weld/bore cylinder?? possible?? also B17 valvetrain/CTR cams??

I have a B20 with JE 11:1 pistons in it and at 1500mi the wrist pin on #4 walked into the cylinder wall and left 2 big ass grooves, I was wondering if I had to have them overbore it and drop in a sleeve back to 84mm or could they just weld the grooves and then clean up the bore?

Im debating on wether or not to rebuild the B17 or throw the B20 in with the B17s head, etc and have myself a CRVTEC finally, not sure how much the block repairs gonna run though.


also on my B17A head, I got 173k on the engine, runs real good though, but the valve springs are too tired to try and run a new set of CTR cams right?

it would be much safer im sure to bore the cylinder and drop the wall in then to weld a piece of metal in there, cuz if the weld fails then your motor will surely be done the dumps also.

You Can Weld It But Who Ever Welds It Beter Know What He Is Doing I Would Sugest Over Bore And Sleve

Yeah welding it sounds like a bad idea. The welds will always be the weak link in the motor.

You Can Weld It But Who Ever Welds It Beter Know What He Is Doing I Would Sugest Over Bore And Sleve


I wont be welding it, and not some guy in his garage, the guy thats worked in a machine shop for 35+ years, and the weld the weak link. I was taught that a good weld would be stronger than the original material ever was????? and how could a weld fall off? its not just stuck on there, it penetrates the metal and becomes part of it. is the sleeve made out of some weird metal that is difficult to weld? will it not penetrate the sleeve well? or??


and I dont mean weld a peice of metal in there, build the groove back up with the weld, there will only be 2 spots that are about 3 1/2" long by 2-3mm wide that arent standard cylinder wall material in contact with the rings? will the welds wear much faster than the rest of the bore??

well here the deal the cylinder is made out of grey cast iron if you plan on welding it you will have to weld it with ni-rod (nickel rod ) and it isnt as strong as the cast around it and may detach and destroy youre engine and if this guy plans on doing this make sure he has what they call a sand table it will heat the cast up so it can be welded on once it has been . it has to be brought down in heat very slowly aroud 20degrees an hour normal heat up is around 300 degrees if is not done in thes fashion it will crack becuase cast sucks the heat out of the weld causing it to seperate

I'm Sorry I Didnt Answer All The Question Normaly Welds Are Stronger Than The Base Metal But In The Case Of Cast Iron It Is The Absolute Oposite

I'd say ask the guy at the machine shop before you have him do any work on it. His answer (I would assume) would be the best since he'd know his own strengths and weaknesses in what he's capable of. Just my opinion.

yeah, I went to the website and clicked the contact us lnk and started writing him as to what he could do for mwe and I was almost done typing, and I had wrote a good deal already, not sure what I did, maybe hit alt-c or what but the window closed and no way I was gonna type it over again, so Im just gonna call him soon.

and I actually know a guy who works at nichosl boat builders where I live and hes the head of the welding department and he told me all about the ni-rod and heating it up when I wanted him to weld a flange to jmy EM for my turbo, I didnt know the cylinders were the same type of material. if he did heat it up and cool it off properly, what are the properties of the weld as far as wear from friction?

just talked to them and he said the sleeve would be about 60-80 bucks and installation of about 150, but then when they press the sleeve in most likely it will distort the bore of #3 if not all, and they will all have to be oversized a bit and Id need new pistons, I told him I got 700 dollar pistons with only 1300 on them and wanna use them still and he said it might not do much at all they were just warning me and they might just have to rehone #3 a little and I could still use the stock pistons.

if I am gonna most likely need new pistons though, how far can I go with the bore on the stock sleeves before they are too thin/weak?

I think the groove isnt any more than 1mm deep, maybe 1.5, so if I had them punched out to 86-87mm Id have a 2.1L, wouldnt have had to buy the sleeve and pay for install, and I can get a bit lower cr pistons for if I wanna boost later on.

but can you just punch out stock sleeves 2-3mm over and not worry? seems like thats too much removed?

also anyone have input on the valve springs?

Sorry Guys I Had To Work Today Any Way About The Weld I Checked With A Buddy Of Mine ( He Is The Welding Instructor For Licoln Arc Welding School ) He Said That The Ni Rod Could Be Used On The Cyclinder Bore But You Would Have To Find Out What Grade Of Cast It Is There Are 35 Different Types Of Cast Im Not Sure If Honda Would Give This Info To You But If They Do Let Me Know What Type And I Will Let You Know What Type Of Rod To Use

alright, well I am willing to bet the local dealerships, workers there wouldnt know anyways, or theyd tell me what they "think" but not tell me they are unsure. I always get so much BS when I talk to people at dealerships, I guess I should try though, I am probably gonna go with the resleeving option since its so cheap, last place I asked about getting my engine sleeved he told me materials are pretty cheap but labor will be very expensive. was 4 cylinder quote back then but still 840-920 complete isnt as much as he made it sound. and if I cant use my pistons Ill sell the ones I got on ebay and I guess save up for a while more to buy new oversized ones?

does honda have a web site maybe they would help you

Off The Subject But Would You Guys Be Interested In An Old Hot Rod Trick My Father Cooked Up Back In The Sixties It Works Its A Home Made Electrick Turbo

Off The Subject But Would You Guys Be Interested In An Old Hot Rod Trick My Father Cooked Up Back In The Sixties It Works Its A Home Made Electrick Turbo


I was really listening to your information but I just lost all faith in you, those electric turbos are a joke, the one that does work gives you something like 1/2 pound of boost if that and can only run for about 10-15 seconds cuz it taxes the electrical system so bad.

I KNOW I ALLREDY SENT YOU AN E-MAIL ON THIS BUT AS FAR AS THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IT USES A SEPERATE BATTERY PLUS DONT GET ME WRONG BUT IF YOU TURNED OFF THE STEREO WOULDN'T IT FREE UP SOME JUICE if you want to get an idea of what i'm talking about check out the archive under electrick turbo all i,asking is to just read it dont think i'm bull shitin you it does work if i can figure out what is wrong with the dam scanner i would post the diagram

my stereo takes shit for juice, probably has a 40 watt or so internal amp , cant see honda in 92 having much power in the HU. and the extra weight for a voltage regulator and extra battery and wiring would probably defeat any benefit that the electric supercharger gave you.

also I did not get an email from you.

Ok sorry i might have screwed up on the email any way the super charger produces about 5 to 10 psi of boost at 750cfm at least thats what my brother and father said and its made of simple parts it just takes a little fabrication the only reason why i brought this up is i dont have a tuner and i was wondering if it would help a newer fuel injected car im personaly fond of mud trucks i have a 1995 chevy 4x4 with 15 inches of lift on 44 inch tires Plus i have a 1981 buick regal with twin turbo charged 350 small block that runs on propane I dont drive it any more im going to give it to my nephew on his birthday sorry if i afended any one p.s have you figured out what you are going to do with you engine yet .

bore/sleeve and if it distorts bores Ill save up for some lower cr pistons

have you considered a remanufactured short block.