96 Standard Geo tracker stalls while idling
shellpurr
11-18-2004, 10:58 AM
Any ideas as to what's happening? I have the clutch in when this happens. Please speak in laymans terms - I'm not all that knowledgable about cars. Thanks.
sierrap615
11-18-2004, 11:56 AM
miles/engine options? anything in the past that could have caused the problem?(IE-service, road hazards, ect) when does it happen? hot/cold, everytime/randomly, city/highway? does lightly pressing the gas help? in need of a tune up?
shellpurr
11-18-2004, 12:02 PM
It recently had the alternator belt (?) replaced, it happens 90% of the time when cold, but has happened when hot. Pressing the gas helps. It does need a service/oil change.
sierrap615
11-18-2004, 12:08 PM
whats your idle RPM?
shellpurr
11-18-2004, 12:10 PM
usually around 1.2 It drops down to nothing when it stalls.
sierrap615
11-18-2004, 12:54 PM
first see if it stalls with the clutch out, trans in neutral at a stop, if it doesn't, check you clutch linkage(i don't know if you have a hydralic system, if you do, check the fluid)
1200 k is way to high, around 700 to 900 is typical(assuming the engine is warm)i would remove the intake air tubing, check the air filter while you are at it, and check inside the throttle body or carbon build-up causing the Idle air control solenoid to stick, you can clean it with a can a carb and choke cleaner, if that doesn't work, take that same can of cleaner and spray it around the intake manifold (anywhere between the throttle body and the engine)if the engine bogs down when you are spraying, you have a vacuum leak. if all that checks out, check fuel pressure
1200 k is way to high, around 700 to 900 is typical(assuming the engine is warm)i would remove the intake air tubing, check the air filter while you are at it, and check inside the throttle body or carbon build-up causing the Idle air control solenoid to stick, you can clean it with a can a carb and choke cleaner, if that doesn't work, take that same can of cleaner and spray it around the intake manifold (anywhere between the throttle body and the engine)if the engine bogs down when you are spraying, you have a vacuum leak. if all that checks out, check fuel pressure
shellpurr
11-19-2004, 10:41 AM
thanks. I have another prob - lucky me huh. there is a squeeling - I was told it was prob the timing belt, then was told if the car isn't driving funny, it's not the belt. So who's right? If the car drives normally, does that mean the timing belt isn't the one squeeling?
sierrap615
11-20-2004, 03:10 AM
it would be hard to confrim or deny the belt without hearing it. keep in mind there are two belts, the serpentine belt(external, driving accessrys) and the timing belt(internal, driving camshaft) to test the serpentine belt, remove it and start the engine, see if the noise goes away, but don't let it run for more then a minute with the belt off, as the belt turns the water pump and alternator. for the timing belt there is no real way to test it without removing the cover, but you could try taking a long flathead screwdriver, put the tip to the timing/valve cover and the handle to your ear and use it like sethascope(SP?). plus your owners manual should have a timing belt change interval. a timing belt beginning to fail may cause a squeeling noise with no drivabitly problems. a failing belt can also "jump" the teeth on the cam or crank gears, causing MASSIVE drivabitly problems(car will allways be failing on its face, no power) when the timing belt does fail, the car will not start/run and on some cars the valves will be damaged. both timing and serpentine belts are items that are best replaced before they fail.
hmmm, i wonder if a failing timing belt could mess up the distributor timing enough to cause a stall at idle????
hmmm, i wonder if a failing timing belt could mess up the distributor timing enough to cause a stall at idle????
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