are D's stronger then B's
Civic_D16Y5
11-07-2004, 08:54 AM
for turboing, which can handle more boost while they are stock, the d series engines or the b's?
NerveAgent
11-07-2004, 12:34 PM
isn't the b18c best for turboing?!
i think that engine has the most potential. for turboing. im not sure.
but are you talking about stock?!
i think that engine has the most potential. for turboing. im not sure.
but are you talking about stock?!
Beastiek2
11-07-2004, 12:43 PM
What would you rather turbo a SOHC or a DOHC? Easy answer.
Ace$nyper
11-07-2004, 12:44 PM
B motors are stronger granted niether are that boost friendly.
b18ls
11-07-2004, 05:02 PM
B18a/b is very boost friendly on stock internals. If you can choose, I'd go with the B-series.
Civic_D16Y5
11-07-2004, 08:35 PM
well yes b's are better to turbo for power, but i mean like which can take more boost on stock internals, like will a b blow up on 9, while a d will hold strong
lkailburn
11-07-2004, 08:54 PM
don't think of it in terms of pounds, because different turbos will push different power at the same pound.
b's have thicker rods and stronger pistons than a d. general census says that on a good tune, a d will hold 200whp daily. but ther are counts of ppl hitting 250's and even a little higher. how long they lasted at that im not sure but to play it safe DON"T push over 200whp on your stock d internals.
i think for a b-series with stock internals it will comfortably hold 250whp.
if you already have a d, just boost it. boost alone will allow you to RAPE any b-swap with i/h/e and will cost you less than half as much.
b's have thicker rods and stronger pistons than a d. general census says that on a good tune, a d will hold 200whp daily. but ther are counts of ppl hitting 250's and even a little higher. how long they lasted at that im not sure but to play it safe DON"T push over 200whp on your stock d internals.
i think for a b-series with stock internals it will comfortably hold 250whp.
if you already have a d, just boost it. boost alone will allow you to RAPE any b-swap with i/h/e and will cost you less than half as much.
Ace$nyper
11-07-2004, 09:07 PM
don't think of it in terms of pounds, because different turbos will push different power at the same pound.
b's have thicker rods and stronger pistons than a d. general census says that on a good tune, a d will hold 200whp daily. but ther are counts of ppl hitting 250's and even a little higher. how long they lasted at that im not sure but to play it safe DON"T push over 200whp on your stock d internals.
i think for a b-series with stock internals it will comfortably hold 250whp.
if you already have a d, just boost it. boost alone will allow you to RAPE any b-swap with i/h/e and will cost you less than half as much.
not always true I've first hand watch boosted Ds lose to STOCK 99-00SI at the track and seen it on the street.
Kid was probbly a crappy driver but he had dyno sheets showing 150WHP thats only 10 more HP then a stock b16 will put to the ground i'm sure he had bunch more foot lbs but the B has alot better gearing to help it also.
b's have thicker rods and stronger pistons than a d. general census says that on a good tune, a d will hold 200whp daily. but ther are counts of ppl hitting 250's and even a little higher. how long they lasted at that im not sure but to play it safe DON"T push over 200whp on your stock d internals.
i think for a b-series with stock internals it will comfortably hold 250whp.
if you already have a d, just boost it. boost alone will allow you to RAPE any b-swap with i/h/e and will cost you less than half as much.
not always true I've first hand watch boosted Ds lose to STOCK 99-00SI at the track and seen it on the street.
Kid was probbly a crappy driver but he had dyno sheets showing 150WHP thats only 10 more HP then a stock b16 will put to the ground i'm sure he had bunch more foot lbs but the B has alot better gearing to help it also.
honda_luvr_2000
11-07-2004, 11:16 PM
yes, gearing has a LOT to do w/ how quick u r
lkailburn
11-08-2004, 01:25 AM
what turbo setup was he running?
i tottally agree with the fact that the tranny is important. kid was prolly not too good of a driver aswell. a boosted d shouldn't have too too much trouble beating an si and for only half the cost. damn i love saving money
if i could, i would swap, but being a college student, money is ALWAYS an issue, so im doing what i can....this actually:
http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/my-bewst.html
when its all said and done..should prove to be quite a bit of fun
i tottally agree with the fact that the tranny is important. kid was prolly not too good of a driver aswell. a boosted d shouldn't have too too much trouble beating an si and for only half the cost. damn i love saving money
if i could, i would swap, but being a college student, money is ALWAYS an issue, so im doing what i can....this actually:
http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/my-bewst.html
when its all said and done..should prove to be quite a bit of fun
Ace$nyper
11-08-2004, 09:24 AM
what turbo setup was he running?
i tottally agree with the fact that the tranny is important. kid was prolly not too good of a driver aswell. a boosted d shouldn't have too too much trouble beating an si and for only half the cost. damn i love saving money
if i could, i would swap, but being a college student, money is ALWAYS an issue, so im doing what i can....this actually:
http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/my-bewst.html
when its all said and done..should prove to be quite a bit of fun
It was a greddy prefab so not thee best bang for the buck either could have done a swap or prefab and forging.
i tottally agree with the fact that the tranny is important. kid was prolly not too good of a driver aswell. a boosted d shouldn't have too too much trouble beating an si and for only half the cost. damn i love saving money
if i could, i would swap, but being a college student, money is ALWAYS an issue, so im doing what i can....this actually:
http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/my-bewst.html
when its all said and done..should prove to be quite a bit of fun
It was a greddy prefab so not thee best bang for the buck either could have done a swap or prefab and forging.
lkailburn
11-08-2004, 03:35 PM
tru tru. when i say it costs less than half as much as a bswap im talking about putting together your own setup
Ace$nyper
11-09-2004, 04:41 PM
tru tru. when i say it costs less than half as much as a bswap im talking about putting together your own setup
yup can make nice kit pretty cheap the one i set up for my D15 cost me around 70 total lol. Never got done cause i didn't want blow my motor with its ass DPI system I wanted my B16 too :naughty:
yup can make nice kit pretty cheap the one i set up for my D15 cost me around 70 total lol. Never got done cause i didn't want blow my motor with its ass DPI system I wanted my B16 too :naughty:
DirtyD777
11-09-2004, 05:20 PM
hey ace still got that turbo setup by anychance? I'de be interested in buying it off you if so. :)
Ace$nyper
11-09-2004, 05:34 PM
hey ace still got that turbo setup by anychance? I'de be interested in buying it off you if so. :)
all i got left is my boost gauge other stuff got sold as you can assume i made some nice profit :naughty:
but your more then welcome to make an offer on it. Its an autometer Ultralight *used but good shape* just wing me a PM
all i got left is my boost gauge other stuff got sold as you can assume i made some nice profit :naughty:
but your more then welcome to make an offer on it. Its an autometer Ultralight *used but good shape* just wing me a PM
Miataracer
11-09-2004, 08:16 PM
i agree there is much more to how much boost an engine will hold before it blows. it is NOT all based off of psi. it has to do with the compressor efficiency and intercooling and fuel management and knock and... and... and
one of the biggest killers is going to be knock. how much air are you throwing in there? how hot is it? is there enough fuel to mix with that air? where is the timing set?
**example**
two b18b's totally identical as far as engine goes
#1 b18b is set up with a little turbo at 10 psi running out of the top of its efficiency range. it has too small of an intercooler. the motor has stock timing and crappy fuel management that is causing the engine to run lean. what you will end up with here is a hot air intake charge that is mixed with not enough fuel and the temps are just cylinder generally too high. it will have predetonation (knock) and will eventually blow the hell up! be it hole in the piston or broken rod or broken ring lands or spun rod bearing, etc. it will not last very long
#2 b18b is set up with a larger turbo at 10 psi running right in its efficiency range, it has an appropriate sized intercooler. the engine has hondata, or AEM, or Uberdata or whatever. so it is tuned correctly with good timing and the right amount of fuel. this engine will have a cooler intake air temp, and the proper fuel to mix with it. this will keep cyl. temps down and majorly cut back on predetonation. this engine will last a lot longer than engine #1
one of the biggest killers is going to be knock. how much air are you throwing in there? how hot is it? is there enough fuel to mix with that air? where is the timing set?
**example**
two b18b's totally identical as far as engine goes
#1 b18b is set up with a little turbo at 10 psi running out of the top of its efficiency range. it has too small of an intercooler. the motor has stock timing and crappy fuel management that is causing the engine to run lean. what you will end up with here is a hot air intake charge that is mixed with not enough fuel and the temps are just cylinder generally too high. it will have predetonation (knock) and will eventually blow the hell up! be it hole in the piston or broken rod or broken ring lands or spun rod bearing, etc. it will not last very long
#2 b18b is set up with a larger turbo at 10 psi running right in its efficiency range, it has an appropriate sized intercooler. the engine has hondata, or AEM, or Uberdata or whatever. so it is tuned correctly with good timing and the right amount of fuel. this engine will have a cooler intake air temp, and the proper fuel to mix with it. this will keep cyl. temps down and majorly cut back on predetonation. this engine will last a lot longer than engine #1
lkailburn
11-09-2004, 10:28 PM
just to clarify something tho on what miataracer is saying.. a bigger turbo will not be safer than a smaller one on the same pound, but i think what he's trying to get at is that a well tuned setup with a properly sized turbo running in its efficiency range is the best way to go
Miataracer
11-10-2004, 12:43 AM
yeah i should have gone into a bit more detail though. basically what i was getting at is you can't just say a b18b can handle 12 psi and a b18c1 can only handle 9 etc. because there is a lot more detail in it than that.
eckoman_pdx
11-10-2004, 05:49 AM
yeah i should have gone into a bit more detail though. basically what i was getting at is you can't just say a b18b can handle 12 psi and a b18c1 can only handle 9 etc. because there is a lot more detail in it than that.
True, when many people say a B18B1 can handle 12psi on stock internals, they forget the last part..when tuned correctly with the proper set-up...I.E...proper sized intercooler, fuel managment, Hondata, uberdata, etc. Basically, as you said, it comes down to preventing knock and detonation.
Same with a GSR. A Higher C/R GSR typically handles less boost than a lower comp B18B1 due to the higher C/R, which creates higher cylinder pressure off bost to begin with (I know this isn't a great explantion, but it's 2:47am). There are ways to slightly lower the c/r though, like a thicker head gasket, etc. This can allow a good tuner to run a little more than someone else might be able to. Of course, this brings you closer to the limit. The closer to the limit you are, the less room for error you have before bad things occur.
Typically a b-series has better internals, so you have more room for error than with a d-series.
As was said though, PSI isn't all that a matters. More important is the goal HP. As was said, a small turbo way outside it's efficency range may not produce nearly the same airflow as a larger one inside the effiecency range. Also, you have to take into conisderation boost lag, and you'll want to size the turbo properly to get the best comprimse for your goals. On a low boost ball-bearing turbo, there's no reason you should have any noticable lag if you sized it right.
True, when many people say a B18B1 can handle 12psi on stock internals, they forget the last part..when tuned correctly with the proper set-up...I.E...proper sized intercooler, fuel managment, Hondata, uberdata, etc. Basically, as you said, it comes down to preventing knock and detonation.
Same with a GSR. A Higher C/R GSR typically handles less boost than a lower comp B18B1 due to the higher C/R, which creates higher cylinder pressure off bost to begin with (I know this isn't a great explantion, but it's 2:47am). There are ways to slightly lower the c/r though, like a thicker head gasket, etc. This can allow a good tuner to run a little more than someone else might be able to. Of course, this brings you closer to the limit. The closer to the limit you are, the less room for error you have before bad things occur.
Typically a b-series has better internals, so you have more room for error than with a d-series.
As was said though, PSI isn't all that a matters. More important is the goal HP. As was said, a small turbo way outside it's efficency range may not produce nearly the same airflow as a larger one inside the effiecency range. Also, you have to take into conisderation boost lag, and you'll want to size the turbo properly to get the best comprimse for your goals. On a low boost ball-bearing turbo, there's no reason you should have any noticable lag if you sized it right.
lkailburn
11-10-2004, 03:37 PM
mm ball bearing turbo :)
another thing to keep in mind.. if you blow your d it will only cost you a few hundred to buy another and be back running.. where as a pretty b-series will not be so fun to replace if you blow it
another thing to keep in mind.. if you blow your d it will only cost you a few hundred to buy another and be back running.. where as a pretty b-series will not be so fun to replace if you blow it
Beastiek2
11-10-2004, 04:22 PM
^^ excellent point D's are like toys so cheap.
eckoman_pdx
11-10-2004, 07:03 PM
Very good point. However, if you put boost on a D-series, just remember that rods on standards civic SOHC D-series motors, unlike most Honda rods, are a fairly weak part. D16 rods suffer from skinny construction and from weak bolts.
As was already mentioned in here, stock D rods can only handle up to 200whp when tuned right, or 7500rpm, whichever comes first most of the time. However, a quick and cheaper junkyard upgrade is the rods form a 1986-1987 D16A1 Integra motor. Use the correct Integra bearing with this bearing when doing this "mod." These rods are somewhat stronger and an take up to 250whp when the motor is tuned right (remember, a properly tuned motor is always a must when pushing a motor, espeically when pushing it towards the limit). 1988-1989 Intrga D16A1 rods are not the same as the 86-87 version of the motor, the 88-89 ones are just as weak as standard D16 rods.
Also, the JDM 1985-1987 Civic and CRX ZC motors rod is also a bolt it to D16's. Like the 1986-87 Integra D16A1 rods, this is another "junkyard upgrade," slightly stronger than standard D16 rods. Again, like the 86-87 Integra rods, good to about 250whp if everything is tuned correct.
As was already mentioned in here, stock D rods can only handle up to 200whp when tuned right, or 7500rpm, whichever comes first most of the time. However, a quick and cheaper junkyard upgrade is the rods form a 1986-1987 D16A1 Integra motor. Use the correct Integra bearing with this bearing when doing this "mod." These rods are somewhat stronger and an take up to 250whp when the motor is tuned right (remember, a properly tuned motor is always a must when pushing a motor, espeically when pushing it towards the limit). 1988-1989 Intrga D16A1 rods are not the same as the 86-87 version of the motor, the 88-89 ones are just as weak as standard D16 rods.
Also, the JDM 1985-1987 Civic and CRX ZC motors rod is also a bolt it to D16's. Like the 1986-87 Integra D16A1 rods, this is another "junkyard upgrade," slightly stronger than standard D16 rods. Again, like the 86-87 Integra rods, good to about 250whp if everything is tuned correct.
honda_luvr_2000
11-11-2004, 01:00 AM
...rods on standards civic SOHC D-series motors, unlike most Honda rods, are a fairly weak part. D16 rods suffer from skinny construction and from weak bolts.
...stock D rods can only handle up to 200whp when tuned right, or 7500rpm, whichever comes first most of the time. However, a quick and cheaper junkyard upgrade is the rods form a 1986-1987 D16A1 Integra motor. Use the correct Integra bearing with this bearing when doing this "mod." These rods are somewhat stronger and an take up to 250whp when the motor is tuned right (remember, a properly tuned motor is always a must when pushing a motor, espeically when pushing it towards the limit). 1988-1989 Intrga D16A1 rods are not the same as the 86-87 version of the motor, the 88-89 ones are just as weak as standard D16 rods.
Also, the JDM 1985-1987 Civic and CRX ZC motors rod is also a bolt it to D16's. Like the 1986-87 Integra D16A1 rods, this is another "junkyard upgrade," slightly stronger than standard D16 rods. Again, like the 86-87 Integra rods, good to about 250whp if everything is tuned correct.
eckoman, u must have read honda/acura engine performance by mike kojima. damn good book. damn near word for word. just add quotes. :lol:
...stock D rods can only handle up to 200whp when tuned right, or 7500rpm, whichever comes first most of the time. However, a quick and cheaper junkyard upgrade is the rods form a 1986-1987 D16A1 Integra motor. Use the correct Integra bearing with this bearing when doing this "mod." These rods are somewhat stronger and an take up to 250whp when the motor is tuned right (remember, a properly tuned motor is always a must when pushing a motor, espeically when pushing it towards the limit). 1988-1989 Intrga D16A1 rods are not the same as the 86-87 version of the motor, the 88-89 ones are just as weak as standard D16 rods.
Also, the JDM 1985-1987 Civic and CRX ZC motors rod is also a bolt it to D16's. Like the 1986-87 Integra D16A1 rods, this is another "junkyard upgrade," slightly stronger than standard D16 rods. Again, like the 86-87 Integra rods, good to about 250whp if everything is tuned correct.
eckoman, u must have read honda/acura engine performance by mike kojima. damn good book. damn near word for word. just add quotes. :lol:
eckoman_pdx
11-11-2004, 04:09 AM
eckoman, u must have read honda/acura engine performance by mike kojima. damn good book. damn near word for word. just add quotes. :lol:
Stop picking on me becuase I have actually read up on info, researched it, and then given out the truthful and correct information I've learned. This is the second thread you have attempred to flame me in. In both cases the information I gave new info revevant to the thread and was correct information at that. I think I may have that book, sounds familer, along with about 10 or so others, not to mention hundreds of magiznes. I don't remeber what info I learned out of what book or magazine anymore. I remember terms like "junkyard upgrade," the information I read but not the source I got it from.I read a lot of stuff o long ago that I don't remeber where I read what. I am 25 years old and my civic was the first car I ever got way way back in the day (A 92 wasn't so old back then, hahahaha). I have been researching and reading on Civics for years. There's only so many times you can read information before you memorize it.
A very good book on motors that gets pretty techincal is either Honda Performance Builders Handbook volume 1 or How to Build Honda Horsepower. I'd have to pull them off the look at them so see which one I am thinking of. They all tend to run toghter after awhile. Anyways, regardless of where I learned the information origaninally, it's good info nonetheless that most people don't realize. Laughing and poking fun like that only serves to undermine perfactly good info. You could be right on the book I learned it from, then again maybe not. I'd have to pull them off the shelf and read em again to see. It doesn't matter where you learned it though. It matters if It's correct information or not. The information is good information regardless of where I learned it from originally.
Anyways, it's nice to see other people read books versus trusting everything they read online. Another very good book to check out and read is "How to make your car handle." I couldn't tell you who wrote it without going to look. I recommend reading that one. It should be required.
Watch who you flame. If you insist on going and pissing off vets, you'll find no one willing to give you advice when you need it.
But oh, thats right, it's better to be an asshole and flame than it is to actually give out correct helpful information to people who otherwise wouldn't know it:gay: :loser:.
Stop picking on me becuase I have actually read up on info, researched it, and then given out the truthful and correct information I've learned. This is the second thread you have attempred to flame me in. In both cases the information I gave new info revevant to the thread and was correct information at that. I think I may have that book, sounds familer, along with about 10 or so others, not to mention hundreds of magiznes. I don't remeber what info I learned out of what book or magazine anymore. I remember terms like "junkyard upgrade," the information I read but not the source I got it from.I read a lot of stuff o long ago that I don't remeber where I read what. I am 25 years old and my civic was the first car I ever got way way back in the day (A 92 wasn't so old back then, hahahaha). I have been researching and reading on Civics for years. There's only so many times you can read information before you memorize it.
A very good book on motors that gets pretty techincal is either Honda Performance Builders Handbook volume 1 or How to Build Honda Horsepower. I'd have to pull them off the look at them so see which one I am thinking of. They all tend to run toghter after awhile. Anyways, regardless of where I learned the information origaninally, it's good info nonetheless that most people don't realize. Laughing and poking fun like that only serves to undermine perfactly good info. You could be right on the book I learned it from, then again maybe not. I'd have to pull them off the shelf and read em again to see. It doesn't matter where you learned it though. It matters if It's correct information or not. The information is good information regardless of where I learned it from originally.
Anyways, it's nice to see other people read books versus trusting everything they read online. Another very good book to check out and read is "How to make your car handle." I couldn't tell you who wrote it without going to look. I recommend reading that one. It should be required.
Watch who you flame. If you insist on going and pissing off vets, you'll find no one willing to give you advice when you need it.
But oh, thats right, it's better to be an asshole and flame than it is to actually give out correct helpful information to people who otherwise wouldn't know it:gay: :loser:.
lkailburn
11-11-2004, 02:43 PM
i think he's just saying that you've learned so much you can almost spit it back out word for word. i don't think thats a bad think.. just goes to show ppl you know your shiz
honda_luvr_2000
11-11-2004, 04:17 PM
yeah shit dude i was just kidding w/ u and complimenting on u knowing u'r shit unlike sum other people on this page. damn, easy man. learn how to take a compliment. notice the buddy icon???? IT'S LAUGHING :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
i just read that particual book about 3 months ago and was like damn! sumone else knows sum stuff too. i had no intent of pissing u off, or saying u didn't know anything. it's obvious to me that u do, and i was tryin to point out that u did. that was all.
i just read that particual book about 3 months ago and was like damn! sumone else knows sum stuff too. i had no intent of pissing u off, or saying u didn't know anything. it's obvious to me that u do, and i was tryin to point out that u did. that was all.
eckoman_pdx
11-11-2004, 04:26 PM
yeah shit dude i was just kidding w/ u and complimenting on u knowing u'r shit unlike sum other people on this page. damn, easy man. learn how to take a compliment. notice the buddy icon???? IT'S LAUGHING :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
just read that particual book about 3 months ago and was like damn! sumone else knows sum stuff too. i had no intent of pissing u off, or saying u didn't know anything. it's obvious to me that u do, and i was tryin to point out that u did. that was all.
It's all good, no hard feelings. Thanks for the compliment. The computer I was using blocks out smilies, so I couldn't see that part...I can use em and post em from that computer but I can't see em. My girls computer (which I was using last night) is funky like that. Heck, that computer blocks out aviatars. When I've posting from home I can see stuff. Thanks for the compliment. :) :)
just read that particual book about 3 months ago and was like damn! sumone else knows sum stuff too. i had no intent of pissing u off, or saying u didn't know anything. it's obvious to me that u do, and i was tryin to point out that u did. that was all.
It's all good, no hard feelings. Thanks for the compliment. The computer I was using blocks out smilies, so I couldn't see that part...I can use em and post em from that computer but I can't see em. My girls computer (which I was using last night) is funky like that. Heck, that computer blocks out aviatars. When I've posting from home I can see stuff. Thanks for the compliment. :) :)
honda_luvr_2000
11-11-2004, 04:30 PM
lol no prob man, i know stuff duzn't come across the same on the pc as it duz in convo so i understand. if u catch my other responce in the crvtec it's a little more in depth.
eckoman_pdx
11-11-2004, 04:45 PM
lol no prob man, i know stuff duzn't come across the same on the pc as it duz in convo so i understand. if u catch my other responce in the crvtec it's a little more in depth.
I read it and responded. ;) Just try and be more clear on what you mean when you type, since things don't always come across on the computer the same as in regular converstion. Withouth vocal tone and body langauge, it's much easier for words on a computer to come across differently than what you ment.
Lets stop high-jacking this poor guys thread now and let it return to it's purpose, lol. We can contiune the rest of our conversation in pm-land.:smile:
I read it and responded. ;) Just try and be more clear on what you mean when you type, since things don't always come across on the computer the same as in regular converstion. Withouth vocal tone and body langauge, it's much easier for words on a computer to come across differently than what you ment.
Lets stop high-jacking this poor guys thread now and let it return to it's purpose, lol. We can contiune the rest of our conversation in pm-land.:smile:
honda_luvr_2000
11-11-2004, 09:35 PM
another thing to go w/ the putting the 86-87 D16a1 rods and pistons into another D16... make to sure to have the crank rebalanced w/ them so u don't rattle it to death. other than that, eckoman covered it all. for using honda oem parts anyway. in the end, i think it can be agreed that the b-series has the edge, but it can be a close race w/ the stock b16 and an oem modified d16.
exman98
11-11-2004, 10:14 PM
i have heard that they make "kits" to strengthen internals for D's
i think they had ; Cams, lifters, rods, etc.....
is this true or do you have to buy every thing from they junk yard or individualy.
i think they had ; Cams, lifters, rods, etc.....
is this true or do you have to buy every thing from they junk yard or individualy.
exman98
11-11-2004, 10:19 PM
** i have seen them for other cars just not any D's or any civics for that matter**
Miataracer
11-11-2004, 10:37 PM
kits of factory parts? i have never heard of that... but there are aftermarket kits out there
exman98
11-11-2004, 11:19 PM
right After market kits
are there any you recommend
are there any you recommend
Miataracer
11-11-2004, 11:31 PM
I don't have any experience with them honestly. I have kind of considered getting a Crower kit but never got too in depth with my research.
honda_luvr_2000
11-12-2004, 01:31 AM
yeah they make after market parts for any engine. some r a LOOOOOT harder to find, and sum specially made. crower has a good selection for D-series: cams, springs, valves, rods. u can find pistons, stroker kits, etc. just gets expensive. the biggest all-motor D-series had (i think) 211 whp, and it was also near 2.1L (bored, stroked). the D has potential, but it takes a lot to get it all out of it.
exman98
11-12-2004, 08:31 AM
where should i look for them then ????????
lkailburn
11-12-2004, 09:55 AM
agreed.. taking a D NA is...a joke.. sadly haha no matter how much i love my little d..NA its way to expensive for way to small of an outcome
boost is the only way to go :) :) *i can't wait for spring*
boost is the only way to go :) :) *i can't wait for spring*
exman98
11-12-2004, 02:52 PM
what brand would be best
honda_luvr_2000
11-12-2004, 03:13 PM
lol i agree boost is a lot cheaper on a D than going NA. that's big bucks to meet specific requirements to have that out of an NA D
for camshafts, valve springs, retainers, valves, and rods. u can go right to www.crower.com
there is also a link for a few different companies that do pistons.
for stroker and/or big bore kits, try R&D Racing or JG Engine Dynamics
for camshafts, valve springs, retainers, valves, and rods. u can go right to www.crower.com
there is also a link for a few different companies that do pistons.
for stroker and/or big bore kits, try R&D Racing or JG Engine Dynamics
eckoman_pdx
11-12-2004, 08:54 PM
As was said, crower makes good parts. I do like Crowers 4340 Billet I-Beam connecting rods a lot. The main reason for pulling the OEM parts I mentioned is cost. It will be a lot cheaper than aftermarket parts like crower. Sure it won't be as strong if you used those rods, but it'll be stronger than stock.
If you are WILLING to pay the costs, buying good, strong qaulity aftermarket engine and valvetrain parts will provide you with a stronger engine. When I suggested the rods from a 86-87 teg, etc, I suggested that assuming you didn't want to pay the cost of qaulity aftermarket but wouldn't mind a little extra strength. If you can afford it, I'd go with good aftermarket parts that suite your needs.
For rods if you can afford it, get the 4340 billet I-beam connecting rods versus the econo billet. They are a stronger rod. They cost $167 per rod for steel billet and $59 for titanium billet rods. The econo billet rods starts @ around $398 for a set of 4. Tese arn't as stronger and are an H-beam design, compare them to eagle rods.
rods (http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/rods.shtml)
cams (http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/camshafts.shtml)
valvetrain (http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/valvetrain.shtml)
Ferrea also makes good valvetrain components.
888-733-2505
http://www.ferrea.com/spindex.php
Corwer doesn't make their own pistons, but they sell JE, SPR, and Arias pistons. They have no JE D-series pistons, but some SPR and some Arias D-series. You can also check out the indivual manufacturers sites to see what they make. Wiseco also makes good pistons.
Here is a link o the pistons Crower sells.
pistons sold @ crower (http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/pistons.shtml)
I prefer to actually look at the actual manufacturer sites, call them etc.
Arias Pistons
http://www.ariaspistons.com/
310-532-9737
JE Pistons (also SPR)
http://www.jepistons.com/
714-898-9763
Wiseco Pistons
http://www.wiseco.com/
440-951-6600
To strengthen the block, re-sleeving is a good idea. I know AEBS doesn't make D-series sleeves unless they changed things up, I am not sure about Darton. Golden Eagle does make sleeves for D-series (they also make a D-series block gaurd if you want to go that route, but re-sleeing is better), and Benson Performance Machining has access to D-series sleeves. IF you really want to strengthen the block, re-sleeving is the best way to reinforce and strengthen the sleeves.
AEBS
858-693-3200
http://www.aebsracing.com/main.pl
Darton
1-800-713-2786
http://www.dartonsleeves.com/main_fr.htm
Golden Eagle Manufacturing
909-592-4311
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeving.html
BENSON'S PERFORMANCE MACHINE
2909 S. Kilson Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92707
714-241-1284
Since I didn't provide the phone number above, here you go for Crower.
619-661-6477
This info should get you started on reputable manufacturers of engine parts.
If you are WILLING to pay the costs, buying good, strong qaulity aftermarket engine and valvetrain parts will provide you with a stronger engine. When I suggested the rods from a 86-87 teg, etc, I suggested that assuming you didn't want to pay the cost of qaulity aftermarket but wouldn't mind a little extra strength. If you can afford it, I'd go with good aftermarket parts that suite your needs.
For rods if you can afford it, get the 4340 billet I-beam connecting rods versus the econo billet. They are a stronger rod. They cost $167 per rod for steel billet and $59 for titanium billet rods. The econo billet rods starts @ around $398 for a set of 4. Tese arn't as stronger and are an H-beam design, compare them to eagle rods.
rods (http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/rods.shtml)
cams (http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/camshafts.shtml)
valvetrain (http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/valvetrain.shtml)
Ferrea also makes good valvetrain components.
888-733-2505
http://www.ferrea.com/spindex.php
Corwer doesn't make their own pistons, but they sell JE, SPR, and Arias pistons. They have no JE D-series pistons, but some SPR and some Arias D-series. You can also check out the indivual manufacturers sites to see what they make. Wiseco also makes good pistons.
Here is a link o the pistons Crower sells.
pistons sold @ crower (http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/pistons.shtml)
I prefer to actually look at the actual manufacturer sites, call them etc.
Arias Pistons
http://www.ariaspistons.com/
310-532-9737
JE Pistons (also SPR)
http://www.jepistons.com/
714-898-9763
Wiseco Pistons
http://www.wiseco.com/
440-951-6600
To strengthen the block, re-sleeving is a good idea. I know AEBS doesn't make D-series sleeves unless they changed things up, I am not sure about Darton. Golden Eagle does make sleeves for D-series (they also make a D-series block gaurd if you want to go that route, but re-sleeing is better), and Benson Performance Machining has access to D-series sleeves. IF you really want to strengthen the block, re-sleeving is the best way to reinforce and strengthen the sleeves.
AEBS
858-693-3200
http://www.aebsracing.com/main.pl
Darton
1-800-713-2786
http://www.dartonsleeves.com/main_fr.htm
Golden Eagle Manufacturing
909-592-4311
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeving.html
BENSON'S PERFORMANCE MACHINE
2909 S. Kilson Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92707
714-241-1284
Since I didn't provide the phone number above, here you go for Crower.
619-661-6477
This info should get you started on reputable manufacturers of engine parts.
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