Exhaust choice

I bought a 99 F-bird recently with a good amount of mileage and all around it's a good running car....I'm a little undecided between two Performance Exhaust I want to get for my 99 F-bird 3800 series V-6. My two choices or Magnaflow or the Flowmaster Series. I'm looking for the genuine "amrican muscle sound" and the one that has the best increased HP output. thanks for the advice

magnaflow sounds better.. get a high flow cat and a magnaflow system.. it will sound a lot better than the flowmasters in my opinion.. the flowmaster sounds too ricey on a v6.. but another option is Borla.. nice system, but very expensive...

If you want true musclecar sound,you have to scrap the single inlet dual outlet exaust.make absolutley certain you get a real dual system and not the fake crap they try to pass off as duals, or your performance will go out the window.You should get a set of hooker or headman headers,and dual cherry bombs.thats what a musclecar is supposed to sound like.Those little rice grinding imports with the loud mufflers and lights and spilers turned me off of the whole flowmaster sound.i would rather it run good,then be all talk and no go>

its damn near impossible to get a 'true muscle car sound' out of a V6 Camaro...

There are plenty of catback systems that are more cost effective while providing a awesome tone. I would not bother to put a true dual on a V6. There is no need for it and it would cost one arm and one leg.
John

its damn near impossible to get a 'true muscle car sound' out of a V6 Camaro...
I agree...

If he starts now he could have dual exhaust on his car just in time for the high mile v-6 motor to explode and for him to decide what he needs is a muscle car v-8 installed,wich in fact requires dual exhaust.After all,he said it has high miles,and i figure if he go ahead and put the duals on it now,once he does finish off that 3800,he will be that much closer to a hi peformance v-8.If the car has high miles,performance is not as important as how long is it going to last.

ok.. so what you're telling them to do is sink 800 bucks into an exhaust for a high mileage 3.8 that wont last long.. so that when it goes caput they spend upwards from 3000 putting in a used v8 with pry just as many miles on a chassis that has seen better days..?

in my opinion its more effective to trade in the sixer for an 8.. but as i have found its not always that affordable.. so this is the thing.. its a V6.. you can steadily put money into it.. until you're satisfied at the time.. (like myself), and then buy a V8.. or leave it alone.. and not put thousands into it. and instead save that money somewhere on the side for a big down payment on a V8 so it doesnt break your budget..

and john, one arm and one leg is an understatement for a true duel exhaust system for a v6..

KaotiKCamaro5 :your price chart is a little inacurate.You can buy a car with the engine\wiring harness for like 500 bucks.Next,having duals put on my car only costed 400 dollars,from a local flowmaster merchant.Just because you get robbed by your local parts house or mechanics,doent mean everybody does.Maybe you shold look for better deals,instead of trying to out smart sombody who has already been down this road,several times..


oh and btw,some of us would rather get a poke in the eye with a sharp stick,instead of selling a car they have grown fond of.

My son has a 94 w/ 3.4. the cat went, sounded like a can in a can rattling. replaced that with a hi flow and a magnaflow cat back w/ dual outlets while I was at it. nice idle and nice sound driving. It not a true muscle car sound b/c its not a true muscle car engine. But it has a nice deep sound. The exhaust plus a cold air intake bumped up the highway mileage by about 3 mpg. exhaust about $450, cat about $120

*can in a can* i like that description Frank.if you dont mind i will use that expression next time one of those hondas or nissans go farting by...

the only engine i would put in my car is an LT1.. and i have never seen one with everything (including transmission and ecm) for less than 2000 bucks.. then you get into different fan assemblies.. and other drivetrain issues.. a new rear end because a V8 with an open differential is worthless.. and for someone like myself who has no experience with this big of an install would have to have it professionally done.. all im saying is that it gets expensive.. 3000 bucks was just an estimated guess.. but in my neck of the woods.. it would cost more.. and i dont think it wouldbe worth it.. i'd rather just sell.. and upgrade..

I have to agree with Kaotik. If you look at 99& of the V6 4th Gen engine swap threads you will see that I recommended trading it in for the car they want. People often forget to mention the tons of other parts that would need to be swapped besides the engine. Most importantly the Tranny but if you have a donor car and are desperate to attempt this go at it but otherwise its just plain stupid to think your saving yourself anything.

thats understandable.Im the type of guy who puts old chevy engines in newer cars.Like my own personal car for instance.It has a 70 Chevelle engine with all the trimmings,and it has less than 3000 miles on it.I painted the engine Antique Ford blue,just for shits kicks.It looks way better in my engine compartment than the stock 305 it came with,wich was slave to the computer.no more wires,just beautiful chevy ponies.

And by the way i would place a money bet that my 70' 350 has more HP than a LT1 or WS6,that is non supercharged.

really all depends on what you have.. and if they're running stock.. because i've seen some hopped up ass LT1's in my day.. and they're fast as hell..

And by the way i would place a money bet that my 70' 350 has more HP than a LT1 or WS6,that is non supercharged.
Dollar for dollar, Mod for mod. A LT1 would blow the doors off a Gen 1 SBC 350 and if this wasn't the case explain to me why so many old school Pontiac and chevy cars that where originally equiped with 350's are now sporting a LT1. I'm not putting down the 350 by any means its a awesome block and has a much larger aftermarket than a LT1 and much more possiblty's and I agree non-computerized cars makes them easier to mod but I think your under-estimating the LT1.

I watch it happen to LT and LS owners all the time at thunder valley speedway.All the time you see the old chevelles and monte carlos and novas wax the track with LT's and LS's.I have watched in person people losing money bets over this very topic.not to be-little anybodys car.If i was to put a 6 speed standard behind my motor,a lot of injection fans would be pissin and moanin.

Don't think I am a track virgin and I can tell you first hand from looking at dyno slips and reading GM newsletter's/tech guides, it was a improved design when it was introduced. It is a better design. It does offer more power mod for mod and it is a widely used block and intake system for a reason please don't take offense to this cause I know you know your shit from reading your post's but don't blow smoke up my ass cause your proud of your car, I 'm sure its a sweat ride and it will blow the doors off the average LT1 but you do all the same mods to a LT1 (except Carb obviously) and it would be even faster. It has been proven time and time and time again.

It does not matter how hard you try to fight it or how much you don't want to beleive it. The old saying "there aint not replacement for displacement" and other similar "rules of thumb" are no longer true. Technology will always make more power. Technology will also make more streetable power. Why do you think we have 600 HP LS1's that get driven daily and still get over 20 MPG. Even People like myself that run the Turbo Buicks, mod for mod, a SBC can't compete with my little 231 milk jug (231 cid=1 gallon :icon16: ) It just won't happen. Hell most big blocks can't compete with the tubo Buick mod for mod. I also know for a fact that the big blocks can't even hold a candle to the LS1's. Old school is good for power but, technology gives you all the power of an old carb, SBC setup with daily driven street manners and won't break you wallet evey time you want to drive it.

You are correct.Both can be equally upgraded.But a few facts i will point out,is the fact that mine costs way less to prototype,and is a lot less failure prone in high output applications.And older non-computerized cars have a way more consistent trap time at the end of the track,when all the numbers are added up.If i split my block in two right now this minute,i could replace it exactly like it is for under 1000 bucks,and be right back next to an LT1,blowing its doors off.I run nitromethane boosted(bluish purple gas)fuel.i mix 2 gallons of nitro to every 10 gallons of gas,due to the fact my compression dont like pump gas.It tends to knock.I am not afraid to push mine past the 7,000 rpm mark ive been so warned about.I always end up at home with the same oil pressure i left with.I am sure you could and probably will point out the reasons a LT1 is better than mine,but its not cost of maintaining or durability.

I dont particularly care for thin castings or aluminum parts either.Or all that electronic crap that may seem to help at first,but believe that it bites you in the butt later on down the road.And truthfully doesnt really add all that performance your thinking it does.Im not too concerned with the gas price factor.I wonder what my car would do with a supercharger and a shot of nitrous.I bet it would pull one over on a 231 v-6.Any time it came near.

nitro is EXTREMELY reactive to compression. That is why NHRA funny cars run like 7.7:1 compression and start up under 87 octane pump gas. then switch to nitro when there is enought heat to support the combustion of the nitro. then when the supercharger makes 50=PSI of boost, the effetive compression raito is raised to 33.89:1 compression. causing the nitro to diesel. They don't even have spark plugs left when they leave the line, its just the HARSH reaction the nitro has to the compression that is keeping it running. If you are mixing nitro in your tank for High compression reasons, you are asking for it.

Yeah with my compresion nitrous would indeed split my block in half.

I dont particularly care for thin castings or aluminum parts either.Or all that electronic crap that may seem to help at first,but believe that it bites you in the butt later on down the road.And truthfully doesnt really add all that performance your thinking it does.Im not too concerned with the gas price factor.I wonder what my car would do with a supercharger and a shot of nitrous.I bet it would pull one over on a 231 v-6.Any time it came near.Hotrod, I like you to show me a carb that can look at your map/throttle position and knock count and exhaust oxygen content to deliver a perfect 14.7:1 A/F with 60 fuel pulse changes per second. You show me this and you win this pissing contest. Also the 3.8 Turbo Buick is a awesome design and a engine that is widely praised by many. I think your underestimating the advances GM has made since they discontinued the use of the SBC and the factory hotroded buick 3.8

Yeah with my compresion nitrous would indeed split my block in half.


I was talking about the nitro you add to your fuel to help support you compression. besides, why not just go buy turbo blue 113 octane is perfect for 12.4:1 or torco or something like that. Nitro is a whole different ball game.

And by the way i would place a money bet that my 70' 350 has more HP than a LT1 or WS6,that is non supercharged.


BTW my little 231 made 440 at the wheels.

I use nitro because a friend of mine who used to supply a track here in oklahoma can get it for me at a 5 dollar per gallon price.he adds somthing else to it before he sells it to me,i think he referred to it as *taming it some*.

Ive watched lots of v8 owners get proven stupid by those 231's.I dont like the fact a v-6 is capable of hanging with a v-8,but when you see it for your own eyes,you cant deny it.And to you formulaLT1,i dont know of a carb that does that,but i do know of a carb that costs a lot less,and performs just as good.

I use nitro because a friend of mine who works for a local race track here in OKC can get it for me at a 5 dollar per gallon price.he adds somthing else to it before he sells it to me,i think he referred to it as *taming it some*.
Are you saying you add a highly combustive substance to your car without knowing whats in it?

I am saying he sells and delivers the nitro to one of the racetracks in the state of oklahoma.He sells race fuels,like women sell avon.I trust him to know what he is doing.According to him all i needed was a little help for the pump gas.and it works too.He dillutes it because he says motors on the racetrack dont make it past 30 feature races,without grenadeing.He dillutes it because he knows i will be mad when it explodes.

He has a little toyota pickup he puts it in.He buys it ,and sells it to those of us who want a few gallons here and there

I used to work at the track he delivered to. i used to help maintain the tracks tow trucks and other service vehicles,before they sold the track.I am about to start rebuilding transmissions for a few of the factory stock racers,who have a pretty good season average this year.they keep blowing tranny seals and i think i have found an answer to what ails them.

OK, Next time you see him though. Ask him whats in it I would still like to know only cause I haven't gotten into anything as advance as that but just for research purpose's I would still like to know.

He lebels it by percentage.I think he adds some kind of oil,and somthing else to it.it goes like this*10% 20% 30% all the way up to what dragsters use,wich is like 80 % i think.
If i remember right,a 8:1 compression ratio can have up to 30%,without immediate detramental effects.but a motor with 13:1 ratio can only have up to 10% maybe 15%,before causing immediate damage or failure.

None of wich has to do with exhaust.Im moving on to a different topic discussion,but i will let you know and try my best to come up with a simple applicable chart .