SS Brake Lines
treeboy38
11-21-2004, 06:08 PM
Anyone installed SS brake lines? If you have, have you noticed any improvement? I was thinking that I might try and do this one day or do you think that it would be a difficult feat for a DIY'er to try?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&tc=photo&item=7929970864&category=33562
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&tc=photo&item=7929970864&category=33562
SublimeZ31
11-21-2004, 11:37 PM
i would think it would be pretty easy... just replace the rubber lines and bleed the air out... i dont see why it would be a special thing you couldnt do yourself
Indy8
11-22-2004, 03:41 PM
Strictly a "cool factor" item. The soft pedal condition the e-bay text refers to will never be there if no air is present in the brake system. Extreme race conditions(heat & pressure)may cause fade but never in a street car.
SublimeZ31
11-22-2004, 05:00 PM
thats not necessarily true Indy8... rubber lines (esp older ones or lesser quality ones, not that a classic aurora would be considered that old) expand when you put the pressure to them. this means less pressure gets to the piston and you can feel that expansion of lines as the "sponginess" they describe. i agree that if you dont use brakes harshly, you wont feel much, if any, difference, but i know on my motorcycle you could. also, im not sure about eliminating "ABS chatter" as some SS line ads mention is true, because i think you'd feel more of that.
as far as brake FADE... that is caused by heat building up in the friction surfaces, which lowers their coefficient of friction. basically, as the pads and rotor get hot, they slide against each other easier. SS lines dont help this at all
as far as brake FADE... that is caused by heat building up in the friction surfaces, which lowers their coefficient of friction. basically, as the pads and rotor get hot, they slide against each other easier. SS lines dont help this at all
Sweet William
11-22-2004, 09:18 PM
It would be a complete waste of time and money. IMO
With the brake system in good shape, A.B.S and a big sedan on the street I just don't see the point.
If you can tell me what good it would do maybe you can change my mind.
With the brake system in good shape, A.B.S and a big sedan on the street I just don't see the point.
If you can tell me what good it would do maybe you can change my mind.
Isnibs
11-22-2004, 09:26 PM
elan,
Before you start the job I would check to see if you can undo/disconnect the lines you want to change. I have found when working on brake components that they can get really rusted in and impossible to undo.
Before you start the job I would check to see if you can undo/disconnect the lines you want to change. I have found when working on brake components that they can get really rusted in and impossible to undo.
treeboy38
11-22-2004, 10:23 PM
thanks to everyone for the replies! I think the project is no derailed because of what I have read here as well as other placed. Thanks to everyone!
rodtice
11-24-2004, 03:07 PM
I can tell you it DOES make a difference, ONLY if you get it bled to the point of 0 air.
I have stainless on my motorcycle, rubber lines give, end of story. If you get rid of every point of expansion in the pedal gets very firm. I put some on my Aurora a few months ago, a generic set from the tire rack.
What I didn't like about them is they didn't have the block that fastens to the caliper, only the round fitting, this could allow the line to swivel and loosen, unlike the block fitting that is immoveable.
They also sent 1 line too short. So they got them back and I replace with rubber because I wasn't comfortable with the non locked fitting.
A local race shop would have made me an acceptable set for $160, a little richer than I wanted.
I have stainless on my motorcycle, rubber lines give, end of story. If you get rid of every point of expansion in the pedal gets very firm. I put some on my Aurora a few months ago, a generic set from the tire rack.
What I didn't like about them is they didn't have the block that fastens to the caliper, only the round fitting, this could allow the line to swivel and loosen, unlike the block fitting that is immoveable.
They also sent 1 line too short. So they got them back and I replace with rubber because I wasn't comfortable with the non locked fitting.
A local race shop would have made me an acceptable set for $160, a little richer than I wanted.
SublimeZ31
11-24-2004, 05:39 PM
rodtice...
my only experience has been with objects WELL under 4000 lbs haha... how much did it change the feel? on light braking do you feel it?
160 is a bit steep... but... might be worth it.
my only experience has been with objects WELL under 4000 lbs haha... how much did it change the feel? on light braking do you feel it?
160 is a bit steep... but... might be worth it.
rodtice
11-24-2004, 07:43 PM
since I didn't have 4 stainless I notice no diff on the aurora.
ON the motorcycle its worlds difference. Reason being is the second you apply the brake (lever) they are there now, light or heavy braking. Also made the OEM brakes much more effective as every pound of pressure applied to the lever is distributed with out a fraction of decrease at the caliper.
Under hard braking it really helps you modulate because you can feel every extra pound your squeezing.
I may get the race shop to build a set yet.
ON the motorcycle its worlds difference. Reason being is the second you apply the brake (lever) they are there now, light or heavy braking. Also made the OEM brakes much more effective as every pound of pressure applied to the lever is distributed with out a fraction of decrease at the caliper.
Under hard braking it really helps you modulate because you can feel every extra pound your squeezing.
I may get the race shop to build a set yet.
Sweet William
11-25-2004, 10:40 AM
I have stainless lines on my Vmax and Hayabusa. A definet plus on the bikes. You really can't compare those results with the braking demands of a 5,000 pound street car with anti lock brakes. It's not going to do anything negative unless like Isniibs stated, things don't come apart like they were new. It can turn into a nightmare fast.
rodtice
11-25-2004, 11:44 AM
Mine came apart no problem. IF you have a problem its really and easy fix with the proper tools. Pipe cutter, flare tool and a couple fittings. I have fixed many.
Also proper mechanic skills will save the pipe, you absolutely have to back up the pipe, or it'll twist off.
Also proper mechanic skills will save the pipe, you absolutely have to back up the pipe, or it'll twist off.
IronAuroraV8
11-26-2004, 08:34 PM
My brother has those on his 97 nissan maxima along with speedbleeders ( those are bleeders with check valve inside , allowing one man bleeding job )
He noticed nice improvemant in brake feel but mostly due to new rotors/pads and all the air properly bleed form the system.
He also said the installing those was pita due to old rubber lines beeing rusty. They do look good behind his TSW Revo wheels and calipers painted black.
My Aurora is riding on blank Brembo rotors with brand new pads and she stops on a dime.
Ironkrakus
He noticed nice improvemant in brake feel but mostly due to new rotors/pads and all the air properly bleed form the system.
He also said the installing those was pita due to old rubber lines beeing rusty. They do look good behind his TSW Revo wheels and calipers painted black.
My Aurora is riding on blank Brembo rotors with brand new pads and she stops on a dime.
Ironkrakus
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