HELP! VTEC doesn't work at all anymore
JustChillin023
11-12-2004, 06:51 PM
My VTEC was set to kick in really early (2300) because someone was playing with the Vtec controller unit. After driving on it a few days, i found out the problem and switched it back to normal rmp (5200). Now, when it kicks into VTEC, there's no power increase at all. There's a slight fizzing sound when VTEC is in, but there's no power output at all from it. I tried unplugging my battery for about 20 minutes and reset the ECU, but that only helped in resetting my radio stations. Please help me with any information you have. Thank you in advance.
ludeguy
11-12-2004, 08:50 PM
sorry i originally wrote from a h22a perspective, and reading your other post i realized you have a 97 lude..so i've re-edited my post. I'm not to familiar with the h22a4's and their vtec configuration but i'm "guessing" they are similar to the 92-96 preludes...
After referring to the helms manual for 92-96, i'm still guessing something to do with the vtec pressure switch, or vtec solenoid.. although based on the schematic I saw i'm leaning more towards the vtec solenoid. Since it is trying to engage i'm guessing the ecu (or controller unit in your case) is not the problem, although i would still check the wiring/continuity for the solenoid and pressure switch.
cheers
After referring to the helms manual for 92-96, i'm still guessing something to do with the vtec pressure switch, or vtec solenoid.. although based on the schematic I saw i'm leaning more towards the vtec solenoid. Since it is trying to engage i'm guessing the ecu (or controller unit in your case) is not the problem, although i would still check the wiring/continuity for the solenoid and pressure switch.
cheers
ludeguy
11-12-2004, 09:58 PM
once again this is from the 92-96 helm's manual (so for a h22a not exactly the h22a4) but you can test the solenoid - by unplugging the connector that goes to it, and with an ohmmeter (if you have one?) you can check the resistance between the pin and ground - you should have 14 - 30 ohms... if you have more or less, your solenoid is pretty much hooped.
if you DO have 14-30 ohms on the vtec solenoid, i'm guessing the filter screen to the vtec solenoid is probably filthy - you're lucky if that is the case - because the filter is a lot cheaper than a new solenoid, and you can prob get away with even just cleaning the filter.
i could see you burning up your solenoid if you have it set that low.. think about it - when set normally your car is only in the vtec range (above 5000 or whateva is normal) for a short time (ie: solenoid opens allows oil pressure to activate vtec), before you change gears and the rpm drops again (solenoid valve closes) operating *normally* the solenoid only has to open for a short period of time. NOW, if you have it set at 2300 or whateva it was set at, everytime you are above that rpm the solenoid is open - and let's face it when you are driving, even without hard acceleration it's easy to be above 2300 rpm wise, so your putting constant use on the solenoid...
this is just the way i see it - so maybe i'm missing something.
report back, also - is your car throwing a code right now? if it's not throwing a code it could be something worse (ie: more mechanical - lobes/hyrdraulic pistons) unfortunatley. - Finally (but perhaps most importantly) you aren't getting any low oil pressure lights or problems are you? perhaps the oil pressure just isn't there to move the hydrualic pistons in the cam lobes.
cheers.
if you DO have 14-30 ohms on the vtec solenoid, i'm guessing the filter screen to the vtec solenoid is probably filthy - you're lucky if that is the case - because the filter is a lot cheaper than a new solenoid, and you can prob get away with even just cleaning the filter.
i could see you burning up your solenoid if you have it set that low.. think about it - when set normally your car is only in the vtec range (above 5000 or whateva is normal) for a short time (ie: solenoid opens allows oil pressure to activate vtec), before you change gears and the rpm drops again (solenoid valve closes) operating *normally* the solenoid only has to open for a short period of time. NOW, if you have it set at 2300 or whateva it was set at, everytime you are above that rpm the solenoid is open - and let's face it when you are driving, even without hard acceleration it's easy to be above 2300 rpm wise, so your putting constant use on the solenoid...
this is just the way i see it - so maybe i'm missing something.
report back, also - is your car throwing a code right now? if it's not throwing a code it could be something worse (ie: more mechanical - lobes/hyrdraulic pistons) unfortunatley. - Finally (but perhaps most importantly) you aren't getting any low oil pressure lights or problems are you? perhaps the oil pressure just isn't there to move the hydrualic pistons in the cam lobes.
cheers.
JustChillin023
11-12-2004, 10:32 PM
Thank you so much ludeguy, I'll be sure to check that tomorrow. what you've said has been extremely helpful, and ill be sure to check back on this post and let you know how it goes. Thanks again
Kevin
Kevin
ludeguy
11-13-2004, 03:55 AM
hey no worries, give me an update and perhaps i can help you further from there.
cheers
cheers
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