replacing control arm? Is it difficult?

Has anyone ever replaced the control arm? Can the average joe replace it? I have access to a hoist so getting to it isn't difficult. But I am wondering if there is anything maybe to do with the springs that would have a lot of pressure on it. But, there's a bushing on there that keeps on falling out. The previous owner brought it to the dealer to have it replaced. I brought it to the dealer once to have it replaced about a year ago and it fell out again. The only thing I can think of is that it is put in there better out of the factory than if you just replace it. The other side has never fallen out. So this time I just want to replace the whole control arm and bushing. But is this something that I can do without having a strut compressor and any other special tools?

And does everyone agree that putting a new control arm would solve my problem of the bushing falling out constantly or is there a better idea? Does everyone think I am wasting my time and money to replace the whole control arm to fix a bushing problem?

I believe I'd replace that control arm if it was me. I've replaced plenty of control arm bushings over the years on several different cars and they have to be pressed in with a_serious_vise or an arbor press. I can't imagine one falling out unless there's a hairline crack at the bore of the bushing in the control arm. Since the Aurora has cast aluminum control arms, this would not be beyond the realm of possibility. They're not hard to replace, just time consuming. Get the factory service manual and when you take it out look at the area around the bushing very closely. I'm betting it's cracked, which would be a pretty dangerous situation if it totally split while driving. Hope this helps.

Is the control arm something that the average person can replace though? I am not sure if the strut or spring goes on top of it. If it does, then I have no way of compressing the spring to get it off. Or does the spring not even get close to it so I just unbolt the old one and put on a new one?

The control arm mounts to the bottom of the steering knuckle while the mcphereson style strut mounts to the top of the knuckle. What you need to watch out for is to not let your joints/axles overextend and put too much stress on them. You would need to disconnect the strut from the steering knuckle prior to remove the knuckle from the control arm, most likely. During this procedure, you need to support the steering knuckle (esp after strut is removed). Now you can remove the knuckle an have at the control arm. Since your not actually taking the strut apart, you probably don't need the spring compressor. When your all done, make sure you replace the ABS connector. This is a good chance to replace any old struts and rotors/brakes while you have it all apart too.

Thanks zimaad. That makes me feel a little more confident I can do the job. The biggest thing I am worried about was taking the strut off and having to worry about all of the force behind it. But as long as it is still compressed when I take it off the control arm, and I don't have to do anything to keep it in the compressed state, then that is great. I'm just affraid, if I have to disconnect the spring and the strut, and I had to put a strut compressor on it, if it came loose while I was working, it would probably blow a hole through the wall, or worse, me.

Even if you did have to put a spring compressor on it, it's not too bad. used one for the first time about 6 months ago and I'm still alive and the windows in my garage are still in tact. It's jst basically some long throw heavy duty clamps that fit around the perimeter of the spring. You use a ratchet to crank it down and loosen it. Remember, after you do this, you'll have to get an alignment done.

That was something else I was wondering also, about the alignment. I can't just mark it really well so I don't need an alignment? On my previous car, I had to take off the strut mount plates, so I just used a paint marker and made a lot of lines on it so when I put the plate back on, I matched up the lines so I didn't throw the alignment off. I wouldn't be able to do something here? But my car has been feeling like it is pulling so it probably is as good an excuse as any to get an alignment done.

The entire front suspension carries the full load of the strut system. There is nothing that isolates the control arm from the full spring-force of the strut/spring system. (This is not like the old days when either the upper or lower control arm was sprung between the frame and the other simply followed.) Put another way, you will need to control the spring load with some sort of compression device as described earlier. Take a wheel off and follow the spring load path. Strut, steering knuckle, lower ball-joint, control arm.

So just use a few C clamps to go around a few rings of the spring on a few sides? Put it inside on the rounded part of the c clamp so it can't just slide off. That's how you do it? But then I need to think of a way to rachet the c clamp.

I wasn't saying to ACTUALLY use C-clamps, but that's the idea of how a compressor works. If you go to AutoZone, you can use their free with a refundable deposit.

Another question I have though, is why I have the spring off, how hard would it be to disconnect the strut and replace the strut mount? Is there a lot of compression behind the strut itself? Or can I just disconnect it semi-easily while I have the spring off? The strut mount is making a small squeak when I turn and while I have the spring off, I might as well replace that.

Well, I had my car up on the hoist and I was looking at it. The strut and spring hook to the top of the wheel, and the control arm hooks to the bottom of the wheel. I don't think I would even need the spring compressor. It really doesn't look that bad.