Still No Heat!!!!!!!!!! Help!!!!!

Ok guys, i have a serious brain buster!! Here is what the problem is, NO heat at all coming out of the heater, the fan is just blowin cold air.


Here is what i have done/replaced,

-replaced thermostat, (bought a 190F and tested it on boiling water, works fine, also put a new gasket on it, and i installed i properly, with the spring facing the motor,)
-Replaced Radiator cap, works fine.
-took or Heater core hoses, ran a hose through the core at full blast from each side using hot and cold H20, Also tried runnin the fan with the hot water in it seing if it would generate a bit of heat? still no dice,)
-Checked the HOt/COld Switch/valve took it out, it opens and closes fully and smoothly, the cable to it also works fine.
-refilled it, bled the radiator, with all caps off, even ran it with out the rad cap to rid of the bubbles, put cap back on and still no heat, (even after a drive for 3 mins at 4500/rpm...


Soooo this is some more info, after running it hot the intake and the out hoses to the heater core are warm/hot, warm enough to grab it and just bairly enough to hold on to it for more than 4 seconds... (ok after a long time running the hoses get hot, uncomfortably hot)


Sooo could it be my h2o pump?? Can these things be going or are they working or just not working??

Is there anything else? guys your help will be greatly appreciated, Please lemme know! feel free to chat with me at [email protected] on msn, thanks again, Jamie!

is your nob turned to cold?

ok,
1st of all,
everything you done above,is not gonna make your heater blow hot air,
I've took are heaters apart!
(completely)
inside the blower theres a little metal wire(sort of like a jumper wire)
sticking out,
when the blower motor is turned on,manually it just turns like a fan,
but if you plug in a plug thats under there(i think its clear or blue)
(under the glove compartment)
it turns red hot!
& thats how hot air is formed in a 4th gen civic!
make shore thats plugged in & there are NO fuses that is blowed,
because there are fuses to the heater blower,
good luck

^^I guess im not 100% positive, but I dont think thats right. I dont know what "red hot jumper wire" your talking about. So the heater core has no purpose?? Anyways, Jerkwagon, the stuff you did were all good ideas. Did you check to make sure that when you turn the temperature know that the linkage actually opens/closes the hot water valve? Maybe the cable broke or it simply slipped off. Also, Im almost positive that theres a door that opens and closes under the dash when you turn the knob from hot to cold. Make sure thats working properly also. You'll be able to see it if you just get your head under the dash and look under the very center of everything under there. Behind the center console a couple inches above the floor. Good luck

Yeah i dont think that makes any sense at all either, EVERYONE READ THIS!!!! IT IS NOT MY HOT/COLD SWITCH CABLE OR VALVE OK???? I know i said this in my original quote but i dont ithink i worded it right. so yeah anyone else got any info, as off right now the only thing i think it can be is that something is blocking the heater core from the fan?? like i have no i dea what but maybe somethign is covering it?? anyhoo, still any help will help out a ton since winter is soooo close!!! thanks again , jamie!

try this, It may be a little messy, but if your carefull it shouldnt be. Unhook the heater hoses and put them in a bucket, something that wil hold a fair amount of water without it splshing out real easy, like a 5 gallon bucket, you may have to all some extra hose on, you caould even just unhook the hoses where they go into the block, go to the hardware store and get some cheep hose about the same size, its not going to be used but for just a few minutes. Run those hoses to the bucket, put it about 1/2 full of water, and start your car up. This way you will be able to see if the water is curculating, you'll have to beed the system again once your done, but you will know for sure if water is getting to the heater core or not.

Alright, I dont know if you knew what i was talking about. Heres a picture of it, its the one on the left...
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-21-16.jpg
When you turn the hot/cold knob make sure that this lever moves.

after i tried everything i was still baffled, then it dawned on me, plus after reading this thread again, i realised that one fo yous told me something to check but i guess i mis read it.. the problem was that when your turn the hot.cold knob you are moving 2 cables, 1 to the coolant valve that opens the flow to the heater core, the other opens and closes a panel to the vent, witch i guess covers the core so no heat can come off it.. so yeah it was the panel vent cover thingy, the cable came off.. I know i posted this a LONG time ago, but this is just for those who were seaching the web like me looking for an answer, here it is! thanks for all of your help guys!

glad to help

ok,
1st of all,
everything you done above,is not gonna make your heater blow hot air,
I've took are heaters apart!
(completely)
inside the blower theres a little metal wire(sort of like a jumper wire)
sticking out,
when the blower motor is turned on,manually it just turns like a fan,
but if you plug in a plug thats under there(i think its clear or blue)
(under the glove compartment)
it turns red hot!
& thats how hot air is formed in a 4th gen civic!
make shore thats plugged in & there are NO fuses that is blowed,
because there are fuses to the heater blower,
good luck

This guy is actually talking about the RHEOSTAT, to clear up the confusion. It has 4 wires going into it, 12V goes in, while the other 3 wires have resistance from the 'jumper wires' to give your 4 fan speeds. The 'jumper wires' look like toaster wire(cause they are)
It works by having the 12V go thru one loop of wire, to give you a med-high speed, 2 loops give you a med-low speed and 3 loops giving the most resistance, means your fans lowest speed.
Dude, it puts out as much heat as a TOASTER, how the phuck is that considered HOT?