Can Anyone Help?

Ok, I just installed a new Stage I Clutch Masters Clutch and Aluminum Flywheel. I put everything back together, bleeded the clutch and started the car up. Everything was going fine except when i pushed the clutch in and tryed to get it into gear it wont go and it started to grind. Can anyone help guess what it could be or has anyone else had this problem after installing a new clutch. Any guesses will help, thanks.

Probbaly not bled properly. At least thats what I would hope it is, the other option is the step height is off. Did you verify that the flywheels step height is correct? I dont remember what CM clutches need. If the FW is also made by them though you can probably bet its ok. Which brings me back to bleeding. Avoid adjusting the clutch pedal rod as long as you can. when bleeding make sure that the car is jacked pu equally on both sides, roughly. Jacking up only one side makes it impossble to get all the air out (ask me how I know). Make sure you are doing it properly. Try that, and let us know what happens.

The car was on the lift and we used blead it for about 20 mins and then we used the vacum bleeder we made sure there was no air in the system do u have any other guesses, my teacher was guesssing that mabye clutch masters gave me the wrong pressure plate but i checked the numbers on it and it matched the one on the internet so i dought its that :confused:

Has anyone else ever had any problems with clutch master or is it just me? I still havent got my car working and this is the 3rd time im going to be taking it back out :mad: i blead it properly and the piston pushes the fork alll the way so theres something wrong with the clutch kit. I took it back to the store i brought it from and they said that theres this magic switch next to the clutch pedal that should fix your problem but it still dont work so im just gonna put a stock one in

I called Clutch Masters again and they were sayin that their product is 100% correct and that on rare occasions they have to shave the ball that the fork sits on to the throwbearing :screwy: i dunno if im gonna be able to get my money back but there is no way in hell that the pressure plate is gonna release i guess that clutch masters is claiming that they make no mistakes but theres no way that clutch kit is gonna work i would recomend if your gonna get an aftermarket clutch kit stay away from Clutch Masters

If anything, shaving that ball, would set the shift fork farther away from the clutch, intern setting the throw out bearing farther away. This would be a solution if the clutch wasn't engaging. Whenever I bleed a clutch, I have to pump the pedal until my leg just about falls off. Then, to avoid grinding, I try putting it in a higher gear, like 4th. I've heard of people having to install a washer behind that "ball" in the bell housing, so the fork is slightly closer to the clutch. Did you measure and compare the old and new clutch??

Yeah, you would never shave the ball stud, you would "shim" the ballstud. Add a washer behind it as mentioned above. Of course it means dropping the tranny again though ;) Of course if the problem is the flywheel step height, shimming the stud may not help. But again, assuming you bought both from CM and they set it to the right height for thier clutch, that should be a problem. I always verify myself for this reason. ;)

EDIT> I dont see where it states what car you have. If this is a 1g, especially an early 1g, it is very common for the pedal assmebly to be worn out. I believe www.taboospeedshop.com has some good info on this that will save me some typing. :)

instead of just bleading the clutch by pushing the clutch in, push the slave cylinder bar in with your hand while someone else loosens the nut to release the air. my friend put a new clutch in his car and it wouldnt go into gear so he pushed in that bar with his hand a couple of times and it works now