My '96 Sunfire...

...has lots of issues.. let me begin... this is what it looks like:

http://mercury.walagata.com/w/linkin99/more_026.jpg

http://mercury.walagata.com/w/linkin99/more_030.jpg

Problem 1: Ok, down to business. There's a leak coming from it. It's very very minor.. almost nothing though... what would this be... the water pump or Head gasket?.. (or either?)

Problem 2: The power in my car... the light goes bright when I hit the gas. (its not significantly brighter but it goes brighter) and as do the head lights. I have Subs in it and for some reason they stopped working properly... the amp fuse is good and the subs are not blown yet they barely work when im driving (they used to POUND like mad) and when I hit the gas there is no bass coming from them AT ALL.
- What could I get as "power conveters? And what should I hook up to them? More amps?? I have underglow (soon to be inside glow) subs, and the basics.. like headlights etc.

Problem 3: There is a loud clicking sound coming from my engine... its not click all the time.. only sometimes. It just goes "click click cling cling" maybe my water pubp or A/C? I know the A/C isnt working...

If ANYONE and I mean ANYONE can help me on ANY of these problems I will forever be greatful... thank you very much..

- Kyle.

very descriptive, but the wrong descriptive.

Where is the leak coming from? the motor or the radiator? what color is the fluid? if it's antifreeze, open the radiator and check for oil. change the oil and check for water in it as well.

have you upgraded the power wires in your electrical system? how old is your battery? is the Alternator putting out around 14 volts? how big is your amp? the wires to your amp? the electrical system should hold a 1200 watt amp with no problem, my lights don't dim at all and I run more than that (one amp is 1200 watts, the other is 1600 total watts). neons don't use all that much power, not as much as you might think. dont have them any more, but I use to let them run for hours without the car on.

the clicking noise will have to be more localized. Does it go faster with more RPM's? is it steady, but louder when you push on the gas? where on the motor is the noise coming from? get a long screwdriver and place the handle by your ear, put the tip on different parts of the motor and listen. sounds crazy, but it will work to help find the source of the ticking.

Leak is from the ratiator. (Its ratiator fluid, anti-freeze.)

Only thing upgraded "power wise" is just my 600W amp for my 600W subs. Thats the only thing on the amp..

Clicking noise is coming from the bottom of the engine and it does get relatively louder as I hit the gas..

and the battery is about 8-10 months old... its a regular battery, I think I may need a heavy duty one.. ;)

thanks for the reply. further help is appreciated. Ill check the other things tomorrow. :)

I'll let you provide more information but you need to buy and install a 1 farad capacitor on your subs. The amp is drawing more juice than the alternator and battery can provide. The capacitor will keep the subs working and will enable the lights and other accessories to get the proper voltage.

I'll let you provide more information but you need to buy and install a 1 farad capacitor on your subs. The amp is drawing more juice than the alternator and battery can provide. The capacitor will keep the subs working and will enable the lights and other accessories to get the proper voltage.


So I should by something like this?

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14308

Thanks for the imput. :)

a cap is like a bandaid it doesn't really help the situation. the charging system puts out the required juice for the amp, I'm running almost 2800 watts on my stock alternator, it holds, but just barely, and not at high volumes. instead of a cap get a yellowtop battery, in the trunk. works better. upgrade your wires to get the full power of your alternator, also look into the upgraded alternators (160 and 200 amp models) before getting a cap.

the noise, when was the last time you changed the oil? did you notice water in it? I'm thinkin that the leak, if a headgasket, could be leaking into the crankcase and you now have bearing issues, as antifreeze makes a horrible lubricant, it also displaces the oil film your bearings need to survive. by the sound location and how it makes the noise, it may be a rod bearing.

if the leak is only from the radiator, then the noise could still be a bad rod bearing, or even a journal bearing that has spun in it's race. either way, look at the oil closely on the next oil change, if it has water then, you know. if the oil is gritty and has metal flakes in it, then you have something internal wearing fast.

find the leak, where it is coming from exactly, then work from there.

your leak could be a headgasket, which is common, or just about anything else, not too hard to figure out though, just look for liquid. As for the charging problem, if you turn of the headunit, which in turn turns of the amps is the problems still evident. If it is your alternator or the voltage regulator on your alternator is probably toast. This can easily be tested with a multimeter. I do not believe a 600w amp would draw too much on a fully functioning alternator. Although I agree that adding a yellowtop is a nice touch you also must consider that you have two batterys thus you have to wire the yellowtop in the trunk to the front battery positive to positive. This in turn charges the yellowtop off the alternator, which mean that the alternator is charging two batteries, although it may be slightly less strain on the alternator it still has to charge the batteries for the same current loss, thus making a capacitor a more feasible way to go. A cap stores voltage and releases it through more efficient means, making it draw less on the charging system of the vehicle. But I believe a fully functioning alternator will handle a 600w amp, after all thats probably max power meaning its really probably good for 350w or so. A ticking in you engine, If its a 2.2L engine its probably a lifter, 2.4L it could be crank bearing related. Good luck man.

true the alternator would have to charge both batteries, but if he gets an isolator, then his alternator would be switched to the battery needing charged instead of charging both at the same time. yes it reduces alternator to battery output, but a larger output alternator would solve all his problems anyway. Alternators are by far less expensive and easier to install than the second battery setup, since the alternator will last through several batteries anyway, and the install is not custom in any way.

Well, My alternator is 140amp (Maybe 160 im not sure, i forget.) I got it tested today. Its powering at 11.5 with nothing on and 10.5 with everything on. The guy told me he's surprised I could start my car.. lol..

that's your problem then, the alternator is junk. heck, I'm surprised the ABS worked since it's electric powered.