My System Thumps, but.....

Okay a few months back I went to CarToys to get a Audio System and Alarm installed into my 89 Civic DX. They sold and installed the following items:

1 = Pioneer DEH-P760MP (CD/MP3/WMA FM/AM Tuner, TV, DVD, XM ready)

2 = Infinity 6002i (6"1/2" 2-Way Speakers)
2 = Infinity 6.5 (6" Speakers)

2 = MTX Thunder 7500 (10" Subwoofers, 400watts)

1 = JBL BP1200.1 (1200watt amp)
1 = Alpine MRP-F240 (360watt amp)

1 = Audiovox Prestige APS-25CH Security System

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The way they wired my Subs is really bothering me. My Subs are hooked up to the JBL BP1200.1 Amp. But instead of coming out of both speaker outputs from the amp they have both subs only hooked up to one speaker output on the amp. My question is wont I get more power if each sub is hooked up individualy to its own speaker out put from the amp? Cause I know 600Watts can thump way more harder or if both subs were pushin 400watts a piece, then 800watts I should at least be feeling it in my throat when I sit in the back seat.

let me know. If i've confused ya I can take a pic of the Box with the amp on it, I took it out my trunk today to save on Gas for the next 8 weeks, freakin box weighs 100lbs!!!

the box shouldnt effect the gas mileage, also they probally hooked it up to just 1 channel cause if they hooked it up 2 both or bridged it, it might have been too much power for the subs and in the long run destroy them

The 1200.1 is a mono amp, it only has 1 set of outputs. You also get the most power by wiring your speakers in parallel.

parallel would be a 1x2 setup right? 1 in 2 outputs?

Go here http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html#3dvcsp and read up

The 1200.1 is a mono amp, it only has 1 set of outputs. You also get the most power by wiring your speakers in parallel.

Correct about the MONO amp but the 1200.1 has 2 sets of out puts and bridged internal. they do this for ease of hooking up speaker wires.

oh really, didn't know about that

oh really, didn't know about that

No biggie, alot of the new amps are doing that!! :smokin: :smokin:

whoa guys thanks. I have never ever seen some subs push that far out!!!! I used a test song and those subs had to be kicking out by almost 2 inches!!!!!

Now its definetly time to get the dynamat for the trunk.

whoa guys thanks. I have never ever seen some subs push that far out!!!! I used a test song and those subs had to be kicking out by almost 2 inches!!!!!

Now its definetly time to get the dynamat for the trunk.

JUST BECAREFUL with that amp!!! turn you gains down!! Those 400 watt subs will be nothing with that amp! that AMP is a true 1200 watts+. Depending on your car voltage.

You've arleady said that the subs are being pushed out farteher than you've seen! Next comes no subs unless you are careful.

I have a web site that give you a great how-to to set your gains. If you want it or anybody else let me know!

JUST BECAREFUL with that amp!!! turn you gains down!! Those 400 watt subs will be nothing with that amp! that AMP is a true 1200 watts+. Depending on your car voltage.

You've arleady said that the subs are being pushed out farteher than you've seen! Next comes no subs unless you are careful.

I have a web site that give you a great how-to to set your gains. If you want it or anybody else let me know!

hook me up with the link, GAINS, BASS BOOST and THRESHOLD, im not worried about the interior speakers,

don't turn on the bass boost, that's just added distortion.

hook me up with the link, GAINS, BASS BOOST and THRESHOLD, im not worried about the interior speakers,


I'll have it here today! Yea disable your bass boost when setting your amp and also remember to "ZERO" your bass on your head unit when setting your gains.

I'll have it here today! Yea disable your bass boost when setting your amp and also remember to "ZERO" your bass on your head unit when setting your gains.

I have yet to find the bass settings for the bass to the subwoofers. Well I think I know where it is at, I will have to do all this real soon cause now my alternator is seeming a day short from going bad :(

I have yet to find the bass settings for the bass to the subwoofers. Well I think I know where it is at, I will have to do all this real soon cause now my alternator is seeming a day short from going bad :(

Here is the link www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/index.html#

You may have to cut and paste, but it will bring you to a page of JL down loads look for GAIN tutorial, it's great.

Look for and audio button on your deck that toggels thru your trebble/mid bass/bass and set the bass to zero (unless it is an eclipse then zero ='s +15).

if you killing your ALT. then you will probally need to either get a cap or an upgraded ALT.

Don't listen to people who say get a new batt. it will help for a little but you will be in the same boat that you are right now!!


Hope this help's

Chuck

Here is the link www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/index.html#

You may have to cut and paste, but it will bring you to a page of JL down loads look for GAIN tutorial, it's great.

Look for and audio button on your deck that toggels thru your trebble/mid bass/bass and set the bass to zero (unless it is an eclipse then zero ='s +15).

if you killing your ALT. then you will probally need to either get a cap or an upgraded ALT.

Don't listen to people who say get a new batt. it will help for a little but you will be in the same boat that you are right now!!


Hope this help's

Chuck

Wow sweet tutorial man! I'll go to y mechanic on Satuday and see if I can borrow his meter so I can get my system adjusted right.

I have been thinking about getting 1 or two yellow batteries, my current battery only has like 75 reserve max power, and as we know the bass pulls from the batteries reserve power,

so I think im leaning towards, replacing the current battery with a yellowtop battery and relocating it to the trunk and buying a second yellow top battery then also purchase a dual alternator to charge both batteries,

how does that sound?

your system doesnt drain enough power to constitute a second battery. I'd go with the yellow top and a HO alt. www.alterstart.com check that place out for alts. Your amp is a Class D too, so it's pretty efficient too.

your system doesnt drain enough power to constitute a second battery. I'd go with the yellow top and a HO alt. www.alterstart.com check that place out for alts. Your amp is a Class D too, so it's pretty efficient too.
2nd that but would go for a red cell.

your system doesnt drain enough power to constitute a second battery. I'd go with the yellow top and a HO alt. www.alterstart.com check that place out for alts. Your amp is a Class D too, so it's pretty efficient too.


thanks for the link but it led me to a seach engine? So both of my amps are class D?


2nd that but would go for a red cell.

Why a red cell? The Yellow Cells have more reserve power.

woops, wrong link lol www.4alterstart.com

Yah i would stick with the yellow.

Wow sweet tutorial man! I'll go to y mechanic on Satuday and see if I can borrow his meter so I can get my system adjusted right.

I have been thinking about getting 1 or two yellow batteries, my current battery only has like 75 reserve max power, and as we know the bass pulls from the batteries reserve power,

so I think im leaning towards, replacing the current battery with a yellowtop battery and relocating it to the trunk and buying a second yellow top battery then also purchase a dual alternator to charge both batteries,

how does that sound?

O.K. here is the deal with the great yellow/blue/red top batteries! I'm not busting on them but the ONLY reason (in my opioion) to have any of those batteries is if and only if you are going to be playing your system on just that, the batteries! They are a deep cell and they will last a long time. Beyond that WHY?? cause it looks cool? It does help a little but do you think that you can tell the difference, Probally not unless you are playing it without the car started.

Save yourself the money and go to Wal-Mart and get one of there 3 year free replacement batteries $60 and for the next 3 years, (10 total years pro-rated) you can get your batt. replaced.

And go with the HO ALT. and for get the batteries more batteries ='s more pull on your ALT.

Chuck

reason to go with a sealed optima, so you can throw the badboy in the trunk. Un-clutters the engine bay and helps out weight distribution too. If you read his post up top he wants to relocate to the trunk. I don't know if the batteries from Wal-Mart that you are talking about are dry cell or not, but you can't go wrong with an Optima.

^^^^^^ I kinda agree with you, does it matter if it is wet or dry cell for a battery re-location? Maybe with an older batt. where you had to check with the water and make sure that the lead plates were covered.

I maybe wrong but even if you do relocate to the trunk (which i am seriously thinking about doing) and if you need to it's not that hard to vent? Also Alot of people have relocated to there trunk without venting.

Weight distrobution? Think about it, if you are worried about weight distro. then why are we even talking about putting a system in the trunk, if that is the logic then i think you would want the batt. in the engine bay to counter act the weight of the subs in the trunk?

Either way people will have their opinion on evreything do what you want, if you want the red/yellow/blue top batt. then get it.

All said and done when your ALT is puting out 12-14+ (depending on your alt and if you have a high output ALt) volts does it matter what batt. you have??? Your batt. makes no difference at that point.

$60 bucks or $100+ Your choice

throwing a system back there would even it out even more although it's added weight too. I don't know the exact numbers or ratio, but I'm willing to guess somewhere in the region of a 60/40 bias to the front.

I wouldn't take the risk of mounting a wet cell in the trunk and not vent it somehow. You are pretty much asking to inhale harmful fumes. I guess you would have less to worry about in a coupe or sedan than a hatch, but still I wouldn't take the risk.

O.K. we both have our opinion's on this and we could go on for days and days about why and how, i wouldn't spend the money on a Optima batt. that a Wal-Mart batt. will do just the same (unless you are going to be running your system off just the batt. then i would go with a Optima batt.) Enerything i have said is my opinion if you have the money to spend then do it.

When you talk about weight distro. does that matter in a non race car?

Okay at the moment I have changed my mind about relocating the battery to the trunk. All I have right now is $500 to play with

I just spent $143.36 the following parts:

Front Oil Seal, Water Pump, Air Conditioner Compressor Belt, Power Steering Belt, Alternator Belt, Timing Belt, Spark Plug Wires.

Now that leaves me with $356.64 to play with, My Mechanic is gonna charge me $173.00 to put these parts on the car, I could save $23.00 and do the spark plug wires myself. so that now leaves me with $

------------------------------------------------------
$500.00 - Total Budget
$143.36 - Parts That were needed before power issue
------------------------------------------------------
$356.64 - After parts were bought
------------------------------------------------------
$023.00 - Install Spark Plugs Wires
$150.00 - Install All Other Parts Listed
------------------------------------------------------
$356.64 - Remaining Balance
$173.00 - Parts Install
------------------------------------------------------
$183.64 - Remaining Overall Balance
$023.00 - Subtract if I install plugs myself
------------------------------------------------------
$206.64 - Left over balance if I install plugs myself, now see im left over with this much for a battery.

I'm gonna wait on the moving the battery to the trunk.

that is more than enough to relocate your battery to the trunk. All you need is the battery, battery box ($10 at wal-mart), about 15-20 feet of 4 gauge wire, distribution block, battery terminals, and the necessary connectors (o-rings, spades etc.) I think that covers it. More than feasible with $200 unless that is all you have in your pocket.

yeah $200 is all I have in my pocket until I finish school. I'll go to some local stores to see if I can find a banging deal on a Optima Battery. Oreilly has a RedTop for $115 and a Yellowtop for $160 whatever I gave left over after the battery im gonna try and use to get some new tires even if I dont get the tires mounted.

O.K. we both have our opinion's on this and we could go on for days and days about why and how, i wouldn't spend the money on a Optima batt. that a Wal-Mart batt. will do just the same (unless you are going to be running your system off just the batt. then i would go with a Optima batt.) Enerything i have said is my opinion if you have the money to spend then do it.

When you talk about weight distro. does that matter in a non race car?
I don't want to get into this too much but I just have to add something. 1st, you don't have to only buy an Optima battery. There are plenty of other dry cell batteries out on the market that are just as good. 2nd, the biggest advantage of dry cell is amperage. Average amperage of wet cells only go to about 600 while dry cell can easily double that. Amperage is what you need to benefit a stereo, not just voltage. Also, when using a higher rated altinator(say from 100 amps to 195) you can be prone to over charging. Wet cells sulfate(gas out) while dry cells do not. That's the number one reason to using dry cells when relocating to the trunk. NEVER USE A WET CELL UNVENTED IN A TRUNK. The fumes can be extremely dangerous.

Lastly, Walmart batteries just won't hold up to the kind of stereos I put out of my shop. They usually fail within about 6months and worse, usually cause electrical problems in the car and car's sound system since the altinator has to work harder. It leads to dangerous voltage spikes. If I had to choose a wet cell, I'd pick the highest rater Interstate battery I could find that would fit the car.

You now, it's so funny. People can not believe how awsome my systems sound because they seem so simple. The thing of it is that they don't pay attention to the details I took to do the proper install. All things like the proper wire, RCA routings, box material, and car batteries along with others, play a strong role into having an awsome system. :2cents:

Interstate Battery ya say. Hmmmm that has been my alternative option, today im going window shopping for batteries, it sucks that Honda's have these damn small ass batteries.

yeah $200 is all I have in my pocket until I finish school. I'll go to some local stores to see if I can find a banging deal on a Optima Battery. Oreilly has a RedTop for $115 and a Yellowtop for $160 whatever I gave left over after the battery im gonna try and use to get some new tires even if I dont get the tires mounted.
the blue tops are the exact same as the the yellow top just with bigger posts or something like that. They are a little cheaper than the yellow top. And Costco sells them for cheap.

------------------------------------------------------
$500.00 - Total Budget
$143.36 - Parts That were needed before power issue
------------------------------------------------------
$356.64 - After parts were bought
------------------------------------------------------
$023.00 - Install Spark Plugs Wires
$150.00 - Install All Other Parts Listed
------------------------------------------------------
$356.64 - Remaining Balance
$173.00 - Parts Install
------------------------------------------------------
$183.64 - Remaining Overall Balance
$023.00 - Subtract if I install plugs myself
------------------------------------------------------
$206.64 - Left over balance if I install plugs myself, now see im left over with this much for a battery.

I'm gonna wait on the moving the battery to the trunk.

you have 173.00 of parts install in that list 2 times, o I think you end up with more than you think.

and for 23 bucks do the plug wires yourself, I mean it will take you 2 minutes at the absolute most. Id personally install the alt/PS/AC belts as well cuz if the wires are 23 to install it must be alot for those 3 belts since its like 50 times more work/time involved. but its still real easy.


also I dont know if this would help you or not but in my mustang my system dimmed my lights a little bit, (1200watt without class D efficiency) and I just upped the gauge of wire that took the juice from tha alternator and upgraded the batteries ground to the frame, and it helped a little bit, only dimmed on extreme bass lines.

im installing the spark plug wires myself tomorrow, sorry leaving major work for my mechanic to do, when it comes to major stuff like at kleast if something happens I have someone to go bitch at ya know, whereas if I did it myself im stuck out.

I've got $200 roughly to spend, I met a guy a AutoZone today, it was kinda funny we both have the same exact cars and sound system setup.

I checked out his setup and was able to pickup on ideas, abnd im going to get those implemented soon.

He is using a Optima RedTop Battery, running a 2Gauge wire to his amps and im only running 4gauge, go figure Car Toys installed the shit.

He has a Optima YellowTop in the trunk to run the big accessories like neon lights, hydros and other stuff. He has a pretty cool battery isolator thats using a stock alternator, oh yeah he mentioned to upgrade the big three wires

1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

buy doing that will

1) Reduced dimming and smaller voltage drops
2) More stable voltage and better current flow
3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system

Now before I buy my battery I need to purchase a Cold Air Intake, so I can make more room for the battery. *sigh* time to go design more websites from some cash again :(

have you checked out those belts though? seriously it isnt major work at all, isnt even really minor work. its better off you tryin git and seeing how easy it is. when I get a new belt I keep the old one in the car, sucks when the alternator belt busts and your stuck on the side of the road cuz nothing charged your battery, only happened to me once on my bug but ever since then ive been staying on the safe side, AC and PS arent necessary so even if they broke oh well for the time being but if the alternator belt breaks and your still scared to do it how much is it gonna cost the mechanic to come out and put the old one back on? and think of how much you could save now.

didnt think of the engine->chassis ground upgrade, but sounds like a good idea as well.

Just an update guys.

I've done the bug3 wire upgrade, installed the Optima RedTop Battery, should have gotten a Yellotop I know, today I also purchased a 135AMP Alternator from alterstart in Dallas, it's a brand new alternator thats been Computer Tested and Approved, they say even though its a 135AMP it has the power of a 150AMP, we'll see when I get this puppy popped in wont we!