91 3.3 voager van
Ellaray
11-08-2004, 06:23 PM
I really need help on putting the serpenten belt back on. when I bought the van only got the part in the box and there is no map on the vechical. simple directions would really help. Thank in advance for your time.
nipsirc
11-08-2004, 07:48 PM
Engine Knowledge
This guide is intended to provide you with a basic understanding of how to replace the drive belts on a common, modern vehicle; not to provide in-depth knowledge of engine systems. It will assume that you are familiar with the basic components of an engine such as the water pump, alternator, engine block, power steering pump, crankshaft, pullies, idlers, etc. It may be necessary to lift the front of the vehicle and in order to gain access to the belts. Use extreme caution to ensure your car or truck is properly supported at all times. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Drive Belts vs. Serpentine Belts
There are two types of belts: Drive Belts (sometimes called V-Belts) and Serpentine Belts (sometimes called Multi-V Belts). A single serpentine belt will typically drive all the various accessories on the engine, while a drive belt will usually only drive one or two. Most vehicles that use drive belts have more than one belt. Occasionally, vehicles equipped with serpentine belts will have a seperate belt which runs the air conditioning compressor alone. Regardless of what type of belt your vehicle uses, be sure to check them often and replace them if they are worn. Belts need to be replaced when the inside of the belt is badly cracked, glazed, frayed, or when the rubber begins to harden.
Replacing Belts
Regardless of whether you are replacing a drive belt or a serpentine belt, the idea is the same; gain access to the belt, loosen the tension off the belt, remove the belt, and reinstall in the reverse order. This sometimes involves the removal of radiator fans, shrouds, and other belts (which may be in the way). Start by disconnecting the battery to prevent nay electrical shocks. Next, remove any components which will prevent the belt from being removed. Have a good look to be sure you have the necessary space to remove the old belt and re-route the new belt. Before you remove the belt/belts, check the engine compartment for a belt routing diagram and verify that it matches the vehicle. If no diagram is shown in the engine compartment you may need to have one printed off for you at your local parts store, or draw your own. If the belt is not re-routed in the correct fashion, various accessories may not be turning in the proper direction which will cause a whole bunch of problems. If the car is equipped with drive belts (V-Belts) you will need to loosen the adjusters or accessory mounting bolt that keeps it tight. This will often be the top mounting bolt on the alternator or power steering assembly. If the car is equipped with a serpentine belt (Multi-V Belt) you should find a spring-loaded idler pulley that must be unloaded to let the belt slip off. Idler pulley arms often have small "square" holes in them designed to fit with a 1/2" or 3/8" ratchet (without a socket). Install the new belts in the reverse order and tighten (if necessary).
Disclaimer
While we make every attempt to insure this information is complete and accurate, it is impossible to account for every scenario. Please consult with a local technician before attempting to perform any work you are not qualified to do. Automobiles can be hazardous to work on; be sure to take all necessary safety precautions. Failure to do so may result in property damage or personal injury.
This guide is intended to provide you with a basic understanding of how to replace the drive belts on a common, modern vehicle; not to provide in-depth knowledge of engine systems. It will assume that you are familiar with the basic components of an engine such as the water pump, alternator, engine block, power steering pump, crankshaft, pullies, idlers, etc. It may be necessary to lift the front of the vehicle and in order to gain access to the belts. Use extreme caution to ensure your car or truck is properly supported at all times. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Drive Belts vs. Serpentine Belts
There are two types of belts: Drive Belts (sometimes called V-Belts) and Serpentine Belts (sometimes called Multi-V Belts). A single serpentine belt will typically drive all the various accessories on the engine, while a drive belt will usually only drive one or two. Most vehicles that use drive belts have more than one belt. Occasionally, vehicles equipped with serpentine belts will have a seperate belt which runs the air conditioning compressor alone. Regardless of what type of belt your vehicle uses, be sure to check them often and replace them if they are worn. Belts need to be replaced when the inside of the belt is badly cracked, glazed, frayed, or when the rubber begins to harden.
Replacing Belts
Regardless of whether you are replacing a drive belt or a serpentine belt, the idea is the same; gain access to the belt, loosen the tension off the belt, remove the belt, and reinstall in the reverse order. This sometimes involves the removal of radiator fans, shrouds, and other belts (which may be in the way). Start by disconnecting the battery to prevent nay electrical shocks. Next, remove any components which will prevent the belt from being removed. Have a good look to be sure you have the necessary space to remove the old belt and re-route the new belt. Before you remove the belt/belts, check the engine compartment for a belt routing diagram and verify that it matches the vehicle. If no diagram is shown in the engine compartment you may need to have one printed off for you at your local parts store, or draw your own. If the belt is not re-routed in the correct fashion, various accessories may not be turning in the proper direction which will cause a whole bunch of problems. If the car is equipped with drive belts (V-Belts) you will need to loosen the adjusters or accessory mounting bolt that keeps it tight. This will often be the top mounting bolt on the alternator or power steering assembly. If the car is equipped with a serpentine belt (Multi-V Belt) you should find a spring-loaded idler pulley that must be unloaded to let the belt slip off. Idler pulley arms often have small "square" holes in them designed to fit with a 1/2" or 3/8" ratchet (without a socket). Install the new belts in the reverse order and tighten (if necessary).
Disclaimer
While we make every attempt to insure this information is complete and accurate, it is impossible to account for every scenario. Please consult with a local technician before attempting to perform any work you are not qualified to do. Automobiles can be hazardous to work on; be sure to take all necessary safety precautions. Failure to do so may result in property damage or personal injury.
nipsirc
11-08-2004, 07:53 PM
nipsirc
11-08-2004, 07:55 PM
Most newer cars and trucks use a single, serpentine belt (see "How it Works," below) to drive a lot of accessories. These belts typically are tensioned by an idler pulley with an automatic tensioner. Just because there's an automatic tensioner doesn't mean it's working right. Any of the root causes discussed below can result in a belt getting chewed up fast, or popping off the pulleys.
There's a tension indicator on the idler and it should be reasonably close to midpoint. It should not be resting on the stop tab at the "loose" end. If it is at the stop–or very close–the belt has stretched and should be replaced before it pops off. You just put in a new belt, you say? Maybe you routed the belt incorrectly. Yes, it is possible to get the belt wrapped around all the pulleys in what seems to be the right way but have it wrong. Check the belt-routing diagram, which on many cars is on an underhood label.
Are you sure you have the right belt? Just because the tension indicator is in the right place doesn't mean you have the correct belt. It's hard to eyeball the difference between 7-rib and 8-rib belts, and if the pulleys have more or fewer grooves, the belt won't sit right. Even if the number of grooves matches, it's possible to install the belt too far inboard. While you're looking at the tensioner, also check for cracks in the housing which would allow it to flex enough for trouble.
Nothing obviously wrong yet? If the belt is still on the pulleys, run the engine and eyeball the accessory drive. If the tensioner is vibrating a lot but the pulleys are running smoothly, the damper bushing is bad and you'll have to install a new tensioner.
Put a wrench on the spring tensioner. Usually there's a square hole for a ratchet or breaker bar drive, and occasionally you can use one of those. If the tensioner on your transverse-engine car is buried so deep down between the pulleys and the suspension tower that you can barely see it, check out the assortment of special long, thin wrenches designed for those installations at your local auto parts store. The leading makers of these specialty tools will have theirs on display (Lisle Tools, K-D/Dannaher and Schley/SP). With the wrench on the tensioner, apply some light torque in the disconnect direction, and if the wrench moves very easily a short distance and then gets stiff, the tensioner housing spring either is out of position or broken. This condition often causes the tensioner and its idler pulley to vibrate.
Not today? Keep applying effort with the wrench, and you should feel uniform spring tension all the way to the belt-off position. If you feel binding or lost motion at any point, replace the tensioner. Never "let go" of a tensioner. Aside from the possible physical danger, the sudden release can cause internal parts of the tensioner to snap (including the spring). Release it very gradually. If you do need a new tensioner, don't think you have to get it from a dealer. Reputable aftermarket tensioners are available from automotive parts stores.
Correct routing of serpentine belts is not easy, especially in a crowded engine compartment. Incorrect routings may almost fit, so check the routing diagram or the owner's manual.
There's a tension indicator on the idler and it should be reasonably close to midpoint. It should not be resting on the stop tab at the "loose" end. If it is at the stop–or very close–the belt has stretched and should be replaced before it pops off. You just put in a new belt, you say? Maybe you routed the belt incorrectly. Yes, it is possible to get the belt wrapped around all the pulleys in what seems to be the right way but have it wrong. Check the belt-routing diagram, which on many cars is on an underhood label.
Are you sure you have the right belt? Just because the tension indicator is in the right place doesn't mean you have the correct belt. It's hard to eyeball the difference between 7-rib and 8-rib belts, and if the pulleys have more or fewer grooves, the belt won't sit right. Even if the number of grooves matches, it's possible to install the belt too far inboard. While you're looking at the tensioner, also check for cracks in the housing which would allow it to flex enough for trouble.
Nothing obviously wrong yet? If the belt is still on the pulleys, run the engine and eyeball the accessory drive. If the tensioner is vibrating a lot but the pulleys are running smoothly, the damper bushing is bad and you'll have to install a new tensioner.
Put a wrench on the spring tensioner. Usually there's a square hole for a ratchet or breaker bar drive, and occasionally you can use one of those. If the tensioner on your transverse-engine car is buried so deep down between the pulleys and the suspension tower that you can barely see it, check out the assortment of special long, thin wrenches designed for those installations at your local auto parts store. The leading makers of these specialty tools will have theirs on display (Lisle Tools, K-D/Dannaher and Schley/SP). With the wrench on the tensioner, apply some light torque in the disconnect direction, and if the wrench moves very easily a short distance and then gets stiff, the tensioner housing spring either is out of position or broken. This condition often causes the tensioner and its idler pulley to vibrate.
Not today? Keep applying effort with the wrench, and you should feel uniform spring tension all the way to the belt-off position. If you feel binding or lost motion at any point, replace the tensioner. Never "let go" of a tensioner. Aside from the possible physical danger, the sudden release can cause internal parts of the tensioner to snap (including the spring). Release it very gradually. If you do need a new tensioner, don't think you have to get it from a dealer. Reputable aftermarket tensioners are available from automotive parts stores.
Correct routing of serpentine belts is not easy, especially in a crowded engine compartment. Incorrect routings may almost fit, so check the routing diagram or the owner's manual.
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