capacitor

i was wondering if some one could tell me if i may plug 2 pioneer 400 watts amps and 2 alpine 600 watts 10in subs to a single 1 farad capacitor is it gonna work or at least do somethig for me?
thanks

Everything minus the capacitor should be fine.

You really should be fine with stock wiring - no need for anything additional. If you really think your electrical system can't hack it, an Optima Yellowtop battery would be more than enough. Just stay away from the capacitors.

You really should be fine with stock wiring - no need for anything additional. If you really think your electrical system can't hack it, an Optima Yellowtop battery would be more than enough. Just stay away from the capacitors.


why do you say i should stay away from capacitors ar they not good at all or something, or you just say it 'cause in this case is no use?
any way
the thing is a friend of mine bought one and he's nos gonna use it so he wants to sell it to me, its a krac'k audio 1.5 farad capacitor and he wants 110 dlls for it, its brand new, is the price ok?
and another thing is that i live in mexico and the dry cell batteries are not very popular in here yet and if you can find them the are really expensiveso i have a normal battery thats why i think i have to use the capacitor. lucky me i live about 3 hours from tucson az. so i can go and buy stuff there.
So could you tell me where can i buy one of those batteries and how much am i gonna pay for it please?? autozone?? pepboys? or something like that?

thanks and be patient please, im new at this car audio things :)

how much power are all those amps putting out? rms, not peak

you should be fine, upgrade the magic 3 and you should be good to go

why do you say i should stay away from capacitors ar they not good at all or something, or you just say it 'cause in this case is no use?
any way
the thing is a friend of mine bought one and he's nos gonna use it so he wants to sell it to me, its a krac'k audio 1.5 farad capacitor and he wants 110 dlls for it, its brand new, is the price ok?
and another thing is that i live in mexico and the dry cell batteries are not very popular in here yet and if you can find them the are really expensiveso i have a normal battery thats why i think i have to use the capacitor. lucky me i live about 3 hours from tucson az. so i can go and buy stuff there.
So could you tell me where can i buy one of those batteries and how much am i gonna pay for it please?? autozone?? pepboys? or something like that?

thanks and be patient please, im new at this car audio things :)

In general, capacitors won't help much at all, they are pretty much a waste of money. Go to www.optimabatteries.com and check, I think they have a dealer locator there. Or you can do it ebay, they are about 150-160 + ship. there.


how much power are all those amps putting out? rms, not peak

you should be fine, upgrade the magic 3 and you should be good to go


:1: on that as well, upgrading the wiring in your car would probably be more economical if you can. But really, you shouldn't have too much of a problem, I'm getting 1000W rms (love my nine.1 :lol2:) and I don't have any problems, and I'm running stock everything.

ok then which optima yellow top do you recommend?

what's the difference between a red top and a yellow top and which one is better?

Yellow is better b/c of the deep cycle. Do you already have the amps & subs in your car? If you do, does you headlights or anything dim?

redtop has more capacity, lower internal resistance (less voltage drop on large draws), higher discharge rate, and is cheaper

The only thing that makes the yellowtop better is it's a deep cycle, which means it won't be damaged if you happen to run it dead. If you don't plan on running your battery dead, I think the redtop would be a better choice in every way.

yes i have 4 speakers, 2 amps and 2 subs and the lights dont dim yet but sometimes it gets hard to start the car thats why i think i need it

very true SR20. the only time i really would reccomend a yellow top is: in SPL vehicles under a class that doesnt allow you to start your car and if you think you may play you stereo for long periods of time at high volume with out the engine running. The red top has into the 1000's CCA and the yellow like 750 or something. i have actually seen a dep cycle that had like 1250 CCA and could handle like 400 continuous but i dont recall the name and it cost like $280.

I have a yellowtop and people were saying that it's bad for winter weather, is this true? Are optima's good batteries in general or only for cars with systems? Are they used in cars without systems?

Optima's are good all around batteries, they are sealed so no spillage iwll occur, they are barely phased by vibration (which there is alot of in SPL and off road vehicles) and provide more than enough CCA and continuous amperes to support even the biggest of starters or the brightest of auxilary lights or the most powerful of amplifiers... persoanally i have only had experence with the Red top in my dads trailblazer. and a friend of mine has a yellow top, only because the retarded local audio shop refused to install a JL 1000w amp into his truck. they wanted to put a Cap in there but i talked my friend out of it so after they refused i talked to the manager and he allowed with a yellow top replacement battery... they said something about the stock battery couldnt handle it even with the stock 90amp altinator. that place is nothing but BS...constantly claiming W7 end all pure SPL woofer...i even told them that JL designed the W7 for SQ...it just happens to get loud...