boost (get a new spring for ~25 bucks if you want to run less than 8 psi) as it is. Then later on if engine internals is in my future, do the upgrades, then run a smic or FMIC and raise the boost with a MBC or whatever. Since that turbo is roughly 16g sized it will work well up to the same limits for turbo cars. So around 18 psi in most cases on pump is max, and up to 25 psi on high octane race fuel. And since I would do all the work myself it would cost me very little to do internals.
Shit, I might have to get a NT just to try my hand at this bullshit. :D I should really read that turboing a NT thread...
Edit again> I dont like that filter setup at all. Being right on the turbo odds are it sits right behind the radiator. Terrible. Use some exhaust tubing of the right diamter to put the filter where it can get relatively cool air. Doesnt have to be a "cold air intake," but it should definitely not be a 200 degree hot air intake ;)
Urban_Squrill
11-25-2004, 09:19 PM
BLah I have been thinking about it and still do not know what I really want to do. I want a car that is faster now, beacause in a year I am going to be getting a 93 300zxTT. I can do all the word my self. I figure that I can build a whole kit for 1400.
I figure that eventualy If I turbo i will redo the internals. But what am I looking at to redo them 2-3 large? I think that I will be picing together a kit starting the 1st of next year. Looks like a 14b is for me. The big whore of building the kit your self is the manifold. If i wanted to go with a t3/t4 i could get one for like 200bucks but then I would have to spend a lot more on the turbo for the setup(on dsmtrader I have found many for about 60 bucks).
I am thinking 14b, 1g BOV, stock 450cc injectors, rewired turbo fuel pump, Safc-II Stock SMIC, custom exhaust, ARP head studs becides all the odds and ends am I missing anything?
I figure that eventualy If I turbo i will redo the internals. But what am I looking at to redo them 2-3 large? I think that I will be picing together a kit starting the 1st of next year. Looks like a 14b is for me. The big whore of building the kit your self is the manifold. If i wanted to go with a t3/t4 i could get one for like 200bucks but then I would have to spend a lot more on the turbo for the setup(on dsmtrader I have found many for about 60 bucks).
I am thinking 14b, 1g BOV, stock 450cc injectors, rewired turbo fuel pump, Safc-II Stock SMIC, custom exhaust, ARP head studs becides all the odds and ends am I missing anything?
Urban_Squrill
11-25-2004, 09:41 PM
If I redid my internals would that just include Rods pistions rings head gasket?
guitarXgeek
11-26-2004, 12:52 AM
If you just want something to make your N/T faster for now until you get your 300zx, I'd strongly suggest nitrous. This will be a good bit cheaper than a turbo kit, less hassle, and give you about the same power output (maybe slightly less). A local has a 75 shot on his 97 N/T, and he's running 14.9's pretty consistently on street tires. A simple turbo kit like that would net you probably low 14's high 13's, but since you'll only have it for a year or so I really don't think it'd be worth it. Go for some nitrous, I'm positive you won't be disappointed :)
Urban_Squrill
11-26-2004, 01:55 AM
Nitrous is exspensive. My friend has a 75 shot wet NX kit on his outback(yes the subaru, sleeper). ITs cool but does not last that long and costs a lot. I am planing on making this my daily driver. I like to race, and i dont want to have some chump in a riced out civic beat my ass beacause I did not have my 300zx. I am looking at making it a fast(300whp) daily driver. I am in love with this car and could not sell it to get a new car.
I am starting to make a list of what I need and how much it costs. But the problem is the manifold. I dont have access to a rod welder, and it sounds like jake is busy, and I dont fell like paying 600bucks for one.
Can I use a turbo downpipe and exhaust?
I am starting to make a list of what I need and how much it costs. But the problem is the manifold. I dont have access to a rod welder, and it sounds like jake is busy, and I dont fell like paying 600bucks for one.
Can I use a turbo downpipe and exhaust?
pr0
11-26-2004, 12:11 PM
I say go for it. You would have a larger chance blowing your internals with nitrous than a turbo kit running 5-7 psi. Not to mention, 5 psi already puts your car comparible to a stock GS-T. Don't run 10 psi though! It will hurt your engine. I wouldn't even go past 8-9 on the stock bottom end, your rings will start to wear out.
Urban_Squrill
11-26-2004, 01:11 PM
Would it be ok to run 5-7 daily and 10 on race nights?
1stGenRocks
11-26-2004, 07:11 PM
how often are race nights? it would be fine to run 10 all the time its just the higher you run the faster youll wear out your engine
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