bov opinions..(quick kill).. and update

so im buying a bov, i'm most likely getting a hks super sequencal bov. any opinons? its gona cost me about $150 .. any comments.. it should be decient on my car b/c its auto so i wont loss boost inbetween shifts.. so ill only run rich when i let off..

killed a civic, a 96 w/ intake not worth talk about...

car problems are fixed finally, it was a crimped vacume hose, i turned the boost down to 9-11psi, i see 11psi in 3rd, 9 in first, and 2nd flucates between 9-11..

well so far so good, next lstep is to do a comp test and ill take it form there, if every thing goes well, ill do a 255in tank, adj. fuel pressure reg, 8.5mm wires, take off my cat, get a chip, and boost 16psi..i forgot the bov, that going on b4 the comp. test

hope the comp test goes good.

Guess buying a GSX is on hold then?

better idea...diverter vualve...your car is MAF sensor regulated isnt it?

yea gsx is on hold untill funds get higher.. and the maf is regulated so its pushes more fuel when it reads that air is lossed..that sucks..
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That BOV may or may not be able to be made int oa diverter vualve. a diverter vualve vents excess pressure Pre turbo post MAF sensor. that will keep your air fule ratios in check...

Edit:
That is opposed to a simple BOV which vents excess pressure into the atmosphere. whihc will leave air the MAF senced un accounted for in the exaust.

CBFryman is correct if your car uses a MAF use only a diverter valve. Many aftermarket BOVs can be converted as both diverter or blow off and I think the same its true to the HKS sequential.

trust me, dont vent to the atm with a MAF car. I did, for 2 minutes.

LOL sneeze valves are overrated. Espically when you run a big shaft TE-63 turbo.




J/K, small turbochargers and sticks, where you are constantly surging the compressor, is a good thing.

If your car in an automatic, just let it blow off. no need to route it.

YEA I KNOW i dont have a big turbo and im getting the hks ss for 120 its dirt cheap.. but i dont know it will run wierd if i dont re-circulate.. damm decisions..
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http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/BOV.html
this link is an independent comparison of BOVs...mostly stuff you already know, and it is done within a 3000gt context...but I thought I'd post it for whatever reasons.

Also, doesn't HKS sell a recirculating kit for their BOV, you could always get that afterwards if you find you are running too rich. I'll try and find a link...

Edit: I found a link that confirms there is a recirc kit for the HKS SS.
http://www.serioussolutions.com/evo/hks_ssqv.htm this guy got it for an evo, and said it only cost $40. This link is almost OVERLY informative...he is sooo detailed. So perhaps something there will help you or someone else down the road as well.

hey thaks alot its really useful,it doesnt sound ot great on the evo with the re-cir. kit on but ill see how the car runs.. im doing it tho, im also getting a hard pipe made 2" form the compressor to the intercooler, its gona be mild steel and the bov is gona be attached to it, when i do it ill post pics and maybe a vid..
thanks agian
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PLEASE TRUST ME

Running the BOV vented to the atm on a MAF-censored car is an awful thing to do. I bought a BOV knowing that it "might" have a difference in performance. First, I put it in vented, the car ran like shit. The idle was real rough, and it kept almost dying, then everytime u boost, the engine stalls when you let off. I recirculated it after 2 minutes.

Yeah, it might not be as bad on your car, but there WILL be a performance difference, whether you see it or not. Losing time for a cool sound, and yes I think it's badass, is really not worth it. It only hurts ur car in the long run.

I dont know why you guys have a problem with atmosphere venting. I have a MAF car with with a Greddy type-s and i have never had a problem. Doesnt loose boost between shifts, sounds cooler, and has never stalled on me...if you a/f is turned like you say, or if you have some kind of control, you can correct the rich spot between shifts. Actually the only thing it did was help the car shoot flames on occation. But if i could do it again i would deff go with the SSQV.

As posted over and over the fact is that MAF and atm venting BOVs should not mix. Yes in some cars it migt not hurt performance as bad, or you can tune to compensate.


But why do something improper then waste your time trying to correct it? Just so you can hear a louder pssss? :nono:


Do it right from the start and get a recirculating one.

for some reason, the MR2's run them perfectly. the only time you will ever notice is when your road racing and your doing part throttle. then the car would slightly stumble. but street driving you would never notice. my friend Hondachili's MR2 T has a RFL vented to atmosphere and the car drives beautifully. the car originally belong to my boss who went roading racing in Lime Rock, and that is what he said, the only time he felt it hesitate is part throttle there. but when i drive it around town, i couldn't even feel any performance loses. and the MR2 doesn't use a hotwire MAF. it uses a Flapper style air flow meter. i don't know how much that would effect it though.

and the MR2 doesn't use a hotwire MAF. it uses a Flapper style air flow meter. i don't know how much that would effect it though.

thats the case with the probe gt's it uses a flapper style air low meter, inside it their is a flapper that moves around. i also posted this question on probetalk.com, the people running probe gt's over their seem to have no problem with the ssqv, i think im gona put it on if worse comes to worse they have the re-circulation kit that sells for the ssqv, ill get it if it runs that much more shitty..

thanks for the help..
1

PLEASE TRUST ME

Running the BOV vented to the atm on a MAF-censored car is an awful thing to do. I bought a BOV knowing that it "might" have a difference in performance. First, I put it in vented, the car ran like shit. The idle was real rough, and it kept almost dying, then everytime u boost, the engine stalls when you let off. I recirculated it after 2 minutes.

Yeah, it might not be as bad on your car, but there WILL be a performance difference, whether you see it or not. Losing time for a cool sound, and yes I think it's badass, is really not worth it. It only hurts ur car in the long run.

with an automatic car, you don't lose boost every time you shift. The only time the BOV will open is when he lets off the throttle. If anything it would make him go rich. but seeing that he is over the fuel cutout rate to begin with, his injectors are more than likely full static (no pulses, constant spray) so there is no way for his car to make it go anymore rich so. I see your point, It would depend on how quick his computer is to respond to changes in the boost/fuel maps. It would not hurt the car, If anything going rich after boost might be benifical to cool down combustion chambers. Hmm that is a thought, now I am going to have to reburn my chip and try that.

As posted over and over the fact is that MAF and atm venting BOVs should not mix. Yes in some cars it migt not hurt performance as bad, or you can tune to compensate.


But why do something improper then waste your time trying to correct it? Just so you can hear a louder pssss? :nono:


Do it right from the start and get a recirculating one.


It all would depend on how fast the computer can adjust for changes in boost and enigne load. Personally, I think compressor surge is way better sound than a wuss BOV. My turbo on decell sounds like a damn budweiser clydsdale getting ready to rip your head off.

I dont know why you guys have a problem with atmosphere venting. I have a MAF car with with a Greddy type-s and i have never had a problem.

The Type-S is a closed loop recirc bypass valve...of course you wouldn't have any of the problems that venting to the atmosphere potentially could cause...because you aren't

another reason that im getting the hks ssqv is b/c i notice the stock by-pass sticking, when i let off it stay open longer then tit should..im guessing it going it does have over 161k on it i think its time for a new one..
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no one ever said you CANT run a BOV on a MAF, it isnt going to hurt the engine in any way, just run it rich if it can. this hurts performance.
as for liking the sound of compressor surge... it may sound good but i rather hear a "ptschhhhh" than "PTCSHHHHHWAHHH" then 40k miles later you hear no turbo.... plain and simple. the smart hting is to just go ahead and use a diverter valve on modern fule injected cars. it isnt oging to hurt anything, just prevent potential HP and fule loss.

as for my personal likes, i like the sound of a turbo spooling in sync with the engine revs rising and then as it gets to full boost both turbo and engine screaming....

edit:
and then waste gate beigning to open just before shift.... ahhh music to my ears....

yes cbfryman, i love the sound of a nice turbo spooling to full boost, and then the phisshh of a nice bov.. yea running rich will not be the best thing in preformance wise, but isnt running rich safer then running lean, also my car has 161k on it.. so i rather be safe then sorrie and have my car last a little longer.. thanks agian
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I run a Greddy type s and it is recirculated via radiator tubing. I wouldn't think it would matter what kind of fancy BPV or BOV you run just as long as the air that is purged makes it back to the intake tube between the turbo and MAF. Make sure it is angled toward the turbo inlet though.

if it mmakes a difference its not a maf on my car is a vaf (vein air flow meter)..
thanks
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for some reason, the MR2's run them perfectly.
That is not accurate my friend :)

The two biggest causes of poor running conditions in the turbo MR@ is worn ignitions components and aftermarket BOVs.

BOVs are junk for the most part (except the HKS unti that copies the MR2 OEM BPV design).
Spring regulated BOVs that vent to atmosphere are inferior of an air-based recirculating design. They can not ever perform as well.

well running lean will hurt emmisions if you have thoes pesky performance hater tests in your state. running too rich will momentarily make your engine bog down and if run too rich (nearly impossible on OEM fule pumps, fule rails, and injectors) the engine will cut. but you should have to worry about over supplying your enigne to the point it dies.
really it wont matter much, its jsut my reccomendation that a recirculation, aka diverter valve, is used. the PSSST isnt as loud but still there and your enigne will run smoother. if you are relaly woring about your high mileage enigne acceptin FI have it compression tested and upgrade your fule system. and run the engine a little rich all the time and etard your timing 3 deg for ever 100hp you add. this is for maximum safety. but hey, who wants to be 100% safe while driving a car?

well i know its hurting performance, but i mean it doesn't hurt it bad at all. we didn't measure it, but i mean compared to mine. holy shit, it runs like stock. when i had mine vented to atmosphere, i drove it for 15 minutes and i bypassed it back to the intake beacsue i couldn't stand it anymore, it was jerky, parthrottle sucked, and i was running waay to rich. non of these signs were noticable at all on HondaChili's MR2 with a RFL when driven on the street.

thanks for the advice, i had it open atm. vent now for about a week, the only difference i notice is a slight backfireing once in a while.. otherwise feels about the same..i want the car a little quicker.. next thing to go on is a a/f gauge.. then test pipe, then 255in tank, then chip.. then im done..
thanks for the advce btw what happens if the timing is retarded too much?
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you wouldn't need to retard timing because your car is turboed from the factory so it already has a turbo igniton map. you would not need to touch it running your stock turbo. and retarding timing will kill your hp.

i meant advanced my timing.. oppss..
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tat, the symptoms you described have happend to many MR2 owners (myself included). For some reason different MR2s respond differently to BOVs.
I have had both good and bad.

no one ever said you CANT run a BOV on a MAF, it isnt going to hurt the engine in any way, just run it rich if it can. this hurts performance.
as for liking the sound of compressor surge... it may sound good but i rather hear a "ptschhhhh" than "PTCSHHHHHWAHHH" then 40k miles later you hear no turbo.... plain and simple. the smart hting is to just go ahead and use a diverter valve on modern fule injected cars. it isnt oging to hurt anything, just prevent potential HP and fule loss.

as for my personal likes, i like the sound of a turbo spooling in sync with the engine revs rising and then as it gets to full boost both turbo and engine screaming....

edit:
and then waste gate beigning to open just before shift.... ahhh music to my ears....


if you run a bigshaftt turbo, surge won't hurt it, the bearings can take it. They had t3/t4 turbos on the GN's stock with no BOV and they last a long time. Mine was still good at 90k. Also the only time it would cause the car to go rich is when he is off the gas and venting the boost when performance is not needed.

Personal likes, I like to have the boots at max no matter what RPM it is, then the automatic shifts and the boost stays there, 27 PSI through all 4 gears. Am I the only one who has not heard my wastegate open up?