Resin questions.
blubaja
11-13-2004, 08:20 PM
Hey,
I have a few Jimmy Flintstone and other resin company bodies('59 caddy hearse, ssr panel, new t-bird panel, '56 ford sedan delivery, mentranga merc, '71 el camino, pt panel, ford lsr racer, 4 door silverado, gmc topkick). I was wondering if anyone has ever done a resin kit before, and what sort of problems you encountered. I would aslo like to know what brand spray primer I should use for the bodies.
Thanks,
Frank X.
I have a few Jimmy Flintstone and other resin company bodies('59 caddy hearse, ssr panel, new t-bird panel, '56 ford sedan delivery, mentranga merc, '71 el camino, pt panel, ford lsr racer, 4 door silverado, gmc topkick). I was wondering if anyone has ever done a resin kit before, and what sort of problems you encountered. I would aslo like to know what brand spray primer I should use for the bodies.
Thanks,
Frank X.
Matt Guilfoyle
11-14-2004, 09:21 AM
I've worked on quite a few resin kits/transkits.
The most important thing is to clean the parts according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Most, but not all, resin casters use a "mold release" to assist getting the parts out of the mold. For Flintstone items, I'd suggest soaking the parts in a product called Wesley's Bleche-Wite white wall cleaner. This is available at most large "Mart" type stores in the auto department. I use a plastic shoe storage box with a lid for this task. Place the parts in the container and pour in enough Bleche-Wite to completely cover the parts. Make sure you use eye protection and gloves when working with this chemical. Let the parts soak for 12 to 24 hours. Then, pour the fluid back into the jug (you can re-use the Bleche-Wite many times) and then wash the parts in warm (NOT hot!) soapy water, as if you were preapring a plasic kit.
Resin is more brittle than kit plastic, so take care while working it.
After cleaning, I usually block sand the entire piece to even out any molding imperfections. Also, since different resin manufacturer's products vary greatly in quality, I'd suggest doing all your fitting and modifications prior to applying any paint. Pay special attention to the areas where you will install windows. Flintstone resin is particularly thick because of his unique spin-casting system and you'll want to thin some areas with a Dremel.
For painting, here's the real benefit of resin. You can use any type of paint, even lacquers, without it effecting the parts. Unless you have a personal preference for a cheap universal primer, I'd suggest either Duplicolor or Plasticoke. Although you don't need primer to seal the parts from the paint, you will find things that were missed and still have time to fix them.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Take care,
Matt Guilfoyle
The most important thing is to clean the parts according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Most, but not all, resin casters use a "mold release" to assist getting the parts out of the mold. For Flintstone items, I'd suggest soaking the parts in a product called Wesley's Bleche-Wite white wall cleaner. This is available at most large "Mart" type stores in the auto department. I use a plastic shoe storage box with a lid for this task. Place the parts in the container and pour in enough Bleche-Wite to completely cover the parts. Make sure you use eye protection and gloves when working with this chemical. Let the parts soak for 12 to 24 hours. Then, pour the fluid back into the jug (you can re-use the Bleche-Wite many times) and then wash the parts in warm (NOT hot!) soapy water, as if you were preapring a plasic kit.
Resin is more brittle than kit plastic, so take care while working it.
After cleaning, I usually block sand the entire piece to even out any molding imperfections. Also, since different resin manufacturer's products vary greatly in quality, I'd suggest doing all your fitting and modifications prior to applying any paint. Pay special attention to the areas where you will install windows. Flintstone resin is particularly thick because of his unique spin-casting system and you'll want to thin some areas with a Dremel.
For painting, here's the real benefit of resin. You can use any type of paint, even lacquers, without it effecting the parts. Unless you have a personal preference for a cheap universal primer, I'd suggest either Duplicolor or Plasticoke. Although you don't need primer to seal the parts from the paint, you will find things that were missed and still have time to fix them.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Take care,
Matt Guilfoyle
blubaja
11-14-2004, 12:17 PM
Hey,
Thanks Matt!!! This is great help!
Thanks,
Frank X.
Thanks Matt!!! This is great help!
Thanks,
Frank X.
Vric
11-14-2004, 04:03 PM
main problem with resin is fitting, you need to test every part before gluing them. then, you will probably need putty to fill gaps. use Crazy glue or Epoxy.
Also, you have the clean every part, removing extra resin, wash it with soap before painting.
If one part is badly bent, you can give a good shape with heat (a 60W lamp or more do the trick)
Also, you have the clean every part, removing extra resin, wash it with soap before painting.
If one part is badly bent, you can give a good shape with heat (a 60W lamp or more do the trick)
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
