98 blazer problems

A couple of days ago the wife went out and tried to start her blazer. It would start then die. I managed to get it started buy pumping the gas a little and revving it some once it did start. I figured it was the fuel pump or if I was lucky the fuel filter.

Well, I went out this morning and went to move the power seat and it just would barely move, just like the battery was dead. So I put the key in and nothin', just like it was dead. Then the seat started to move like it should and the gauges all came on(fuel pump too), then it all died again, then back on, and off, and on. Most of the guages(including the speedometer were jumpin' around like they were on crack during all of this). Finally, it settled down and I got it started(it still died a couple of times, and I had to pump the fuel some, and rev it to keep it runnin'). Any ides??

Oh, I guess some more info would help. It's got a 115,000 miles, LS that's loaded(power everything), 4x4, and of course it's the 4.3 V-6.

Thanks,

Casey

Sounds to me like you have a bad connection. The '98 may be one of the year's that have bad ignition switches. Do a search of this forum, you'll find plenty of info on it.

the ignition switch, why would the seat be dead(the come back to life, only to die again) before I ever put the key in the ignition? Does the power to the seats run through the ignition switch someway?? I'm really at a lost here. Thanks again,

Casey

Did you check the battery for proper voltage?

suggestion. So, no, I didn't. But it is a new battery(about 2 months old), so that wouldn't be my first idea, but is still well worth checking. They sell "new" bad stuff every day. Thanks.

Casey

Not sure if this is related to your problem, but on my 97 Blazer the wire harness located in the bottom of the seat ( the harness that connects from the lumbar support switch on the side of the driver seat to the lumbar solenoid mounted to the bottom of the seat) shorted out and caused all kinds of electrical problems. The factory installed harness is stretched very tightly over to sharp metal edges of the seat frame. After a while the coating on the wires wares off and the harness will intermittently short out until it finally begins blowing fuses. The harness is controlled by the Aux.Power fuse. There are only four bolts that hold the seat down. Move the seat all the way back and remove the front bolts and then move the seat forward and remove the rear bolts. You can then tip the seat forward to gain access to the harness for a quick inspection.

I'm telling you, second generations Chevy Blazers have TERRIBLE altenators. I've already had to replace mine in my '99 blazer. But first BlazerLT, has the right idea, battery first, connections, from there, starter. Why does everyone look in the difficult parts first? Start with battery, solenoids, altenator, starter, all the charging components.

Yip, battery voltage should be tested.

just wanted to say thanks. If the first incident(of it not starting, then dieing) is not something else, then it was the battery terminals. took both sides loose, cleaned and treated, and tighten them both back down and everything seems to be working. Guess I'll find out in the morning. Thanks again.

Casey

It's been 3 full days since I went over the battery and no trouble since. Again, just wanted to say thanks for the help. But I do still have one question, would a weak battery connection cause the initial problem of it starting then dieing and havin' to pump the gas to keep it runnin'??

I would hazzard a guess to say it was symptomatic. Keeping and Olds Delta 88 C'Cruiser alive against it's will for many years, I experienced the same problem. Start, die, revving the gas seemed to help, but it would just die seconds later - no lights, no nothing. I discovered it was a rotten battery terminal and positive cable when the hood was open and I tried to start it. I had a small spark show. :)

Replacing the acid-rotten cable, cleaning both battery terminals and the remaining, intact negative terminal - and it never bothered me again. So yes, it's entirely possible a bad battery cable would do it. BTW, my power seat rolls back and forward without the key in the ignition... so that pretty much eliminated the first impression I had of wanting to blame your starter switch. I am glad I held my tongue!

It's been 3 full days since I went over the battery and no trouble since. Again, just wanted to say thanks for the help. But I do still have one question, would a weak battery connection cause the initial problem of it starting then dieing and havin' to pump the gas to keep it runnin'??

You should never pump the gas on a fuel injected vehicle.

But the loose connections could have not allowed the alternator to charge the battery properly.