Need CPI??? Screw eBay!

When it comes to getting CPI's, screw eBay I say. People are jacking up the prices to $200+. I saw some peeps selling on eBay for $275!?? I ain't got time for this crap.

So I went surfing around on the web and I found the AC Delco 217-1341 CPI from Delphi for $225.69 ($210.69+$15S&H) AIR delivery!
http://store.getgmparts.com/fj10453.html

And you don't have to wait for days on end to see if your bid wins!

How about you lower your arrogant attitude.

I bought mine off of ebay for US$175 + $10 shipping and it worked great for me.

Don't bash it if you are not using it and drink a tall glass of patience.

I just don't have the time to play games. And I'm not arrogant. More fed -up.

If you have time to play the auction game, then be my guest.

If you are like me and don't have the time, then pony up an additional $50 and get the part without any games

I thought this info would be useful for others since it took me a while to find this low of a price..

Wel,, that is your opinion and you only checked out ebay for a short time.

I had no problems with mine and it was great and if you shop right you can save a bundle.

You should also check out www.gmpartsdirect.com and partszoneonline.com

Here are the prices I found to add to what has already been said in this thread:

gmpartsdirect partszoneonline autozone.com
CPI 17113673 $247.57 $284.71 $364.99
Nut kit 17112705 $ 40.20 $ 46.23 $ na
Gasket 10105939 $ 7.96 $ 9.15 $ 9.49

And BlazerLT, I agree that you "can" save money on eBay. I have saved a lot. But when I don't have the time and I need the part ASAP, then eBay is not the way to go.

Some people have said that gmpartsdirect charges more for S&H than partszoneonline, I don't know because I have never ordered the same part from both

Some people have said that gmpartsdirect charges more for S&H than partszoneonline, I don't know because I have never ordered the same part from both

I don't know about S&H either, but gmpartsdirect is $37 cheaper on a CPI unit. I don't think shipping is going to be that much different (I could be wrong).

Besides, you can get the CPI cheaper on eBay (if you have time) or getgmparts.com ($225 including 2nd day air)

I don't know about S&H either, but gmpartsdirect is $37 cheaper on a CPI unit. I don't think shipping is going to be that much different (I could be wrong).

Besides, you can get the CPI cheaper on eBay (if you have time) or getgmparts.com ($225 including 2nd day air)
hi, i got my cpi for 275.00 new gm delco from ontario truck parts here in new york and shipping was 15$ i called at 5pm one night got the part very next morning. but since i got truck back , it runs bad . seems to stall alot when im sitting and idles crazy wants to move as im holding break .. almost like a quick push.. need to know what tht could be wasnt doing that before part was put in
donna

Here is my one experience with gmpartsdirect.com.

Nov 18, ordered (ordered and paid online with cc)
Nut kit 17112705 $ 40.20. Shipping (ground) $7.07. Handling $0.97.
Total $48.24

Nov 30, order shipped from Salem, NC

Dec 3, projected delivery date to CA from dhl.com tracking

hi, i got my cpi for 275.00 new gm delco from ontario truck parts here in new york and shipping was 15$ i called at 5pm one night got the part very next morning. but since i got truck back , it runs bad . seems to stall alot when im sitting and idles crazy wants to move as im holding break .. almost like a quick push.. need to know what tht could be wasnt doing that before part was put in
donna

Did you install it yourself or have the work done for you?

It sounds like it may be the fuel injection system still.

Did you have the nut kit (2 fuel lines going to the CPI) changed? You may have fuel spraying from cracked lines into the plenum.

Check your fuel pressure with the key on, engine off. Pressure should be 55-61 psi. If it is lower, then check your fuel pump. If the pressure checks fine, then it sounds like the problem is under the plenum.

bla bla bla bly..............
well I did mine about 3 months ago and the total cost was over $500. I had it installed for about 80. labor...this is an expensive repair...I did not plan on and I usu...use used / rebuilt parts...but now ine runs fine and it has returned to about 20mpg...

I am happy... :o)

You used used parts? Not smart at all.

You just paid 500 for an injector that might last for 1000, 10000 or maybe 100,000 miles.

You never know whenthe used part will fail too.

For $500 you could have purchased a brand new nut kit, injector and plenum seal and done it yourself.

hi, i got my cpi for 275.00 new gm delco from ontario truck parts here in new york and shipping was 15$ i called at 5pm one night got the part very next morning. but since i got truck back , it runs bad . seems to stall alot when im sitting and idles crazy wants to move as im holding break .. almost like a quick push.. need to know what tht could be wasnt doing that before part was put in
donna

Your EGR valve needs cleaning with TB cleaner and reinstalled with a new EGR gasket.

Your EGR valve needs cleaning with TB cleaner and reinstalled with a new EGR gasket.

Haynes manual says not to use any solvent as it may damage the membrane in the EGR.

Re cleaning the EGR: I popped mine off (so I could install my gasket with screen :biggrin:) and I noted that there was all kinds of carbon buildup inside the EGR. I tried taking off the torx screw, but it just spins and springs up and down. I used a brush to get off the carbon and chiseled the carbon buildup around the opening. I can't really get at the carbon buildup inside the EGR itself.

TB Cleaner will not harm the inside of an EGR valve. It evaporates in about one minute.

You could have potentially damaged your valve but turning the pintle like that.

Spaying TB cleaner inside of it and letting it dissovle the excess carbon does not hurt it at all. In fact most honest mechanics will do the same.

Most unhonest mechanics will try to convince you to replace it.

I just pulled my EGR to install my new screen gasket :biggrin:

It was all fouled up with carbon. There was no mobility where the torx bit is. I brushed out as much carbon as I could and freed the motion. Also dumped out some chunks of carbon.

The torx head screw just turns. How do I do further disassemble the EGR?

Haynes manual says not to use any solvent on the EGR as the membrane is fragile.

ignore previous message, repetition

stop turning the torx BIT!

IT is not meant to be turned, just push the pintle in and spray cleaner in there and stock telling me what the repair manual says.

I have done this lots of time and it will not hurt it.

Well what the heck is that torx bit in there for if it is not to be turned?!:confused:

I'm using fuel injector cleaner (which is the same stuff as TB cleaner/carb cleaner, all the same compounds, just different packaging).

I'm still waiting for my nut kit I ordered from gmpartsdirect.com which I ordered on Nov. 18...

I was reading that the EGR solenoid can be replaced. How is that accomplished? I cannot seem to disassemble the EGR solenoid from the mount. What is the trick?

Another question: Radiator: any idea how to recondition the oil cooler? I have the radiator out of the car, so I can work on it easily. There are no leaks on the radiator, so I am just trying to flush out all the rusty crap from the coolant tank, and I figured I might as well flush the black tarry crap out of the oil cooler while I was at it. Sea foam?

...and stock telling me what the repair manual says.

You were the one who told me to get the manual...:evillol:

You were the one who told me to get the manual...:evillol:

I know, teheheh, but TB cleaner is not going to hurt it at all. It evaporates in seconds.

Just don't play with the torx bit. All you have to do is gently push the pintl back and spray the cleaner into the valve, turn it over and allow it to drain out.

It will never hurt a thing and will dissolve the carbon out almost immediately.

An EGR gasket with a screen! :grinno:

huh?

huh?

Don't ask me. I don't remember either. :screwy: