SOLSTER'S '99 maintenance service

Hi,

I've been pouring through his forum over the last weeks taking in ll the maintenance issues. I think I got most of them, but am geting a little confused on a few items. If you guy wouldn't mind, would you please follow this thread for a while as I go through a full service of the vehicle.

My truck is a '99 Rodeo S 3.2L, Auto, 4x4, 59K miles, So Cal location, mixed freeway/local driving, less than 400 miles a month driving, it does not burn oil (cross them fingers), runs great, only repair was a ABS failure, maintenance so far has been oil changes every 3500 miles (I'm changing that to every 3K now and vigilantly watching the level). I had a trans service at ~50K, I believe just a flush. Replaced engine drive belt at 35K, and air filter at 35K and 59K. Topped off brake fluid recently. I think that's about it!

Main questions to start:

1) Sea Foam in the oil: I see that some say an overnight soak, then change oil, others say put it in for 200-250 miles, then change oil. Any thoughts? Since the oil consumption is not yet an issue, is this still good idea to use? If I should use it, should I add it now, and if so, when should I change the oil? I am currently at exactly 3K on the old oil change. If I use Sea Foam, use the whole can in the oil? Do I just ad it as I would a quart of oil? NOTE how this corresponds to next question...

2) Chervron Techron concentrate: I've seen it recommended to use Chervron Techron concentrate or sea foam to the gas every 3K. Is it one or the other? I've also seen a recommended service "Decarbonization cleaning to take care of carbon residues, etc… - $174" in another thread, is that necessary, or just start now with techron or seafoam (my power seems strong as ever).

Also, I saw a note to add techron before changing the fuel filter, if I add it now, how long should I wait before changing the fuel filter?

3) I know the PCV valve and EGR replacement/cleaning is recommended, should I do those in any particular sequence to the above?

I know that's a lot there to go through, but I sure would appreciate your help, and perhaps this will help others.

Here's what I'm planning:
Change oil and filter (purolator filter - valvoline 5w30)
replace air filter
use chevron techron concentrate
use sea foam (if you recommend it, even though I'm not yet experiencing problems)
replace fuel filter
replace pcv
replace/clean EGR
Flush coolant/radiator
Have brakes inspected, they work fine right now

Then I'd concentrate on the followingL
change axel oil, transfer case oil
the throttle body (what is this????)
wheel bearings/brakes (not a puddle jumper or salt water truck, so I'm hoping to get the 100K on the brakes, will the

bearings hold that long?)

Again, a lot here, I'd appreciate if you could drop in on this thread from time to time, and more importantly, if I could hear back on those 3 particular questions above.

THANKS SO MUCH!!!

SOLSTER :smile:

I would change the oil after using techron cuz the fuel system cleaning could contaminate the oil. Run one fill up with techron then change the oil.

1. well if you are not having problems I don't know if it is really necessary, but at 60k it wouldn't hurt. Pour 1/2 can into the crank case. I do this, and then I pour in a bottle of techron into the gas, Once the tank of gas is used up I change the oil.

2. I do techron every 3k and sea foam every other oil change.

3. If you can replace the PCV and clean out the EGR (and the EGR tube, key one) before you change the oil.

The key thing you need to do is the Techron and clean the EGR (and take a look at the EGR tube too).

wheel bearings, I think most will say it is ok to wait until the brakes are ready to replace. I had mine repacked at 50k at the dealer since it was only 75 bucks (I have a 2wd, so it is a 100 bucks cheaper then 4wd).

Fule filter. If you haven't changed it yet then after you do the techron would be a good idea.

Lastly, rememeber when you chang the oil change it when it is good and hot!

-Ryan

Great responses, thanks, I'm glad I asked!

questions 4 though 6:

4) you've said run a tank of chevron techron before changing oil, should I run on that tank till low fuel light comes on, I recall the advice not to run below a 1/4 tank to avoid sucking up cr*p from the tank, but assume it would need to be close to empty to burn of the chevron techron.

5) I barely drive the truck (work from home), so I can either add seafoam and techron now, and it will take a month of local short trips to go through a tank, OR, I once a month or so drive a 200 mile trip, I could add SF and techron just before that trip, and get it over with quickly. Any advantage to doing it SLOW or FAST???

6)PCV and EGR: I quess, but please confirm, run a tank of SF and techron, then, once tank empties or is close to empty, replace PCV, Fuel Filter, and clean EGR,... IS THAT THE ORDER you'd recommend?

Sounds pretty important to get this order right, I sure appreciate your help!

Thanks again!
SOLSTER

4. I always run the tank down to the light (means I have 4 gallons of gas left).

5. Yup add it before a road trip is the best. That way the engine is good and hot for the cleaning to happen.

6. I think the techron then the fuel filter is a good idea. The PCV and EGR can be done at anytime.

-

I found an interesting note on sea foam which contradicts the usage described earlier in this thread. I don't mean to challenge any ones opinion, but thought it worth posting for discussion. Primarily, it says to add sea foam just before the oil change, warm the engine, but do not drive significant miles as it thins the oil (what I don't know is if this good advice, or some pin head's opinion). Also note it was written for use on motorcycles.

Here it is:
Normal procedure for a motorcycle:
Add 1/3 can to a full tank of gas and ride the he!! out of it.
A second treatment may be necessary - but not usually. Just
before oil change, add 2 or 3 fl oz to the crank case and warm
up the motor. Don't put miles on it in this condition - you've
just thinned out the oil significantly. With the oil thinned
and warmed up, drain it. I've done this for every oil change
on my xj650j maxim and the oil comes out as clear as can be
now - although the first few times it looked terrible with all
the junk that came out with it.
Link to that article
http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache:nNRtaK6_lTgJ:www.totalmotorcycle.co m/seafoamtxt.doc+sea+foam+in+oil+directions&hl=en

Thanks,
SOLSTER

Well, I'm not convinced the previous post here has correct advice. I found another note saying "The next 1/3 of the can goes into the crank case to clean the bottom end. Interestingly though, you needn’t immediately change the oil & filter like other treatments"
link to that:
http://www.bluemoongear.com/JeffSeaFoam.htm

Plus, a great page here for using seafoam:
http://members.nuvox.net/~on.roz/cars/z28/seafoam.html

One of these pages said that if this is the first use of sea foam, you may have to replace O2 sensor and spark plugs (although I think this is if you're putting it in the intake/brake booster, which is NOT something you have suggested, do you do this???). So I may plan my strategy of using sea foam until those are ready for replacement, BUT LET ME know what you think about that!!!

So, Any thoughts?
SOLSTER :confused:

If you want to be safe pour it in the oil, take it for a 15 minute interstate drive and then change the oil.

The fowling of the plugs and O2 could happen if you also plan to wash all the gunk out of the intake.

I was recently at wallyworld and I found a sea foam like product that said something like pour in the oil run engine for 10 minutes and drain.

Hi,

pulled my pcv today, rattles a bit when shaking it, but from what I've read on the forum here, I should replace it as it's at 59K (it's never been replaced/cleaned, was I just lucky???).

I am going to order a pcv and a fuel filter, again from the forum, it seems best to get OEM for both of these items, but I thought I'd ask first, and thougths??? Any thing else I might think of ordering from St. Charles Isuzu when I have them on the phone (I already recieved my air filter from them this week).

thanks,
SOLSTER

Hi,

pulled my pcv today, rattles a bit when shaking it, but from what I've read on the forum here, I should replace it as it's at 59K (it's never been replaced/cleaned, was I just lucky???).

I am going to order a pcv and a fuel filter, again from the forum, it seems best to get OEM for both of these items, but I thought I'd ask first, and thougths??? Any thing else I might think of ordering from St. Charles Isuzu when I have them on the phone (I already recieved my air filter from them this week).

thanks,
SOLSTER


Hi SOLSTER, from my experience with the PCV valve it's best to go with OEM. (Even though the OEM is around $13 compared to an aftermarket product around $3.) I tried a Purolater PCV valve and it didn't fit tightly. Go with OEM. Be sure to inspect the rubber grommet that the PCV valve mounts into. It may need to be replaced also.

And since you're ordering the OEM PCV valve, you might as well order the OEM fuel filter. By the way, check the rubber fuel lines attached to the fuel filter. If they need to be replaced, now would be a good time since the fuel filter is already off.

Good luck
Nick

What wear should I be looking for on the grommet for the PCV valve, and what should I lookf for on the lines going to and from the fuel filter???
Also, can I order those parts (if needed) from St Charles Isuzu??

Thanks Ryan and Nick! Keep an eye on this thread if you don't mind as I'm sure to have a few more questions;-)

PCV valve grommet: This piece should be fine. However, check for cracks or tears in it. Inspect for any signs of deterioration. Make sure there is a good tight seal around the PCV valve when it is inserted. Also, make sure the vacuum hose that connects to the PCV valve isn't clogged, cracked, deteriorated, or leaking.

Fuel lines: Check for deterioration. Check for loose hose clamps. Check for leaks (especially around the hose clamps). Check for cracks or tears. Make sure the rubber lines are not brittle and hardened.

If needed these parts can be ordered from the dealer.

Thanks 96rodeo, that's kinda what I figured, but don't hurt to ask, appreciate your help!

Revised saturday 11.20.04 4:30pm pst

Hi All,

today's question:

flush radiator on a 99 rodeo 3.2L Auto:

how to easily/cleanly/efficiently drain the radiator using the stopcock???

To investigate, I removed the skid plate. Then I loosened the stopcock, found that it drains from the small hole just below the stopcock. Drained a few ounces, then closed it off, and topped it off. I'm on my way to get "radiator flush", distilled water, and antifreeze.

I take it the stopcock does not need to be removed all the way, correct?

Any Ideas on how to make this clean/efficient/easy would be appreciated, but doesn't look to difficult as I'm doing it, but always a good idea to see if anyone has some tips!

Any preferences on a brand for "radiator flush" and antifreeze?

I like amogo2k's method of flush (link below). As it requires the radiator to be drained several times, I'm looking for tips that can make draining using the stopcock as easy as possible. Any ideas would be appreciated!!! Am I missing anything?

radiator flush method (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=264671&highlight=coolant+drain+plug)

Thanks, and happy holidays!
SOLSTER :rofl:

When you do the radiator flush be sure to turn your heating system controls to Hot. This is so that the heater core will be flushed at the same time as the rest of the cooling system.

After refilling the radiator back up with 50/50 mix coolant and distilled water, leave the radiator pressure cap off, then start and run the engine until the themostat heats up and opens. This will allow air to bleed from the system and provide room for additional coolant to be added to the radiator. Be sure to have the heater temperature control in the maximum heat position when refilling the radiator.

Don't forget to add coolant to the recovery tank also.

This info came from both the Chilton's and Haynes manuals.

Let us know how it goes if you do the radiator flush SOLSTER.

Good luck
Nick

thanks rodeo96!

Question (again on a '99 3.2L auto):

Need some math help. How much does the entire coolant system hold, and how much does a cold radiator drain (i can measure that myself).

Here'ss what I'm thinking, I like the flush idea that goes: do a cold drain, add a radiator flush product, run to circulte, let cool, drain when coolled, fill with distilled water, repeat few times approach until coolant sytem contains only distilled water, then cold drain the radiator, refill with a 100% concentration of antifreeze, this then mixes with the distilled water in the rest of the cooling system, hopefully creating a 50-50 mix, which of course should be checked.

So, the math question, if I cold drain the radiator, how much will it take to refill, and how much will at that time be in the rest of the cooling system. Hopefully someone with a manual can calculate this out!

I found these numbers for a '96 3.2L passport, will they translate to a '99 rodeo 3.2L auto?
The Service Manual for the 1996 3.2L V6 states that the coolant capacity is 9.3 qts/ 8.8L for automatic transmission but then prints 8.4L in another section. A typo, but if you stay in that area you'll probably be okay.

THANKS!!!!

I offer this for future readers!

I flushed the radiator 2 days ago, it went well. it is a '99 rodeo S, auto, 4x4, 59K, radiator has never been serviced in anyway.

I did not want to use a flush kit, or a radiator flush product (heard concerns it loosens deposits, and can cause leaks/problems).

I did 6 drains on the radiator (warmed, then cooled the engine in between to circulate the fluid):
1st drain, very dark green color, very little contaminants (original fluid).
filled with about a gallon of distilled water (58 cents at walmart)
2nd - 4th drain, filled with D. Water, warmed, cooled, drained, very dark green each time.
5th fill/drain, finally, the drained fluid was showing dilusion from the distilled water, but still a dark green, just mildly translucent.
6th drain, finally, the fluid was light lime green colored, like a watered down lime drink. Another flush or 2 would have likely gotten it to very near clear, but I had no more bottled distilled water, and figured it was flushed well enough.
Filled it with a gallon of pure 100% prestone, hoping it would mix to a 50-50 mix with the water in the block. added a 50-50 mix to the resevoir.
TESTED the concentration using a Preston AntiFreeze Tester (the kind that draws fluid from the radiator). It tested to a perfect 50-50 mix, SUCESS!!!

The Prestone AF tester came with no instructions, and the pep boys guys did not know how it worked, and no instructions on prestone.com. BUT, I did my own test. started with two seperate/equal quantities of distilled water and AF. The tester pegged to the top of the tester in the 100% AF, and pegged to the bottom with the 100% distilled water. A 50-50 mix should register about half way at the -37F/-34C mark. As I added the water to the AF, the measure did not peg to the top, but declined. When I mixed a perfect 50-50 mix, it was right on the mark at the -37F/-34C mark. As I said above, once I flushed the radiator, and added the gallon of Prestone, drove it for a while, it tested to the -37F/-34C mark. I've tested it a few times since, and it still checks.

The way I did the flush was VERY CLEAN, and lost no fluid to the ground. I think this is a better method than using those flush kits that use a hose, but to each there own. Now I need to drive the 6 gallons I drained to iffy lube for disposal (free service).

Feels good to get that fluid changed after being in there over 5 years!!!
Thanks for all those tips!
SOLSTER :screwy:

Hi all!

Ive been researching the forum on the EGR plumbing maintenance, and have a few questions. I'll probably ask over a few posts, so please keep an eye on this thread, I'd appreciate it.

This picture has a question about the brake booster vaccum?

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/249475brakebooster2.jpg
Original image from VXRaNgEr
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3203

Do you all worry about adding carb cleaner to the brake booster, or the pcv line to the intake?? Obviously the two holes under the EGR valve, and the EGR port in the throttle body are critical to clean, but how about these other two lines?

thanks!!!