MAF question

hey i was wondering if anyone is using a gm mafs and a maft setup.....

alright dumb question!!! found out a little late sorry.. but now i am wondering what people have for guages..... a/f ration, exhaust temp... some input would be cool

what are you planning on doing, and i'll tell you what gauges you will need.

i'm guessing you have a turbo car. I have not seen any reason yet to use any gauges in an N/A car unless you are spraying.

Boost gauge is good for all turbo cars, cause the factory one just is not accurate.

A/F gauge, i would recommend not even wasting your money on one of these unless you have purchased a wideband. They do you no good on a narrow band car. You cannot use it to tune on high throttle because narrowband just tells you that you are running extremely rich as its translated onto the A/F gauge, and if you have a fuel controller and you try to lean it out using an A/F gauge without a wideband, not a good idea :eek: . If you are using a fuel controller and are tuning low throttle for upgraded injectors, just use this simple formula to tune ((dont forget to hit the percent key on your calculator) 100% - (ECU injector size/upgraded injector size)).

As far as EGT gauges go, get one if your converting an N/A to a TT or if you are upgraded fuel or turbos on a TT car.

Those about cover the 3 main gauges that are useful to the car, now, if you want to switch out the middle 3 gauges with replacement aftermarket ones, those look cool too.

i am getting an ls6 maf upgrade and i have to tune out the a/f using a maft....but i wont know whether i am running rich or lean.....from what i understand u can just tune your mixture not read it with the maft... that is why i got into the guage question

If you are still on the stock fuel system just 0 out the MAFt and it will work just like the stock one but will flow a lot better. You dont have to do any correction on stock injectors.

How much is MAFT and where can one get one, didn't see them on any of my usuall sites.

i think horsepowerfreaks has them, and they are around 200.

Damn, they sell 3SX strut bars for less than 3SX!
Getting the Z06 MAF seems realy expensive, is it realy worth the 300 something you gotta spend to get it working?

first yes it is worth it because everywhere that i have read it will take almost .5 of ur quarter mile... and every little bit helps... second you can buy the whole kit off of http://www.driven-performance.com/display/206..... or if u just want to buy it all seperatly u can go to http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/Dynamic/index.asp?CartId=6150528BEX-EVEREST-WR151

You don't need to spend 300 to get it working, just pay the price, but I do remember it being over 200, I'll go check...

If anyone is interested, I found the whole kit on ikonone's sponsor's website
http://www.driven-performance.com/display/206
the ls6 MAF, MAFT, and 9inch K&N filter for $390.

I couldn't find it for $200, but I didn't look very long. The advantage is the MAF is in the low 90smm, while our stock is like 83mm or something, so it's larger, allows more airflow, and then the Translator allows you to tune for you injectors and a few other variables.
I'm going to be upgrading to it as well sometime next year.

ah, you beat me too it.
And Thourun, as far as the 3sx strut bar, if you are considering getting one, get a cusco off ebay for 50-75, you wont notice a difference other than color.

what about something like a data logger or such to read out the a/f since the guages are useless... cause i understand all u have to do is zero it out if u have stock but i am upgrading injectors and other things over winter.... and i cant find a data logger for a 95 only 91 and 92

Wait so you can tune your fuel delivery with just the MAFT? I'm shure you need some sort of way to find how rich your rining right? And I assume you need bigger injectors to get the .5 off you ET.

from what i have read... so i'm not sure... with just the ls6 maf and the maft u can take .5 of ur quarter....i'm going to also do injectors this winter so idk but i do know that u can ajust all of it from the maft...

but is that for turbo only?

The MAFt will work on both NA and TT, we use the same MAF.

The .5 off your 1/4mile was the difference between a bone stock car and then that same car after putting the MAFt and an ls6 MAF in it. Dont expect to be taking .5 off your 1/4 mile if your already in 12's or better.

so if i am in the 12 is their any advantage to doing this?

Most deffinatly, Im just saying dont expect to take .5 sec off your 1/4 mile time.

Wow thats alot for just in intake mod, I didn't know it was THAT restrictive. Seems wierd that more people don't do it.

lots of eclipse and talon owners do it that is how i origanally found out....about it...my buddy has a 95 eclipse gsx with a 1st gen motor and he runs 10.9 and he said it would help him alot so i started investigating.

Thing is...it isn't just an intake, it is a filter, a mas, and a type of piggyback AFC.

the best way to tune a car is a wideband O2 set up which is around 300-500 depending on what you get. EGT gauges and dataloggers can work to a certain extent and are feasible. Basically, you lean out your fuel while monitoring the EGT gauge make sure you aren't running too hot, and you just keep leaning it out until you see knock appear on your datalogger, then richen it back up so you dont see it anymore, and your good. Thats how some people do it.

you will not gain .5 in your quarter mile from the ls6. Just because somebody did have that, you probably won't. Coming from somebody that has it, it won't provide that much gain. There is a slightly noticeable increase, but i seriously doubt that much.

I still say no MAF is the way to go, hell I havent even had a filter on my car this year, just open turbos. But then again, my car is kinda "rigged".

How does this no MAF setup work?

I have the AEM EMS, one of the things it can do is base the amount of fuel on the engine load(presure in the manifold) and the RPM of the engine instead of basing it on the amount of air being drawn into the engine. So no MAF needed.

Wow thats realy cool, although its expensive but if you have the EMS might as well. So the EMS is the way to go when it comes to fuel management? I know there are a few other systems but it seems to be the best/most expensive.

I wouldnt say most expencive, it turned out to the cheepest for me, but I got it for a grand plus 200 for sensors, normally you would be around 1600 for that stuff. So lets add up what it would cost if I went with the cheepest piggybacks.

Data logger - 250
MAFt setup - 390
Fuel and Timing control - Greddy Emanage - 380
Total of - 1020 for piggy backs

The EMS is around 1600 for the whole setup, and I get to sell my stock ECU for 300. I dont have to buy a boost controler because I can control it with the EMS if I want, and I have every control Ill ever need for my engine at my disposal.

The choice was easy for me, it was cheeper and better, I ended up spending around 900 after selling my ECU.

now what if u have a non turbo'd car remember.... the no filter ems isn't the way to go... and that is what i have an sl......now if u have a vr4 an ems will be the way cause u have the turbo's to run the air threw!

Um, no filter is considered a huge No No. Turbo or not. I just kept melting my PCV intake so I said screw it, and I didnt have my pipe bender yet so I could not make my own intake.

sorry i'm just going off of what i have heard from everyone i have talked to... this is a BONE STOCK sl that the conversion was done on....they have dyno'd it at .5 off of the quarter mile....not a vr4 but an sl....idk cause i dont have it....just going by what i have thats what it does.....

The .5 difference was a MAFt swap on a VR4, not an SL.