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ok my last question (liar)


parkcaka
02-26-2002, 04:55 PM
you all know how newbie someone can get (me) and i want to ask you to recommend me the correct airbrush. it will be my first airbrush and will be the only one for a long time (the prices) so i want to have the right choice. i only have access to tamiya products.
so,

*tamiya spray-work basic air compressor with airbrush (cheap).
*tamiya spray-work HG superfine airbrush
*tamiya spray-work HG airbrush
*tamiya spray-work HG trigger-type airbrush
*tamiya spray-work HG single airbrush

so my first choice is the first one on the list. it is cheap and have the compressor thingy. i only do 1/24 car models so the shop said you wont need the extra quality the other choices can bring. so please help me.

parkcaka
02-27-2002, 05:13 AM
c'mon everybody can answer "should i sand the car after or before decals?" type of questions. answer this one to make difference in my model car hobby life. i need advice and i wont make a move until that because airbrushes are so expensive in here due to my country's import taxes. average tamiya brush is 275$.

ales
02-27-2002, 05:41 AM
The correct procedure (please make corrections / additions) as I understand it

primer (2-3 light coats)

sanding (1200 grit paper with a LOT of water)

Painting (3-4 extremely light coats with around 10 minutes between the coats)

wait at least 1 week for the paint to harden completely

rubbing compound (I'm a real monkey with this one at the moment and this step sort of prevents me from finishing my models)

details (window frames, handles, locks, and such)

decals

wax / polish

Hope this helps and good luck,
Alex

P.S. using rubbing compound on decals will ruin them. Also take your time and be careful when polishing.

ales
02-27-2002, 05:48 AM
oh, and of course you need to sand the body before using primer! As well as remove all the mould lines.

parkcaka
02-27-2002, 06:55 AM
thanks for the info (it is really vital info for a newbie like me) but it has nothing to do with my thread. its about choice of airbrushes.

parkcaka
02-28-2002, 05:47 AM
i am the only who doesnt use an airbrush in this forum and still nobody recommended anything for the past few days. i have to take the risk at the shop then.

daggerlee
02-28-2002, 06:58 AM
I didn't want to say anything because I don't have one either, but I have heard VERY VERY good things about:

IWATA's Eclipse line of series (most inexpensive, but still excellent)

Paasche VL's and Badger 100/150's

that's all I can really do, visit the rec.models.scale newsgroup if you want expert help

ales
02-28-2002, 07:09 AM
Warren doesn't use an airbrush. He doesn't even own one. I have a really bad one, and will probably buy a better one in the future. You see, you have a choice. I pretty much don't. I will have to go with a Revell airbrush. there are a couple of others on sale, but it would be impossible to get any spare parts for them. Like a bent / broken needle, etc.

I'm no expert in the field of airbrushes, but my personal preference would be double action (you control BOTH the amount of paint and the amount of air) internal mix one. Whether it's a "top loader" or a siphon action one doesn't really matter.

When buying an airbrush just make sure that you have warranty and that spare parts are easily available, so don't go for anything exotic.

Hope this helps, and waiting for others (Jay? Dan? Jason?) to make further comments.

Alex

primera man
02-28-2002, 08:11 AM
Sorry dude, cant help you on this one. Like Ales said i have never owned one. Every model i have has been done by can.
When it comes to window frames etc i just thin the enamel paint down to give it a nice finish.

hirofkd
02-28-2002, 08:34 AM
>> parkcaka
Saw my SW20 pictures in the other thread? Modeler's paint was sprayed from Tamiya SprayWork, the cheapest combo with gun trigger style plastic airbrush. The compressor is extremely noisy, but air flow is steady and strong. (better than Gunze's ultra silent L5 in terms of power) Airbrush itself is easy to use, because it's single action, and for a car body, it serves its purpose. I recommend SprayWork Revo, which is much quietter. In fact, I'm going to get one real soon.

parkcaka
02-28-2002, 05:10 PM
oh now im suprised. throughout the forum there was this feeling that you cant build those "pro looking" models without an airbrush but now i see that guys that produce models i highly admire doesnt even have one. that was a relief but i still want to have one cause i hate those brush marks left inside the car. and i hate to spend hours of swearing time to paint evenly with those damn brushes.

daggerlee
02-28-2002, 06:09 PM
be sure to get a spray booth too! or build your own (much cheaper), you'll be thankful later in life when your lungs aren't destroyed and your liver on its last legs ;)

parkcaka
02-28-2002, 07:49 PM
you tell me to "build a spray booth". thats sounds pretty much like "build your own microwave oven" for me:) my favorite word in english is "newbie".

let me tell you a little story. i bought my first kit (3 months ago) and came home with a great motive and so on(you all know what i mean) so i started the kit that night. the room was 2x2meters with no windows. after half an hour of work i accidently dropped the tamiya liquid cement on the floor(splashed everywhere). but the motive was so high that i didnt cleaned it and i continued doing the model (no painting just assembily). after 2 hours of work............................................I WAS SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO HIGH. :D :D :D i couldnt see my own hands everything was so blurry and all. it wasnt something near any state of drunkness. i couldnt stand up. fell on the floor with the body of my tamiya mazda rx-7 stuck with superglue on my sweater and front right suspension on my cheek. yelled mom. she helped me to bed and woke up with a big headache and the suspension still stuck on my right cheek. i vomited every 20 minutes for the day. and i am 24 not 6 or 8:D

so my first impression on modelling is not too nice. i still keep that model where every part is stuck on top of the other.(i call it the "nuclear bomb test dummy car").

daggerlee
02-28-2002, 09:08 PM
you tell me to "build a spray booth". thats sounds pretty much like "build your own microwave oven" for me my favorite word in english is "newbie".

ouch!! I see waht you mean :(

anyway, a spray booth is basically a box with a vacuum tube in it to suck all the nasty overspray and paint from the air, it's designed to keep you safe, not to cook you like a microwave oven, and especially if you are spraying in a 2x2 windowless room, then by all means, BUILD ONE!!!!

primera man
03-01-2002, 03:31 AM
Originally posted by parkcaka
i couldnt stand up. fell on the floor with the body of my tamiya mazda rx-7 stuck with superglue on my sweater and front right suspension on my cheek. yelled mom. she helped me to bed and woke up with a big headache and the suspension still stuck on my right cheek.


I know i shouldnt laugh....but that has me cracking up laughing :D :D

Sorry dude :p :p

parkcaka
03-01-2002, 07:09 AM
it ok:D what i learned from this experience:

call 8 friends for partying. get in a small room with no windows. splash 1 bottle of tamiya liquid thin cement all over the floor. wait for 45 minutes. go out an have fun.

its cheaper than beer:D

(you can spray TS-13 on the ceiling wall every 10 minutes or so to add flavour to your party experience, have fun)

PS.
warning: please do not spray TS-13 on your face. it is not funny.

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